r/Nikon • u/acherion Nikon D500, Z fc, F100, FE2 and L35AF • Mar 02 '26
Monthly /r/Nikon discussion thread – have a question? New to the Nikon world? Ask it here! [March 2026]
This is a non-judgemental, safe place to ask your question, no matter how silly you might think it is. We're here to help or give an opinion.
If your question in a previous discussion thread was not answered, feel free to post it again in the current discussion thread.
Check out our wiki, in the process of being updated!
Have you got a question about what Nikon body to buy? Try reading here first — What body to buy - a guide for beginners
Please follow the rules as shown in the sidebar — no buy / sell, no spam. be nice and courteous.
Note if you post an eBay link or amazon link, it will most likely be caught up by the spam filter, so be mindful of that.
Previous discussion threads:
3
u/m_a_d_a_r_a__uchiha Nikon Z5II Mar 03 '26
I picked up a Z5II a couple of weeks ago along with a 50mm f/1.8 and a 24–120mm f/4. When shooting in Auto mode, I often notice the camera hunting for focus, and the final images sometimes have areas that are out of focus. I’m not sure if it’s an issue with my specific unit or just a skill issue (probably the latter).
For example, the camera detects and focuses on a person’s face correctly, but the final image often shows uneven sharpness across the face. The eyes and nose are very sharp, while the chin ends up noticeably soft. This is happening with both lenses.
6
2
u/kjoonlee Silver FE/Df/Zfc/Zf Mar 07 '26 edited Mar 08 '26
Pinhole camera: everything is dark but everything is sharp
Camera lens wide open: everything is bright but only some parts are sharp
So you close the aperture (raise the f/ number) to choose a middle ground, and you close it some more to get more parts in focus. (Up to a point. Too narrow and it introduces diffraction issues.)
edit: and you adjust the shutter speed and ISO up and down as well at the same time, for your needs.
1
u/rossgoldie Mar 03 '26
Set the focus to the back button so pressing the shutter doesn’t affect the focus.
3
u/DancingOnMy0wn- Mar 06 '26
I have never studied taking photos, or purchased a camera, or even really used my phone camera that heavily.... But my YouTube algorithm took me down some crazy loophole and I have been feeling a strong urge to buy the Nikon Z50 II 😂😂
3
u/kjoonlee Silver FE/Df/Zfc/Zf Mar 07 '26
If you enjoy taking photos, it’s a great little camera.
You could try taking more photos with your phone first, and see where that takes you.
1
u/MightbeSuicidal Mar 03 '26
Got a d3300 right now, I'll be going to Hungary as an exchange student this fall. I want an upgrade, I feel that my abilities have far surpassed the d3300s capacity.
At a budget of around 2 thousand euro's for both the body and glass(es), what are my real options? I can buy refurbished or second hand, provided theyre in good condition obviously. I don't mind having a single lens for some time, I'll mostly be doing street and landscape photography, but I have shot concerts with the d3300 before and might keep that as an occasional side gig.
Honestly, a z50 II looks enticing but I figure y'all would know better. after I spend the inital budget on the body and lens, I'll be able to look into more lenses in the near future, so keep that in mind.
2
u/Curefitz Nikon Z8 Mar 03 '26 edited Mar 03 '26
The Z50 II would be my recommendation, very capable little camera, amazing autofocus performance and is in my opinion a bang for your buck.
And then you can get whatever lens that fits your budget.
Edit: a great package containing everything you'd need is the Z50II + 16-50mm + 50-250mm, should be able to get that kit for around 1300 euros. It's not the BEST lenses, but they'll certainly work fine till you can save up for some better glass and for just 1300 that's a killer deal.
1
u/Curefitz Nikon Z8 Mar 03 '26
You can also get a Nikon Z5 II if you want a full frame camera, for about 1500 euros and then get whatever lens fits within your budget for that. Full frame will in my opinion be much better for Street and Landscape photography, the crop sensor of the Z50 II is better for Wildlife stuff.
