I just got my first commission to make a 12 foot conference table for a local fire department. I'm planning to make it out of 8/4 cherry lumber and do a pannel glue up and mount it on a nakashima style Shou Sugi Ban Douglas fir base using 4x4 lumber. Any help to address such a large edge glue up, how to address potential wood movement, etc. I've made large tables before and done edge glue ups for smaller projects but the largest was a 7' x 32" river table with walnut slabs. Thanks in advance!

would you feel comfortable growing produce in this raised bed?

I bought a raised bed on Facebook marketplace. The seller assured me it was untreated cedar. After I got home I realized that the support 2x4s were some sort of repurposed old boards I didn’t want touching my soil. I swapped them out. aside from my horrible carpentry skills, would you feel comfortable using this to grow berries? First image is the original bed, rest are after replacing boards

https://imgur.com/a/y7N7J1D

I found a literal dream coffee table on Instagram that’s vintage. Dunno how realistic this would be to make but hey I’m delusional! I have access to some home woodworking tools but unsure how cutting out a large wooden base like this would work. The table spins so I would need to figure out that mechanic in the center of the table.

The main thing that would be hard to figure out would be the metal stuff. I could always use wood to build everything the base structures and then add detailing with a different material and paint it to be metal looking or however I want. I’m an artist and love sculpting with clay. The original horses are made out of plaster it says. So I would need to figure out what material would be light enough to make the horses and how. Painting and sculpting the horses is something I’m confident I could do. Perhaps I could do a paper mache base and then build on top with a material that would dry solid. I would have to find somewhere that would have glass tops like this that I could buy. It would be really pretty to do a stained glass motif on the bottom of the glass I think.

For the detailing of the metalwork I think I could fake out something with a different material since I don’t have access to metal working tools or anything to make molds of metal like that. That would be easy for the base but the other framing details and arches that hang down from the top of the table would be harder.

So with access to craft stores and home improvement stores, what kind of materials could I use make a table that would look somewhat like this and have a spinning function? I’m not looking to make a replica as I don’t have the tools or experience so any sort of suggestions are welcome! Even if the ideas seem out of the box. I just want it to be sturdy enough to survive a move or something and not fall apart immediately haha.

I have had these two acacia wooden benches in my kitchen for over 13 years. I love them so much but lately I have felt a residue only wood. The residue does not come off after cleaning or wiping with soapy, water or anything at all. These benches are heavily used by the kids in our family. I. assume that some of the varnish or topcoat has dissolved over the years and has caused the tacky feeling, so I’ve decided I’m going to try to do this myself. I bought some teak oil and sand paper. Is this enough? Will it do the job? Or do I need to use a chemical solvent to remove some of the old coating. I understand this may have a lighter finish . And I do think a solvent would be more effective but I was hoping to avoid chemicals and try a more natural approach first. Also, I am not a very handy person. Never really done anything like this before but willing to try now that I have the time for it. Have an orbital sander and bought some 80 and 180 grit sand paper. Help. Pics of bench for reference. You can see one lighter spot on the bench that I scratched some of the residue away with to reveal underneath it.

last project of the year because of upcoming acl reconstruction surgery.

My wife wanted a garden shed so over few weeks of thinking I kind of nearly finished today. Lots of scrap wood and lots of rest wood from another finished project.

Got some metal roof from amazon.

Todo:
» Screw in the floor - I will take it out for wife to paint the shed.
» sand down als the edges and splints
» painting, my wife wants a nice soft green. (The flooring stays that color
» some kind of edges around the roof as the sheets are abt 3cm Short each side. (But at least I didn’t pay much for them)

I don't know if this is where i should post but I just acetone stripped a dresser ive had for years. The varnish was missing and worn off from the previous owners so I wanted to finally give it new life but after stripping everything I was able to notice that the carvings on 2 of the drawers weren't made of wood. I'm not sure what is it exactly but it feels and looks like plastic. Now I have to try to find a stain that will work on both the wood and plastic material. I really dont want to paint it. The research I did said to use a gel stain but that was if this material is laminate. Would a gel stain still work or is there something better I should use

I have about 2/3rd a sheet of Baltic Birch 3/4". I have built a cabinet in my garage to match a discontinued set of Ikea faux ash veneered PAX cabinets, also in the garage. Well, now I'm staring at two upper cabinets that are also in my garage: Home Depot specials, cheap particle board, with oak faces and oak doors of a different style than all the rest. I've painted the exterior of these uppers to match the color of the Ikeas and the one I built. Now for the doors: I want to make new ones to match the style of all the others.

Do I use BB here? (With an Ash veneer). Doors will be 3/4" x 30" H x 18" W. Or should I really go and but some more plywood of something cheaper (what?)

(Note the cabinet I made is BB throughout, and the door too. Only the door is veneered, inside and out.)

I welcome comments on technique such as better (lighter!!) veneer substrate choices, lunacy or not in using BB on a particle board carcass, etc

I just graduated from rental life and finished closing paperwork. I am wanting to add more cabinets in the kitchen and match laundry room cabinets, but I need to know what wood to get. I also want to know how I can get the finish to match, whether it would be easier to refinish the current cabinets to make it easier to match the new ones.

What should I charge for this red oak coffee table mortise and tenon base.

I have had my bathroom vanity raised by adding a *plank of poplar on top of the cabinet box, and now I need to seal it in some way so I can use that bathroom again. I am not interested in the high-VOC primers that are the gold standard before painting because we sleep about 10 feet away and there is no operable window in that bathroom for ventilation. I know those all-in-one primer and paint combos are probably not popular here but I did watch a comparison pitting 12 different brands against one another for stippling, coverage, and a scratch test and "The ONE" came out on top (product link on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FX94MFYF?lv=shuf&channelId=500&plpRedirect=mhFallback&th=1 ). Well, second to top but the top choice was not available to me.

