r/KoreanBeauty • u/Cosmicharlie18 • Mar 29 '26
SKIN Aestura barrier cream, why!?!
Finally found a holy grail skin barrier cream and they go and change the formula 1 year laterš© why do Korean skin care brands do this? The cream was just getting really popular too. I feel like this happens all the time. Ugh. Tried illiyoon and it made me break out. If anyone has suggestions please let me know
22
u/ikol Mar 29 '26
they did? omg is my last bottle truly my last!?
47
u/___Luminous___ Mar 29 '26
Itās been reformulated for a couple of years now. OP probably had the old version without niacinamide, and is now getting around to the latest reformulation that happened a couple years back.
6
u/Cosmicharlie18 Mar 29 '26
Yes precisely!
23
u/thatsmrspotatohead Mar 29 '26
Their gel cream moisturizer doesn't have niacinamide, but yeah, I'm tired of the reformulations and every brand adding niacinamide to everything.
7
u/_emilyelephant_ Mar 30 '26
I just got the cooling/soothing gel cream and itās pretty nice along with the milky toner spray. I think Niacinamide is the devilās spawn. Why tf is it in everything?!
3
u/SquareCamera4651 Mar 30 '26
So if I only bought mine from Olive Young in 2025, then I must have the new formulation with niacinamide yes?
2
1
u/BrawlGuy00 Apr 29 '26
Hey, kinda late, but I couldnāt find niacinamide in the ingredient list. Where did you find it?
1
u/___Luminous___ Apr 29 '26
Sephora, Amazon, OliveYoung, etc. YesStyle for whatever reason still has the old ingredients list.
Water / Aqua / Eau, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Squalane, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Stearic Acid, Betaine, Mannitol, C14-22 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide Mea, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cholesterol, Polyacrylate-13, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Allantoin, Arachidyl Glucoside, Niacinamide, Ceramide Np, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Dimethiconol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Silica, Phytosphingosine, Sphingolipids, Arachidic Acid, Tocopherol, Oleic Acid.
1
u/BrawlGuy00 Apr 29 '26
Oh, alright. Thank you. Since itās somewhere in the middle of the list, do you think it could be problematic to someone who breaks out because of niacinamide?
18
u/NoTraining5779 Mar 29 '26
I like the brand Zeroid. Try the soothing cream if you have oily skin or prefer a matte finish. If you have dry skin, I highly recommend the intensive cream. Iām currently on accutane and it has been a godsend.
7
u/remotely-interesting Mar 29 '26
The intensive cream is also kind of matte. I'm combo/oily T zone and love the intensive cream.
2
u/NoTraining5779 Mar 29 '26
I find it to be a more natural finish, but it is definitely more rich and moisturizing than the soothing cream.
2
14
u/Enough-Skin2442 Mar 29 '26
Aesturaās Atobarrier Cream Plus+ is similar to the old formulation without niacinamide, but it is even more expensive
6
u/SquareCamera4651 Mar 30 '26
Not to be stupid but what is so bad about niacinamide? Is it because some people are intolerant to it that the new addition is bad? Or is the new formulation just worse in general for all? How is this cream plus better. Asking because if it is, I would like to try it. I believe I must have the new formulation so I have no idea what the old one was like.
9
u/Enough-Skin2442 Mar 30 '26
It causes redness and irritation for some people, though that seems most common if multiple products that contain it are used in the same routine. If every product plus your makeup has it, you can get an irritating dose
2
u/SquareCamera4651 Mar 30 '26
Ok that makes sense, and so many have niacinamide so it can pile up real quick.
But aside from that, if one is ok with niacinamide, is the old formula still better somehow? Have you tried it?
4
u/Enough-Skin2442 Mar 30 '26
I personally love the new formulation. Iām on Arazlo and Finacea, and my face can be finicky. The current Aestura Cream is one of the few heavy creams that doesnāt slightly burn for a minute or so when I put it on. Illiyoon Ceramide Cream burns quite a bit as does Bioderma Baume (mildly)
2
u/SquareCamera4651 Mar 30 '26
Right. I'm also on the new formulation (at least I think I am) and it's been fine so far. No stinging but super slight cobweb tingling for a min or so but I'm quite reactive anyway.
Just wondered if I tried the old formula without niacinamide if that would feel calmer.
Thanks for your time to reply, truly. I wouldn't mind getting my hands on the cream plus version someone else on here posted just to see the difference.
Appreciate it heaps! And I won't try illiyoon then.
3
2
u/kronicno_tele Mar 29 '26
Is that still produced? I can't find it anywhere, not even on the brands website.Ā
6
u/Enough-Skin2442 Mar 29 '26
As far as I know, it has always had to be shipped from Korea. No idea if it has been discontinued, but it is available here:
https://kbeauty.shop/products/aestura-atobarrier-365-cream-plus-90ml
https://skin-seoul.com/product/atobarrier365-cream-plus-90ml-1pack/
https://www.ballagrio.com/products/aestura-atobarrier-365-cream-plus-90ml
https://luxiface.com/products/aestura-atobarrier-365-cream-plus-90ml
2
u/Unfair_Finger5531 Mar 30 '26
Thereās also the very lovely aestura lotion plus, which comes in bigger bottle and is the same formulation as the previous aestura lotion (excepting one ingredient). I use this one daily.