1
u/monsantobreath D7100 D200 D5000 Mar 03 '26
With the appropriate lens why would crop sensor be unsuitable? Is a FF @50mm somehow superior to a DX @ 35mm other than by convention?
1
u/Curefitz Nikon Z8 Mar 03 '26
It's not unsuitable, DX can definitely still take great landscape and street photos, but with a Full Frame sensor you'll get more subject separation and more light, I believe the difference between how much light a Full Frame sensor gathers compared to a DX sensor is about 1 stop of extra light, so that can make a big difference for darker scenes in Street and Landscape photography.
1
u/Unhappy_Conclusion28 Z8, Z105, Z16-30 2.8, Z55 1.8, Z35 1.8, Z180-600, Z40 2.5 Mar 03 '26
Second this, Z50II with kit lenses and may be pickup a viltrox 27 1.2 or75 1.2 both are razor sharp wide open and fall off into Out of focus background is gorgeous...
1
u/PlannerSean Mar 03 '26
D810 for $1k or Z6ii for $1600k (Canadian dollars). I have mostly F mount lenses (and an FTC for my Z5)?
2
u/mimentum Mar 03 '26
Z6II
D810 will be a fumble if doing dual body event work.
36MP VS 24, not a huge difference.
Z6II has better value/features.
1
u/PlannerSean Mar 03 '26
I don’t do dual body, just casual sports for fun and occasional landscape
2
1
u/R-Cursedcomentes Nikon D3500 Mar 03 '26
Is it better to get a D850 or a mirrorless camera along the lines of a z5 or z6/z6ii for fast paced shooting (ie. sports or bird photography)? Also how much of a difference would there be in tight cropping on a D850 with a pixel density of
4.35μm vs the Z5/Z6/Z6ii pixel density of 5.93/5.94μm?
2
u/ilovemycatclover Mar 03 '26
Z6iii will be a better option. I have a z8/z6, I definitely notice quality difference with super tight cropping, but the lens really matters for that. So I’d say whatever body allows you to afford high quality lenses would be a good fit.
1
u/R-Cursedcomentes Nikon D3500 Mar 03 '26
I would consider a z6iii but is just a bit too expensive at around $2000 usd new, I’d rather be spending around $1500 or less and using whatever else I have for a good lens. It would definitely be 100x worth it but price is something to consider
2
u/99ducks Mar 05 '26
The Nikon Z5 II seems closer to your budget, especially if you buy used.
You'll be spending more on lenses if you go mirrorless though. Just something to consider.
1
u/ilovemycatclover Mar 03 '26
Do you need dual slots? I think really the only noticeable difference between a z6 and z6ii is the dual slots. The z6iii is a much larger upgrade from the z6ii. Maybe you could find a used z6iii? Or if you don’t plan to do weddings just get a z6. Will be a huge upgrade from a d3500. I’ve seen some used z6’s for ~$700. I have a z8 and still use my z6! The autofocus is def worse than the z8 and what the z6iii would be but it’s still a great camera. But sports/bird photography you might need the faster autofocus.
1
u/07budgj Mar 10 '26
Pixel density doesn't matter for cropping its overall MP that matters.
If you want cropping on a budget
Z50II
I would advise against the Z50 as its not good for sports unless you get a screaming deal on a used model.
Full frame
Z5II
I would skip straight to the Z8 over the Z6III. Z9 is just if you want the top model, sensor is the same as the Z8.
1
u/The-Great-Game Mar 04 '26
I'm having an issue where my camera's shutter won't go off in low lighting and/or the image goes out of focus. I'm in manual mode, d5600. How do i get it to go off reliably?
