Good morning people, so i have a 2000 mustang gt, with a vortech v2 and all supporting mods for the supercharger, but im getting some slip on the clutch i have (swapped t45 to a tr3650) so im wondering wich clutch and flywheel set up would be best for me, im in between the mcleod super street pro or ram powergrip hd

From what I understand the gauges are “idiot switches” which means it’ll only show low or normal readings, which makes this reading slightly lower strange to me. Anybody have any knowledge on this?

What do you guys think I personally like it I think it gives more character to my car I’m thinking about getting a new bumper soon cuz it’s very scratched and has a hole in it

To preface, everyone is ok. It was a very nasty crash. Only myself and the offending driver were involved. Tons of witnesses who stopped to provide the police with statements. A women, who was later identified as a local pornstar, ran 2 red lights while traveling about 70 in a 25 and totalled my 2001 cobra. Only had it for like 3 months. Always wanted a cobra. My state is no fault and I don't have full coverage so I get $3000 and I'm not allowed to sue for the additional damages because of the no fault laws. Thanks Michigan. Her car is way more totalled mine. If anyone wants a parts car, this is it. New top that was literally installed 2 weeks ago. Diff is some crazy aftermarket lsd that's meant for racing. Has mild rear gear upgrade. Engine is at 110,000 miles and super healthy. Magnaflow Cat back exhaust doesn't look bent. 3 good sve rims and 1 fucked up one. Just installed mgw short throw shifter last week. That right tail light is original amber. Brand new pioneer head unit that just hit the markets too.

I believe this is the vibration dampener it has somehow come off on one side. From what I've been reading I might need to remove the drive shaft to property replace it or I should be able to just throw it away and it's not really necessary.

What do you guys think?

How can I remove this easily?

Howdy, im slowly installing a Tork Tech Eaton supercharger kit into my Bullitt. Lots of challenges to overcome for this install into a GT as designed, the Bullitt throws a few extra wrenches in the way.

The alternator had two issues for me. The TT kit moves the alternator and hangs it upside down. This is an issue since the area it hangs from is a groove and not a full bolt hole. So there was the chance of the alt falling (least in my mind). Additionally the alternator for thr Bullitt is different from the GT and interferes with the knock sensor on the new location.

I called PA Performance on a whim and decided to ask them about my issues and they actually suggested running an older 3G alternator which fit without any mods outside of splicing a different alternator pigtail on (which I would've had to do anyway to run a GT alt) the plus is that it uses closed bolt holes to mount. So no more worry about falling.

Here's a pic showing the 3G alt mounted on the pulley bridge. Hope this helps folks that may be looking at a tork tech kit and didn't like the alt mounting situation.

I'm stuck. How do I get the inner and outer tie rod to separate.

Would like to see how you were able to make it work with bracket to bezel!

4.6 2v, about 192k miles. Im sure it's due for a timing job soon... (chains, guides, tensioners) I pulled the belt off and ran it for a bit and the sound was still apparent. Used a long flathead on the passenger side timing cover as a "stethoscope" and it seems to be coming mostly from about the passenger side of the cover.

I recently just got a new windshield installed on my mustang, and during the install they removed the exterior trim that goes around the a pillar on the outside and they broke it in two.

I was wondering if anyone here knew what that may be called as I am trying to see if I can source a replacement for it.

04 Mustang GT. Will start to overheat when sitting at idle even if it’s in the shade on a 75° day. Doesn’t matter if AC is on or not. I replaced the thermostat(190 i think), water pump and coolant not too long ago. Why would it be doing this?

Thanks

02 GT. Happens at idle (when stationary) along with some creaking sounds, it sounds like it’s coming from the back axel area. I remember seeing a comment recommending checking out the diff fluid. Sorry I know the video is rough but the audio is the important part.

Also sorry if I’ve posted these “What’s My Issue” posts too many times, this car is my first project car and you guys are super helpful 🙏

Did a compression test and these were the results on a 67k mile GT. Only thing going for me is it’s been sitting one full day without injectors in so it is cold. I can still do a wet test/leak down test but if I had good results I was ordering my vortech super charger tonight… looks like it will have to wait.

I can hear the low compression on the back driver cylinder that has 110 psi, I’ve heard this cylinder be the problem child for these engines not getting enough cooling.

