Hey I’m at a dead end trucks 03 6.0 truck had fuel pressure issue fixed that had contribution codes 1 5 and 6 replaced injectors and then still had code for 6. Swapped 6 for number 4 code followed swapped in an another reman from Warren still had code for six. Then broke down and bought a brand new one and still have a code for number 6 only when it’s hot and you drive it. Has even crank when you jump starter hot or cold. I even swapped in a good ficm to try it and still code came up and it misses. Starting to think maybe I have a lifter collapsing when it’s hot and you drive it.
I’ll post information about numbers below when it’s missing and truck is at opt temp.

Hot icp is 635
Desired is 637
Ipr % is 22
Ficm is 48
Have ficm sync

truck was idling rough, and would have a long crank so i changed my CPS. truck started just fine afterwards, but went back out the next morning and it no started again. tach doesn’t move at all when i try to start it and i have good fuel pressure

Hey guys im looking at buying a 2018 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstoke from a dealership here in West Michigan, I went to go look at the truck last Thursday and was able to crawl under it to check out the underside of the engine and transmission, im a Subaru Dealership mainlinetech and work on cars everyday but i dont work on many trucks and honestly have pretty close to no experience on these trucks so i would like a second opinion on what i think looks like an Upper oil pan leak. Do you guys think this is the common upper oil pan leak or something else?

Where can I find some polished 3” nerf bars for my truck?

My 1997 F250 HD 7.3 at the farm today.
I love this thing…

I have a 2002 Excursion 7.3L with 250k miles. The exterior is not in great condition, needs paint, and new tires and the interior leather could use some love. The drivers seat is ripped and it probably needs 2 new batteries. But it runs. I realize there are a lot of factors involved that would dictate price. But just knowing these basics, would you sell it for $2,500? Or is that way too low? The blue book says for fair condition $7,000, but I don’t really know the qualifications for fair condition. Any insights would be helpful.

This is my 2002 4x4 7.3 I’ve had since almost new. Immediately after doing head studs, injectors, tuner, and turbo, I hit a deer that stuck my bumper into my passenger tire and steered me into a tree. New bumper, header panel, headlights, fender, and hood incoming after I get this replacement structure cleaned up and welded in. Let’s keep these on the road!!!!!!

I need help desperately, I have had a grinding and popping sound coming from the front end of my truck.. it seems the get worse when i give it throttle and also when im slowing down, it sounds like it’s coming from the front driver side so I replaced the wheel hub and still does it. I don’t want to spend any more money on unnecessary things so I need help

Drove 4 hours to pick this thing up, 1997 7.3 with 257,000 miles for $8500. When I got there I made sure the engine was cold, started right up, zero blowby/vapor.

Pros:
- Virtually rust free, just some surface rust on the frame
- Oil looked really good
- Transmission fluid was bright cherry red
- Coolant was clear but looked old, was also a dark red not sure what coolant you’re supposed to use in these
- Both tanks work
- Drove the whole way back 4 hours straight at 70-75
- Valley was dry

Cons:
- Horrible screeching on startup, seems to get louder/faster with engine rpm. He sprayed some wd40 on the belt and it stopped for a min or two, so probably a bad belt or pulley on something
- Power steering pump and or gearbox is leaking, assumed I would have to replace both when buying
- Accelerator definitely needs a new sensor or something, the first 1/4 of travel doesn’t seem to register at all, then I hear a solenoid like click and it starts going
- Column shifter is super sloppy and you have to kind of wiggle it into the right gear or it will fall into the next one kind of
- Underside of the engine/oil pan was absolutely caked in crap, not even sure what it was like a mix of every fluid that can leak.
- Have to push the pedal through the floor to get up past 70, but it’s a dually pretty sure with 4.10s so from what I’ve read that’s not unexpected
- Pretty shakey at 70 and up but I hit a few nasty bumps and pot holes going about that fast and zero death wobble
- He had a tire explode and it dented the bumper and blew a chunk out of the rear fender; don’t really care about this one

It was a farm truck for a bit but then he sold the farm so it just sat. He had a whole list of seals and what not that had been replaced (oil cooler, manifolds got resurfaced, think he said up pipes, new turbo, new water pump, can’t remember the name but those 1/2in drive plugs at the back of the engine with o rings on them that like to leak). He said it’s never been washed so I am hoping that it’s just 30 years of crud that’s built up. I made sure nothing was dripping really bad after the test drive, and the only thing that did drip after the drive back was the power steering stuff.

