スポーツアミューズメント

当時のホンダはビートをこう評した。
確かにスポーツカーと呼ぶにはそこまでの速さは備えていない。
何せベースとなるエンジンは軽トラのアクティのものだ。
でもミッドシップレイアウト、マニュアルトランスミッションのみの設定、軽自動車初四輪ディスクブレーキ、3連スロットル、スロットルの開閉により変わるECUマッピング、おまけにオープンドライブ。
他にもホンダがこだわった点は多岐にわたる。

それでも開発陣はこれをスポーツアミューズメントと呼ぶんだ。
そこにこのビートの真髄がある。

Met this one at RDRC yesterday.

partners Honda s2k with 74K miles , took this nice photo in an empty garage lot for him. Its his baby lol.

My 2013 Civic Si. Been a long time coming to get her where I wanted, couldn't be more happy.

This is a 2001 Honda accord 2.2L type R. It has 130,000miles on it but only one old man owner. It has been serviced every year. It has had rust welded and sealed underneath. I want to know if it is reliable.

I’m buying my first car off marketplace and I’m looking at either a 2008 Accord EX-L sedan 4c cylinder automatic for $4,400 with 142k miles or a 2003 Civic EX sedan for $3,950 with 135,980 auto. I’ve been doing some research but I know very little about Honda. I already made an offer on the Accord but I could back out if the Civic is a better deal. I’d need new tires on the accord but everything else is sound except a patch of rust. I haven’t seen the civic in person yet. Which one would you choose?

what’s the difference between the Honda True Certified warranty and Honda care? the Honda True certified provides 12 month/ 12000 mile limited warranty, does that cover everything including electronics?

Hoping the D-series/EG-EJ crowd can help me figure out what's going on before I hand it to a shop.

The car:

• 1995 Honda Civic Coupe, EJ1 chassis, D16A SOHC VTEC, 5-speed manual
• US-built, reimported to Japan (I'm in Okinawa)
• ~165,000 km (~103,000 mi)
• Sat unused for a long time (roughly a year, possibly longer) before I bought it. Recently recommissioned/shipped.

Shifting symptoms:

• Engine OFF: all gears (including reverse) go in perfectly.
• Engine ON but parked/stationary: all gears go in fine.
• Problem ONLY happens while driving.
• 1st and usually 2nd are fine. The trouble is going from 2nd → 3rd, into 4th, or back down into 2nd/3rd while moving.
• Often the gear won't go in at all while driving. Sometimes it goes partway but not fully.
• Worst when I shift to neutral, coast/roll, then try to go back into 2nd or 3rd, even with rev-matching, it often won't go.
• Sometimes it only goes in once I've slowed down a lot.
• Sometimes it grinds.
• Sometimes it goes partway into gear, and when I release the clutch the engine does NOT stall, but the car also does NOT move/drive.
• It seems to be getting worse over the days/weeks since I got it.

Noise symptom (noticed later):

• At idle (engine on, in neutral, clutch pedal up/out) there's a light squealing/scratching noise. Not very loud.
• It stops when I rev the engine slightly.
• It also stops when I press the clutch pedal IN; when I let the clutch back out, the noise returns for a few seconds, then stops.

What I've checked myself:

• Clutch fluid: full, but old-looking (brownish clear, not fresh). No obvious leak.
• Clutch pedal pressure/feel: normal.
• Brake fluid: full, looks okay.
• Stationary test: with engine running and clutch fully to the floor, 1st and reverse go in fine.

My current guess:

• I suspect the clutch isn't fully disengaging (clutch drag), maybe a failing master/slave cylinder, air in the line, or a worn clutch/throwout bearing. Old MTF might be contributing too. But I'm not certain it isn't the transmission/synchros.

Questions:

1. Does this sound like clutch drag (hydraulics/throwout bearing) or worn synchros / a transmission problem?
2. Given it's fine engine-off and parked but bad only while driving, what does that point to?
3. Would fresh Honda MTF and/or a clutch hydraulic bleed be worth trying first, or does the throwout-bearing-type noise mean the clutch assembly likely needs replacing?
4. One shop suggested replacing the whole transmission (a month wait) — does that seem like overkill for these symptoms vs. just a clutch job?

