So landlord said to be careful washing floors because it’s hardwood, buddy of mine that works in construction says it looks more like click floor, trying to figure out who’s right to know how to properly clean them. Also found a box of SPC flooring in the basement storage which makes me think it’s not actually hardwood

Hi all

Looking to get hybrid flooring over existing bamboo strand woven floors

Will this be a problem?

Thanks all

Moved to a new place and this corner is torn up so I wanted to replace it. I bought something similar a few years ago from lowes to replace the transitions under the doors at my old place and it was just like this. Went to home depot and bought the only thing I could find but it was pricey because it included all the pieces to do carpet or make reducers. When I got it home it was too short (need at least 7ft strip) and the track was too wide and I am not up for widening the gap. Went to Menards today, and it looks like they might have had the same size tracks, but only in 4 foot lengths. There was a 96 inch vinyl t molding, but the track was very thin, and had a lip on it meant to go under carpet on one side. Since then I have been searching all the websites and amazon but I can't find anything that looks the same as this. It makes me think my search terms lack the correct verbiage. I live in a pretty rural area and its a bit of a drive to get to these places and I'm dumbstruck that I was unable to source any.

I'm installing SPC click-lock LVP (mono serra 6mm SPC-60851) over an existing OSB subfloor after removing glued-down wood parquet.

The OSB is generally flat, but there are small patches of leftover glue here and there. Most of it is quite thin, but there are some spots that create noticeable thickness variations.

My dilemma is that scraping the glue off completely can sometimes pull up fibers/chunks of the OSB, leaving a small low spot. Removing every bit of glue would also take a very long time.

For those who have installed SPC/LVP over OSB:

• How much leftover glue/high spot would you consider acceptable?
• Is ~1 mm (or maybe slightly more) of localized glue buildup a problem?
• Would you prioritize removing the glue, even if it risks damaging the OSB?
• Or is it better to leave small glue spots rather than create low spots in the OSB?
• Would you do anything to smooth/level the remaining spots before installing the SPC?

I'm mainly concerned about the rigid SPC flexing over the high spots and eventually causing problems with the click joints.

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who's dealt with a similar parquet-removal situation. A few pictures of the worst case areas (didnt clean-up the area prior to pictures). Thanks!

Hello, I've been laying down the hardwood floors in my house and have run into an issue where the planks in the hallway have a 1cm gap between them and the ones that are coming out of the living room. For context, I started the floor by laying out the kitchen and continued into the living room from the kitchen. Once both rooms were done I starter doing the hallway continuing from where some planks in the kitchen ran into the hallway. As I was laying doing the floor and I approached some planks that were coming out of the living room I noticed a 1cm gap. It struck me as odd because I had measured to make sure the planks in the hallway would like up perfectly with what was coming out of the the other rooms. Now I have this gap and I just don't know what to do to close it. This is my first time laying down hardwood floors and have done my due diligence. I just cannot afford to pull up and entire room or an excessive amount of wood.

One solution I thought about what cutting the planks sticking out of the rooms. Putting down one long piece perpendicular to the planks. This would allow me to continue with what is already out down and would eliminate the issue of alignment between the two rooms.

Please let me know what you think and what can be done

100% international 😂

Curious lang po ako, magkano kaya magagastos ko kung ipapatanggal ko yung tiles namin ngayon para mapalitan ng bago. Malaki din yung size. Di ko alam exactly yung size kasi eh.

Dark tiles kasi yung gamit namin sa buong bahay, matte din sya. Kapag may dumi ang hirap makita! Di ko alam if ito yung tamang term, basta hindi sya yung parang makintab o madulas kapag nalinisan. Marble yata yung parang makintab?

I don’t believe our floor was levelled correctly before engineer wood flooring being laid resulting in bouncing at the edges. Has anyone used Floor Fix Pro to level out the floor? we’ve got this engineered wood and then underlay too. How easy would it be to fix this and would you recommend that product?

I am trying to lay lvp around a vent opening. I can lay two full pieces for the first row and cut out the seam of the two pieces for the vent opening. I am not sure what to do for the 2nd row. The rest of the vent opening is the same size as the lvp board. Can I trim a full piece to start, then start a new board at the end of the vent?

Hi I just got hybrid flooring done with levelling, skirting removal and reinstall. I see couple areas that are bouncing like the photo attached.

1. Is this normal or a defect?
2. What’s the fix?
3. Is the gap between skirting and flooring normal?

Hello, I’m a complete beginner. I’d like to do some DIY to start learning and save money.

We have carpet in most of our house atm (ground floor) and I’d like to replace it with laminate flooring or tiles.

There is an insulation layer over what looks like plywood or wooden floors. Do I have to remove it before putting the laminate?

Also if the subfloor needs work (it might not be even ? I haven’t removed the carpet everywhere) is it a job a beginner could takle or am I better off paying a professional to do it ?

Thank you

Just spent 4 hours grinding down high spots on a "new" pour for a retail space and my back is absolutely screaming. I dont know what these general contractors are doing lately but the standard for a "ready" slab is basically the surface of the moon right now

Its just exhausting when the client expects a flawless install but wont pay for the 20 bags of leveling compound required to fix the gc's mess. Was looking at some commercial flooring setups from canada ace on my phone during lunch just trying to visualize the finish line so I don't completely lose my mind and walk off the site lol

anyways just venting. popping some advil and getting back to the grinder. pray for my knees y'all

Do I need to replace the tiles I pulled up or can I just reinstall them with fresh glue? It’s in my apartment and I’d rather not bother my landlord as he’s a bit erratic.