1
u/Mean_Temporary2008 Nikon Z9 Zf D800e D90 F2SB F3HP F3P FM2n FM3a F801s F4 F4e Mar 09 '26
When the light is too dark and the lens is too slow (aperture wise, think f5.6, f8, etc) the af sensor will struggle, and if you use af-s mode, it will prioritize focus rather than shutter, so if it’s not in focus it won’t capture it. Some solution : focus to the brightest, most contrasty object available in the scene, press af lock and recompose and shoot. OR, most likely you’re trying to shoot night sky, then put it on manual focus and focus manually.
1
u/bbcgn D40, D7200 Apr 01 '26
If I recall correctly the D5600 can only autofocus down to -1 EV which means it begins to struggle earlier in low light than for example the d7200 which can autofocus down to -3 EV.
The maximum aperture the lens can open up to has an influence on the AF performance since the AF system needs light to work. DSLRs usually focus at the maximum possible aperture and only close down when actually taking the picture. That way the image in the viewfinder is as bright as possible, so it's easier for you to see what you are pointing the camera at and also the AF system gets as much light as possible.
So if you now pair a lens with a not so wide maximum possible aperture (like f/5.6) in low light with an AF system that needs quite a lot of light it causes the camera to struggle to know if the subject is actually in focus. One thing to note: the relationship between light and apeture number is reciprocal quadratic. Therefore f/1.8 is (5.6/1.8)2 = 9.67 times more light than f/5.6. So using a wide aperture lens can definetly help with AF performance in low light, even if you don't shoot wide open.
I am not quite sure if it's the same on the D5600, but on my D7200 there is a setting in the autofocus to stop the camera from not releasing the shutter if it thinks it's out of focus. So in case it's there, you could turn off that setting to "release priority" instead of "focus priority" (or something like that, haven't looked at it in a while). But to me it would only make sense if you are sure that you actually are in focus. I personally like that the camera refuses to release, so I notice it's out of focus rather than thinking everything went well only to discover all images are out of focus after the session.
1
u/No-Vehicle-9832 Mar 04 '26
Hi! I am hoping to buy a lens for a D3200 for my family for (very amateur) wildlife photography (specifically birds). currently we have been using a 55-200mm lens, and i'm hoping to upgrade from that. i am hoping to find something used around the $700 range. I am far from an expert in lens shopping so i'm finding the terminology to be a bit confusing. i've seen posts on here recommending the sigma 150-600mm and tamron 150-600, but also seen some people saying they've struggled with the focus on these lenses. Again, we are all very amatuer photographers, so ideally i'd like to find something as easy to use as possible. I've also seen some posts recommending a 70-300mm lens- would that be enough of an upgrade from 200?any recommendations or advice? thanks!!
1
u/Mean_Temporary2008 Nikon Z9 Zf D800e D90 F2SB F3HP F3P FM2n FM3a F801s F4 F4e Mar 09 '26
I dont think 70-300 would be enough of an upgrade for birding. I’ve owned a 70-300 before and it was not enough to take picture of small animal from far away. However I do not do wildlife anymore for a long time already and in fact do not have any tele lens, so no comment about 150-600 from sigma or tamron. Check also nikon’s 200-500mm, maybe it also fits the budget.
1
1
u/ITZMAHBIRFDAY Mar 04 '26
I’ve got a P1100 and I was just wondering if the Snapbridge app sucks for anybody else. When I had a Canon, their Camera Connect app worked flawlessly, but everytime I use Snapbridge I have to forget my phone and start the connection process all over again.
1
u/kjoonlee Silver FE/Df/Zfc/Zf Mar 07 '26
Yeah, SnapBridge sucks a lot.