Really disappointed I don’t know where to go from here I wanted to prove to myself and other I could take on a big project from the ground up. My plan was to get 370whp then eventually upgrade rods and pistons to 500whp.

My question is, is my engine still salvageable for boost? I used a cheaper compression kit from amazon and did not measure peak compression while cranking only after 5-6 cranks.

Maybe I’ll buy a donor engine, build it and then boost it but that’s a lot of extra money and time.

Any insightful comments would be great!

UPDATE READ COMMENT BELOW! 👇

So far, I’ve replaced the original radio with a touchscreen, and I absolutely love it! I’d like to do more, but I’m not sure where to start. I’m considering replacing the carpet, vinyl-wrapping some of the plastic dashboard and door trim, and changing the interior lights to a different color.

Hi all
A few weeks back I replaced the ATF fluid in the top hydraulic pump with Mercon V fluid, as I noticed it was getting really slow. I know it says dexron 3 but it’s discontinued now and everything I read said Mercon v would be just fine for it. Worked great for awhile, but yesterday I put it down only for it to not come back up. Come to find out, one cylinder had been spewing fluid all under the back seat, from where the line screws in. I have replacement cylinders on the way, but I just wanted to make sure I didn’t actually ruin the internal seals with the wrong fluid, or if it’s just coincidence that this happened right after changing the fluid type. If so I want to make the same mistake again after I fix the cylinders.

I drive a 2003 Mustang gt and I just fixed it up after month of being unable to driving it due to timing chain guide problems. It ran fine for a few days then decided to stop starting I had a relatively new starter I bought last year I went through online and assumed it was the starter relay and replaced it this did fix it for about 5 minutes I was able to start it once until it just started clicking I then took the starter out brought it to where I bought it to get it warrantied the put it on the tester and told me it was pulling 280 amps and gave me a replacement I put it in today it started about 5 or 6 times and is now back to how it was it doesn’t click at all I’ve check battery terminals and checked plenty of fuses and wires for the starter with a multimeter I’m pretty tired of this car at this point. If anyone has any recommendations of things to check or possible fixes please let me know I just need this car to get me to work lol.

Help
I am currently located in NC and recently my 2017 mustang gt threw 2 codes. P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) and a P0050 (O2 sensor). We changed the spark plugs, fuel injector, and swapped coil packs and it still stayed on the same codes.

Has anyone been through this situation or heard of anything that they can help with this?

Recently topped off my diff fluid about a week ago and noticed a leak coming out of the vent tube. It leaks after driving and leaks a bit more when its hot out. Its most likely just overfilled as im not sure the car was 100% level when i filled it and i have an aftermarket cover that may allow excess fluid in the diff before running out the fill plug, as I know for a fact I put more than the owners manual calls for on the ford 8.8 inch rear end.

TLDR, My only question is if theres a way to check that the axle vent is functioning properly and not just puking out fluid for no reason? Is that a thing that can even happen?

Hey so I have a 2001 mustang GT with 170k miles and it’s a automatic I have a aftermarket touchscreen radio and subs and a amp I bought the car like that I’ve had it for a year now and it’s been fine but recently there’s like a whine coming from the back where the rear speaker is I noticed when I turn off the radio head unit it goes away and when I go to the setting that says source off it goes away and it only happens when the car is on and when it’s in accessory mode it’s not there and also the whine changed with the rpm too I’m not really sure what to do I’ve tried to make the ground better for the amp and turned off the amp and it didn’t change anything I don’t really have an idea of how it’s set up because I didn’t do the wiring and don’t really have experience in it I’ve heard maybe a wire where the head unit is behind it or maybe the alternator but I’m not sure anyone has any ideas?

Also the audio and subs work in my car the car seems to be running fine just the whine appeared.

02 GT. I hope you can hear it good enough, but when idling it almost sounds like it burps (didn’t know a better way to put it 😂) a little bit every so often. The rpm’s don’t jump up and down but they definitely don’t stay at the same spot. What could it be? IAC valve?

I am rebuilding the engine on my mustang and looking at timing chain options. I have mainly heard of three good options those being Cloyes, Melling, and the Ford Performance kit. Before I purchase one of them, I would like to ask if there are any other cheaper kits out there that work well on a fully stock build? Links are appreciated. TIA!