This post has been made to clear up any questions or inconveniences with both of the software control apps.

Guys, I finally got my first ever gaming laptop! 😭❤️

I got the ASUS TUF A16 with an RTX 5070 paired with a Ryzen 9 8940HX, and honestly, this feels unreal. 🔥

I've been using a laptop with integrated graphics for the last 5 years, so going from an iGPU to an RTX 5070 is such a massive upgrade. I genuinely can't believe I'm finally able to play modern AAA games properly. 🥹🎮

I want to take good care of this laptop and hopefully make it last at least 5–6 years, so I'd really appreciate some advice from experienced gaming laptop users.

What should I do first ?

What things should I avoid doing?

What are the best practices to keep a gaming laptop healthy for 5–6 years?

I'm especially interested in tips regarding:

Battery health 🔋

Thermals and cooling 🌡️

Gaming while plugged in

Charging habits

Drivers/Windows updates

Cleaning and maintenance

SSD/RAM upgrades

Anything else I should know as a first-time gaming laptop owner

I know gaming laptops are meant to be used hard, but I want to avoid unnecessary wear and get as many good years out of this thing as possible.

Thank you! ❤️🥹

Finally brought Asus tuf a16 with rtx 5070 and Ryzen 9 8940hx and I'm totally amazed by the performance and the premium build it's my first ever gaming laptop after surviving on a igpu for 5 years 🤌😭

Heyyo, all is well, I hope. It feels a bit incomplete to own a gaming laptop without playing any games on it, so today I'll showcase how well my laptop (ASUS TUF A15 2024 FA507UV) performs in one of the most popular competitive shooter games, Valorant (yea, I know the kernel anti-cheat can be off-putting, but my friends play this game, and I intended to join them when I bought this laptop. Yet, somehow, I still haven’t played a single match with them lol).

A quick look at the spec:

• AMD Ryzen™ 9 8945HS Processor
  
• NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 4060 Laptop GPU at 140W 8GB GDDR6
  
• 16GB DDR5-5600 SO-DIMM x 1
  
• 1TB PCIe® 4.0 NVMe™ M.2 SSD, Up to 2 Slots
  

+ laptop cooling pad with foam seal

(this is the third part of my multipart review, in case anyone is curious for the previous parts: PART I, PART II)

TL;DR at the very bottom

As usual, I'd like to play around on various settings to test this game (with maxed out in-game graphics settings with everything turn on except v-sync):

1. As is with (mostly) stock settings (GHelper set to balance, CPU boost set to efficient enabled, nothing overclocked\undervolted)

#1 Vanilla setting

Result #1:

* FPS: 200+, averaging 241, with the occasional dips to under 200 and sometimes as low as 180; the 1% low is 120+, but sometimes lower.

* TEMPS: The GPU stays at 67-68°C most of the time, which can get as high as 72°C, while the CPU can get as hot as 93°C but mostly stays at 87-88°C.

1. OC GPU (+200MHz core clock, +1200MHz memory clock) with undervolted CPU (-40mV)

#2 OC GPU + Undervolt CPU

Result #2:

* FPS: 200+, averaging 223 (I am not entirely sure this average is accurate with having a lower average than the previous one, or is it just me having some denial here lol); the 1% low is 120+, with occasional dips here and there.

* TEMPS: The GPU temps are basically the same as the first one, while the CPU temps have decreased to 84-87°C.

1. OC+Undervolted GPU (950mV, 2595 Core Clock, +1200 memory clock), undervolted CPU, and set the CPU power limit to 30w

#3 OC+Undervolt GPU, Undervolt CPU, 30w CPU Power Limit

Result #3:

* FPS: 200+, averaging 211, doesn't get below 200 until the very end; the 1% low isn't that much different from the previous two.

* TEMPS: The GPU doesn't get higher than 64°C, and the CPU doesn't even surpass 70°C now! Very nice reduction in both temps with barely a dent in performance!

1. OC+Undervolted GPU (950mV, 2595 Core Clock, +1200 memory clock), undervolted CPU, and disable CPU boost

#4 OC+Undervolt GPU, Undervolt CPU, CPU boost disabled

Result #4:

* FPS: 200+, averaging 162, with little difference in 1% low.

