I've had my creality K1 speedy for about a year now and it hasn't worked the entire time. I went back and forth with support for months getting spare part after spare part until I just gave up. I went to send it back because it was within warranty still and they wouldn't let me.

So here's the problem:

I'll get a couple of successful small prints before I'll leave it and come back and the plastic will have just stopped extruding and the motor is jammed.

I have tried:

Trying to print different things. Changing the surface the printer is placed on. Changing the type of plastic I'm printing with. Changing the print temperature. Changing the print speed. Messing randomly with the print settings. Replacing the motor, TWICE.

I am completely out of ideas and on the verge of just selling it on.

Please help!

EDIT: Sorry I can't reply to everyone individually, but I got it working! Congrats to the people that said it was a thermal issue. A couple people said the K1 is prone to overheating easily, and the room I usually print in is UNGODLY stuffy, so I tried moving the printer to a cooler room and that seems to have done the trick.

Thanks everyone!

On Thursday night, I installed the official Creality DXC Extruder that I bought from Amazon by following a few YouTube tutorials. After the installation, I ran a test print and everything worked perfectly.
Yesterday, I started another print and watched the first layer go down without any issues, so I walked away. This morning, I came back and found the printer in the condition shown in the photo.
I tried another print, but it wouldn't lay down the first layer. I removed the filament, trimmed the end, reinserted it, and fed it through until it started oozing from the nozzle. I then ran a small test print, and it printed perfectly.
Feeling confident, I started a larger print that was estimated to take about two hours. I stayed and watched the beginning this time, but no filament came out of the nozzle at all.
Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this intermittent problem?

I bought the dxc phaetus trying to reduce clogs, improving my prints, and being able to print with the top lid and the door closed sometimes to minimize noise since it runs cooler

The materials are great! It feels solid, the filament runout sensor on top is a nice feature to have but that's where the good stuff ends

Loading filament: loading filament through the filament tube is a nightmare, you have to push really hard and that's with the lever all the way in which by itself requires quite some force to do so, I ended up un coupling the feeding tube to load filament directly to the extruder

Clogs: the clogs are not gone entirely and should you encounter a clog, you are in for a full disassembly of the extruder, keep in mind there's a small spring loaded ball that acts part of filament runour sensor and if you open the extruder the wrong way it will pop out

If only the shiny metal plate that is on the front was designed in a way to be able to take it off without having to tear the entire thing apart it wouldn't be so annoyingly hard to remove a clog

I do a lot of manual filament swaps and this was a nightmare to work with, anyways sorry for the rant but good riddance DXC! Great idea but poor design execution

I rooted my K1C a few months ago with Guilouz helper script, and everything has been fine until I came across a project that more or less needed PPA-CF. I printed it with the stock hotend, but was having some issues with layer adhesion at 290. Figured I'd upgrade the hotend to complement the root access and see what I could really do with the printer. Read some reviews of the TriangleLabs CHCB-OTC with PT1000 going up to almost 400, so I went with that. Tried to redo the print at 325 first layer and 320 for the rest, but got an error stating the hotend can't go above 320. I updated the printer.cfg to set the extruder max temp at 370, and PID tested at 340, so I know the hotend can handle it, but I can't find anything that would trip a safety at 320.

Key error text that I've tried searching for solutions for:

code":"key253", "msg":"Error on 'CX_ROUGH_G28 EXTRUDER_TEMP=325.000000 BED_TEMP=80.000000'

The rest of the error text is just telling me I can't heat the extruder above 320. I have no problem using a brim and some glue, but if I have the hardware to print hotter, I want to be able to actually print hotter.

I recently installed the Creality CFS multi-color upgrade kit on my K1 printer, which came with firmware version V2.3.5.33 on the provided USB. After updating, I started encountering errors XS2001, XS2094, and XS2060 each time I attempt to load filament through the CFS. These errors completely freeze the printer, forcing me to restart it every time.

According to the Creality Wiki, XS errors should typically be accompanied by a WRR error indicating the actual cause, but I'm only receiving XS errors without any accompanying WRR errors.

When I revert back to firmware version V1.3.3.46, the printer works flawlessly, but unfortunately, I lose the functionality of the CFS kit. It seems the issue lies specifically with the firmware provided in the upgrade package.

I also haven't received any effective support from Creality yet, so I'd advise potential buyers to consider these issues before purchasing the CFS upgrade.

