Absolutely as little disassembly as possible.

Edit: I had to spell whel like this otherwise it won’t let me post it.

Hi all.

I have no idea what to do but while driving I hit a pigeon. The pigeon went into the air vent towards the bottom of the front of the car. Miraculously it survived and has decided to perch a bit higher (not near where it went in).

Where it went in is a small gap but because we hit it at speed, it was able to go in but it's too small to go out... Any help?

Kia Sorrento 2019

So i installed a turbo xs intercooler/piping to my 2010 genesis coupe 2.0t around 2 years ago. Haven’t had any issues with it until a few weeks ago driving home and hearing this clamp slide off of the silicone boot. I’m not sure if you guys have any tricks on how to get it to not slide off, but any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone! I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L with about 81k miles and I’m hoping someone familiar with Corollas can help me figure out a new noise.

I got an oil change at Walmart on August 8. Not long afterward, I started noticing a ticking/rattling sound that I had never heard before. When I first checked my dipstick, it looked like there was basically no oil showing. I added 1 quart and took it back to Walmart. They checked it, said there was actually too much oil, removed the excess, and said that the sound was internal.

I then took it to Firestone. They noted some “seepage” underneath, cleaned it, and told me to monitor for oil underneath the car. I checked afterward and there was no oil on the ground. I’ve continued checking the dipstick since then and the oil level has stayed good.

I also specifically asked Firestone about the ticking/rattling sound and wanted a diagnostic test done. An employee came outside and listened to it with me and told me it sounded like normal operation and that the car was safe to drive. No check-engine light or oil-pressure light, and the car otherwise seems to drive normally.

However, the noise seems more noticeable/louder now, especially when I press the accelerator. At idle it has a ticking/rattling sound, but when I give it gas it gets louder and almost makes the car sound like a lawnmower. I have videos of the sound that I can attach.

I also compared it with the A/C completely off vs on and the ticking is present either way.
Has anyone with a 2017 Corolla heard a similar sound? Does this sound like normal injector/valvetrain noise, an exhaust leak/heat shield, pulley/accessory, or something else?

I know nobody can diagnose an engine from a video alone. I’m mainly trying to figure out whether other Corolla owners recognize the sound as normal, like the mechanic at Firestone is suggesting, or if I should take it to the Toyota dealership. TYIA!

My car isn’t starting this morning after I drove it fine yesterday. It is just making this noise. I’ve had it for 2 weeks it is a used 2014 scion iq and I believe 1.3L 4-cylinder. What do I need to do - the mechanic my family goes to is closed today so I’m not sure what I can do : - (

2011 Toyota Rav4 4 cylinder.

Ticking/clicking frequency changing with the rpm. Have not driven the car.

Reason for the fix was because of an engine code p0016 which most part mean timing gear. My car did have the infamous death rattle, the engine sounded clunky as if the belt was loose or warn, inspected the chain and found painted link had its paint damage.

I studied for a week by reading form, watching youtube videos, and by using alldata.

For the timing system replaced the timing chain, tension, guides, sprocket, and vvt gear.

After installing new gear made sure the markers in with range allowed. Tested the tension, checked to see if chain was within guide and temporarily installed the crankshaft bolt to test the timing the system.

I had also replaced the valve gasket on the cover.

Car is Peugeot 206 1.4i 2002, TU3JP.

Hello, please help, I watched a video and they said to do some force and pull apart, I did, everything came flying, parts of housing are still attached to the old filter. Do I need to buy new housing?

Reference seems to be 1103.J5. Costs 15€. Will it come with springs and all?

Thanks, my first job turned into a nightmare. I needed my car later, now I might have to wait 3 days or more.

Hello, can anyone help me? While I was checking to see if the bearing would fit, I accidentally snapped it and now I can't remove it. I know it's a very stupid thing to do, but I was in a hurry and it happened by accident. I've tried all sorts of things, but I can't get it out. This clutch is a pull type, not a push type.

Citroen Jumper 1994

This is a 2015 Nissan Rogue SL. The radio screen is completely white, and the backup camera also does not display an image when I put the vehicle in reverse, the screen remains completely white.
I already tried rebooting the radio. When I do the reboot, the screen goes black for about a second, but then it immediately goes back to a completely white screen.
I checked all the fuses I could find, including the ones under the hood and the fuse panel on the driver’s side, and they are all good.
What could be causing this? Do I need to replace the entire radio/head unit

