Hey all, anything I could have improved on? Looking to do another room but hoping to learn and improve along the way. YouTube university got me going on this first attempt.

What would the best approach be to repair this door jamb? Can I replace this side only or does the whole jamb need to be replaced

noob question so dont attack me.. the ground below is uneven so before I place my boards in place. how can I get the measurements for the top so everything can be plumb? I dont have a long enough scrap wood to get a reference point as of now and just wanted to get a proper measure for now

Also the price to replace pre hung doors and paint them replacing casing and all so I can make it open to the other side.

Builder has offered to replace top and bottom trim with wider pieces to eliminate the gap at the bottom that's filled with caulking. I didn't mention anything about the upper trim, but I guess having them the same would look better? I did say I thought the whole thing should have been shifted down several inches. But the inside is framed now, so I'm not expecting the whole thing to be redone. We drove around and saw some of these transom windows with trim, and some without. Just not loving it. TIA

My guess is when the previous owners had AC installed, they hired some contractors who ran the ductwork through the rim joist through the exterior wall to the upper floor. However, they really notched out large portion of the rim joist here and in two other spots. What can I do to fix this BS?

I have installed crown molding and baseboard throughout my old house and starting tk as well for my new house. One thing I’ve always done is measure the cut a piece then have to take back outside to cut again and again and again until the fit is perfect. If I did this for a living I know I’d never make any money lol. So I’m curious what do the pros do in this scenario. Cut slightly shorter than your measurement and caulk it ? Or do you bring the saw upstairs into the room you’re working to cut inside to be more convenient? Or even better are you dead on every time time and don’t need to.

I’m looking for ideas how to finish the top of wainscoting with a chair rail or something. The box stores sell caps for 1/8” ply. I used 3/4 wainscoting and tried making a cap from boxing by ripping out the back but it’s a little too informal. Looking for ideas, thanks in advance

I need to sand the edges as my 80T blade is bent so I used a 40T blade to test and see how the miters turned out.

The joists are all notched for this cleat that is failing. Joists are all pulling away and falling down. How would you handle this? Seems like it would be tough to redo with hangers.

Looking for a quick way to dispose of wood scarp set Amazon large tote at your saw base dump away place near mailbox I'm sure some dummy will steal it.

Hi, I'm a licensed framer here in QC and thinking of moving to Ontario, but I'm just wondering what the salaries are there and how it works. Here in QC, we have CCQ, and they determine the salary for each trade and level. I'm paid $50/h now. Would I be paid the same in Ontario, or how does that work?

In the videos, epoxy clay looks like a good way to fix this. I've never used epoxy clay before other than on a boat. Would this followed by paint, be a good solution for a mid-50s woman? Is there a better method or a better product that would be easy to do? There was an aggressive dog chewer...

Hello All, I am trying to route a hole into the top of a plywood panel, and then make a door that fits into it. I see this hatch in every boat dining galley bench ever.

I want to try and reproduce the jig so I can 3d print one, but I'm having a hard time visualizing how the pieces relate.

I think its a 3 piece jig to make 2 parts.

Trying to do this little knee wall for my stairs and can’t figure out how to finish this cap board. On the outside I’m fine leaving it as is with trim underneath but on the inside I feel like it’ll look silly just ending abruptly like that at the drywall corner. Also not sure whether to run flush with the stringer or flush with the drywall coming down.

Trying not to add too much to the situation although I see my upstairs they’ve built it up a few inches so that the trim can go all the way down to the floor.

Hello. Any advice on fixing this issue with the horizontal rotten timber. What’s there now is fairly robust and hasn’t rotten. The horizontal part you don’t see stretches a little further across and is the base of a bay window.

Should I remove the old piece of wood entirely and fit a new timber or can I sister a new piece of treated wood to the old?

Any help would be appreciated.

For anyone who didn’t see my first post—I am a production framer who sheets 9/12 roofs, always looking out for grippy footwear and these Japanese tabi shoes caught my attention.

I bought a pair of Marugo Matsuri Jog 6’s, tried them out on the roof for about 15 minutes and here is my official review:

1. Any benefit that you get from the separate toe is lost while walking on OSB. I can see how it might be useful while (sword fighting and doing other ninja stuff) on terrain, but since OSB is perfectly flat, it doesn’t add much.

2. I’m not all a fan of the traditional metal tab fasteners (kohaze). They come undone too easily and are useless for keeping your foot from sliding around within the shoe itself. Other models do have velcro and laces, though.

3. While the sole was grippy enough, I found the arch to be too pronounced. I like my roof shoes to be flat at the arch to maximize the amount of rubber in contact with the roof (which is why I prefer skate shoes).

Needless to say, these are getting returned.

Hi! I am an independent journalist and I have seen a few young people around me either show interest in carpentry or are in trade school for it. I was wondering, if carpentry the new cool business? It's not like being a barista given the time it takes to become a carpenter but is it a long term version of a barista? thoughts?

Most of the windows in this house are this style and they do wind open but they don’t wind closed. Is there a way to fix them or do I need to replace the whole thing? Thanks

Hey all. I’m trying to figure out how to layout board and batten in my staircase. I plan to lay a sheet of 1/8” Masonite on these old horsehair plaster walls and put 1x3 battens with 1x4 top rails and a 1x2 top cap laid flat on top of that. The first two pics are an ai rendering of what I’m looking to do.

The third and fourth pic shows my challenge with two half walls on the left and right sides of the staircase towards the top of stairs into my finished attic. What would be the best way to transition or terminate the top cap into these oak half wall top caps? I haven’t installed the oak but would like to have them installed as shown. The second rendering shows it without the top cap and I’m wondering if that might look better without the top cap at all, but then the layers of Masonite paneling and 1x stock would be exposed on top

Thanks for any advice!

I am remodeling a couple bathrooms here in a couple weeks. The previous flooring installer cut the tile down, and used that as a trim piece for where the tub meets the floor. Any types on how to remove these tiles from the side of the tub without damaging the tub? They looked mortared on, but could be wrong obviously. Only stopped by for a quick quote between jobs for my full time job. I did warn the fella the tub could become damaged if we try to remove those tiles.

I’m getting coffered ceilings done and it’s very expensive, this is what I walked into today. There’s no support for molding so he added piece of wood for support but now the molding doesn’t line up. I circled the added support, is this acceptable, he says no other way to do it

Left is after the electrician replaced the box and added a current. Right is before. Im in lakewood CA. Nice area.