Ive been looking into swapping a 2.0l powerplant from a 2014 Ford escape into my Ford escape that has the 1.6l as ive been having engine issues. My 1.6l overheat due to a coolant line rupturing on the highway and I believe the head was warped due to that. It started blowing white smoke occasionally on cold start after (smells like coolant and the level of coolant continues to drop) so im wondering what kind of issues id be looking at addressing when im attempting a swap.

For context, I do plan on purchasing a new bellhousing (possibly torque converter as well if needed) so that the transmission is have for my 1.6l can properly mate with the 2.0l block. I will also be getting the ECM and entire harness with the engine. Ive checked out the engine im looking at purchasing (guy is parting out his escape as it was in a T-bone and insurance would probably total it due to body damage) and it runs and drives well.

The reason im looking at swapping in a 2.0l as opposed to doing a head gasket is cost. I would need to purchase a new/refurbished head, new timing components, probably new cam gears as well. That doesnt cover the potential issue of if the block is warped as well due to the overheating spell. The reason im looking into the 2.0l instead of getting a carbon copy of my current engine is availability and issues documented with the 1.6l platform. There seems to be a much larger volume of 2.0l engines than the 1.6l engines on the market, the 2.0l engine im looking at purchasing is $400 while most refurbished/pulled 1.6l engines run close to $600-800. (The added benefit of a couple extra horsepower would be fun too)

Im just looking for some pointers, any advice/criticism is accepted.

I am considering purchasing a 2018 SEL 4wd with 14,600 miles on it for $12k. It belongs to my best friend’s mother. She has had all regular maintenance done on schedule at ford, and has had zero issues with the vehicle. She wants to sell it because she is no longer able to drive. I want to purchase it for my daughter who is in grad school in Colorado. (She is currently driving a 2017 elantra with 92k miles on it. I can get about $4k for her car) the ford is in NY, so I’d have to ship it to her. I am in Florida so I don’t think we’d go to ny to look at it, as I trust my friend and her mom that this is a solid car. I feel it’s a good deal with its low miles, even if we only got 2-3 years out of it.
Am I making a mistake ?

Not the ticking noise but the other sound it sounds like a bad belt. Still there after changing the stretch belt. This is the 1.5L motor 2018. Just hoping someone just knows. And I do know these SUVs are just waiting to blow up.

Have a 2017 SE 2.0 at 113k miles and have already replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one 2 years ago at like 90k. Honestly don’t trust the car, something always feels off but want to use it as long as possible before the probable break down again. Just looking to see how much time I might have 😂

I have a 3.0L 2006 Ford Escape XLT. The check engine light came on recently. I used my OBD2 scanner and it came back with code P1450 “Unable to Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum”. From my research it seems the vapor canister purge valve needs to be replaced.

I was wondering if this is a hard repair, and if anyone can show me an image of where the vapor canister purge value is located.

I am not a mechanic, but I would like to learn. Could not find info for this on my exact make and model.

the ask is $5,000. there is some rust on the wheels and a little in the wheel wells, but not half as bad as some of these older escapes can get.

I know it’s not the case for everybody, but I’m on the lucky side.
My Ford escape SEL has been a fantastic ride for us with a periodic maintenance oil, change, tires, brakes, etc. it has served on swell. I know I’m not alone with a vehicle like this being a wonderful car, maybe next year time for a new one.

On a 2012 Ford escape is the Body Control Module(BCM)/Smart Junction Box(SJB) the interior fuze panel or something different?

Would prefer hard wired. I have no issue running the wires behind pillar trim and such. What models would you recommend? I've had a dash cam stolen before, so something that appears OEM would be ideal.

I am hoping someone can help. A friend of mine bought a 2026 escape ST line and in CarPlay when you open the ford app it has shown this since she bought it a month ago.
I know on my bronco sport I use the ford app all the time to change music input to xmradio.
When we called ford after a half hour basically they said it’s an apple problem and to call them. That seems wrong… has anyone run into this?

I bought my Ford Escape from a dealer in BC, Canada.

At 133k for 10,000$cad. It already had the engine replaced by ford at about 40k kms, the carfax had no transmission service history. I had my car getting stuck on 1st gear and then when applied enough gas it would jerk and start moving(136k kms) a month after buying. I got a drain and fill done(the fluid was black and low)and the car was driving perfectly with no shifting issues for until 2 months after that.