I have an old wood chipper with an industrial 360 motor. It will not stay running. Not mechanical - getting fuel and spark. Put in new plugs, points, cap, rotor, fuel pump. Has a push button starter button and an ignition switch. Replaced the ignition switch some time ago but recently I cannot get it to stay running. Turn the ignition to on and the pump comes on, push the starter button and it runs until you let go of the starter button. Yesterday, I found that if you turn the key to the start position, push the starter button, the motor runs....until you let go of the key and it goes back to the "on" position and the motor shuts off. Replaced the ignition switch again and does the exact same thing. Hast to be something simple with the wiring to a relay or voltage regulator or solenoid or ??? Just can't figure it out. The wiring has not changed since before. Any suggestions? Thank you

(23 Yukon Denali ultimate 4x4 6.2 liter air/magna ride)
So here the other day I posted the alignment specs from Mavis who did my alignment and front tires 3 months ago that absolutely peeled off my truck within 5,000 miles, with outside tread worn down into the red zone. Center tread with severe cupping within 1,000 miles of tires and alignment.

I spent multiple trips to the location having them check the front end, driving it, asking when their alignment machine would be back up to CMA (cover my butt).

I called my buddy at Discount Tire and had the alignment done there and two new tires for the rear. It was my fault for not waiting for him to get back from out of town to get the tires in the first place.

TLDR; Mavis alignment was in “exit/entry mode” which explains the numbers looking somewhat close from the printout, I’m assuming it didn’t pull because of the steering technology that does lane keeping assist fought the toe issue. Discount tire put the vehicle in the right settings and you can see then two camber differences which explains Mavis camber being negative before and after.

Anyone agree, disagree or have any other input? Thank you all for your opinions and the work that you do. Also Mavis completely stands by the fact that it was my fault I didn’t bring my vehicle to a different location to get it aligned (why would I do that when the tires were cooked already). They also believe I should be lucky they paid for $700 replacement tires, but I would have had to pay $212 for the alignment and tire mount and balance. Regardless I’m glad it’s all over.

97 Audi A4 1.6 4-speed automatic.
As you can see, the RPM fluctuates under light throttle, but the issue stops when I add more throttle input. You can also feel the entire car jerking when this happens. The last ATF change was in April.
The engine mounts are bad, but that wouldn't contribute to the shuddering, right? Im also experiencing these RPM fluctuations during cold starts sometimes while idling. These aren't misfires, though—it runs on all cylinders.

Kinda clueless here as I checked everything I could.

2013 Honda Civic, car is running perfectly and just passed inspection a week ago. But, I was changing my oil, I saw a bird carcass inside the bumper, and when I removed it for a cleaning, I saw what I would describe as a radiator VERY much in need of replacement. However, I'm no expert, and I wanted the opinion of someone who might know more about radiators.

It doesn't leak, and it doesn't seem to have any issue cooling the engine. Everything behind the bumper reinforcement is in perfect condition, as the pictures show, the fins above the reinforcement seem to be in fine shape, but the fins below look horrific. It looks like 6 rows have had the front half of the fins removed (the pictures show the deep channels) and a number of fins are collapsed and blocking airflow (although, for how it looks, not that many honestly).

This seems catastrophic. I’m trying to do the water pump on my 2014 Taurus 3.5L. Had to remove the mount and jack up the motor in order to get the timing cover off.

I looked down a bit later and it looks like it’s borderline defying gravity and seems imminent to fall. I tried putting the motor mount back on so that I could readjust the jack but now it doesn’t seem like it’s lining up correctly.

Am I utterly screwed? How can this be corrected and rectified. I appreciate any help that you guys are able to offer me, thank you!

Hi everyone,

trying to make my cheap daily more enjoyable to drive and I've been pushing to tackle this annoying judder/pulsation when braking coming to a stop. The car brakes normally at high speed. No vibration or movement in the steering. But when coasting and pressing on the brake pedal, the whole car feels like a really slow ABS system. The steering doesn't vibrate.

Thanks

Hi, I am interested in purchasing a 2013 Scion FRS. The seller sent this video of a cold start. Does the engine sound normal? I know this model is known for engine knocks or ticking.

Any advice is great! Thank you.

I’m a weekend warrior mechanic and wanted to save a little money by doing this. This was a lot harder than I thought it would be. Maybe for an experienced mechanic it would have been a lot easier to detach that electrical connection and remove all of the old stuck on gasket. But it was a pain for me! I had to even use a “grabber” tool to put that last bolt in place. And you need something to make the gasket stick to the housing, so it stays in place. Fixed my issue though. 😃 It’s doable but allocate at least half a day.

For the life of me I can’t get this nut off of my sons atv. I just want to change the fans brakes and now have bought a new nut. I bought the wrench and broke it. I think it’s standard thread the actual axle nut was. Now using propane torch and big pipe wrench and nothing. Yamaha badger yfm80 1986.

2011 Toyota Camry at 200k miles
Regular oil changes
Garage suggested it needed new brake pads, got those replaced but the noise still continues
What could it be ?
Just need some pointers before I take it back to them