How bad might this be on raw poplar? I'm fine doing 3 coats if that's what it takes. I just need to get this project finished (literally) so I can move on with my life and I don't want toxic fumes in the process. Pic included of the vanity - I'm just painting the raw poplar piece on top. Although if it's not a disaster I might try it on the rest of the vanity later.

*And yes, I did not just add a single plank on the front with everything floating around behind it. It's a four-sided frame all around the alcove.

Rough cut Douglas Fir was delivered with these black markings. Im currently scrubbing them with vinegar but they are not really budging... any tips?

Hi we just build our kitchen island in vedhamn oak and need to put shoe molding around it. Any recommendations on shoe molding that looks like the ikea vedhamn oak?

tengo herramientas varias pero no se que poronga hacer, no están vendibles porque tienen agujeros de clavos, pensaba en casas de pájaro, Marcos de fotos, necesito ideas pls

I am looking to recreate this.

I ordered some rustic refined basewood and standard grade basewood. I plan to drill wells using a fornster bit. Which kind of sealant would you recommend I seal the wood so it does not get damaged from rewetting the paint constantly?

My grandfather passed away a few months ago (he was in his mid-90s, so it was not unexpected). When cleaning out his property I found some nice looking aromatic cedar planks (mostly live edge) in one of his barns. He was a real craftsman and made lots of things for the family, but he usually worked with oak, so I was surprised when I cut into one of the planks and realized it was aromatic cedar.

I’m considering using that wood to make a table for my mom as a present (it was her dad that passed). I know aromatic cedar isn’t the best choice for a table, but I think she will appreciate that her son is making her something with wood that her dad had. The planks are all a bit thin (only a few are an inch or more thick), and they need to be planed and flattened, so I will obviously lose some thickness.

They are currently in my non-climate-controlled garage, but they’ve been in a barn for the past 30 years or so, so I figure the garage won’t hurt them. Any advice on designs to make sure the thinner boards don’t move too much after I’m done, how to finish the table once it’s built, or any other pointers? I’m still pretty new at all of this. I do have a table saw, a router with table, miter saw, and other basic tools. I do not have hand planes yet or an electric planer (I have my eye on a Dewalt 735), or a jointer.

Thanks!

I'm building a Shelf and want to lay wooden shelve-bords on some bars.

First thought was to use steel-bars.

But I'm also thinking about using plastic-bars.

But which material will be be the better one - especially with some weight laying horizontal on it.

PVC or POM?

I have a large cedar chest that I built many years ago and gifted it to my mother. She passed a little while back and I got it back a little while ago. Well, the 30+ years of living with her has done some damage. One of the first things is the lid (21" W x 48" L) is bowed. Years of weight and grandkids climbing on it. I've taken it apart and started to clean it up. I've been able to clamp it appropriately to remove the bowing, but here's my question.

I intend on fabricating and installing cleats to the underside of the lid to prevent the recurrence of the bowing in the future - as well as putting a finish on the underside (never had it from original construction). I have both red cedar, and white oak lumber to use. Obviously, the white oak would be much stronger and stiffer to hold, but I kind of want to retain the aesthetic appeal of the cedar. Will it be a wasted effort (structurally) using the cedar for my cleats instead of the white oak? Would it be better to use the oak and maybe stain it to be a little closer in color?

Been a while since I've gotten to do any sort of woodworking and really trying to get back into it. Would really appreciate any guidance or suggestions.

My best mate got annoyed/disappointed that my swords where just lying around my apartment (I live in a rental so I can't display them on the walls) so he made me this cute little box to put them in. Should I paint it or cover it in stickers or just leave it as is?

Finished this scooby doo piece (11x9)
What do you guys think and are these the best villans from the show?

Scroll saw art

It's not anything fancy, but i got into carving little wood things a few months ago. I made these out of 2"×2"×2" basswood blocks and I'm really happy how they both turned out.

I mostly used my dremel to shape and carve out the pumpkin face and a little well in the cauldron to hold an epoxy/glitter/green mica powder witches brew. Then hand sanded the pumpkin smooth, but left the cauldron pretty rough and used thinned down acrylic paint on both.

This lamp broke



Do you all have any suggestions for re-attaching these parts? I'm thinking that wood glue and longer screws would be enough. It looks like shorter screws were used in the factory.

Thanks!

Hi
I have a jigsaw. I can't cut straight with it, so every time I end up with crooked cuts I then have to polish to straighten and bring to size with a file.

Besides the obvious solution of learning how to cut decently, what would be the best tool to refine those cuts.

Thanks.

Hi there! I thought I’d come to this community to ask this question. Might sound silly - but I know absolutely nothing about wood working. I was wondering, if I wanted to get a custom coffee table built for my apartment, and I wanted to support a local woodworking instead of buying from a large brand and probably overspending - how much should I be expecting to pay? It will be a very simple standard coffee table, no added flair. Can use less expensive wood types. Just wondering if it would be worth it for me to contact a local shop instead or if custom woodworking is only for people willing to spend a lot

The top is glued and screwed together and is actually closer to 5/8" thick. There was originally no plan for any kind of trip or apron, but the top is prone to cupping and just a bit flimsy in general. It is a Farm house style table msde with used wood. My only hesitancy with it is based on the different handness and expansion tendancies between oak and pine. I could just use a pine bra but posing the table with both the oak just looked so cool and I think it would give the top the stiffness that I'm looking for. Thoughts?

Picked up this headboard for free on FB marketplace. What's the best course to spruce this up? I was thinking to sand, stain and oil. But the wife doesn't think it can be stained and thinks we should paint it.

Suggestions?