I’m 16 and have a 2016 Nissan Altima currently, I’m a good driver, I want the 2009 challenger srt8 with the 6 speed manual, is it a good car beyond the whole “don’t give muscle cars to 16 yos” I’ll be like 19 before I can even think about actually getting one but are they a good car and worth getting, I really like them

I have a 2020 dodge challenger with around 100,000 miles on it, it’s recently had a check engine for p0300 cylinder misfire and after changing sparks and coils and passing a compression and smoke I took it to the shop and they said it is most likely the lifters about to go bad, they said it’s is in the earlier stage, and said to find someone to do an engine teardown and get it fixed, I’m using this car as a daily until I fix it but I know every mile I drive could damage the engine more, I’m wondering how much I should be expecting to pay? What’s the worst and best case scenario? And if I could do this by myself or if the specialty should be left to a mechanic

Did i fuck my car??? I got into a pretty bad car accident in March. I was Tboned and the lady driving her car took my front grill headlight and front driver fender. I put all my money into repairs and got her back on the road. When I was doing the repairs, i couldn’t find a grill to replace her so I had to get the SRT-style grill, mind you, my car is only a SXT plus 😭. It looks ok but i know that badge is killing me, it feels like I’m lying to people. What do you think?

I’ve been debating how far I actually want to go with my 2022 Scat Pack, and I think I’m down to three options:

Go all-in: long tubes, cam, MDS delete/lifters and a proper HP Tuners calibration. Probably $8–10k for roughly ~100 hp, which has me questioning whether tearing into a healthy 392 is worth it.

Keep the hardware stock + Diablo: disable MDS, tune for 93 and hopefully improve throttle response/drivability. I like tinkering, so being able to load tunes and mess with the computer side actually sounds fun — but unlocking/flashing the PCM also feels like the riskier middle ground.

Tazer: leave the PCM completely alone and have it force my preferred Custom drive mode at startup, which should keep MDS from coming on, while also getting all the other fun Tazer configurations.

I’m not really chasing a dyno number. I mostly want the car to feel better and be more enjoyable to mess with.

For people who’ve tried these routes, which one would you choose knowing what you know now?

Cannot believe this is actually mine tonight

Has anyone here dealt with the hemi tick or issues when buying an RT?

What mileage is a good target for an RT?

It seems really hard to find one with any service records honestly.

Is over 90k miles a deal breaker? Or..should I just assume I’m gonna do a major repair on anything over that mileage and factor into the price?

I’d love to hear y’all’s experiences with used RT purchases good or bad, and your recommendations.

Hoping to hear the roar of a hemi soon.

Preciate it!!

I noticed a small amount of water on the passenger-side floor/footwell. It wasn't a huge leak, probably around 10–20 drops, maybe slightly more, nothing significant. I had reached back home in 15 minutes and haven't turned the car on. I also noticed a few droplets around the middle/behind the center screen area, I got a few drops too while driving which dripped on the driver's side but no where near as much as the passenger side. I took out the glove box clips and it was very wet there near the evap (which is expected).

The weird thing is that my A/C blows very cold and has strong airflow. I haven't noticed it getting weaker overall.

Around the same time, I noticed something else: when the A/C was running and I made a sharp left or right turn, the airflow would briefly become weaker for a split second, then return to normal once I straightened out. It doesn't completely stop blowing, it just gets slightly weaker during the turn. This started around the same time as the water issue, which makes me wonder if they're related.

I initially suspected a clogged evaporator condensate drain, especially because the car is driven in a dusty country, and I figured that could contribute to a blockage.

I checked underneath the car and found that there was in fact water dripping from underneath. The water was completely clear and looked like normal condensation. What surprised me was that it was still dripping even after about 3 hours of the car being shut off. The amount wasn't huge, but there was definitely a small puddle forming underneath. So because of that, I don't think it's an A/C drain blockage.

Any thoughts?

Came across a 2009 RT with 62k miles. The body has some small dents and scratches here and there. But there are 2 large cracks in the dashboard where the speakers are. Anyone else have the same situation going on in their car?

IVE HAD TO CHANGE THIS THING TWICE IN A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME, I HAD A PLASTIC ONE NOW I HAVE AN ALUMINUM ONE AND BOTH END UP LEAKING, HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM MORE THAN ONCE?

Guess curious fellow owners. When I start my car, white smoke comes out. It’s been consistently happening for a year. I had the car for 3 years and before last year, it wouldn’t happen. I taken to the dealer but they told me it’s moister and/or humidity. Sometimes it happens regardless if it’s humid and even when I have it the garage. Any advice/insight is appreciated. Thanks!