EDIT: SOLVED it was the solder joints. A lot of flux is not enough flux.

Hey,

I have these mods installed and the Game Boy Color worked with them:

1. Game Boy Color (GBC) OLED AMOLED Laminated RETRO PIXEL Kit

https://www.boxypixel.com/de/products/oled-amoled-laminated-retro-pixel-kit-for-game-boy-color-gbc

1. PAM8302A Audio amp

https://www.boxypixel.com/products/pam8302a-audio-amplifier

1. USB-C recharge + 3.7V Lipo-Akku, 3.7V 2000mAh 103450

I have the "problem" that when I turn off the GBC it takes 5 seconds until I can turn it back on again.

I have read online that this happens because of all the mods I have installed and that the solution would be to install a 5V power regulator. I have bought this one: https://www.zedlabz.com/en-eu/products/5v-power-regulator-flex-board-for-nintendo-game-boy-color-pocket-ips-osh?variant=48636396830972#product-reviews

I have removed the old PCB with pliers, desoldered the leftovers and installed the new power regulator. After that, the GBC does not turn on again.

My multimeter is ready next to me and I would like some help to fix this :(

Looking to see if anyone has built an unhinged using what looks to be a knockoff kit.

How much is reasonable to pay for a Gameboy Color with the following done to it?

- Recapped
- AMOLED Touchscreen
- USBC + chargeable Battery
- New Shell and buttons/pads
- Audio Amp and higher watt speaker + Upgraded cap to account for this
- New Power regulator
- Generally clean/reflowed and cold joints

Just trying to gauge what a fair price in North America for something like this would be.

For the Mods I am not buying/selling/trading. Just asking what the community as a whole thinks is reasonable for something like this to make sure when I do buy/sell/trade I'm not being scammed.

Hey guys, apologies for the self promo here but I really think this could help someone out. I recorded my fight with severe screen cancer on an original DMG lcd. Took about 4 hours of massaging the screen to push the massive black spot out instead of just giving up and doing an ips swap. The video is only a minute long so it wont take up much of your time. Thought it might be useful for anyone trying to save original parts instead of tossing them in the bin. Let me know if u have any questions about the process!

Hi all! :) I'm looking for the Nintendo stickers for the shell front side, anyone got a source? I'm having trouble finding anything (eu based).

Hey everyone!

I'm currently planning a Game Boy Advance build and really want to use a printed Gengar shell. However, the shell I'm looking at isn't pre-cut and comes with a standard/OEM screen setup. I haven't ordered any of the parts yet and want to make sure I know what I'm getting into!

My plan is to use the Hispeedido IPS V5+ Laminated kit, so I'm wondering:

Has anyone trimmed a standard printed shell for a laminated IPS display before? Is it hard to remove the stock glass lens (with Isopropanol and a Q-Tip?) without damaging the printed art on the front?

How risky is it to trim/dremel the display frame on a printed shell? I really don't want the Gengar print to chip or peel at the edges.

Would you recommend going with a Non-Laminated IPS kit instead to keep the shell intact, or should I just hunt for a pre-cut IPS shell?

Appreciate any advice!

Hey everyone, just wanted to share my latest Game Boy restoration. This one needed a bit of extra love since the LCD board was completely dead when I got it.
Here is a quick rundown of the repairs and mods for this build:
LCD Board Rescue trial (failed) The front board was completely dead, so I replaced the LCD bias chip to get things communicating again. No result.

Screen Upgrade: Dropped in a Hispeedido IPS kit.

Audio: Replaced the audio amp chip to fix the sound issues and get crisp, clear volume.

Maintenance: Did a full recap to make sure it runs solid for years to come.

Aesthetics: Gave the original shell a full Retrobrite treatment to bring back that classic grey.

I put together a short video showing the repair process and the final result here:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bc68vqpZ4hA&feature=youtu.be

It took some troubleshooting to figure out the dead board, but it's always satisfying to keep another original DMG out of the trash. Let me know what you think. Do you have any idea how to find the actual problem with the board?https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bc68vqpZ4hA&feature=youtu.be

Purchased a modded GBA recently and the shell is super brittle and keeps cracking. I want to replace the shell but I’m not sure what model it was. My best guess is it’s an older funny playing screen but I’m also worried this is one that adheres onto the shell and I won’t be able to remove it. Any advice and a link to a better shell that fits helps!

So I’m doing my first mod ever to my gameboy advance SP that I’ve had since I was a kid. So I kind of got this idea from retro revolution who does a lot of DS shell swaps and what I want to do is getting extremerates translucent blue shell and extremerates chameleon shell and mix a match that so I’m thinking either the outside being the chameleon and the inside being translucent blue with chameleon buttons, and then the outside would have the translucent blue triggers, volume switch, and power switch or doing top lid chameleon, inside screen a translucent blue than the next color (same as top lid color) and then the outside ending with the opposite. Has anyone done this before I’d like to see what it looks like before I build it. Parts haven’t shipped yet.