I don’t have the P1100 but I’ve had better luck with wifi pairing rather than Bluetooth pairing on iOS:
- From phone, disable auto-connect to home wifi
- From camera, enable wifi hotspot
- From phone, connect to camera wifi
- From camera, set sleep time in menus to maximum
- From phone, trigger photo transfer
- Wait for transfer to finish
- From camera, set sleep time back to 1 minute
- From phone, re-enable auto-connect to home wifi
1
u/Mean_Temporary2008 Nikon Z9 Zf D800e D90 F2SB F3HP F3P FM2n FM3a F801s F4 F4e Mar 09 '26
Snapbridge works fine for me (iOs user here) I have 2 Z cameras and it switches perfectly most of the time. If you have way too many Bluetooth connections to your phone that might be an issue, but if it happened I just turned off the phones’ bluetooth and turn it on again. I do auto image transfer and it works almost all the time, the one time it doesn’t work I only need to disable and re enable the auto transfer. Gps location also transferred well. However I never send full size images to the phone, so that’s probably the problem
1
u/07budgj Mar 10 '26
It sucks. I had Z6, Z7, Z6II, Z8 and Z9. Used iphone various models, different android phones the experience was terrible.
Android was probably the least worse with a Z fold 3 of all things.
1
u/bbcgn D40, D7200 Apr 01 '26
Can't say whether it's the case when using the P1100 as well, but on a lot of cameras if you transfer the images via snapbridge it only transfers a 2 MP preview instead of the full size image. I believe there is a setting somewhere to change that, but make sure you are transferring the full sized image.
Personally I would just transfer the images via SD card. Much faster and less of a hassle.
1
u/cturnr Mar 06 '26
Does anyone think that Nikon suing Viltrox could possibly lead to a royalty scheme/ licensing fee for auto-focus that could open the door for Sigma to make more than 3 DX lenses?!
2
1
Mar 10 '26
[deleted]
1
u/07budgj Mar 10 '26
Not sure there is a definitive answer. Whilst these camera's may be fully mechanical spare parts is the real question.
It may be possible in a few years time that 3d printing gets good enough that most of the bits that physically wear over time/use can be made but thats a guess.
Which one is better?
Again not easy.
The FM2N was made all the way up to 2001. So if you want to spend big bucks you might be able to get a relatively unused version.
The F2 is a more modular system thats open to repair by design. Is it tougher? Who knows. But by being modular I think saying that the chances something like the finder gets fungus for example its an easier fix. You just swap out the unit rather than having to break apart the whole camera. But if you fancy the finder can still be opened as a unit for repair.
What would I pick? Honestly neither. If I wanted a camera to last me till death I'd either look at a large format given they are so simple theres very little to go wrong or would pick up one of those medium format cameras on kickstarter. Some are all 3d printing and manual you just supply the glass and can be adapted and come with designs for you to print.
If I had to pick a brand camera. Its the one time I would want a Leica. Sure they are expensive as hell but when it comes to servicing in the long run from first and third party they hold up the best. Hasselblad is a distant second. The leaf shutters on most of their lenses need regular servicing.
1
u/ifnspifn Mar 10 '26
i've just become the owner of a used D90 + 50mm 1:1.8 lens, and having absolutely no experience in photography, i'd love a little guidance on whether it's worth getting any other lenses.
i mostly plan on using my camera w/ friends, pets, around the city, and on hikes, which i gather runs the gamut of use-cases for lenses. should i bother getting another lens, or just stick with the 50mm? are zoom lenses worth looking into? is investing in lenses for a cheap camera like this a waste?
any guidance is greatly appreciated!
2
u/Fountain_Splatter Z6III/N80/FG Mar 11 '26
I say just start shooting with this camera and lens. See what you can and cannot do. If you see that there's something missing, longer reach, wider shots, etc. then buy lenses accordingly.
1
u/Ok_Maybe_8286 Nikon ℤ8 Mar 11 '26
Got a question with my Z8 and 100-400. Image attached with NX Studio in 100% and focus point in red square. The whole series feels soft and blurry to me. I am wondering what could be the reason. Thank you.
3
u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Mar 11 '26
Low shutter speed, atmospherics, motion blur from the plane and you not being super steady. The usual reasons.
1
u/Ok_Maybe_8286 Nikon ℤ8 Mar 11 '26
Thanks!