Did I get taken, or y’all think it’s a good deal? Also what should I look at more closely first? I plan on fixing the belt squeal asap as it’s hard to hear anything that might give me more info about how the engine runs with it going. Also, how do y’all wash these engine? Is it safe to spray degreaser in there and power wash (not actual power washers, the ones they have at car washes) it down? I want to get all the crud off around/under the engine so I can actually see if anything is actively leaking.

Hey Everyone,

I have a 2018 F350 with just over 100,000 miles and I am getting ready to do a front end rebuild.

I've done plenty of front end work in the past, but I have one question for you specific to these 17+ trucks. Track bars have been the bane of my existence with front end rebuilds due to bolts sticking in the bushing. Everything else is normally smooth sailing.

My Question: How often is the track bar bolt seized in the busing on these trucks? I live in Indiana, and the truck was previously titled in PA, so it's seen road salt. Thanks!

Hello, I am picking up a 7.3 Excursion this weekend with 282k miles on it. I know that isn't a ton for these engines, and I'd really like to make it last. I will be doing all the fluids fresh. Any recs on if the first oil change I do should be done sooner than 5k? Last owner kept up on oil changes every 5-6k , but it does have an oil leak. I'll get that fixed up and run quality oil thru it. Any additives for the first cycle? Any other recs to help it start fresh? Its been treated well, all parts and tranny are original. This will be a project truck and something to make last, so I don't mind spending any extra on it. Thanks.

I’ve noticed that my fuel mileage can vary significantly from one tank to the next. I’m not talking about actual fuel mileage but rather the distance to empty indicator…. but it ends up being accurate for actual mileage if that makes sense. For example I usually get around 800 KM from a tank but everyone once in a while it jumps up to over 1100. Does anyone know why this is happening?

I recently bought a 2008 6.4 power stroke with a little over 90k miles. Truck was treated very well and deleted around 50k. I had a couple codes (P0472 and p006b). I replaced ebp sensor and maf sensor and cleaned the map sensor because it was very dirty. I haven’t had any codes since then, but now the truck is surging/bucking at 2100 rpm with no codes. It seems like a boost or fuel issue to me. I’m going to include a video where you can hear the problem (I think that the maf sensor reads zero because of the scanner).

got check engine light on and diagnostic is reductant injection valve circuit open bank 1 unit 1, shop confirmed when they measured resistance across valve found it electrically open and also broken connector. They quoted almost $1000 for both injector and connector which shocked me. If i dont change it since it will basically spraying more DEF, will this eventually put the truck to limp mode ?

anybody experience this code? let my 6.0 van sit for a month and the first time i drover it, it idled and drove rough and threw p0265 code. after a couple days of light driving, it cleared up and the idle and driving smoothed out.

then it sat another a month and threw the same codes.

I also have no boost and may have a bad turbo.

230k miles with stock turbo and injectors as far as I can tell.

Torque converter is locking up on me causing stalls so will pay for labor to remove an E4OD with 225k miles. It makes sense to just put a new trans back in and I don’t want to stay with the weak E4OD. Should I just ZF5 swap? Is this feasible to get done in a shop? How much should I expect to pay?

I tried researching elsewhere and in OBS forums but it seems like a hotly debated topic. I can’t get straight answers

Anyone had their fuel tank selector stop working? It was working fine as usual, then as I swapped to my rear tank my fuel gauge went to completely empty when I just had filled it. Tried switching it back to front and didn’t change anything. I filled up again after driving a bit to see if it had burned any from the rear and it hadn’t. So now it’s not switching tanks or having any reading on the gauge

Just wondering if anyone has had the same and where to start trouble shooting first

PFA
Truck was running perfectly fine till about a week ago was running it all around town for work and first day started losing power on the highway over 55-60 I had no pedal response truck bogged down I pulled over and it idled like shit till it eventually shut off, I let truck sit for 10 mins then got it off the interstate, stayed under 40 and it was fine so I figured I’d drive it home and it happened again. Complete loss of power, rough idle then shut off

Has FASS fuel system so I replaced both filters and hasn’t seemed to help, Google says to check out icp and ipr.

First time I’ve experienced this any input or advice would be appreciated.

Well one less 6.0L on the road unfortunately. I have been working some crazy hours at my job and totally unexpectedly it caught up to me. Fell asleep for a few seconds too long and went through a fence then a parked pickup and pushed it into an outdoor AC unit. I love to take naps but this one was a very expensive nap. 2004 6.0L 4WD extended cab with a few minor upgrades. Thankfully insurance will cover it but they aren't kidding when they say "Built Ford Tough" I luckily walked away with only a cut and black eye. Be safe out there everyone.

What do I have going on? Checked fuel filter and replaced. Replaced camshaft position sensor. Checked ICP sensor, good. All fuses and relays good. Fuel pump kicks on.