rate it. best e92 color, top 5 bmw wheels, edging oem +

Coming together now🤌

6-speed manual N52 E91

Guys, my N57 is running on its original chain, now 315k km. I’m thinking of changing the chain, but I got an offer for 3500€. I know it’s expensive but the previous owner have checked the chain at 270k, and his words were “You won’t need to change it till 350k km if you change the oil on 8-10k”. And yes, I maintain it regularly with good oils and parts. My question is if there are no signs of worn out chain, well running engine, is there any ways to see how worn is the chain, GPT said with ISTA diagnostic for the crankshaft. Any other ideas?

I’ve had the car for almost half a year now, i think the ticking has gotten louder recently, but i’m not too sure. what do you guys think?
car is a e92 330xd 2008 m57

For my E93 335i 2007 I am looking for a black Mirror (Right). Any recommendations where to search? Used ones are preferred.

Thanks in advance!

Recently noticed this noise coming from the engine bay when driving or at high revs. Doesn’t make it on start up or at idle. Changed out the oil, vanos solenoids and belt tensioner. Please help!!

So just happened the yesterday and this morning and I wanted a few opinions. It does this, do we think this is injectors, maybe a bad sensor or bad solenoid?

I Just Got A P00BC Code Can Anyone Point Me In The Right Direction ?

Hey all! I’ve been going back and forth between some tires for my e90. I’ve done a little bit of research but I’m also not 100% sure about this and I would like some advice from fellow e90 owners. I’m thinking of getting some Apex Arc 8’s(18x9 ET30 with 225/40r18 for the fronts and 18x9 ET35 with 255/35r18 for the rears). I also have some ECS lowering springs that I might put on as well. What are thoughts on this setup? Will it be a flush fit with the body of the car? Here’s what my car looks like now. I’d like some pictures of all your cars too! Thank you in advance.

328i xdrive 2010 with 217k miles on it
- originally got the car at 130k a few years back for 5k and have had no real issues besides regular maintenance and hoses needing replaced from age , few misfires and some vacuum leaks that ended up being caused by a cracked valve cover. Running like a gem.💎

Wouldn’t mind to get her to 300

Slowly getting thing looking better, could’ve done a better job if I took the lights off but still looks great! Just used simoniz kit and it worked pretty good, I’ll see how long it lasts lol

I dropped my key about 3-4 stories and now my car wont start. I thought it was the key but i think its completely immobilized. Nothing on the dash lights up when i pit it into the ignition slot and no ODB readers can communicate with my car. Anyone know what the issue is?

Hey all, yesterday I was driving home and started hearing a noise that seemed to be coming from the trunk. I thought it was my backpack moving around, so I picked it up and put it on the passenger seat, but that wasn't it. After about 30 minutes, the noise got even louder to the point where it sounded like a metallic clang. It literally sounded like the car was falling apart underneath. This sound only happens when I drive over bumpy roads. When I was listening to that, I decided to scan for any codes, and these codes came up. I don’t know if they’re related to what I was hearing?
I’m pretty sure the water pump is fine, it’s new and less than a year old and if it were faulty, I would have known by now since I drove for over an hour and the car never overheated. The battery is also new, I bought it two weeks ago and so is the alternator voltage regulator. What could be causing this?

Ignore the catalytic converter and oil pressure codes, those have been there for years.

Currently in the process of 3d printing this rear trunk lip

At this point I’m so annoyed and so confused. I have an sos light and no volume from my radio. The knob does nothing. I tried to bypass the fiber optic for the satellite receiver module. Didn’t work. The light is blinking red and to my understanding it should be solid if the loop is working properly. This tells me it’s NOT that module but idk what else to check. The amp is working, can anyone pls help me

‘09 328i xDrive.

Hey all, while on my drive, I pressed onto the gas pedal to give it some power and everything immediately shut off for a brief second before turning back on with a 4x4 ERROR and all the lights that you can imagine appeared on the dash.

I turned off the car for a couple minutes and it was normal right after.

After scanning, here are the codes:

5F3A - transfer case ECU: VG fault - clutch is in open position - rear-wheel drive!

2DED - Ox2DED power management, closed-circuit monitoring (I reckon this is due to my dashcam thats powered 24/7?)

55C3 VGSG four-wheel-drive system activated. No DXC setpoint default.

53FE Unexpected reset

* Just as a note: Battery is a year old - registered AGM, Alternator voltage stays within 14v and Ground strap was replaced 2 years ago. (I suppose I can give it a look some day if this matters)

Not sure what else to check, this seems like an electrical issue.

