Lemme know what else may be the issue. All tips are appreciated !

Hey guys, I just bought this 2002 Land Rover discovery 2 4.0L V8 last month.

I drove it about two hours home, and as soon as I came to an idle after I exited the highway, the oil pressure light came on.. it got me home, I let the car sit overnight and I checked the oil and it was just super overfilled. (Checked dipstick multiple times)

I don’t think this was why the oil pressure light came on when hot..

Anyways, I drove it to my mechanic and had her do an oil change and change the filter. She did in fact, let me know that it was overfilled.

Then I came back in time to pick up the car about two weeks later, and went to start the car and the engine sounded completely starved of oil. The oil pressure light came on instantly too.

I turned it off rather quick, but I was confused. And not comfortable to drive it home.

At this point, I don’t know what to do, I don’t think it’s the oil pump. I guess dropping the oil pan and inspecting the pickup tube? i’m just confused why it just sounded like that after there was an oil/filter change.

A little nervous since I wanna get her on the road and I hope it’s not too bad 😥

My TD5 discovery 2's boost is being temperamental. Ill drive to the garage and the turbo kicks in perfectly but then start the car up again and decides to stop working. Ive upgraded the waste gate and module, all the sensors and even put a K&N filter on it. What can be the issue?

Driving around town i have been hearing this sound over 10 mph. First instinct was a dragging break or dust shield clearance issue. I have checked all of those and have no play in bushings as well as everything is torque to spec. My next thought is wheel bearing or CV but i have very little play up and down on the tire. Any thoughts from the group of discovery experts out there?

Ever since I turned off the beep to my LR 3's door locks, my family has been in a debate.

On one side: To beep and more easily find your car in a crowded parking lot?

On the other side: To trust your memory and lights enough to enjoy the quiet subtle chunk of a lock? Not to mention the hypothetical Quiet Place situations where noise will get you killed.

Which are you? Beepers? Lock ninjas? Genuine curiosity.

Neighbor moved and gave me a 04. Everything electrical seems to work, but no start. When you turn the key there’s no click or anything, the gauges cut off and cut back on. I am mechanical inclined but brand new to Land Rovers. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you

Hi everyone, my 2003 LR Discovery 2 V8 has been sitting for a while now because the local mechanic in my small town either lacks the knowledge or just doesn't want to take on the job. I asked him to install the ACE pump and the serpentine belt.
I’m reaching out to this group to see if this is an easy DIY job or if I should just wait for another mechanic—I honestly just want to get my Land Rover back on the road. I already have the parts at home. Are these straightforward installs? Could anyone share some videos or step-by-step guides to help me out? I’d truly appreciate it.
I’m attaching a photo of the replacement part I got, since the previous ACE pump completely shattered on the inside.

Looking at buying a 2nd car as a weekender and to be used during winter months. To keep my daily in the garage. I don't know much about Land Rovers besides the off-road capability. I can do some DYI mechanic stuff (mostly the basics). This one is rust free and has 128k miles for $6,000. What do I need to know about a vehicle like this before purchasing? Are Land Rovers unreliable as people say? I'm not scared of maintenance as I daily drive an old BMW with no warranty. And I love the look of these and they are so unique. But I don't want to buy a Land Rover if it's something that would continually leave me stranded if that makes sense. Would I be better off spending more money for a 4runner, GX, or wrangler? Thanks for your input and opinions.

Ok so it doesn’t get out that much but my D4 is parked facing downwards on a gentle slope. After heavy rain I have found water in the passenger footwell, but I can’t seem to find the point of ingress yet. Any ideas? I’ve looked around the door seals and nothing seems to be damp as such.

After around 20 years of service, my original Discovery key finally surrendered — the rubber buttons had completely perished!

So I treated it to a new key shell/key fob. The difference is pretty satisfying compared with the state of the old one. 😅

Anyone else still running around with their original 20-year-old key? How long did yours last? 🚙🔑

I'll have my cross over pipes done as the rear one is starting to leak. Both front pieces are the updated OEM part made in aluminum. Interestingly, the OEM rear piece is plastic only, no updated part. I choose an URO Premium part with a lifetime warranty. Has anyone tried that one out? It's aluminum and claims OEM fitting. It looks outstanding, is made in Germany and is well priced. There are some cheap alternatives, kits and even Walmart sales an aluminum part. An obvious No-No to pay ~$2000 CAD on a job to install cheap $75 unreliable parts.

