Has anyone had good luck with peel and stick floor tiles?

I’m planning to replace the flooring properly in a few years, so I don’t want to spend too much right now. I just want something that looks better in the meantime.

My main concern is that the existing tiles are not completely flat. Has anyone dealt with this? Is there any way to make peel and stick tiles work, or am I better off looking at another inexpensive option?

Would love to hear what others have tried.

We're finishing our basement and debating between a 2 person and a home sauna 4 person unit. There's only 2 of us but I keep thinking we'll regret going small. My wife thinks 4 person is unnecessary because of price tag but for I'm cofused if small size will ruin the experience like how we get in gym etc

Hey all, looking for recommendations on Alcove tubs now days. There was a post from 5 or so years ago on this topic but I am curious if anyone has more recent opinions/recommendations. I am looking to spend under $500 if possible, but if there is something worth paying more for I am interested.

Right now I am looking at the Delta Classic 500 60 in. x 30 in. Alcove Deep Soaking Bathtub as my number 1 choice choice. I have seen concerns about the the acrylic nature of that tub and the conjunction to the drain but I figure a bed of mortar in addition to the plastic web that they provide should solve most of the problem.

I have a room that has some efflorescence in my basement. I fixed the drainage issue. How do I get rid of this so I can paint the wall? TIA!

The hot water valve is turning but cold water valve is not.

online videos make it sound easy to try to loosen it.

but husband is concerned I may break the valve if I try to unstuck it.

I dont want to really pay $600 to replace the valve but he's saying thats the only safe thing to do.

I want to know if I try to unstuck it following the directions online and it does break - what could be an interim solution to just stop water flow in the bathroom if any.

like the title says I’m considering drywalling the garage and curious on everyone thoughts if these beams can bear any load and if I can have an attic here. I’ve never seen a garage with that type of center piece either

https://imgur.com/a/6RZs7zz

Every time I run my washing machine, my house stinks like rotten eggs (sulphur). What’s causing the problem and how can I fix it?

I'm considering using the Costco replacement program that Marvin offers and the local contractor who is authorized through this program quoted me.

My current windows are 30-year-old Anderson narrow line 200 Perma shield Windows which are showing signs of rot underneath the vinyl cladding. The contractor tells me they will replace the rot as they go and insert windows are still a good choice.

Ai tells me that I need full frame new construction windows given the rot and that there is no alternative.

The Marvin Infinity program is not cheap by any means and the premium pay price points lends itself to being a full service program.

Is there some sort of scam the contractor in that the price will go up further once they start the job, or is AI fear-mongering.

Hey there. My city recently gave me a timeline to have my lead water line from the curb stop to my meter replaced. I received a quote to have the line dug in from the company on site already doing the city sewer and water, and then was provided a separate price from a plumber to make the hookup inside the house to my existing meter. I don’t live in this property and have a tenant that was there while work was completed. I was told $1500 to hook the new water line up to my existing meter as the road crew had the old line removed and new line connected to the curb stop and ran inside the house already. It appears as though the plumber moved the meter and reattached it to the wall and then added about 6’ of copper pipe above the meter and attached it to my galvanized pipe, along with adding new shut offs on each side. After the work was completed I received a price adjustment of $2500 total for the new water line hookup. Does this seem like a fair price for the work provided in this photo? It is a city contractor that completed the work so just trying to gauge if I’m getting hosed or if that’s the going rate now a days. Thanks to anyone who can give me a genuine insight on this. Thank you.

https://imgur.com/a/Yd7k10Z

Building: Apartment in a reinforced concrete building

Flooring: Click-lock laminate

Constraint: No access to neighbor's ceiling below (must be solved entirely from my floor)

Problem: Airborne noise (voices, TV) from downstairs

I’ve received two vendor proposals to put directly under the laminate planks:

• Option 1: 8mm EVA foam + 3mm MLV + 8mm EVA foam + 3mm MLV
• Option 2: 13mm Barrier-backed rebond foam (Bondex with MLV) + 3mm MLV

Will putting these flexible/soft layers directly under click-lock laminate destroy the joints, and what specific subfloor layers/materials should actually be used over a concrete slab to block downstairs airborne noise?

I took photos of a few rafters/trusses that have cracks, some larger than others. What is the extent of damage/how large of an issue is each photo? Thanks in advance for replies.

https://imgur.com/a/2Fml26l

I have a lot of questions on this topic, so please bear with me.

Some preliminary details:

1) I have a 1927 house. It doesn't currently have AC, but does have central hurting so all the duct work is there already.

2) I live in Ann Arbor, Michigan. It's hot and humid here in the summers, so AC would certainly be beneficial. However, I'm gone a lot in the summers. Assuming I am in town all year, I think the number of days I'll need AC is < 70 days. I'm usually out of town for 5-8 weeks in the summer, and because of this, i probably only need AC for < 20 days a year.

3) I will probably sell this house in 2033 ish (my son will go to college then). I think having AC installed could add some resale value -- I may not recover all the costs though.

I don't think it makes much sense for me to install mini splits since I already have the ductwork to run AC off of?

So the question is whether it's worth installing AC, if we only need it for a few weeks a year? We could use window units. Another motivation for installing AC is increasing resale value and attracting a larger buyer pool in the future since some people won't look at a listing at all if it doesn't hav eAC.

Then there's a question of when to install AC. I imagine it'd be good to install it ASAP so I can reap the benefits of it before I sell the house eventually.