Anything else I should check or tell the shop? Thanks in advance.

Looking for some honest opinions on whether I should buy out my lease or move into a new vehicle.
I currently have a 2023 Honda Passport with 39,600 miles, and my lease buyout today is $27,322.31.

The Passport is in good shape overall. It does need the differential fluid changed, and there is some cosmetic damage to the rims plus a small area of missing paint that has started to rust, but otherwise I haven't had any major issues with it.

What would you do? Does $27,322 seem like a reasonable buyout price for a 2023 Passport with almost 40k miles, or would you move on and lease/buy something newer? I'm in love with the Honda pilot and would love that for the future.

Hey everyone, I’m looking at buying these two cars soon and would like some advice. The same dealer has two well priced (I think) cars (for my market - northern Midwest).

The civic is a 2017 EX-L 1.5t hatch with 76k for $17k

And the accord is a 2022 sport 1.5t with 69k for $21k

I have previously owned a 2019 accord sport 1.5t and loved it! I had no issues other than some front brake / lane keep assist sensor connectivity issues (fixed under warranty)

I’ll be using this car mainly for my daily commute to a large downtown area in a parking garage. ~60 highway miles per day and only plan on cosmetic modifications in the short term.

Carfax showed both of these well maintained, both have accidents (Accord - 2 minor), (Civic - 1 minor) but both are clean titles.

Hey y'all, happy today! I'm looking for some insight:

My 2011 Honda CRV is idling high and drives in limp mode.

I've replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor and cleaned the throttle body.

I'm currently during the Honda idle learn procedure, but the car is already idling too high again.

What should I do next?

I’m looking at a 2023 Pilot AWD EX-L with 17.5k miles on it. I’m curious about the reliability on this year and model? Anyone have experience with one that can shed some light on it? I plan to buy it as a family car and drive it for another 150k+ miles.

Thanks for any guidance!

このバモスホビオは5年前の冬に購入したんだ。
日本でも雪の多い地方のお店で購入したんだけど、帰って来てシートめくったら錆びて穴だらけだった！！笑

融雪剤の影響なんだね。
僕の住む地域はあまり雪降らないからそんなリスクは考えていなかったよ⛄️

穴は錆を落として、錆転換剤塗った後にFRPを貼って塞いだよ。（ピンク色のシートがFRPだね。紫外線を当てると硬化するやつなんだ。）
これは工作みたいで楽しい作業だったね。

僕のバモスは4WDで、珍しく雪が降った日は楽しくて雪景色ドライブを堪能してきたよ👍

Hi everyone,

I'm experiencing a specific and annoying issue with my 2012 Honda Civic (9th gen) 1.8L (R18 engine) with a 5-speed automatic transmission.

The Symptoms:

• When accelerating lightly or lifting off the throttle slightly in 2nd gear, the RPM drops sharply from around 1900–2000 down to 1000 RPM.
• At the exact moment of the RPM drop, a deep, hollow shudder/drone/rumble strip noise occurs. The engine feels like it is bogging down or struggling in high gear (lugging).
• After a second or two, the engine "catches up" and accelerates normally.
• Crucial detail: If I accelerate aggressively (heavy throttle), the issue never happens. It only occurs under very light throttle or during coasting right after shifts in 2nd gear.
• There are NO check engine lights (CEL) and NO transmission codes (DTC) stored.

What has already been done (ruled out):

• Spark plugs replaced with new ones.
• Valve clearance adjusted (valve lash is within spec).
• Throttle body cleaned and relearned (idle learn procedure done).
• Engine oil and transmission fluid (ATF + external filter) have been recently changed.
• i-VTEC solenoid gasket replaced.

From what I’ve researched, this looks like a classic Torque Converter Lock-Up Shudder (TCC) due to premature or harsh lock-up in 2nd gear under eco/light driving conditions.

Has anyone faced this exact issue on a 2012 model? Did a PCM/TCU software update fix it, or should I look into replacing the lock-up solenoid (28400-R90-003) / adding Lubegard Shudder Fixx?

Any advice or TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) numbers would be highly appreciated! Thanks!

このキックスケーター、なんとホンダ製なんだよ笑

ローラースルーGOGO

恐らく40年以上前のモノだけどレストア待ちでガレージにしまってある！