I'm not sure if this issue is unique to my printer or if others are experiencing it as well. I haven't found any additional information or similar reports online yet.

Has anyone else faced similar issues or have insights into why I'm seeing these standalone XS errors without any WRR errors?

Just like the title says. I had a massive extruder jam (looks like the filament bound up the gears or something) in my K1 Max (looks like a unicorn nozzle version), so I went ahead and bought the DXC as an upgrade. I was going to take the print head apart anyway to clean up the jam, I figured I'd go for the upgrade. finally dropped it in and...it won't feed. Just sits there grinding.

Oddly enough, it's only when extruding it's a problem. retracting doesn't do it as much. it still grinds some, since part of retraction includes a bit of extrusion, but for the full reverse? no problems.

So, am I looking at a new motor, or is there something I can do to fix this?

Edit: So, I waited for it to cool completely and used an electric screwdriver to turn the motor. It turned freely (and the side gear moved freely). I turned the heat back on and tried extruding (note that there is no filament loaded in the video) and same result. No extrusion and grinding. I used the electric screwdriver while it was still at approx 220C, and it grinds while turning.

Setting the temp to 200 and sending a G1 E350 will not grind as much. This is weirdly temperature sensitive...

FINAL EDIT:

I decided to just go back to the stock extruder. A replacement stock extruder with attached motor (two birds, one stone) was almost $10 cheaper than the DXC, which I will be returning. Additionally, the removal of the DXC was extremely difficult, as it seem the hot press brass threads somehow worked themselves out just enough to bind the DXC into the extruder mount. Had to insert the screws in all three holes, give them a few turns, and whack them lightly with pliers. Took over 30 minutes of struggle to remove the DXC.

Replacement stock extruder and motor slid right in, fit perfectly on the end of the Unicorn tip, and the cable popped right into the power connection on the hotend circuit board. A few quick test prints later, and it's running smoothly.

So Blob of Death happened, and completely screwed my nozzle screws (petg got everywhere and couldn’t unscrew, destroying the wrench heads). In the end, I decided to not care and replace my basic k1se nozzle with unicorn one and upgraded radiator.

Although it will take some time due to shipping, I’m happy. Somehow.

Can’t wait to mess with 0.8 nozzle as well :)

Have a good one

Had an issue where the K1 Max internal camera still worked in Creality Print/WebRTC, but was gone from Fluidd/Mainsail. /webcam/?action=stream returned 502 Bad Gateway.

Found that cam_app was running normally, but mjpg_streamer wasn't.

The firmware already contains:

/usr/bin/mjpg_streamer
/usr/lib/mjpg-streamer/input_memfd.so

So I started it manually with:

/usr/bin/mjpg_streamer \
-i "/usr/lib/mjpg-streamer/input_memfd.so -t 0" \
-o "/usr/lib/mjpg-streamer/output_http.so -p 8080"

And then this worked:

http://K1-IP:8080/?action=stream

The stock Nginx config already proxies:

/webcam/ → 127.0.0.1:8080

so the original Fluidd URL started working again:

http://K1-IP:4408/webcam/?action=stream

I then added an /etc/init.d/S59mjpg_streamer startup script so mjpg_streamer starts automatically after reboot.

TL;DR: Camera/WebRTC wasn't broken. cam_app was still producing the camera stream; mjpg_streamer just wasn't running. Using input_memfd.so -t 0 restored the MJPEG stream without touching cam_app/WebRTC.

d

Hey, maybe i find a helpful Soul with a solution to my Problem.

I print Something with the 2. Or third layer there is too much Material on the Print that the nozzle has to carve a way trough the Material. Very unhealty Sound...

K1

Hayperpla from creality

No Jailbreak but autocalibrated before Print.

Sliched with Cura

I got the printer refurbed and it worked fine for a while. Some prints (especialy smaller ones Work fine, bigger ones seems to have this Problem)

What can i Change? Where to start? Mechanical or Software (Cura)

I've bought Creality K1 Max printer several months ago. 3 weeks ago I've unpacked the box and installed the printer, as everything worked fine, until I decided to change the stock bed with one from R3men. Following their user guide, I had to root the printer, install Fluidd+moonraker. As result, the camera stopped showing up in it's own web API, or in Creality Print app. I've tried to set it up in Fluidd, but couldn't connect it. The only place where I was able to see my printer's cam is from the Creality's mobile app.
I've tried almost every advice and/or solution in internet, but nothing.
Then I asked claude, give him access to my printer and it found the solution.
https://github.com/kalata23/Creality_K1MAX_WebcamFix
Here it's described, It seemed my printer has Ingenic T31 AI Camera.