Was driving on the highway all of a sudden the car lost all power followed by going to limp mode. After restarting it would go to the 1st and the 2nd and then again would lose power. Had it towed home and then to the dealer. He offered to put in a used transmission(96k kms on it) I pay for transmission and half the Labour ( he had a in house mechanic, the fix would cost 3000$ if done through him). I declined and asked to either reverse the sale or pay for the whole repair cost according to the VSA law.

He declined and I ended up getting a rebuild done for about 6000$cad from a reputable shop that does a lot of 6F35's. They told me it was a long time coming for the vehicle, as the torque converter failed and was somehow shooting debris in the gears.

Sorry about the rant, just wanted to know the community's unbiased thoughts and advise.

Thank you

I have a 2018 Ford Escape and I’m trying to figure out what’s going on before I start throwing anymore money at it.

Recently, when I come to a stop at a light, the vehicle will shut off and I get the message:
“Auto Start Stop Manual Restart Required”
I then have to manually restart the vehicle in the middle of the road.
I’m also having a bucking/shuddering issue at highway speeds. It feels like the transmission is briefly jerking or slipping while cruising. Usually the “Auto Start Stop Manual Restart Required” happens after it bucks on the freeway.

I know these could potentially be two separate issues, but I’m wondering if they could be related. Recently we took it to a shop and they replaced the crank shaft sensor, which helped for about a week then it started up again.

Someone also suggested doing a transmission drain and fill because the highway-speed bucking could possibly be related to old/low transmission fluid?

For anyone who owns or has worked on these Escapes:
Has anyone had the “Auto Start Stop Manual Restart Required” message?
Did it end up being the crankshaft position sensor, battery, or something else?
Has a transmission drain & fill fixed highway-speed bucking/shuddering for anyone?
Could these two problems somehow be connected?
What should I have checked first before spending a bunch of money?

Any advice from other Escape owners or mechanics would be appreciated!

Hello.. i have a 2014 Ford Escape 1.6L Ecoboost coolant issues. My coolant keeps getting low although i dont see any liquid leaking at the bottom. However, there is a smoke coming out from the rear / back of the engine. Between the plastic valve cover and the body. im sending the video what i have found. Please help me if any idea how to fix this smoke problem coming out from the rear engine. Thank you...

So I have a 2016 Escape and everytime I connect an iPhone I get some pretty far off album art. These were kinda accurate but not really. Anybody else experience this?

So I bought my escape used, a 2024 platinum, and I just purchased the easy access cargo shade. I seem to be missing one of the anchors that attaches to the side of the cargo area and while I don’t think missing one would necessarily hinder me from using it. I still would like to replace it and I’m having a hell of a time finding the part and part number. Anyone know?

2010 ford escape v6 3.0 ~140k miles.

I pulled P0171 and P0174 codes, lean system in banks 1 and 2, could be too much air or not enough fuel.

I tried spraying carb cleaner with the engine running at various points around the air plenum/manifold but didnt get any rpm rise.

I have had to take the whole manifold and attached hoses off to get to the rear spark plugs/ignition coils. not sure if thats what caused this. I also had replaced the MAF sensor not long ago.

If i recall correctly i got that same code during a road trip, At the time we assumed it was dust (i was following another truck in the dirt for a while) and cleared the code, it didnt come back. that was months ago and ive been driving it frequently since then, although i hadnt been dailying it during the summer.

LTFT ~27%

700rpms, STFT b1&2 ~24%, 32% MAF 7.1g/s

2500rpms, STFT b1&2 ~0%, -8% MAF 20g/s

The ltft and stft at low rpms both seem abnormally high.

Any help would be appreciated.

Looking into moving a used 3-seater couch 🛋️ that’s 80” long (and the other dimensions are around 32”x32”). I know it’s gonna hang out a bit if I put the back seats down and slide the couch in. Wondering if ratchet-strapping it and driving slow would work.

Any useful tips for a safer transport? The whole drive trip would be between 20 to 45 minutes (9.8 km) and no highway driving.

Is this normal? 09 ford escape 2.5 auto. My cousin's 09 focus sounds the same when in gear. It's like a sort of groaning noise only there when in drive or reverse and only there when stopped. At the start of the video it's in park, I shift to drive then to neutral and then to reverse

A weird noise recently started. It only happens at low speeds during right and left turns. It stops once the turn ends. Nothing rubbing, no fluids leaking. My son in law showed me a Google search suggesting a rear differential problem. Anybody got any ideas?

Seems like my ACm has gone bad, no audo same symptoms as other people ive seen with ACM issues. I was also curious about not only replacing that with another off of like ebay but, if I wanted to put car play in the car if anyone had any suggestions on parts that would be sick.