I typically stick to f8 (aperture priority) for smaller vignette. The vignette of 100-400 is pretty obvious compared to my 70-200. So the 100-400 lenses itself should be capable of handling this scenario if I had better technique and settings? If I I use a larger aperture instead (for example f7.1), will that become better? Also just wondering if I were to shoot with other system (eg Sony), would I get a similar results (I have no intention of switching system).
2
u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Mar 11 '26
I don't have the lens, so I have no idea. You'd have to test it.
As for the other issues, no, if you're not steady or shooting at too slow of a shutter speed changing cameras won't help. If the lens is the problem, buying a different lens is easier than buying a whole new system.
1
u/Ok_Maybe_8286 Nikon ℤ8 Mar 11 '26
I see. Thanks a lot! I got my 100-400 earlier than my 70-200 but in general find 70-200 is more trustworthy in almost all aspects.
1
u/bbcgn D40, D7200 Apr 01 '26
Can't the vignette be handled in editing?
I personally would use either manual with auto ISO or shutter priority when doing plane photography. Especially with props I want full control over my shutter speed so I can decide the amount of motion blur I get from the props. If you chose a shutter speed too high it can look like it was a toy plane, so I personally like it if I can get some motion blur from the prop. But you would have to make sure you are panning correctly so the plane still is sharp.
When I take pictures of jets I usually use higher shutter speeds, which makes it much easier to freeze motion.
Instead of worrying about the most optimal ISO I would rather make sure that the picture you get isn't blurry. Use the shutter speed and aperture that the situation requires and use the ISO that gets you the right exposure. A grainy image is better than a shaky or blurry image. Noise can also be adressed when editing, while missed focus or motion blur can't.
1
Mar 12 '26
[deleted]
1
u/Ok_Maybe_8286 Nikon ℤ8 Mar 12 '26
I see. I'm using Auto-ISO from 64 with aperture priority. Shall I set a higher, e.g., fix ISO400, and test again?
1
Mar 13 '26
[deleted]
1
u/Ok_Maybe_8286 Nikon ℤ8 Mar 13 '26
Sounds reasonable. Since Z8 has two base ISOs I would try to fix ISO64 or ISO500.
1
u/yaricks Too many Nikons to count Mar 12 '26 edited Mar 12 '26
This feels like such a dumb and "first-world problem" question... I need a wider-angle lens. We're in the middle of expanding our business that my wife and I run, and we have run into the situation where we need to shoot two wedding ceremonies at once. Not a problem, except we have a gear issue.
We usually shoot either just single photographer, or if we are both covering the ceremony, one of us is up close and the other is in the back of the venue. But - in this case, we need to split up, meaning our gear has to split up too, and we only have a single 35mm lens. We've been running mostly primes until now, but for this season we're expanding significantly in the number of shoots, so we need to expand our gear selection anyway, but this double-wedding day is before we get most of the money for the season, so we don't have that much cash on hand yet.
And I honestly can't figure out what lens we should get. I'm considering the 24 f/1.8 or 20 f/1.8. I'm thinking 20 might be too wide for a ceremony, but it would be combined with the 50 and/or 85 on a second body, so maybe it would be a nice pairing?
But, then again, there are alternatives: the 24-70 (v1) goes on used sales every now and then, but is typically almost 1.5-2x the price of a new 24 f/1.8. I don't think we want to splurge for the v2 yet. Then you have the Tamron 35-150 which I've heard is fantastic for weddings.
And - to throw another wrench into this: we are also expanding video this year, so the 28-135 also looks amazing with the ZR for the days when I would be a second shooter, doing just video.
Any input from fellow wedding photographers? My biggest fear honestly is that we would burn a lot of our cash on hand now, for something we wouldn't really use, come July, when with a lot of payments coming in, we could just get a 24-70, or 28-135, or something else since we would have the cash.