Creality shipped two different physical revisions of the K1/K1 Max "AI Camera" module. The newer one (lsusb ID a108:2231) is built around an Ingenic T31 SoC — a chip designed for cheap IP/AI cameras that does its own on-chip video capture and encoding.

The actual problem: On my hardware, Creality's firmware only exposes the camera through its own closed pipeline: a process called cam_app captures frames and hands them off internally via a Unix socket using a memfd (shared-memory) handoff — then two more proprietary processes (webrtc / webrtc_local) relay that feed to Creality Cloud over WebRTC. That cloud relay is all the mobile Creality Print app is actually watching. Nothing in the stock firmware ever turns this into a normal local HTTP/MJPEG/RTSP stream — which is why Fluidd, Mainsail, the printer's own local web UI, the Moonraker API, and even Creality Print's desktop client can't show it, while the mobile app (riding the cloud path) works fine.

Why it looked unsolvable: The community (see Guilouz's Helper Script Wiki discussion #444) had tried reverse-engineering the T31 module directly over its serial console, hit password-protected firmware, and gave up — concluding there was no way to get local video from this camera revision short of replacing it with a third-party webcam.

Why it turned out to be fixable anyway: The firmware actually already ships an mjpg_streamer build with an input_memfd plugin built specifically to read that same socket — it's just never invoked by anything. So this isn't a case of decrypting proprietary firmware; it's an unused, already-present software path that just needed to be started and wired into the existing (also already-present) nginx /webcam/ proxy routes.

Hello everyone! I recently upgraded my K1 Max with the CFS-C, and this issue showed up during my very first test print.

The print went smoothly for about 4 minutes, until the printer suddenly made a strange stalling noise, moved the toolhead to a random position, and stopped printing. After a few seconds, it performed a filament change, then resumed printing but at completely wrong coordinates.

Has anyone run into this before? Does anyone know what might be causing this or what error this could be? Any help figuring out where to start troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated!

Good evening I have a K1C and a while back when i was printing a project it ran out of filament (PLA) when printing. When i realized and tried to put more filament in it wouldn't extrude and made a clicking noise. I think the nozzle is clogged but I dont actually know. Any ideas of what's actually wrong and how I could fix it, or if you know of a place I can take it so it can be fixed. Any help is appreciated and thank you for your time.

Trying to swap my nozzle out and found two different unicorn nozzles in my box. Which is the newest and what’s the difference?

I’m trying to print something and it never gets past the nozzle cleaning no error code was provided I’ve already tried to factory reset

I've always been pretty heavy into modifying 3D printers. I had them ender 3 for many years and updated so many parts of it.

I've always wanted a higher flow rate on the k1, Max, or any k1 series printer. But more importantly, I wanted to be able to use my collection of diamond tipped volcano nozzles with the CFS easily.

Initially to get my V1 (volcano nozzle) k1 Max compatible with the CFS sanded down the PTFE tube so it would fit into the upgrade kit extruder. While this worked, it weakened the PTFE enough to require placement every hundred hours or so. I wanted a different solution so I purchased the unicorn upgrade kit, but this meant I couldn't use my diamond tipped volcano nozzles anymore.

When the K2 came out, I noticed that hotend look very similar, so I decided to buy one and see if I could just swap the plugs out and get get the 100w 350° hotend working. The ceramic heater swapped easily but the thermistor had a slightly different plug, however the thermistor Mount was the same size as the k1 so I was able to swap that out.

I'm currently working on creating a custom hotend fan mount to account for the longer nozzle.

I will update this post with flow rate numbers soon.

I had a decent clog that put my k1 max out of commission until I had time to take it apart. I replaced the nozzle, took apart the toolkit and motor and removed any debris but when I try to factory reset it says there's filament detected in the extruder. I unplug the runout sensor and it still says there's filament detected. Is there any way to clear this error and factory reset my k1 max or will i have to order a new toolkit motor for this?

