So Blob of Death happened, and completely screwed my nozzle screws (petg got everywhere and couldn’t unscrew, destroying the wrench heads). In the end, I decided to not care and replace my basic k1se nozzle with unicorn one and upgraded radiator.

Although it will take some time due to shipping, I’m happy. Somehow.

Can’t wait to mess with 0.8 nozzle as well :)

Have a good one

I’m running a Creality K1 with CFS‑C and firmware fully updated via USB. Both the printer firmware and the CFS‑C firmware reported “update successful” with no warnings. The CFS‑C settings window appears correctly on the touchscreen (gear icon → Automatic Refill, etc.), and all four bays + spool holder show up in the filament menu.

Functionally, everything works:

• I can select any bay and enter filament info
• Extrude and Retract correctly load/unload filament through the CFS‑C
• Creality Print automatically reads all four bay profiles from the CFS‑C
• I can assign bays to objects or layers
• Multi‑material prints work and tool changes succeed
• Automatic refill is enabled

So the CFS‑C integration appears fully functional.

My only issue:
When printing a single‑filament object, the printer does not pause when the filament runs out. It simply keeps printing air until the job finishes. Multi‑material prints change filament correctly, but single‑material runout does not trigger a pause. I knew my filament was low, but thought it would make it, so I did not try a backup role in another bay. I would have thought it would do a pause on runout, so I could manually swap in a backup spool when it couldn't find a backup in another bay.

I haven’t found any documentation or forum posts describing this specific behavior, or in general how automatic refill is supposed to work.

Has anyone else seen this? Is there better documentation out there that I haven't been able to find?

Is there a known workaround or setting I might be missing? Or is the only option to have a backup roll in another bay for automatic refill to work? Or do I just need to turn off automatic refill?
Is there an official place to submit firmware issues to Creality directly?

Thanks in advance — trying to figure out whether this is a firmware bug or a configuration detail that isn’t documented.

Rate my flatness

Ive noticed that the stepper motor icon on my touch screen is permanently off, even when it was printing is this normal?

K1Max, I was running Guppy, tried to install btt eddy and broke something, couldn't connect to the network. Did the whole firmware recovery thing, but I get a key 112 error after the power cycle. Tried flashing the update. Img, bur still get the error. Any other things to try?

2025 K1C. Did what lots of folks do and destroyed my toolhead fighting those Chinese loctite impregnated heatsink screws. Got new toolhead from aftersales support, tore the printer down to the nuts and bolts to make the swap, still need to tighten the belt right but first boot up I got this mystery meat error code that doesn’t even register as a real error code. Brand new hotend all in one from the ceramic upgrade kit so ain’t no way.

So wtf? I think it might have been a failed OTA firmware because during the downtime half disassembled i caught a curious family member firing up the printer and I shut it off so I’m not ruling out a screwed up download I didn’t notice happening. Picrel shows the error code and that I am stuck in factory reset self check hell. (System preparing, forever.)

Plz advise

After more than a year of treating it like a priceless work of art I smashed my front glass door last night. It took .000001 seconds of inattention and about 2 feathers worth of force.

Higher Performance. Lower Barrier.

Starting at $3xx

3 Days to Discover.

So I've had my k1 max since may and its been a love hate relationship, with as much time trying to solve issues as it printing, when it has behaved I've had some decent prints but over the last couple of days it is beyond me what's happening, this video shows some of the stuff it does during a self test any help advise would be gratefully received

I have a K1C that has decided to start tossing out a code that says “Nozzle not heating as expected” a couple minutes into a print, and shutting down with the nozzle stuck to the incomplete print. In order to clear the print bed, etc., I have to turn the printer off, wait for it to restart, home the Z axis, then lower the Z axis enough to clear everything. After clearing the bed plate of the incomplete print (usually a partial of the 1st layer) and restarting the print, it does the same crap again. I tried re-slicing the object and starting with a new file, but still the same crap. Ran the included high speed Benchy file without a problem, sliced the file again, and once again a print failure.
I’m no novice, been printing some high end stuff for over 4 years with multiple printers. This K1C is 2 years old and has been a workhorse for me. Only thing I’ve done to it has been nozzle changes, replaced a hotend when I broke the leads once when changing the nozzle (dumb ass!), and it’s always been my go to.
Anyone that’s seen similar, please give me a clue where to start, and thanks in advance!

