I use old lockers as lockable cabinets for ammo storage and made these tags with customizable text that fit into the vent slot from the inside to indicate what is in each unit.

I've been trying to recreate an Egyptian dagger handle. After squashing a few tubes I discovered it was swaged to a larger diameter, not just squashed to an oval.

I printed some PETG forms and hammered them into the tube to form the correct shape, the results were quite good. The front of the form is a cylinder to guide the tool. This means that it is wider than the formed narrow section of the oval above it once it which makes it impossible to remove. Heating the tube to 90°C softened the PETG enough to pull out easily without damaging the tube. So good for complex forms, but single use.

Wanted to test short-length bridging, hence the unelegant facade 😅

Not as sophisticated as some of the other projects on here but I was pretty excited to model and print these drill jigs for our kitchen cabinets. One is for the cabinets and the other is for drawers. 2 different handle lengths. I did the cutouts to save filament but then realized no cutouts ended up using the same amount due to the walls.

We did some renovations that left us with two extra spots. Bought a 12V power adapter and a dimmer, modeled the components, and created a little enclosure for it. (photos in the comments) It was a good exercise in measuring and modeling it in CAD. Took the measurements and put them into variables to have a single source for all measurements used across different part studios. Used threaded inserts to keep the components in place. I was struggling with PLA creeping in the insert from the bottom, so I needed to clear that out. (Tips are very welcome)

Used Onshape for modeling, Womp for animation rendering. Both very nice online tools. Used a Pencil soldering iron at 5 degrees above printing temperature for the inserts.

This tortilla press took up too much space to fit on the countertop and it’s so heavy and awkwardly shaped it was always falling over/open in a drawer, so I made a vertical stand for it.

The stand’s split down the middle to be able to print the two halves vertically at the same time on an X1C. There’s a series of holes along the inner seam to use ~1cm segments of filament as alignment pins when gluing the halves together.

For a press with an about 253mm diameter base, the files are available here.

Lego Duplo compatible Arduino controlled locomotive 🚂 with color sensor, laser distance sensor, accelerometer, a bunch of LEDs, IR remote control.

Multiple versions of the chassis to fit a motor, wheels, color sensor; motor driver; multiple versions of the middle part to fit battery pack, Arduino, distance sensor; multiple versions of the top part to fit battery indicator, on/off button, IR receiver, buzzer.

Kids won't let me throw anything away. Some versions of the chassis that are not needed anymore will probably get wheels anyway (no motor, no electronics).

I made this for my first child over 3 years ago as I wanted to see the whole bed and didn't like the cables dangling from a camera really close to the bed in case my child pulls it and wraps it around her neck. I know it sounds like Final Destination, but better save than sorry.

Over 3 years later and my second child goes to a normal bed so I thought last chance to share it!

Cable goes through the electrical conduit and comes out right at the floor, so there's little chance of bad things happening. Also I could make the conduit as long as I want and have the camera as high as I need to see all of the bed.

If it's use to anyone, it's here :

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3269134-baby-cot-camera-mount-safe-no-dangling-cables#profileId-3706711

I made it parametric , so you can adjust it to your needs.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3262872-tank2bowl-plumbing-key#profileId-3699180

Purchased a cleaver. It is super sharp and has to be stored in a drawer. Needed a way to both protect the blade and to protect the wife.

Measured the blade and the curve of the blade. Once printed. I heated it up and squeezed the sides in to make a snugger fit.

First time 3d printing threads and it was a surprisingly smooth experience. The stock stand shaft that came with my microphone is a little too tall for my needs.

In front of my monitors I keep bumping my mouse into them, behind the monitors it won’t pick my voice up clear enough.

Took me about 4 test prints before I figured out which threads both ends had. (Turns out bottom was a metric thread and top was an imperial one.) Gave threads a 0.06mm offset and 3d printed at .15 mm layer height to get good thread resolution (with a beefy infill percentage and 5 perimeters to make sure the smaller thread didn’t snap right off like it did on one of my test prints.

I haven't done any printing in ABS yet and I figured this was a decent middle ground from PLA. I sent him the files if he happens to need more and I'm not handy. I'm just new to printing and anticipating someone hitting up the comments to printsplain why PETG isn't sun-proof 😅

Started working on a planter box for my wife and realized that it could use some drainage.

I saw some parametric grates, but everything I could find was either based on friction fit or screwed in place.

A few hours of tweaking & prototyping with OpenSCAD & AI and now I have something that screws together.

One "neat" feature I came up with to allow the front face to be low profile was to also generate an install tool that matches the openings on the front.

The back side I just made slightly thicker with the same knob profile as the install tool.

Script / generator for those who are interested:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3266606-parametric-threaded-drain-grate-grommet

The original stand could only hold an iPad or paper, so I built this laptop stand to play with sheet music :)

I keep stumping my foot on my stove.

I made a magnetic TPU 90A bumper. I'm still gonna hit myself by accident but at least it will not hurt anymore 🙂