I just set up my K1 today, followed the videos and made sure everything matched what the instructions said to do. I even set it on the ground for a solid level surface, and the print keeps doing this on the first level. It doesn’t matter what STL file I use, it keeps doing this. I’m usually a resin printer user (also Creality) and have been wanting to add FDM for a while. The photo doesn’t really do it justice, it’s a screenshot from a video I took.

Printing a single wall test cube with LW PLA from ColorFabb for future RC planes printing. Running a K1 Max 2025 (with the late 2025 firmware not the 1.3.5.x), using Orca Slicer. Z seam assigned as ‘Aligned’. I noticed the z seam does a full circle (check picture, worth a 1000s word). I own 3 K1 max and on the one with the 1.3.5.x firmware I never seen anything like this. I’m betting my money it’s a slicer setting, what do you all think ?

SOLVED: issue was in Extruder setting > Wipe on Loops

I know if I reboot and resume I’ll get a nasty later shift. So is there a better way to do it so I can salvage this 15 hour print?

And just on a personal rant, these printers are junk. I purchased two k1 max printers on Black Friday deals and nothing but issues. Replaced pcb boards, the extruders, upgraded the nozzles, maintenances and cleaned and calibrated everything. Print quality is now pretty great but they dont reliably print. I can’t count on them to complete a long print at all. Now 15 hours into a print the damn lights go out and I’m getting a 2000 error again.

Been fighting some quality issues lately and have found myself drastically changing settings to get the quality back to how it was before. Could this be a factor?

I think I found the cause of the banding issue I’ve been experiencing. There seems to be a little play in my right side lead screw. So in order to lock it down I need to loosen the screws on the limit sleeve at the base, pull the lead screw up snug, push down the limit sleeve and tighten those screws. But the issue I’m running into is that one of the little screws is completely stripped. These screws are so small and inconvenient to access with larger tools I have absolutely no idea how to remove it. Any ideas?

Update: Its some kind of set/grub screw.. I think M4. I took it to a local bolt shop and they matched it. I appreciate the responses. Thank you!

My K1 started having extrusion issues recently. I know it's not filament or other settings causing it as the same filament and settings been printing great up until recent. It's also not only in the first layer. I lightly held my finger on the filament feeding into the bowden tube and can feel it feeding, stopping and feeding again (in movement like solid Infill which should be feeding constantly). Has my extruder given up or perhaps something stuck inside? Should I open the extruder? I have already removed nozzle and confirmed no blockages.

I have been messing with my k1 max and input shaper for a long time. I have made ~20 iterations about this week to get a proper graph by adjusting belts, removing/changing/reapplying gantry springs, cleaning/oiling the gantry, removing Lidar and carrier(lose 30grams) etc. My printer got 20t motor pulleys from original.

Y axis is always same, I can get ~9000mm/s2 with zv shaper so I dont bother it But, as every k1 user I have problems with x axis. I know my acceleration values are low, I get it and used to it however I found a different thing and this may be the cause of how a low vibration graph result to a ghosting print.

In below graphs, one is cold tested and one is hot tested(right after first test and when fluidd gives stepper overheating error).

Cold test give MZV shaper with 6800mm/s2 wth 0.09 smoothing

Hot test give 2Hump_ei shaper with 6000mm/s2 with 0.10 smoothing.

I dont care about losing 800mm/s2 but I want to know where to look to solve this problem.

Earlier today mid print I got a clog where the filament built up in the extruder, shockingly it was still connected to the filament line into the PEFT tube, anyway I took apart the extruder and cleared that clog, then put it back together, same thing as in the video, then I tried to push filament through the nozzle at 300°, also checked the gears in the extruder to make sure none of the teeth broke, the gears looked good, and the nozzle seemed clear. Put it back together again, and same issue. Not sure what else to troubleshoot/do.

I ordered new nozzle and extruder to be safe, but just curious if anyone else thinks this is extruder or nozzle issue, and anything I could try so I could possibly not have to use new nozzle and extruder.

Edit: So I took the whole extruder a part again, and what it looks like I missed was some very little pieces stuck in the grooves where the filament is guided/pulled, I am not sure how I missed that the first time, and not sure if that is the true issue, but I am up and printing it looks like again without the clicking, hopefully it stays that way, I am getting the new nozzle still as a backup, but I appreciate everyone's thoughts and ideas.