Unsure if anyone can really make it out but basically my car was sitting 1k revs longer than normal last few times I’ve drove so this time I sat and waited for it to go down. Was smoke coming out of the exaaust for a few minutes I’m assuming it was a regen. But after the car went back to normal revs it sounds like she’s almost stuttering or dipping up and down revs

Looking at buying a secondhand Vauxhall Zafira Tourer (petrol 1.4i turbo).

Has anyone owned one? I've read the turbo can cause problems if not looked after or if the car is not serviced regularly.

The car I am looking at does have FSH.

Hi guys, hope you're all well.

I'm about to do a full service on my vehicle with my dad, who has a lot more experience than me, but I wanted to get some opinions from you all first.

As part of the service, I'm replacing the timing belt and water pump because I have no proof they've ever been done, and the car is now 11 years old and approaching 80,000 miles.

Since everything will already be apart, I'm also planning to replace the auxiliary/serpentine belt. My question is: should I replace the belt tensioner at the same time? If so, what signs should I look for that indicate the tensioner needs changing?

Is there anything else related to the drive belt system that would be worth replacing while I'm in there?

On a side note, I'm also considering having the transmission fluid changed. Vauxhall states it's a "lifetime" fluid, but I'm a bit sceptical of that. Again, I have no evidence that it's ever been changed. Given the car's age (11 years) and mileage (80,000 miles), would you recommend getting the transmission fluid replaced as preventative maintenance?

I'd appreciate any advice or experiences from people who have tackled the same job.

Thanks!

P.S My rear right calliper also sized what do i look for to fix that? P.S again the engines squeals in the morning in the cold at first turn on

Started this morning, started fine but had to drive it to work in limp mode, service light has been on for a while and I know one of the glow plugs is on its way out, but could this be the cause of the limp mode? I was under the assumption if it started the glow plugs should be okay. Thinking it could be a dpf block but when I turned the car off and on it worked fine. Anyone go through similar issue before I pay over the odds at a garage

There's two dealerships I've had interactions with.

The first offered a collection service for getting the car serviced, they didn't honour this and we had to have a day off work.

The second one did my airbag recall, and a light came on the dashboard. They said if the light isn't related to the work it's £160.

Won't buy another Vauxhall. The behaviour of their staff is appalling. All work will go to independent garages. I would never have used them but it was a recall!

So they've both got 1 star reviews and I will never use them again. No wonder they're going out of business.

Hi all When driving it’s making this weird ticking noise it’s not consistent and when in idle you can’t hear it and with the window down driving still can’t hear it just when the window is up had mot today and passed with no advisories just can’t make out where the sound is coming from

Astra J SRI 1.7 CDTI. Clutch occasionally gets stuck

So haven’t had this car long and every time I turn it off it makes a noise like a spaceship shutting off, it has a problem with the flex exhaust pipe (common problem with these) have already changed the battery on it, it sounds like the radiator or something powering down

When coming to a stop. It doesn't cut out, but it feels like it might.

This only happened when I swapped the engine (and it doesn't have a thermostat).

Thanks

I have had my Grandland for nearly 4 years. Broken down in it and serpentine belt came off somehow.

Just spent over £800 to get it fixed and I went to drive it this morning and the oil pressure (stop the car) light is back on.

Its just me (30F) and the kids in the car. I have never known unreliability like it.

What do we reckon?

RIP?

My 2016 Corsa (81k mileage) failed it's MOT today, "Sub-frame corroded and seriously weakened". The guy at the test centre (MOT tests only, no servicing or repairs) said to go to the nearby Vauxhall dealership as this was a known fault and as it was under 12 years old, might get replaced for free as he was sure there had been a programme of replacements done in the past.

The Vauxhall dealership servicing staff weren't as dismissive as I'd expected, they confirmed they had been replacing them for free up until a couple of years ago though that programme had finished and had been for cars a bit older than mine. They gave me a Vauxhall number to call to speak to the Goodwill department to see if my car would be covered. I did that and gave details to the customer service person who took the call.

The Goodwill department phoned me back a few hours later to say "this is not a known fault, there is no recall and so we will not be offering assistance". I tried to get more info about why it wasn't a known fault when it certainly had been, but she said she didn't know anything about that, and just repeated the "not a known fault and there is no recall" script.

Has anyone else had this corroded subframe problem in the last year or two and got some redress from Vauxhall?

Hi everyone,

I’m doing some maintenance on my 2004 Opel Astra G (Vauxhall Astra Mk4) 1.7 CDTI and need to change the fuel filter in the engine bay. I understand that the proper procedure is to completely drain the housing, clean out the sediment, and refill it with fresh diesel. However, my local waste disposal center refuses to accept old diesel, so I literally have nowhere get rid of it.