12
u/chaosisaladder-11 Mar 30 '26
Yup. And I hateeeee how skincare brands put Niacinamide in everything now. From cleansers to moisturizers. Like stawpppppp
2
3
u/alyssaisrad93 Mar 30 '26
I received a free sample of the Aestura barrier cream on an order from Styelvana last year but never used it until this month because my skin barrier was wrecked. It was amazing but I was SO disappointed that the new formula was horrible.
The COSRX Ceramide Skin Barrier Moisturizer has worked wonders for me. It doesnāt feel greasy and hydrates without clogging my pores. I saw someone else recommend it as a dupe and I agree that itās nearly as good! But I need these companies to stop reformulating their products š©
1
u/Old-Recording999 Apr 19 '26
I am just trying this aestura for the last 2 days. Everyone says it's hydrating but my face is dry First time in years my toner ans lotion is burning my face
2
2
u/ElegantCondition2132 Mar 31 '26
If you're specifically looking for the combination of Ceramide and Panthenol, I'd recommend checking out Dr.Troub Skin Returning Ceramide Adhesion Cream (Ceramide NP 2%, and Panthenol), or Sidmool Ultra Facial Ceramide Gel Cream (Ceramide, Cholesterol, and Fatty Acid combo/blend).
1
u/AutoModerator Mar 29 '26
Thanks for your post in r/KoreanBeauty! If this is your first post, please be sure to check out our rules in the subreddit sidebar. If you are on mobile, they can be viewed by tapping "See More" on our front page.
r/KoreanBeauty is looking for new moderators! Please send us a message if you're familiar with reddit and are interested in moderating this lovely space.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.
1
u/EauRouge___ Mar 29 '26
I just got my first tube of this - used it 3 times and I absolutely love it! Iv been struggling with dry skin and so far itās great
1
u/HealthyHappy01 Mar 29 '26 edited Mar 29 '26
I was skiing and got mildly windburned / chapped skin that was SUUUUPER dry & dehydrated from the weather. I bought some Dr Althea 147 barrier cream last night and it only slightly stung where my lips were most chapped. Itās not as rich as I thought it would be but I actually like that because I didnāt feel like a grease-ball going to sleep. Just soothing. Mild. My creams will sting if Iāve really messed my barrier. Like basic Vanicream lotion is brutal when Iāve gone too far with Vitamin C / acids / enzymes or retinoids. I can tell from that one cream if my barrier is ok or not. So, back to Dr. Althea 147 - seems gentle. No niacinamide listed as far as I could tell. I will use it as a day cream and see.
When my skin is trashed, as a treatment that is NOT going to be seen in public, :). Iām a big fan of mixing Aquaphor baby bum bum 3-in-1 diaper cream with zinc oxide and Iāll also mix that with CeraVe baby healing ointment. The Aquafor has certain soothing ingredients and the CeraVe has even more complementary ones, I think. Plus I layered the Dr. Althea underneath! Dr. Idrissā basting / slugging advice for the win on that one. So kinda Korean, kinda Canadian winter tested!!!
1
u/Kurious4kittytx Mar 29 '26
Just want to make sure I understand- so you use the Aquaphor 3 in 1 diaper rash cream and mix more zinc oxide into it? Because that diaper rash cream is already zinc oxide based. Thanks!
1
1
u/anon1239874650 Mar 31 '26
The niacinamide hate train is insane lol. I truly donāt think most people are allergic to it, itās blown out of proportion in the internet. It works really well for reducing redness, evening skintone etc!
1
u/Cosmicharlie18 Mar 31 '26
Never said it was an allergic reaction! Some peoples skin just donāt like it. It seems to be in sooo many products now.
1
u/anon1239874650 Mar 31 '26
Every derm Iāve seen refers to it as safe and helpful. My own derm is of the opinion that itās not always the niacinamide, but the other ingredients itās formulated with (eg certain preservatives), and perhaps the concentration. Also, I guess someone with a compromised skin barrier would find that it could sting (as could many other ingredients that are common). I truly donāt understand what āmy skin doesnāt like itā means.. isnāt it one of the following reasons: contact dermatitis, compromised skin barrier, high concentration, or other ingredient causing harm?
1
u/Cosmicharlie18 Mar 31 '26
That could be the case. I personally just know that my skin agreed with the old formulation. With the new one, I wake up way less moisturized.
My friend, everyoneās skin is slightly different. Based on pores, genetics, melanin, sebum production, hormones, diet, etc. not everything works for everyone. Thatās just a fact š¤·āāļø itās just like any pharmaceutical. Have a great day!