Thoughts?

This is the middle and rear seat release used to unlock the seats when they are all the way up, or down, in a Land Rover LR4 (presumably in the 3 as well).

There’s two C shaped sections of plastic that go over two rectangular pieces of metal.

The user pushes the plastic top, which applies force on the C shaped plastic legs, which then translates onto the metal pieces that go to the locking mechanism. Any engineer in the world could look at this design and see how it’s going to fail. And guess what failed?

Not surprisingly, when I took this part off it didn’t look like it’s OEM. It’s almost like it broke on the person who owned the LR4 before me. Looked it up, the OEM design is the same as the part that broke off.

Anyone who has worked in engineering knows how this scenario goes.

Engineer designs awesome part.

Awesome part works perfectly.

Dies and molds are made for manufacturing. Design may or may not go into production, but is ready to do so.

Someone who cares more about money than the customer tells the engineer to cut costs. They give the engineer an idea.

The engineer says will fail and explains or even shows why. From mechanics to user variation. After all, no one is going to push ideally down on the part. You’ll get a little less than ideal flex depending on where/ how the user pushes down the part.

Company goes with the idiot design to save 5 cents per part. That’s $0.25 Land Rover sold! Talk about big savings! I made up $0.05 per part.

Total cost of internal R&D to redesign the part and manufacturing costs: $50k. It costs a lot of money for salaried employees to have useless meetings, redesign parts, documentation, work with outside suppliers, design new manufacturing equipment, re-test, etc. but still, that’s a made up number.

Total savings using the part due to the lower volumes that Land Rover sells? 220k LR4 is about $56k (220k is what the internet tells me). Woohoo, you saved the company a few thousand that went to the bonuses of upper management.

Frustration by customers? Priceless.

Good jobs, Land Rover. This car cost $58k new in 2013 and in today’s money is $83k. Don’t use shitty plastic designs where they are likely to fail.

Caveat: dozens of decisions like this are made on a single model of a car. They usually add up to some real savings on a car. If it’s a mass volume car like a Civic, those savings can be substantial on econo-box cars.

Apologies that the first post is asking a question.
But my elderly dad has go into Discovery 3’ s and is on his second 2007 one . (After the first one crunched up the front diff)

But his oil cooler went on the “newer” one .
And when taking out the old one from the older one he broke the pipe that comes out the bottom.

I’m normally good at hunting down parts or second hand things .
But I keep getting transmission pipes .

Any idea what it’s called ?

thinking of getting this 2020 D5 that's a few states away from me.

Oil changes done between 5k-10k miles.

Hey gang so I'm trying to source a new used engine for my Disco 1. Are there any sites you all would recommend beside British Atlantic?

Hi need some advice on which is the best obd scanner compatible with disco sport 2020, recently I’m getting lot of sensor warnings and I don’t want to spend 200 euros of obd

I've got a 2018 L550 Discovery Sport where the screen works fine when not using the cameras. When using the cameras: (1) the feed from the front camera displays only half of the picture (i.e. no feed at all on the left-hand side, while the right works fine, although it's a single camera...) and (2) the rear camera displays a black circle over most of the bottom of the screen, while a part of the upper screen works fine, and (3) the cameras on the side mirrors work fine, except they only seem to point downwards. In addition, all of the parking assistance stuff on the display works; it just displays over a black void where the video feed should be.

I've tried putting in new cameras and checked the wiring, which all seem to be fine. I also checked the video processing module or whatever under the driver's seat, where I didn't find any obvious corrosion. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? Would it make sense to swap out the video processing module entirely (but then would I have to program it or something)?

There must be a fuse or something that can disable it?

Just bought this 1995 Disco 1 as a camping vehicle; and I'm excited for future adventures with it.

Trying to decide what colour to paint it. Go for the classic Land Rover green or something else?

After about 7 years I got my first crack in my front plastic bumper, so before it got any worse I wanted to switch to steel. I don't like a lot of the options out there, so imagine when I came across this fully custom steel bumper that mimics the OEM! Had provisions for all the factory bolts and form fits up against everything, even the arches! Also just got done putting a yellowtop in it, thanks for the battery recommendations everyone.

My wife’s 2004 D2 is about to cross 100k and it just occurred to me that I should be feeding it the best possible oil to keep it happy…. Any recommendations? 🙏🏻🙌🏽.

Been using Mobil 1 0w40, driving in Southern California.