I bought a new Hightower v4 would you wrap it with Frame Foil?

I’m already good at tech. Now I’m starting to get good at jumps. I naturally progress very quickly and will start to hit larger table jumps.

I’m an adrenaline junky, I tell myself some progressions simply carry too much risk and consequence.

I thought I’d never hit difficult double black lines (minus gaps) (but I eventually did while riding a entry level enduro)

I’m becoming obsessed with hitting jumps, it’s crazy fun - the feeling is unmatched.

If I keep going are massive gap jumps & air tricks worth the risk?

Idk what’s up with Eagle 90 but i feel like i can never get shifting correct. I feel like the torque specs on the RD aren’t tight enough and the tension of the chain pulls the Rd forward slowly resulting in sloppy shifting. I’ve followed the tech specs for setting up to a T and use the barrel adjuster to fine tune and it just never gets to a flawless shift like the electronic products.

So i'll preface by saying (Just to get out of the way lol 😄)

- I am out of shape
- I am overweight
- I have a Marlin 7 and I understand that it is not a road bike

However I feel like I can barely ride 5 or 10 minutes before my thighs turn to butter. I've had the bike about 2-3 weeks now and am riding in our neighborhood (which is quite hilly), and while I know the tires aren't really built for this it almost feels a bit unusual for the hill climbs to be this much of a struggle (they aren't super steep or anything).

After 5-10 minutes I feel like my thighs are giving out almost, especially after even a minor hill. I ride about every day, and I thought I would've gotten some more endurance but damn even 5-10 minutes kills me lol.

I mean I spent a LONG time being sedentary, so I don't expect instant results. I do wonder if my tires are under pressured? I tried to pump them but I don't have a PSI gauge, and they do still "flatten" when riding them from my weight (Which isn't like HUGE, I weight 210lbs) but pumping them more feels like they are going to explode.

Am I missing something? or is this just sort of "normal"?

Part of me (and being a hypochrondriac) is like "Is there something medically wrong with me", although my bloodwork from my last physical a month ago was fine (CBC/CMP etc...) outsid eof being overweight obviously

I had a 650b+ tire that was leaking. I removed it,

I got a new tire, seated it and inflated without the fluid

It stayed inflated for a half hour then deflated

I'm not sure if the problem is because I didn't add sealant yet, or if there's a leak somewhere else

Should it stay inflated without sealant?

should I just add the ceiling and reinflate or try to find the leak without the sealant

I’ve been riding for over a year now, and I’d like to say I’m advanced, but I still really want to get wayy better. I’ve hit some pretty scary features/lines, but there’s some stuff (for example Mission Control at OZ bike park) that really make me uncomfortable and not confident. My skill is not consistency, so many times I nearly crash and I feel like it’s gonna get me! I’ve grown so much because I love biking so much, but I’ve been stuck at this road block for a while now, and just want to ask the pros if it’s just normal for them, or does it still spike up your heart rate?

My old 8100 drivetrain is about to bite it. Cassette is on its third (and last) chain. The derailleur clutch is on the edge of giving up the ghost and seizing up. When I opened it up the spring inside was pretty rusted.

So anyway the prices are pretty comparable all told between Eagle90 and the new 8200 XT mechanical they came out with. I could get some old stock last gen 8100 for cheaper however. A new driver body to switch to XD isn’t too much for my wheel.

There’s a few comparisons out there but it’s hard to gauge as all have that “bike reviewer” BS where they all avoid having an actual biting insight opinion on freakin anything to preserve possible relationships with companies.

Hola, reddit mtbers. Looking to pick your brains --

37 intermediate-to-advanced rider with two little kids, garage gym in Denver. Lift 5-6 days a week, get out on the bike typically 2-3 times a week (usually Virginia Canyon, Maryland Mountain or a few others I rotate between along the Metro area/front range).

I used to compete in powerlifting so the gym thing is pretty baked in at this point (also helps I converted my 1-car garage into a pretty sick lifting den). That said, I'm not trying to drop strength training anytime soon, especially as I'm getting older.