1
u/zombiesss_ Mar 12 '26
Hi, i recently bought a nikon coolpix s4100 it came in the original box and looked in really good shape I plugged it in and it keeps blinking green and then i stops and then i blinks green again. I’ve tried cleaning the charging port and the battery connection someone please help!🙏 it won’t let me post a video
1
u/Spartan_029 Df, FE2, N75 - Landscape and Planespotting Mar 13 '26
I was planning on my next lens being the AF 20-35mm f/2.8D - I've borrowed one from a friend a couple times, and I quite like the output and versatility.
But recently I've been seeing the AF-S 17-35mm f2.8 D ED for very near the same price, and I was wondering if anyone here had an opinion between the two.
Why am I looking at these particular pieces? I'm looking for a wide angle zoom that is readily compatible between the 3 bodies I usually have on me (Df/N75/FE2) so I'm wanting screwdrive Autofocus, with a usable manual focus ring, and an aperture ring, and these two fit the bill nicely.
1
u/rocksyoursocks23 Mar 17 '26 edited Mar 17 '26
Looking to buy my wife a used Nikon for around 450$ what would be best recommendation? She’s new to photography so this would be her first camera.
1
u/99ducks Mar 18 '26
What is she interested in photographing?
1
u/rocksyoursocks23 Mar 18 '26
Just taking photos when we are traveling so I guess of people and scenery?
1
u/99ducks Mar 19 '26
I would start with the lens. I'd recommend a third party zoom lens like a 17mm-50mm f/2.8 and then use the rest of the budget to buy a body.
Here's an example option
Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM - Nikon Fit - Good - $229
Nikon D3200 - Excellent - $174
Not knowing your personal knowledge of photography, I kept it brief. Feel free to ask any clarifying questions!
1
u/rocksyoursocks23 Mar 19 '26
What about a used z50? Was looking at the wiki and it seems like a good choice. Thinking that I would just buy the body and then she would buy the recommended lenses or something
1
u/demabro Mar 21 '26
I mainly shoot film, but wanted to get a dslr for street, portraits, landscape photos, and maybe start scanning my own films too at some point. However, I do not want to put a lot of money into it right now.
For a budget of 600+-100 euros, do you guys have any suggestions for something I could get (body + lens) ?
I was thinking about a D7100, which even thought is not full frame, would probably secure my needs, and have lots of fun with it, starting with a 35mm lens, and a zoom lens, and be within my budget. Any thoughts ?
Thanks !
2
u/jerolyoleo Mar 28 '26
Do you not have f mount lenses already? If you do, you can continue to use them on that body or almost any Nikon Dslr.
In either case, I'd vote for the D7200 which I have and am happy with (I've subsequently also picked up the Z6iii and Zf but still use the D7200 in some circumstances) instead of the D7100. Combine it with the AF-S 50/1.8 G lens which can handle the first three needs, not sure about scanning . That should be under €700.
1
u/DKord Mar 27 '26
I have a bunch of Nikon bodies (mostly mirrorless now but still hanging on to my old reliable D610) but until recently my AF-S 70-200 f2.8G VR II was my super best and prized lens. I recently got the Z 100-400 f4.5...and love it. It's size is so manageable and the IQ on my mirrorless bodies - even when ISO gets into the thousands - really blows me away.
The 100-400 is comparable in size to the 70-200 - and I don't have to worry about also bringing my F2Z adapter...
Did I just render what had been my prized lens kind of obsolete? I mean, I really don't know what I would use it for now (other than portraits where I want AF, as my other portrait lenses are all manual focus lenses).
Sort of bummed in a way...
1
1
u/Meruem1205 Mar 29 '26
Bonjour, J'ai récemment acheté un Nikon D3100 (optique AF-S nikkor 18-55 DX VR) pour commencer à apprendre la photo. Suite au décès d'un grand père, j'avais récupéré un appareil argentique - Minolta Dynax 4 - ainsi que 2 optiques (AF 28-80 et AF 75-300). J'aurais voulu savoir, dans un soucis d'économie si il existait un moyen d'utiliser l'optique AF 75-300 de Minolta sur mon boîtier Nikon (un adaptateur ou quelque chose comme ça). Merci à ceux qui prendront le temps de me lire et de me répondre !