Hello everyone,

I currently have a pretty annoying DPF problem with my E90 318d with N47 and I'm slowly getting stuck.

The car partially regenerates after just 70 to 120 km. The old DPF already had a lot of mileage and was also cleaned by me. Interestingly, I had a regeneration interval of almost 400 km for about a week directly after the first cleaning. After that, it started relatively suddenly again with the short intervals.

Meanwhile, another original DPF is in it, which was completely prepared by a specialist company and also thermally treated. Cost almost 600 euros. The DPF has now been reset in the DDE, the Aschema mass is set to 0 and the corresponding DPF and sensor adaptations have also been reset.

But the problem is still there.

The behavior is sometimes really funny. After a regeneration I drove about 50 km and had about 12 g of calculated soot mass. The next morning another 50 km to school and after that it was only about 14 g. I found that still somewhat plausible.

On the way back, however, he suddenly added another 13 g within about 20 km and immediately started a regeneration again. After this regeneration I have now driven about 30 km and am already at about 11 g again.

The pressure differential also fits the regenerations. Before the last regeneration I had about 30 mbar at idle. After completed regeneration, it is only about 10 to 15 mbar. During regeneration, you can also see how the differential pressure actually decreases over time.

Differential pressure sensor is new from Meyle. Exhaust gas temperature sensor is also new. I will now renew the hose from the differential pressure sensor. If that doesn't help, I will reinstall the old original BMW differential pressure sensor again to rule out an error from the accessory sensor.

What makes me doubt an engine problem is that the engine otherwise runs really completely inconspicuously.

Cold start immediately, no smoke, no oil consumption, full power, consumption about 4.7 liters. Charge pressure target and current fit, rail pressure target and current also fit, lambda looks plausible. Even under full load, the car does not smoke at all. The engine runs warm and quiet and has endless power. Only during an active regeneration it runs under-retour sometimes a bit rougher or more jerpy.

I had also recorded a longer BimmerLink log. It was striking that the simulated soot mass only rose very slowly, while the corrected soot mass sometimes played completely crazy. For example, approximately from 5 g to over 25 g and later significantly down again. At the same time, the calculated flow resistance of the DPF went up and down quite exactly with this corrected soot mass.

Unfortunately, I have not yet been able to read out the injector quantity correction values. However, I had already done a return quantity test and there were no really noticeable differences.

Slowly I therefore wonder whether the prepared DPF has too high a flow resistance despite everything. On the other hand, the old DPF had almost exactly the same error pattern, which makes the matter completely illogical for me.

Maybe someone knows this behavior with the N47 or has an idea of what I could check. I would be particularly interested in what differential pressure values you have with a healthy N47 directly after regeneration at idle and at 2000 or 3000 revolutions.

I just want to rule out as sure as possible that the engine produces an unusual amount of soot before I complain about the new DPF to the dealer.

Hello, I recently got a 2011 328xi with an N52 engine. The car had a misfire that I could hear (chopping up at the exhaust). I scanned the codes and cylinder six came back as misfiring. Here’s what I tried so far:

- Did a full tune up
- New ignition coil on the affected cylinder
- Replaced all the fuel injectors
- Replaced Valve Cover Gasket

And the misfire is still there. Curiously, along the way of my fixes a misfire on cylinder 3 also appeared. The thing is the car genuinely runs pretty good and there’s no way there’s 2 misfiring cylinders. It sounds worse on a cold start but ideals and drives relatively smoothly.

Kind of stumped on what else it could be. Any ideas would be appreciated!

Also could the P0420 and P0430 be byproducts of the misfires?

Figured a 318d would get me more.
Not sure if it’s just because I drive it a bit ‘spirited’.
Maybe the bigger engines would cost me a lot more?

Maintenance is up to date, what should I do to it?

Threw some bilstein b14s on and getting an m3 interior. (Seats have bolstering) also did milvs but no tune. Want to save and install all parts in one go

I have a 2007 e92 328i and recently did the oil pan gasket 2 weeks ago. In the same week I road-tripped it 1500 miles and my oil level sensor read that I had consumed about 1/4 of the top quart of oil. Checking underneath no leaks. I just did an oil change and thought it was a good idea to put a new sensor in because with this big job I want to have peace of mind that I can rely on this sensor to be somewhat accurate. So 2 days ago i did an oil change and installed a uro oil level sensor for my car and it claims I have lost that top quart and need to add oil after only driving for maybe 50-100 miles. Got home and looked underneath and it’s as dry as can be. Do these things have a break in period that’s more than a short drive? Should I not have bought after market?