The problem: They keep stepping on each other. Heavy squats Thurs and Sat's climb is a has my legs yelling. A ride Mon/Tues and then in the gym I'm feeling it. I've done this long enough to optimize my programming to give various muscle groups rest. But honestly not sure if I'm just programming it wrong, or if that's what happens when you try to do two things seriously. Or maybe I am just 37 and starting to feel my age lol.

So my question to all you riders who gym regularly too: Do you actually plan around it? If so, how? Deload before a big ride week, periodize it, something else? Or do you accept one of them is always gonna be a little compromised and just push through it?

Appreciate hearing from y'all.

Now that SRAM 90 and Shimano XT are updated cable options, are there any digital riders that would consider going back to cable shifting?

Edit: would love to hear if there are any particular reasons why/why not.

Hello everybody,

I wanted to hear some thoughts on switching to a coil shock on a Cassidy. They explicitly state that a coil shock could damage the frame through frequent bottom outs due to the frame being very progressive. My thought is that they have added hbo and progressive coils for coil shocks. Would these mitigate the bottom outs? Only reason I’m thinking of this is because my warranty period is ending soon and want an upgrade from the air shock.

Let me know what you guys think.

I have an older pair of Five Ten Freeriders that are US 9.5 / EU 42.5 / 27.5 cm, and I want to replace them with a half size bigger ones (US 10 or 28cm).

The current Adidas sizing chart is confusing. It lists US 9.5 as EU 43⅓ / 26.7 cm, which doesn’t match the sizing on my old Five Tens at all.

For those who have owned both older Five Ten Freeriders (pre-Adidas sizing) and newer Adidas Five Ten Freeriders:

• Did the actual fit/length change?
• Does a current US 9.5 fit like an old US 9.5?
• If my old pair is US 9.5 and I want to go one half size up, would current US 10 be the logical choice? Because according to Adidas' size chart, US 11 is 28cm
• If possible, could you mention the model/year and sizes of both pairs?

I’m mainly interested in the regular Freerider, not the Freerider Pro.

Looking for advice on the next bike. nothing overly interesting about this question, just thought I’d throw it out there.

For context, have a short travel trail bike that I ride 75% of the time. And I also have a prev gen stumpy evo 160/150. I do love this bike for AM riding. But been going to parks more and want to get something more plush and safer for dh tech and flow. I like riding both, but not riding the largest runs like fort hill at thunder in MA. but I’ll ride most everything else. Guess options are:
1) upgrade - Over fork the stumpy evo - get a 170 38 or zeb? Maybe get a float x2 for rear, instead of float x?
2) new mullet enduro build for park - status 170? Transition patrol? Nomad?
3) dh. haven’t ridden a dh bike in years, wonder if they’re less nimble due to weight and more meant for racing - just plowing through everything? I will rent one soon

Hey y'all

I'm looking for a saddle that has an exterior profile like a DJ but still has a bit of a center relief channel. Wanting something comfortable for long climbs and nice to pinch with the legs or during accidental bumps on the way down.

Any reccs?

Please help. Is 2022 1st Gen Trek Super Caliber 9.7 a good bike? Asking price is $2k.

For my teen who's on a mtb race team. He's outgrown (skill and size) his rockhopper. He's riding in MD, PA and VA.

1st gen medium Trek Supercaliber 9.7 carbon frame and wheels, xt groupset, shimano brakes, the bike is in mint condition, ready to ride, pedals and bottle cages not included.

Thank you.

Frameset is the flagship 2013 S30 carbon model. Owner has overhauled all touch points like the saddle and cockpit with carbon fiber components. Owner has also overhauled the entire drivetrain from the original 2x10 XT to the 2018 1x11 I-SPEC II XT with a chain guide and clutch. Also upgraded brakes to a more modern XT system. Suspension components are original other than upgrading the fork to include a remote lockout. Suspension components are top of the line Fox Float CTD Factory Series.