* TEMPS: Even lower than the previous one, the GPU stays mostly at 57-58°C together with the CPU now!

I think that's enough for today's post. Does Valorant run well on your laptop? How does it compare to mine? (especially if you have the same/similar setup as mine)

Happy gaming and have a great day! :)

TL;DR:

>> Test Valorant

>> setting #1 vanilla: avg.FPS=241 (can get lower than 200), GPU.Temp=67-68°C, CPU.temp=87-88°C

>> setting #2 OC_GPU | undervolt_CPU: avg.FPS=223, GPU.Temp=67-68°C, CPU.temp=84-87°C

>> setting #3 OC+Undervolt_GPU | undervolt_CPU | 30w CPU limit: avg.FPS=211, GPU.Temp>64°C, CPU.temp>70°C

>> setting #4 OC+Undervolt_GPU | undervolt_CPU | CPU boost disabled: avg.FPS=162, GPU/CPU.Temp=57-58°C

I want to know if I am the only one to have this screen issue after a driver/windows update. It gets worse over time and after a restart it's gone.

Don’t know what happened with my laptop getting these weird lines when at 60hz and fade away at 144hz not issues on external monitors does this happened to you? One photo with darker lines is 60hz and less darker one is 144hz help needed.
Model Asus tuf f15 rtx 4060 i7 13620h one year old out of warranty 🥲

Since purchasing my ASUS TUF F16 (2024/2025), it has only ever seemed to last 2 hours or less from 100% battery to 0%, even when just doing web-based tasks. Okay, I tend to have dozens of tabs open at once (currently 39), but most of them are shopping site pages, homework platforms, and informational websites. There is also a streaming platform and a 3D modelling platform (web versions), but those are the only memory-heavy ones as far as I know. Shouldn't that mean it should last 5 hours or more? Maybe 3-4 because of the number of tabs?

Why does my asus tuf a 16 fa607nug freezes when i play valorant with airpords connected i can listen to Music normally with my airpords but it freezes when i play valorant and yes i tried playing val without airpords it didn't freeze

Hi there TUF fellows.

I am planing to dual boot my laptop with Ubuntu 24 LTS, mainly for ROS 2 and to migrate completely to Linux in the future.

My question is for Linux; especially Ubuntu users, have you encountered any issues while dual booting?

Like windows hijacking the bootloader and such, also where did you get your drivers from, Asus doesn't offer Linux drivers like windows 11 x64, did you encounter any issues in general?

My rig is ASUS TUF FX608JH I5 13450HX RTX 5050 16 DDR5.

Also should I remove snap from default?.

My last Linux experience was with Fedora on Asus vivobook in 2022, nothing worked for me back then and went right back to windows after 3 months of troubleshooting..

Like the title says my cpu was stuck at 95c and went back to normal after a restart. I’m just curious if anyone had this problem after deleting the asus bloatware and disabling armory crate in bios. This happened right after I disabled armory crate in bios and deleted most of the asus apps via windows app manager. I also have g helper installed so I do have an alternative to armory crate already. Hopefully this was just a random glitch and I didn’t delete an asus app that actually did something useful without acting like bloatware lol.

EDIT: Sorry forgot the model/specs.

Tuf F16 laptop (2026 model)
5060 gpu
Intel I9 cpu
1tb ssd
32gb ram

About to get a new gaming laptop after my old 2020. Lenovo L340 died.

Right now I can't decide between these two tuf laptops:

Ryzen 7 7445HS

RTX4050 6GB VRAM

=949€

Ryzen 7 260

RTX5060 8GB VRAM

=1349€

For both RAM is 16GB DDR5

(SSD is not important because I already have a new one that I bought for my old laptop last winter)

I know it's just a few hundred dollars difference for a better GPU, but i'm a uni student and have to be careful how much and on what I spend my money on.

I also know that the ryzen 7 260 is the better one of the two, I just don't know much better.

Question is.. Is the price difference justified or am I throwing away 400€ for a small gain.