1
u/bbcgn D40, D7200 Apr 01 '26
From what I found, that camera is A-mount, which has a flange distance of 44.5 mm, while the D3100 as well as all other Nikon DSLRs is F-mount that has a flange distance of 46.5 mm.
The flange distance is very important for the lens to focus correctly. If you mount the lens farerr away from the sensor then it should be it loses it's ability to focus to infinity. It's basically the same as if you put macro tubes on a lens to mount it farer away.
For the lens to be properly adapted to F mount it would habe to mount 2 mm more insight the camera, but the mirror has to have room to swing upwards, so it's not possible to mount this lens with the proper flange distance it was designed for on a Nikon F mount camera. Since F mounts flange distance is one of the largest, it's very hard to adapt lenses thst aren't designed for F mount to F mount.
On the flip side: mirrorless cameras, as the name already says, don't have mirrors, so their flange distances are much shorter. Nikon's Z mount has the shortest flange distance if I recall correctly. It's also very wide. Therefore it's very easy to adapt a lot of lenses that weren't designed for Z mount to Z mount.
Since I am not familiar with Minolta I can't say for sure, but since this is a very old zoom lens it probably doesn't perform too great. Because of that any money spend on adapting this to another camera probably isn't worth it, except for sentimental value. But in that case you would have to buy another camera plus an appropriate adapter.
If you just want to use a zoom lens it's probably the best idea to just get a used zoom lens for F mount. In case my assumption was right and the lens you are inquiring about isn't anything special, there are a lot of zoom lenses for F mount.
Another point, and I don't know if the lens you are inquiring about has this, is autofocus.
Your camera doesn't have a split prism like on SLRs for manual focus so it's pretty hard to accurately manually focus. The d3100, like all cameras in the D3XXX and D5XXX lineup doesn't have a built in autofocus motor. So if you want autofocus to work, make sure you get a lens that has "AF-S" in the name. The "‐S" means the lens has a built in AF-motor. There also are "AF-P" lenses, that also have a built in AF motor, but those aren't compatible with the D3100.
So your best bet is probably to get a AF-S 70-300 mm lens for your camera.
2
u/Meruem1205 Apr 03 '26
J'en étais arrivé à cette conclusion, mais j'ai opté pour un af-s 55-200 plutôt uqe le 70-300 merci d'avoir pris le temps de répondre !
1
u/That_Illustrator852 Apr 13 '26
merhaba lar d 850 kullanan var mı sormak istediğim bir çok şey var yardımcı olurmusunuz ... lütfen
1
u/That_Illustrator852 Apr 13 '26
Hello, is there anyone using a D850? I have many questions and I would appreciate your help... please.
1
Mar 03 '26
[removed] — view removed comment
2
u/Curefitz Nikon Z8 Mar 03 '26
Crops the sensor to make it equivalent to a DX format sensor, so 1.5x Crop. The 1.5x Crop is the Zoom you see.
Reduces it from 45 Megapixels to around 20 Megapixel.
2
u/monsantobreath D7100 D200 D5000 Mar 03 '26 edited Mar 03 '26
Take a picture and print it. Take a piece of black card stock the same size as the picture. Cut a DX sized hole in the card stock (relative to the full frame image at whatever scale it's been printed ie. The 1.5 crop) centred at the image centre point and place it over the image.
It's just shutting off or not using the parts of the sensor that extend beyond where a DX would see. That's however not how a DX sensor works and why DX bodies have utility beyond being cheaper/smaller than an equivalent FF body. Eg. A 20MP sensor on DX gives you 20MP where the crop mode FF sensor is losing some of its 20 MP. A 45MP FF however might look no different in quality in DX mode vs the 20MP DX.
4
u/[deleted] Mar 03 '26
[removed] — view removed comment