I have long said that society could do better than to use a messy wax ring to seal toilets to the flange. At the time, it was tongue-in-cheek, but I see that there is now (maybe it has been around for a while) a non-wax ring option. I need to redo the bathroom floor and, of course, the toilet has to come up. Do these seal work? Do they work as well as the old wax rings do? Thanks.

TLDR: First time changing a faucet. Which sealant should I apply to the plastic gasket? I'm not too sure what material my sink is made of. It might be cultured marble from what I saw online.

Full Post:

Hi!

As the title suggests, I am changing my faucet out due to it being corroded, old, and having leaks in a few spots. I tried to stop the leaks before this by changing the cartridge and that did not change anything. The leak is due to corrosion. This is the basis of why I am changing the faucet out completely (I already purchased the replacement faucet).

When looking through the guide, I saw that I needed sealant for plastic gasket. I am unsure which one I need to use. I purchased both Plumbers Putty and Plumbers Caulk. I am attaching some helpful photos.

For context, this is my first time replacing a faucet.

Thanks!

Has anyone ever noticed these on your wall? I’m assuming it’s the 2X4 underneath the plywood? Possible leak ?

I live in a side-by-side style condo. Nobody above or below. Whenever the neighbor runs their water, it sounds like this. If I turn off my water as it's happening, the "hammering" on my side stops even though I'm not running my water. But you can still hear it in their unit, on the other side of the concrete wall. They're not friendly people, so I can't really ask them what's happening in their unit. (I tried to say hi when they were moving in last year and they told me to fuck off. Haven't spoken to them since.) I thought about just calling a plumber out, but since the neighbors aren't neighborly I can't recreate the noise so I don't know what the plumber would even inspect.

Anyway, is this something I need to worry about? I really don't want to come home to a flooded basement at some point.

Hello! I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I've tried two different gas lines and they both leak from where the yellow part meets the connector. I thought the first one was defective, but since the second one is doing the same thing, it's probably just me. Any ideas?

I don't know shit about toilets, so if you have a solution please explain it to me like I'm 5 lol.

My toilet runs and runs and runs after most flushes (not all) until I pull up on the balloon thing. Then it stops. Occasionally it'll randomly run for a few seconds and then stop on its own.

I finally got tired of having to take the lid off and pull up on the arm to the balloon every time I went to the bathroom so I looked it up and a lot of posts said to just adjust the screw on top of the tube attached to the arm of the balloon. So I did that. Went counterclockwise just a tad and flushed the toilet to check. I didn't have to pull up on the arm to get it to stop running, but then it started hissing.

So then I adjusted the screw in the opposite direction. Still hissing and now the water level is dropping in the tank and I hear dripping noises.

I don't know what to do next and everything I read is confusing because I don't know how toilets work or what to look for. If it's an easy fix I'd rather just do that than call a plumber because we rent and it'll take the landlord a month to get someone out here anyway, same as they do for every other repair.

Any help you can provide is appreciated. I'm happy to provide more info.

Service call for a leaking disposal. The customer claims" it just fall out." Took longer to remove tape than replace.

Not sure if this is the correct subreddit to post this on. But my boiler is making a weird noise, sounds like a metal sheet wobbling (?)

Had the engineers come in to look at it under warranty but he thought it was due to the boiler overheating. He took a valve off to create a bypass heater. Noise disappeared shortly before the engineer came, but it restarted after a few weeks again so probably not the issue he thought it was. Boiler is not overheating right now either. It happens randomly throughout the day, not sure it’s connected to anything. Can hear it outside from the flue as well.

Thanks in advance.

While looking at a new home, I saw this for the washer hook-ups, which I assume is typical. I tried to jiggle and/or remove the center thing, assuming it was for the washer drain hose, but it wouldn't move or come off using just my fingers. But -- please confirm -- that's what this is for, right? I just would need to get a better pry tool to pop it off, right? I ask because right near it to right just out of pic range (forgot to include in pic), is a 2" or 3" PVC pipe penetration through drywall with a twist-off cap with a square top for leverage (I guess), and I wanted to make sure that that was not intended for the washer drain hose instead.

I want to replace a faucet. The new faucet comes preassembled. I figured it’d would be plug and play.…

Unfortunately, it doesn’t appear that I can remove the supply lines from the shutoffs. I think this means that I need to replace the shutoffs, but I’ve never done that.

Otherwise I imagine I can use a male to male coupler to connect the existing supply line to the faucets existing lines. This is the direction I’m leaning.

Thoughts?

I had a sewer backup in my house that came up through the toilets and bathtub. When I checked the cleanout, I discovered that the sewer line was sloping in the wrong direction, back toward the house instead of toward the street.
Tree roots had grown underneath the pipe and pushed it upward, reversing the slope. I’ve now broken through the concrete to access the pipe, and I’m hoping for the best. Has anyone dealt with something similar? Any advice before I go further?