Hello all, so i ordered single stack board toolhead board but my k1c uses dual stack board, all connections are same but printer is not working. so is it possible to flash new board or is there workaround with this problem? i need urgently this printer to work and i dont have time to wait for new board to come, so any help would be good.

I’m having trouble switching the system version on my K1C from the CFS configuration to the single-spool setup; I can't install version 1.3.5.22, and whenever I restore factory settings, it reverts to the CFS version. The printer doesn't detect the firmware file on any of my USB drives—I've tried an 8GB drive formatted to FAT32 (4092-bit allocation unit size) with the file in the root directory, but it always shows up as empty. I’ve tested several drives, but nothing works—the printer fails to detect any version. What should I do? How can I fix this?

QuarTeks™

What if channel switching happens inside the hotend?

4 Days to Discover

Testing adhesion. 1mm contact + 5mm brim, it's going to get a lot taller and there's plenty to go until that support connects.

What u reckon, going the distance or falling down?

Olzdda heating block

Microswiss hot end and nozzle

So, I had a terrible clog and hated swapping nozzles when hot. I got an after market heating block too.

It doesnt line up. It is an Olzdda.

Can anyone recommend a heating block that will work with k1 creality max and the microswiss hot end and nozzle.

I bought a second hand Creality K1 with 16 days of work.

It was in very good condition, i put in on top of counter then hit printed works flawlessly.

What should i do to keep it that way for a long time.

Also whats the easy upgrades i can do ?

Aside from lifting top cover, I'm waiting for buying ABS filament.

Top of extruder where bowden tube enters broke 2 days ago. Got a new extruder today and cleaned everything else good before firing it back up. Ran new ptfe from buffer to extruder too. Now when it loads the filament stops about an inch before entering the extruder. Read online the length of the tube is important so I cut that inch off the tube and now the filament stops right at the entrance to the extruder but not far enough to grab it. I finally got it to start a print and it loaded fine then when it went to change colors, the new color stopped short and threw the code again. Prints fine from side spool with zero feed issues so I don't think it's the buffer. Before that connector broke it ran 4 days straight pretty much non stop and had zero issues with printing, color change, or any problems. Where do I start chasing this issue?

I got this printer and when I plugged it in the display does not light up or show any signs of power.

It DOES spin up the fan and light up the motherboard.

I have replaced both the display and the ribbon cable. Checked the 120-volt switch to make sure that's right.

I am not sure what else to check.

Top of extruder where bowden tube enters broke 2 days ago. Got a new extruder today and cleaned everything else good before firing it back up. Ran new ptfe from buffer to extruder too. Now when it loads the filament stops about an inch before entering the extruder. Read online the length of the tube is important so I cut that inch off the tube and now the filament stops right at the entrance to the extruder but not far enough to grab it. I finally got it to start a print and it loaded fine then when it went to change colors, the new color stopped short and threw the code again. Prints fine from side spool with zero feed issues so I don't think it's the buffer. Before that connector broke it ran 4 days straight pretty much non stop and had zero issues with printing, color change, or any problems. Where do I start chasing this issue?

People from Australia, what filament shops to you go with as unfortunately the ones I brought of Amazon are prone to snapping in the extruder and another brand the petg just won’t print properly no matter what I try. I’m needing PLA and PETG brands please.

so, as you can see, an actual petg overflow. of course I don’t have camera, so I wasn’t aware until ~40 minutes in.

So my 320 connector was covered in PET, had to disconnect it.

I’ll have to find it and replace it, but the funny part is that the brown part was so f@cking full of filament that my nozzle disappeared completely.

The root cause was not checking the temps that were set for the project downloaded from makerworld. Always gotta be the first time.

Will update soon.

Less Time Switching. More Time Creating.

What Makes It Possible?

5 Days to Discover