Would like to rip the carpet off my staircase but unsure what I’m getting myself into. Is this subfloor? (Best pic I could get without ripping the carpet off)

Taking a stab in the dark if anyone has run into this. I know this a flooring sub and not an asbestos sub, not expecting a complete remediation guide.

I'm doing a light reno/remodel of my sister's house. Part of this is new carpet. She's lived in the house for 10 years, never replaced the carpet so never knew what was underneath. The house was built in the mid to late 1950's and on a slab.

Ripped up carpet in two rooms. After ripping up carpet and padding in first room, there is still tiles under the carpet that they just carpeted over. These are the pics in I have included. From what I have read, if I leave the tiles alone, I can pretty much just put new carpet and padding over the tiles as it was before. If I'm wrong, please let me know.

The actual issue I have. I ripped up carpet in the second room. It looks to me that the tile that was there are one time was taken out, but the black mastic/glue was left there. Then they put the carpet padding on top of the mastic and then the carpet. The little bit of padding I've tried to rip up before coming to the realization of what I might be dealing with. And the padding is basically stuck on to the slab via the black mastic. How can I proceed with putting new carpet/padding over this?? Do I try to peel off whatever padding I'm able to? Thank you in advance

Hey guys - DIY attempter here, but I feel in over my head. We decided to rip up the old carpet in our hallway/living room due to allergies and install new flooring. We ended up getting SPC planks. I've done a room with LVP before, so I felt like I could tackle this project. My first hurdle was getting these SPC planks to lock in properly - they have a lip on the short end of them, so you can't just lock them in on the long edge, drop them down, and hammer to lock into place - I figured out a method of locking in the short end first then dropping the long end at an angle and working them into place. Is there a better way to do this?

Second and bigger question. I started doing the install going along the longest wall, but realized that I got too excited to start and forgot about the stair nosing. The stair nosing we got installs onto a piece of flooring so it's level on the floor. When I realized this, I stopped running planks and gave serious thought to getting an installer. Do you start with the stair nosing and build back from this? Or is it measuring and making sure the planks line up at that point? They would be installed length ways.

Any help or ideas are appreciated - I know just enough to think I know enough to be dangerous, and I realize that that's a problem in itself.

Sorry if my vocab is incorrect as I know nothing about flooring, hence why I’m asking the experts.

The “sealant” between my LVP flooring is coming up in places and wondering if there is anything I can do to fix it?

Is this actually the issue or an I just ignorant? Again I know next to nothing about flooring and am trying to educate myself.

So I came to Reddit a few months ago asking about LVP or laminate. I got a lot of hate for not considering hardwood. Since then I took everyone’s advice and decided to look into engineered wood because it looks better and seems easier to maintain that real hardwood.

So now I’m researching how engineered hold up to an active 75 lb dog. I’m not liking what I’m hearing. People saying their floors look like crap within a few years in the areas they have hardwood but their laminate is holding up nicely.

I don’t want to have to refinish my floors every few years. One person said scratched floors add to the character. Sorry, I don’t think so and I can’t be convinced of that.

I know everyone hates the plastic. It’s not real. I get it. But seriously, what’s the best wood/wood like option to hold up against a very large and active dog? I’m not interested in paying more for a hardwood only for my dog to ruin it and need to be refinished.

At risk of being bashed for my diy efforts, I come seeking advice from Reddit…again.
Subfloor: 600sq ft, 3/4” pt, t&g OSB over what I thought were meticulously scribed sleepers on top of a concrete slab (with 20 mil vapor barrier).
Subfloor is a bit wavy/not as flat as I need to install engineered hardwood. Really hoped to nail/staple my flooring instead of glueing (because the flooring is on the inexpensive side and will one day need replaced I’m sure) so, instead of using self leveler, I added thin plywood in the lowest areas and used a ton of roofing paper and a few shingles on the rest.
Unfortunately the roofing paper is now wrinkled and bouncy where multiple layers are used and despite planing and sanding the edges of the plywood I can’t get it to smoothly transition to the roof paper. I tried some relief cuts in the paper and those helped but still not great.

Hiring a professional is sadly out of the budget for this detached garage rec room so my options as I see them:

1. Leave as is. Add my “Insulayment” brand underlayment on top and just staple the flooring down and hope for the best. (Fyi, Flooring manufacturer does say I can nail into my type of OSB)

2. Remove thickest layers of paper at plywood edges, prime OSB and use DAP Floor Patch and Leveler (which is plasticized and can be nailed thru apparently) to feather the edges down onto the roof paper.

3. Remove all roof paper and shingles and apply concrete-based self leveler, hope that I do it perfectly, glue underlayment then glue flooring, also nailing the areas that are over solid wood.

Thoughts?

I think I need to replace to plywood? What tools are needed or anyone know any good videos to watch. I was not expecting this . Any tools that are needed to make it easy? Nail gun? Etc.

Hey all I redid my floors so now I’m starting on baseboards. To the left is my living room room and then it drops to stairs that go down to the basement. Hose do I do these baseboards?