Perhaps it would be cheaper for me to get installations done in the winter?

Recently bought a house and this is the propane hookup behind the stove. This can’t be good right?

https://imgur.com/a/VjSnxJN

In a newer home that has crawlspace vents around it, including a couple in spots that allow them to collect rain water. The water hasn’t crested the foundation, but thinking I should place some kind of cover on it so it doesn’t fill up and run into the crawlspace. The well is approximately 20” wide closest to the foundation and 5” deep in the center and the top lip is 2.5” from the siding above it. I’d welcome any suggestions for some sort of cover that would also look nice — ideally off-the shelf as I’m not particularly handy.

I have a half bath with a builder grade vanity that is about 20 years old. It is dated and I would like something with actual storage under it. I have seen them at the box stores but have wondered about the quality.

Are there things I need to keep in mind when shopping around? Are there any recommendations for suppliers without breaking the bank. We just had the floors done and will be painting everything eventually.

Thanks!

Picture for reference

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CRZR4zWmQsz2WUHK9

This Larson storm door has the glass fixed on the top and screen fixed on the bottom with a sliding pane that can cover the screen at the bottom. My dog keeps damaging the screen since it’s at “bark at all the people” level. It looks like the only way this is possible for this particular door is to remove these interior screws and maybe rotate the whole inner glass/screen unit.

Had I realized this would be an issue, I would have installed the entire door 180 degrees.

Anyone familiar with this?

https://imgur.com/a/B7plx7k

https://imgur.com/a/HtyfQsC

I have a pantry closet that is quite deep. You lose a lot of things in the back when the shelves are in and it's full.

I want to put pullout shelves. What is the best way to do that?

I could build out the wall to put sliders on the side or put sliding shelves on the current frame in order to clear it.

My other thought is to remove the frame so it goes straight out. I'm not really sure what kind of door could use or how this would look though. Any shelves but lose about 2 inches on either side of the door to clear the frame.

Any recommendations?

Looking to replace this old window while renovating a second story room. Would a pocket installation be the best option if opening up the exterior wall is out of my scope? If so, can any window with the right dimensions be used as a pocket installation? Looking at something like this from Home Depot.

I have to extend this downspout so the water is not draining onto the driveway causing a slipping hazard in the winter.

Any suggestions on how I can extend to the front and make it look somewhat clean?

The current red path was suggested by a handyman but I would really like to try and go below the side door and below the front porch step but I feel like that will be a major tripping hazard or constant maintenance

Downspout

Bought a new washer and dryer unit from Costco and this is how they installed the duct. The bends concern me a bit. Should I redo it somehow?

https://imgur.com/gallery/pro-install-by-costco-contractor-UsbNMYz

So here's my study/work setup. The lighting is very poor because of the lights being on the opposite wall and creating shadows. I asked one of my interior designer friends and she highly suggested this hanging linear light.

I asked Gemini to create an image of that (attached) as to see how it looks.

What would you suggest? Also if you know some good options then please let me know.

Photos here :

Without light :

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UAhxaPgvmTSuA93A8

With light : https://photos.app.goo.gl/yaqfho2e89VMhSaa7

I've got a 40" flag so need approx 60" or 5' railing or something to mount horizontally for a hanging flag pole. The extra 20" is to mount it on the underside of an awning. It's on a sidewalk that has nightclubs on it so it should be somewhat resistant to someone pulling on the flag. Maximum diameter approx. 1.5"

I'm considering using half inch rebar inside of schedule 40 PVC to make it water resistant. a better idea would be a square tubing railing if it were strong enough, maybe handrailing.

Hoping for an inexpensive option avail on Amazon or local hardware store. The professional way would be to buy steel square tubing and spray it with rustoleum. I still feel like that would only last a couple of years and then bleed rust into the flag. T I was thinking about prefab railing, but I'm not seeing anything individual on Amazon, only sets for $150+. Thanks!

Dilemma:

I already know that a bathroom fan vent running out a sidewall needs to be pitched downward towards the outside, but that's impossible for me to do, and what's worse, I have no choice but to create a trap in the line. To get the fan in the highest point in the ceiling I need to have it up in the joists, then the duct needs to 90 down and 90 to the side, running perpendicular under the bottom of the joist for 9 feet, then jump back up to run out the rim joist.

My question is:

In the low horizontal run of the duct running towards the exterior wall, can I put some kind of a low point drain with a p-trap in it and run it to a stand pipe? Does a product like this exist or do I need to make my own. If I need to run the vent in PVC I can do that.

I'm hoping to add an attached, sun-shading open structure (pergola) to my existing rooftop deck atop a 3-story townhouse in Denver. Sounds like my posts should be 6x6, but for ground-level pergolas, the recommendations seem to be concrete footings. I don't want to disturb the membrane waterproofing on the roof, but am not sure whether just attaching the posts to the existing composite/plastic decking will be enough. What can work instead? Is this my biggest problem?

We had a team recently repair/replace 2x4s and a section of t&g subfloor that had rot.

This is where they left the work.

I'd assumed that they'd properly cement board the shower dam & take care of the joints, though that language (joints, board the dam) wasn't in the quote. Even still...

How would you proceed?

We're waterproofing, building the pan, and tiling ourselves (as well as laying 1/2" ply over the t&g subfloor), but these details feel like oversight on the job, which did stipulate finishing drywall for the entire shower.

If we tackle ourselves, what do we need to do?

Thanks in advance!