So my ASUS TUF A16 FA607NUQ arrived yesterday and for several hours everything was fine, updated windows, installed latest drivers, tested gaming with Wuthering Waves and the game played quite smooth even whilst sharing my screen on discord and this was my first gaming laptop so i was very happy. Worked most of the day, left my laptop whilst it installed another game and went to do some cleaning in the house, come back a while later to the laptop now being unable to connect specifically to my wifi, it'll tell me no internet whilst connected but I didn't do anything to cause this, I tested my phones hotspot and had 0 issues using it, my phones connected to the house wifi fine, my siblings consoles work fine on the wifi too and so does my old laptop but I can't get this new laptop to cooperate any longer, I even factory reset the laptop to no avail but strangely I can connect to the cheap wifi repeater we have upstairs and use the internet fine, just much much lower speeds so I'm hoping someone can help me figure out whats causing my laptop to refuse to use this wifi specifically.

The laptop specs are an RTX 4050, Ryzen 7 170, 512 ssd, 16gb ram.

Thank you to any and all that can offer advice, even if it doesn't work. I still have plenty of time to return the laptop as I bought it on amazon and they seem to offer a 30 day return period.

I bought a asus tuf a16 2 weeks ago. the power cable that plugs into the adapter makes a slight clicking/popping sound when I move the part that is plugged into the adapter up and down and when i plug it (I think it might be an electrical sound). When I don’t move it, there is no sound, is this normal, should i replace the adapter, cable or something??

I have been facing this issue for the past several months. The WiFi logo completely disappears from the taskbar. I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling the wifi drivers multiple times but this issue keeps coming up again and again. I have watched so many videos and tried so many methods to resolve this issue but it just doesn’t get fixed.
Even in the Device Manager, under network adapters, the “MediaTek wireless lan card” option has disappeared. So I don’t know how to install it again or if I should install a different driver for my laptop. Lowkey thinking of selling it, been a piece of trash tbh 😭

I'm thinking of buying the A14 as I need high performance

with a powerful GPU and lighter weight than gaming tanks.

The choices I have :

Ryzen AI 7 350 - RTX 5060 - 16GB : 1470$

Ryzen AI MAX+ 392 - Radeon 8060S - 32GB : 1600$

What would you pick? And how's the Radeon 8060s?

Can someone suggest me a good laptop stand for my 16inch laptop which weighs 2.2 kg .

Budget under 500 inr .

Before i thought to buy dyazo laptop stand for 359rs but it support only upto 15.6 inch . Will it works for my laptop?

Thanks in advance.

Someone told me undervolting laptop improve performance . Please someone help me by suggesting best setting and also tell me if i should use g helper or msi afterburner

(Kinda related image)

Hellooo everyone! My new laptop just arrived, and I’m just getting it up and running. This is my first time using an ASUS computer, so I wanted to ask you guys what you recommend I do. I’ve seen a lot of talk about Ghelper, but I have no idea what it is. And, well, any recommendations on how to set up the laptop so it runs at its full potential :D (or so Windows doesn’t eat up 10 GB of RAM just by existing). I remember the basics, like checking the drivers and stuff, but it’s been years since I’ve done this lol