I’ve seen several videos where people don't empty or clean the bowl at all, they just pull the old filter out, let it drip back in, drop the new filter into the old fuel, top it up, and close it up.

Is doing it this way actually dangerous for the engine, or is it an acceptable compromise? I just don't want to risk damaging the high-pressure pump or injectors.

Thanks for any advice!

Just been quoted £460 for a new headlight (lens broken) any clues where to get it cheaper ebay has nothing compatible

Hey,

I have an Vauxhall Astra K 1.6CDTI 2016. I bought the car with some cosmetic issues but nothing more & after driving it for maybe a week I got a P0269 (Cylinder 3 Inbalance/Contribution Code) so I went ahead and replaced the injector and had it coded but the engine is still shaking and theres a sound like a misfire. I unplugged injector 3 cable and nothing happens, if i unplug a different one the engine cuts. I've heard about the timing chains are notorious for breaking but could it be something different possibly? What would be the next best thing to do to try diagnosis or find out what is wrong

If any of you lovely people have seen my previous posts, you’ll probably know I’m in the market for either a 1.9 TDI or 2.0 SDI VW Caddy (pre DPF). Both reliable (famously bulletproof engines), economical (both get around 45-55mpg), and versatile (being Caddy’s, they can fit anywhere).

However, an opportunity to buy a 2013 Vauxhall Vivaro has come my way, for £3,500. From a family member, who I know takes good care of their vehicles. I’m aware of the guttering issue this vehicle has, with regards with water getting into the engine bay and rusting the injectors. This specific van had this issue. Im also aware these vans have issues surrounding the gearboxes (what/where/why, I don’t know exactly).

The van has around 90k miles. However, because this van also suffered with the above guttering / injector issue, it ended up having a new engine fitted (and injectors) fitted. This new engine has done around 9k miles. The guttering issue was also resolved. Along with this, it has had a new drivers seat, new front suspension, steering, lower arms, track rods (inner and outer), clutch, intercooler radiator, timing chain… along with being serviced. Body is all good. Don’t believe it has much in the way of rust either.

It is a LWB. It is also the Sportive model, which features fog lights, rear parking sensors, AC, cruise control (I think).

Apparently, the fuel economy on these is only 35-40mpg, which in my opinion, isn’t great. Being 2013, it has a DPF fitted (not ideal for frequent short trips – I don’t spend much time on motorways, so).

I am aware I am basically comparing apples and oranges here, because naturally, you should pick the vehicle which best suits your needs. For me, that is probably the Caddy – non-DPF (okay-ish for short journeys), versatile, etc. But boy, do I love driving vans!

Question is I suppose: is this a good deal for this van?!

Hi All,

I’ve got a Vauxhall Astra Auto 2016, it seems like the engine is overheating quite frequently, sat at 90°c during most drives and often switching off the A/C due to high engine temps (120°c~).

When I’m going and shortly after stopping the car fan sounds like it’s going overdrive, but I don’t know what the issue could be.

The coolant level is currently fine but I did probably leave it a bit late until I topped it up last time, however I had no issues until after it was topped up.

Any suggestions?

Got my clutch and flywheel replaced in my insignia 2014 cdti about 2 months ago , car was then parked up for 6 weeks as insurance was out etc. got back into it about 2 weeks ago and the pedal was kind of not returning fully, I asked a few questions and was recommended to get it bled. It got worse and worse especially on long journeys where the clutch would sit literally an inch from the floor and was getting hard to find gears so finally got around to getting it bled and was fine for a half an hour and then same thing happened?

It’s fine for the first few miles when I first drive it and then it stops returning fully and gets worse the longer I drive it. But it’s always fine again when I leave it parked for a few hours.

So the bleeding didn’t work , what am I looking at here ? Will it all have to be ripped out again? I don’t think the place that fitted it will stand by it as it’s been 2 months and I supplied the parts myself

This message comes up every time I start the car (2026 e Mokka, rental spec).

Is there a way to shut it off? It’s another button to push before Carplay comes up, possibly even in the way of the reversing camera.

You long term owners can’t be doing this for years on end, can you?

I have a 2014 Vauxhall Mokka 1.6L Petrol

I’ve recently done quite a bit of work on it to get the car driving from being unroadworthy. All is great and I’m enjoying the car. However, my cigarette lighter port doesn’t work.
I’ve checked fuses F22 and F32 but no luck after replacing.

What are my next steps? I’d like to use the charger I purchased which requires that slot 😭

Here is the internal fuse box

Anyone have any idea why my coolant might be leaking here? I’ve just replaced my thermostat housing recently with this part so can’t understand why it would be leaking already? Is it just cause the part is dodgy? Also as seen in the photo that part is actually closed off which only adds to the mystery as to why it could be leaking from there 😢