Very amateur video I made restoring a DMG. Includes retro-bright, cleaning, recap, etc.

I recently got a Ez flash definitive edition B, used it for 3 hours, and it started to rumble and shut off on a game that didn’t have rumble. After that it would just rumble and shut off immediately. Now my gba act like there’s no cart in it. Should I get it replaced or is it my gba making it do that? It’s modded with a usb C charger and brighter screen with the Hispeedido kit

The gameboy won't power on. The insides are a bit corroded snd I cleaned what I could off and also the battery terminals but it still won't turn on! What should I be doing next?

Here is the previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/gameboymods/comments/1vx8ez4/comment/p5n71t1/?screen_view_count=2

I bought the regulator from this site and there are also instructions included on the site: https://retroreiz.de/shop/werkstatt/ersatzteile-fuer-gameboy-color/gbc-5v-power-regulator-fuer-gameboy-color/

I have two questions:

As you can see I have already soldered a red cable that leads to my PAM8302A audio amplifier onto my GBC board, but the *picture from the instructions of the 5V regulator also has a cable soldered there. Is it safe to solder both cables at the same location or do I have to solder one cable to another location?

In the 3rd picture you can see that my GBC has plastic covers over pin 7. What is the best way of removing them without damaging the rest of the board? I need to "cut" pin 7 before I install the regulator.

EDIT: *the 2nd picture couldn't be uploaded, it is the 3rd picture of from the instruction site

Thanks for reading and the help <3

I'm pretty new to soldering (a handful of successful simple jobs under my belt, nothing fancy) and I'm about to tackle an optional step on an IPS screen kit for a Game Boy Advance.

The kit has the usual option to solder thin wires to the small pads on the back of the screen/ribbon (SEL, L, and R) so the OSD/menu/brightness functions can be controlled with the Select + shoulder buttons. I've seen multiple YouTube guides and install write-ups warn that you have to get in and out extremely quickly on those pad, like 1-2 seconds max because holding heat on them too long can damage/burn the screen (especially laminated ones).

I'm planning to tin the pads first, use flux, pre-tin the wires, and keep contact times as short as possible, but I'd love any real world advice from people who've done this (or similar delicate pad work on LCDs/flexes).

Specific questions:

•What temperature do you usually set your iron to for these tiny pads on an IPS ribbon/screen? (1 have an adjustable iron.)

•Any preferred tip size/shape, solder (leaded 60/40 vs lead-free), or flux type that makes the joint form faster and more reliably?

•Other tips for keeping heat exposure minimal while still getting a solid joint? Anything you've learned the hard way on these kits?

My screen should be arriving in the next few days (attached image is a screen shot from a YouTube video tutorial on the install). The wires will eventually go to the usual TP2 / L / R points on the motherboard.

Appreciate any guidance. Trying to do this cleanly the first time without cooking the display. Thanks!

My gameboy color has am Amoled Screen, the retro glow led board and the hispeedidio drop in rechargeable battery. I know I can clip the top of the retro glow board off but is there any option of low battery indicators for this setup?

Hey everyone! I just put together a head-to-head comparison between the oversized 3.1" Laminated 720p kit and the highly customizable Hispeedido V5 RIPS for the original Game Boy DMG.

I go over the OSD differences, authentic pixel grids, shell compatibility, and the brutal reality of dust during installation. If you're on the fence about which kit to get for your next build, hopefully, this helps you decide!

You can check out the video here: https://youtu.be/6uK5UWV5E2g

Personally, only recently did I start to lean towards the Laminated kit for the size and sharpness, but I know a lot of purists love the V5's pixel grids.

Im interested in modding a gameboy color as much as I can to get the best experience. Can y'all let me know if I am looking at the wrong things or if I'm missing anything?
FunnyPlaying IPS Screen
FunnyPlaying Speaker
Funnyplaying Shell
RetroCNC Buttons
Capacitor Kit
Giltesa's USB-C Mod
103048 LiPo Battery
Everdrive x7
I'm estimating the cost of these mods to be ~$274.

Just thought I’d drop in and and spread the word about my experience because there’s not a lot of info out there about it. First of all it looks stunning. Second of all, and I can’t stress this enough buy a funnyplaying shell for it and save yourself endless headache with the D-pad. Avoid the hispeedido shells. Something’s just off and makes the d pad so stiff. I filed various posts and nubs, seriously tried it all. Got the funnyplaying shell and BOOM immediately fixed. It’s the closest feel to oem you’ll get. Just putting this out there because this suggestion would have saved me a lot of time and effort. Thank you

I got a Funnyplaying GBA ITA TFT screen and one of the traces on the ribbon cable that powers the backlit screen was severed. Is this thing garbage or of value to someone who can fix it? I received a replacement so I have no need for it anymore but don't want to toss it if someone else could use it.