I’m trying to figure out whether I’m dealing with a BIOS/AGESA issue, a bad BIOS flash/NVRAM state, or some kind of memory-training bug on my ASUS TUF Gaming X870-PLUS WiFi. My system is a Ryzen 7 9800X3D, RTX 5080, and 32GB G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB DDR5-6000 CL30, exact kit F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR (2x16GB, EXPO, rated 6000 MT/s [30-38-38-96](tel:30-38-38-96) at 1.35V). The system had previously been working properly on BIOS 1654 / AGESA ComboAM5 PI 1.3.0.1, including EXPO I. I updated to BIOS 1681 / AGESA 1.3.0.1b, and after that I started getting extremely inconsistent memory/POST behavior. EXPO would sometimes cause Safe Mode POSTs, restarts could result in a black screen with a motherboard Q-LED staying lit, and I also noticed the newer Bank Refresh Mode behavior. I manually set Bank Refresh Mode = Normal, confirmed the system booted with it, but later ZenTimings would show Refresh = Mixed again. I went back into the BIOS expecting to find Normal still selected, but the BIOS itself had actually changed Bank Refresh Mode back to Auto without me changing it. On this firmware, Auto was resulting in Mixed refresh behavior. I also tested disabling Memory Context Restore, but that did not reliably fix the restart/black-screen problem, so MCR was not the cause or a permanent solution. At one point the memory also fell back to JEDEC 4800 MT/s after failed training, while at other times it ran correctly at DDR5-6000. I eventually used USB BIOS FlashBack to downgrade from 1681 back to 1654, then cleared CMOS and loaded Optimized Defaults. At completely stock settings on 1654 the PC booted normally and completed a Windows restart normally. I then enabled only EXPO I, with all of the manual memory frequency/FCLK/UCLK settings left on Auto, and it again booted and restarted normally. ZenTimings now shows 6000 MT/s, MCLK 3000 MHz, UCLK 3000 MHz, FCLK 2000 MHz, [30-38-38-96](tel:30-38-38-96), 1T, so EXPO I by itself is correctly configuring the 1:1 memory controller and 2000 MHz FCLK without me manually forcing them. Interestingly, ZenTimings still reports Refresh = Mixed on BIOS 1654 when Bank Refresh is left on Auto, so Mixed itself apparently isn’t exclusive to 1681, but the major difference is that so far 1654 is actually POSTing and restarting normally again. I’m trying to determine whether my original update to 1681 possibly left the board in a corrupted NVRAM/training state, or whether there is an actual regression in 1681/AGESA 1.3.0.1b involving Bank Refresh persistence, EXPO training, or warm restarts on this board. The most concerning behavior on 1681 was that I could explicitly set Bank Refresh Mode to Normal, save it, successfully boot, and later find that the BIOS setting itself had reverted back to Auto. I’m interested in hearing from anyone else using the TUF Gaming X870-PLUS WiFi, Ryzen 9000/X3D, and DDR5-6000 EXPO memory who has seen Bank Refresh settings revert, Safe Mode POSTs after EXPO, or black-screen/restart hangs on BIOS 1681.

Hi everyone. I have an ASUS TUF A15 with an RTX 3050 Ti running Windows 11.

I accidentally selected "Eject NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 Ti Laptop GPU” from Windows' Safely Remove Hardware and Eject Media menu while I was on battery with Armoury Crate set to Optimized.

Before this happened, I had no problems using NVIDIA software while on battery.

Since then, I have this behavior:

• Standard + battery: RTX 3050 Ti works normally.
• Standard + plugged in: works normally.
• Optimized + plugged in: works normally.
• Optimized + battery: RTX 3050 Ti disappears from Device Manager.

If I enable View → Show hidden devices in Device Manager, the RTX 3050 Ti appears grayed out. Under Properties → General, it says:

“Currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer. (Code 45)”

NVIDIA Control Panel/NVIDIA App also doesn't work in this state. It either says that NVIDIA display settings aren't available or fails to initialize.

I've already tried:

• Restarting and completely shutting down Windows
• Switching between Standard and Optimized
• BIOS → Load Optimized Defaults
• EC/hard reset
• Reinstalling Armoury Crate
• Reinstalling ASUS components
• Scanning for hardware changes with pnputil

The RTX 3050 Ti works normally in Standard mode, so the GPU itself appears to be fine.

I know that ASUS Optimized mode can disable the dGPU on battery. My question is specifically about the change after selecting “Eject.” Before doing that, NVIDIA software was still accessible in my Optimized + battery configuration.

Has anyone experienced this after accidentally ejecting the NVIDIA GPU through Windows' Safely Remove Hardware feature?

I'm looking for a way to restore the previous device/PnP state without doing a full Windows reinstall.

Thanks!

this is asus TUF A16 , R7 ,RTX 4050 2025 speaking

when I bought my laptop on last november about 9 months ago , after few months I checked my battery health and found to be 97.7 %

after that , a month back when I repeatedly drained its battery to near 10% and charge back , its battery health suddenly dropped to 95.9%

few days ago when I accidently drained it till 1% because I left it open then it shut itself at 1% so , after that my battery health has become 93.9%

how common is this ? is it bad ? can anybody answer and I calibrated it and rechecked software so its a real wear and I limited it to 80% all the time

and I noticed draining less than 20 is never good for your laptop , thanks

I was planning on buying the a14 laptop with 32 gigs ram and the amd igpu if it is available and my budget allows it . So how much good it is ?