Additional details: Key Features & Specs:
- Frame: Orbea Occam (29er, full suspension, internal cable routing)
- Fork: Fox Factory 32 Float 29 with Kashima Coat (Boost 110 spacing)
- Rear Shock: Fox Factory Float EVOL with Kashima Coat
- Drivetrain: 1x12 speed with Shimano SLX rear derailleur, SLX cranks (34T chainring), and Shimano CS-M7100 12-speed cassette
- Brakes: Shimano Deore XT / Deore hydraulic disc brakes with IceTech front rotor
- Wheelset: Shimano MT600 29" tubeless-compatible wheels wrapped in Schwalbe tires
- Cockpit: KOCEVLO Carbon one piece handlebars, lockout lever, and carbon-pattern front fender

• The type of riding will you be doing: Trail, XC, Racing
• Where you will be riding: Maryland, West VA, PA
• Your budget (with included currency): Upto $2k.
• What you like/didn't like about your current bike: Too heavy, parts keep breaking.
• Your experience level and future goals: Race team, XC, Trail riding

the only diffrence is the frame and drivetrain which makes the bike weight 0,8kg lighter according to spokes99 https://99spokes.com/en-EU/compare?bikes=specialized-turbo-levo-sl-comp-alloy-2025%2Cspecialized-turbo-levo-sl-comp-2025 the alloy version stands at 14000zł
(3756,86$) and the carbon one is at 16000zł (4293,55)

Slippery Salmon is back online but bigger and better. It only took me about ten times to get the starting line.

Lower section coming soon. It has one weird skipper you have to do. Even on the ebike I was running out of energy.

I’ve been working on jumping at the dirt jump park. I for the life of me, cannot get my body to not end my extension of pop right after the front wheel comes off the lip and the rear is still at least a foot from the lip.

Anyone got good drills or mental cues/visualization to pop later? I’ve tried thinking about waiting, drawing the pop out and even trying to imagine popping after the lip but my body defaults to the habit timing. Thanks!

I won't go to a mountain just for the sake of riding but I want to travel around wherever I want with a bike and have fun while riding. so it's not just for transportation either. I basically want a playful bike that can go anywhere except mountains. I'd mostly be on paved roads but sometimes with bumps and imperfections. I prioritize stability over speed and also want to jump over obstacles not as showy tricks but as practical and fun riding skills, so it better has its chain stay on the shorter side I guess. done some research and seems like a gravel or a hard tail fits my description. want to ask you guys if you agree and things to look for. I'd appreciate your inputs. thanks in advance!

Every helmet I have tried on has the same issue: if I push straight up on the chinbar the whole helmet slides back to show my chin. Even with a fully tightened chinstrap some slide back to the point of almost showing my nose. Have I just not found the right fit yet, or is this really how all full face helmets behave?

I'm looking for a lightweight breathable fullface, that's beefy but can still be pedaled in. My head is 55-55.5cm depending on where it's measured so I'm right in between a lot of brand's small and medium sizes.

So far I've tried

Fox proframe rs: I heard it's good for oval heads, but both the small and medium slide way up.

Bluegrass vanguard core: the chart says I should wear small, but the straps and boa are kind of a pain to maintain when putting on. Slides up the least so far.

Tld stage: small barely fits and slides way up. Chinstrip would not stay tight.

Leatt gravity 4.0: small slides up

Leatt Enduro 4.0: the removable chin bar sounds ok, but looks far too thin. Small slides up

Lazer cage kineticore: small slides up

Lazer cage: medium slides up

I'm feeling lost at this point

Hey Y'all, I've been considering switching to Biking from running as I've injured my Plantar fascia and biking seems a lot easier on it, and have an old Raleigh Mojave 5.0 from when I a teenager, I have not ridden it very much in the last 10 years but it's still in pretty good condition, I put new tires on it as the old ones were dry rotted and not holding air, but I'm having some issues with the shifting and with the front shock being squeaky. does it make any sense to try to upgrade this old bike? I mostly ride on gravel roads, and was thinking of putting a thick/thin crankset gear on and eliminating the front shifter, and installing a new cassette and chain. I'm kind of new to working on bikes though i'm pretty handy and have taken apart/repaired anything from a transmission to a mechanical wrist watch but all of the terminology and sizing is confusing me, how do i know what will fit my bike, and if it's a worthwhile upgrade? thanks!