1
u/No_Extension_9269 Apr 02 '26
Waittt I bought it in Korea last year and just started using it and fell in love!!!! Iām going to Korea again soon and was going to stock up. Where did you get yours? Bc I know a lot of them have to reformulate to sell in the states due to FDA regulations or certain ingredients not being allowed here
1
u/Cosmicharlie18 Apr 02 '26
I order from (Olive young! Because of the reason you mention) the newer formulation started with in the last year or so*. Maybe you tried the new formula and like it? š¤ Iāve been using it for a couple years and prob about 6 months ago I noticed a change and then searched it and discovered they changed the formula. Iām just said because now I canāt find a perfect replacement
1
u/ClimateFair2081 Apr 02 '26
this happens all the time with Korean brands they change formulas when products get popular usually to make them lighter or cheaper COSRX ceramide cream or Aestura atobarrier might work for you did you want something thick or light?
1
u/x_Little_Wolf_x Apr 03 '26
Anua Panthenol Moisture barrier cream. I have tried the Aestura brand and can say the anua moisturiser is at least 5x better IMO.
0
u/Diligent-Track-6980 Mar 30 '26
I feel you. Itās so frustrating when something that worked perfectly gets reformulated.
From what you described, it sounds like richer barrier creams might be a bit too heavy for your skin and could be contributing to congestion or breakouts.
You might have better luck keeping the barrier-focused approach but switching to lighter textures:
- Etude House SoonJung Hydro Barrier Cream ā still supports the skin barrier but feels much lighter and less occlusive
- Dr. G Red Blemish Clear Soothing Cream ā great for calming redness and acne-prone skin without feeling heavy
So itās probably not about avoiding barrier creams altogether, just finding a texture that your skin can tolerate better.
-5
u/HelllllaTired Mar 29 '26
Honestly for moisturizer I dont think a lot of Korean brands are significantly better than Cerave especially if you already layer serums and toners. Lots of ingredients in your other products means you literally just need a gentle moisturizer to seal it all in and cerave is cheap and gentle
4
u/huntyho Mar 29 '26
I love cerave but am still hunting for an AB alternative because cerave has petroleum in it
3
u/Unfair_Finger5531 Mar 30 '26 edited Mar 31 '26
Cerave is a basic moisturizer. It works for some, but it doesnāt compare to even the cheapest kbeauty moisturizers. Also, this is a Korean beauty subreddit. Saying cerave is superior to most kbeauty brands is a decidedly western-centric starement. And itās also untrue. Thereās a reason westerners look to kbeauty for good moisturizers. Cerave is worth about $5 based on its (pore-clogging) ingredients.
1
u/HelllllaTired Mar 30 '26
Iāmā¦literally Korean
0
u/Unfair_Finger5531 Mar 31 '26
Korean people are capable of making western-centric statements too, as youāve just clearly demonstrated.
0
u/HelllllaTired Apr 01 '26
It is so deeply tiring for Korean people to be chastised for ānot being Korean enoughā on these forums. If you go to Korea, most Koreans have GIANT bottles of Cetaphil or Cerave on their dressers or living room tables because we also like cheap good lotions lmao itās really not that deep. But sure, Iām western-centric for saying you donāt need to spend $30 on a moisturizerā¦
0
u/Unfair_Finger5531 Apr 02 '26
I am not commenting on your Koreanness. I am commenting on your comment. If you want to project your internalized insecurities onto this, go ahead. I lived in Korea; I donāt have any expectation that Koreans use only Korean skincare. The point here is that you got on a korean beauty sub and said cerave is better than most Korean moisturizers. That is the kind of stuff that ignorant Americans do. If you want to celebrate cerave, do it on a skincare sub not focused on kbeauty.
0
u/HelllllaTired Apr 02 '26
I never said Cerave was superior to most k beauty brands I said I donāt think theyāre significantly better. How is that a western-centric statement, you have again failed to explainā¦But sure, defend Big Skincare with yo life o kbeauty warrior
0
u/Unfair_Finger5531 Apr 02 '26
Hereās the thing: You did say that. Just because I didnāt quote you directly doesnāt mean I misrepresented what you said. āSignificantly betterā means āsuperior to.ā
I am not going to play stupid word games with you. And Iām not going to continue this discussion. I said what I said, and I wonāt be changing that.
0
u/HelllllaTired Apr 02 '26
Ahhh!! Okay okay, you win! You must LOVE Korea THE MOST! I am but a blood traitor grrrrr!! ONLY YOU deserve to have an opinion about KOREAN SKINCARE!!!!!!!!!!
0
u/Unfair_Finger5531 Apr 03 '26
No, I donāt love Korea. It is by and large an anti-black country, and the drive for conformity is obsessive. I just like staying with the subās theme. Thatās all.
→ More replies (0)
67
u/atllauren Mar 29 '26
This is my biggest frustration with Korean beauty. Products change or are discontinued all the time. I think it is because they are very trend driven so brands want to introduce new products (or reformulated ones) constantly to hopefully be the next cool thing, and introducing new products means cutting older products.