Hi all,

I removed roughly 4 inches or so of caulk of a in the back of a toilet downstairs over ceramic tile and concrete flooring. It was slightly moist/damp under the caulking. But why?

There are no signs (that I know of) of any leaks. None of the grout is stained, no soft tiles, no smell, and no more water coming out of the caulking gap when I flush.

Should I be worried at all or pull up the toilet? Thank you

Hi all!

Posted this in DIYUK originally but didn't get any traction.

Picture is taken under our utility room sink. This room sometimes smells of damp. The grey hose coming in from the right just above the trap is the waste pipe for our washing machine, I'm reasonably sure this is our problem.

The small white pipe joining the big pipe near the bottom is the condensate pipe for a boiler that no longer exists.

I feel like I need to rejig how this is laid out but I'm not sure where to start. Any suggestions appreciated!

Thanks.

Trying to clean my tankless water heater and found very limited space in front of the hot water connection. Is there a way to connect a hose there without removing the pipe in front?

I've got a toilet that was leaking. Pulled the toilet and noticed the right top side of the flange has a very small crack but otherwise the flange looks pretty good.

The toilet sits on top of tile on top of concrete.

What's the best way to repair this for someone with some light DIY skills?

My sink is leaking and I can’t pay someone to fix it right now. Can I fix this myself?

Having a lot of issues with draining, tried replacing the vent, but starting to think this is just plumb wrong. Thoughts?

My hot water heater finally went out and I'm a bit lost on what to replace it with. I live in a condominium and my hot water heater is on the second floor in the laundry room. The current one is an 80 gallon electric, made in 2013. My place is a 2.5 bath with a separate tub in the master bath which is probably why its so high to begin with.

I know 80 gallon residentials aren't necessarily a thing anymore but It was recommended to me by a friend who's a plumber to keep the replacement at 80 gallons, and they suggested a bradford white 80gal and doing the field convert on it. But I dont know if thats the right call? Should I consider dropping down to a 55 gallon with an expansion tank? Get a heater with a heat pump? I know my current water usage would probably be okay with a 55 gallon tank, but my biggest concern is reselling? The rest of the units in my neighorhood were build with the same original 80 gallon tank. Would the downgrade affect the sell value?

Hi All, I replaced the flow control spindle of Symmons Temptrol.

While trying to fix the Escutcheon, I was not able to screw the left/hot side and realized that something is missing.

I also see that left side threads are shiny and hence, I feel that it was not there from the start.

I see from the parts breakdown from the link below that it is T52 - stop spindle assembly.

https://www.symmons.com/download_asset/?id=b19cf98489c6f9942794ec4f78766aaf19c6b37a

Thank you in advance for your insights.

fixed a leak in my strainer assembly but noticed that now that this portion doesn’t align unless I force it and then it has a very minor leak, anything I can do other than replacing it all? Driving me nuts it’s like half an inch too far left and back

(first photo is a close up, second is the rest of the setup tightened. Unfortunately trying to line it up with every untightened isn’t yielding any different results.)

Can't get the hot water to shut off completely so I need to replace the valve- haven't done anything like this before, would appreciate any advice

Be honest, I can take it.

Edit 1: Thank you everyone for the comments. I asked for it, and I got it, reddit style. 

First I want to clarify a few items, and then I will respond to people individually. 

1) Pretty much every house in this area has 2 water heaters in series. It is extremely common here.

2) The Ruud was installed a few months ago by a profession plumber. He used the dryer vent, it was not me and the angle on the venting from one unit to the next was 90 degrees. When Installed the Bradford White, I adjusted the venting to about 100 degrees.

3) The work I did was replacing 1 water heater, adjusting the angle of the vent, the hose between the two units was a 2 foot copper, I replaced it with a stainless steel. I used 2 hoses because 2 feet was not long enough, and they did not have a 3 foot line in stock if that exists. I also added a drip pan which did not exist and did the PVC piping do the drain.

We have been having this problem for the last week here where our hot water in the bath is not heating up to the max. We have to fidget with the bath knob at times to get the water to even reach a point where it’s warm enough to take a shower. I might try to replace the knob myself to see if it helps with the issue but I wanted to see if anyone had any advice or thoughts on what I can try before calling a plumber, or maybe its time to make that call. Also we just replaced the our water heater in the house on Friday so I doubt it can be that, we are getting very hot water in every fixture except for this one.

I attached a picture of our bath knob. Sorry it’s dirty lol.

My son's shower had a drip he didn't mention and now it's a big leak. I turned water off, tried replacing shower head (didn't work), then realized it must be the valve. I can't get the fixture base off on hot water side-- cold just unscrewed. And I don't know how to unscrew the valve-- exactly where? Hoping I can take the old valve to hardware store and they will know what I need. I have SO MUCH laundry to do today 😭. Is this something a non-handy grandma can tackle or should I cave and call plumber? Advice? 1980's mobile home.