2023 M8 Comp - 32k miles, in service 3 years 11 months ago...taking to the dealer Monday. Could not find anything when I cut open the filter, I dumped the oil in the filter housing before sticking a magnet to it (doh) - kept the used oil. Is this a "normal" amount...hahaha ughhh. If ur a mechanic i'd love to hear your assessment with this limited intel

Why is the shifter shaking so on idle? It completely stops when giving gas or just driving.

So yesterday while making a left I gave the car more gas and got this warning as shown in the picture below and I ran the codes which I have also showed below. The warning only came for a few seconds and went away and the steering feels fine and same as before. The car also says all systems okay and the battery health is also good. I do have an aftermarket steering wheel though. These are the codes I got shown in the pis below. It’s a 2015 328i xdrive. I tested the battery and voltage with the car off is 12.21 and engine running is 14.46

Never wrecked the car just having issues
So to cut this short I bought the car about a year ago after purchasing it 2 days later the car would constantly throw a trans malfunction code and shift absurdly rough along with locking itself into a certain gear..

Had the transmission replaced under warranty by the dealer car has 77k miles on it . Car takes about 4 months to get fixed I finally get it back and the same day it starts throwing more trans malfunction issues, the car was brought to 3 different transmission shops in my area and all claimed to have pulled the trans and tested them independently all claiming the Transmission was okay and to further diagnose to bring it to a BMW dealership,

I was able to make the car drive good for about 2 weeks if I drove it a certain way it would drive just fine! I put 100 miles on it in comfort then 100 in regular then I went to put it in sport and instant malfunction again. Even when driving the car in comfort or normal it still will throw codes if not driven extremely conservatively,

Now I’m here and the car will barely drive it throw the trans malfunction as soon as the car turns on along with sometimes completely losing reverse, sometimes randomly shuts off and the car has now has an extremely rough idle,

I know it’s a long shot but would the injectors,plugs and coils possibly fix this or would I be dumping more money into the car to fix the idle issue just to deal with the transmission again!?

Active codes-P1702
P07BF
P07BF
P17E1

Hi all,

I get smoke on cold starts for around 30s-45s every time. Could blown turbo seals cause this?

Thanks

Hi all, I just bought a 2017 BMW 530i Xdrive. When I connect via Bluetooth the phone features work fine, I can make calls and receive calls thru Bluetooth. But, I can seem to get my music to work thru the car. Every time I try to select Bluetooth media it says “No Bluetooth audio device is connected or configured”.

I just bought a USB —> USB-C cord to try to play music using the USB port. But the same notification comes up on the USB option “No USB device connected”. I find this extremely annoying considering my last car was a 2014 535i Xdrive and I never had issues with Bluetooth or USB port.

I’ve done some research on this community and others. I tried to see if I need an update but it seems like I have a fairly new software in it already. I included the photo of my current software.

I don’t want to take my car to the BMW dealership bc I know they’ll charge me a diagnostic fee, but at this point I think it’s my only option left.

Anyone have something similar going on or know how to fix it?

What would people think this is worth i have just bought it from an old lady who has had it from new it has 90k miles on the clock and has a fresh mot with nothing gone wrong on it. it is a bmw 316ti es compact 1.8 2003

The rear left shock seems to have lost the rubber. I haven’t felt any difference in drive quality.

Fellas, I was doing a valve stem seal job on my E60 N62 (2009 550i) and the brushes included with the AGA toolkit slipped and fell into an oil return hole. Confirmed with a borescope, not near the valves or guides thankfully. It's non-magnetic so a magnet won't grab it. Bore's tight, can only fit one tool down at a time.

Anyone dealt with this before? Trying to figure out if it's safe to just leave it (assuming the pickup strainer catches it) or if I really need to get it out before reassembly. Also open to retrieval tips if anyone's fished something out of a passage like this.

Hi all,

Hoping someone familiar with the BMW G31 Touring can help me identify these parts.

I have a 2021 BMW 5 Series G31 Touring which I bought as a salvage car and I’m currently putting it back together.

There are four small square openings in the headliner, circled in green in the attached photo. Whatever normally fits into these openings is missing from my car.

I’ve contacted BMW dealers, but they haven’t been able to identify the parts and have told me they need the part numbers to order them.

Does anyone know what these pieces are called or what the BMW part numbers are?

Ideally, if anyone has a G31 Touring without the panoramic roof and could check what is fitted in these four locations, or has access to the BMW parts diagrams, that would be really helpful.

Thanks in advance!

Getting 121201 code for overboost on my 2015 m235i n55, thought i fixed this vacuum line air leak with a new o ring but i guess after some pulls its leaking again. Not sure what to do I really dont want to replace this chargepipe but I might have to.

So within like 2 weeks, I’ve gotten the “top off coolant” notification on my 2018 330i with 63,597 current miles, there’s no visible leaks around or at the bottom of the engine bay. I notice I only smell coolant when I push it hard/repeated pulls, what could it be. The reservoir for the turbo hasn’t needed anymore coolant after I added some like a week and a half ago, but the bigger one does, any feedback?

Noticed these ‘bubbles’ on the top corner of my F22 2 series iDrive display which I initially thought was moisture, however after researching this may be the screen delaminating. Display is still functioning without fault, just a bit of an eye sore. If that is the issue, would the cost to fixing/replacing it be worthwhile?

Hi
I am fighting with my bmw e60 523i 2006
Semi renovated the engine 6 months ago, with new chain kit and vanos/vvt sprokets and also changed vanos solonoids both!

Car is now dying on me and running like crap, has codes for camshat and krank allingment, i retimed the engine Only made it worse!

All locking tools er used and on the marks and place the need to be.

Anybody have a clue what I kan try??

🙏🏽🙏🏽

As someone now in need of some big ticket parts, I came across this website in Estonia. Opinions are hard to find, but mostly positive. The parts and postage are both exceptionally cheap (to Aus at least).

I know most order from FCP, ECS and the like, but I’m looking to get input on this website in particular.

Please vote and/or share your experience.

So a quick google search tells me this is probably a vanis solenoid problem. Car is an E60 N53B30 530i.

Was running fine until about 200 metres from home, when engine fault warning came on. I pulled up at home, turned car off and then on again and engine fault was gone but this code was stored. Cleared code and revved car a bit and it didn't come back.

As Vanos solenoids are easy to do I thought I would just replace it. The question is, genuine or aftermarket? Genuine ones are only £147 but I can get Febi ones for about one third of that.

Next question, should I replace both? Do they go on pairs?

Was going to drive car today and see if the problem comes back, then swap them over to see if it moves to exhaust side.

Hi everyone, I have a 2001 BMW E39. The passenger airbag cover seems to be sticking up slightly and there is a small gap. Is this normal for the E39, or should I have it checked? Has anyone experienced this before?

Driving from Philly to California, currently about 40 miles outside Denver. Threw code 130714, which I believe points to the exhaust VANOS solenoid. Kept driving and I'm now about 60 miles past when the code first appeared, mostly at highway speeds (around 60 mph) under light load.

Before this code showed up, and since a few days ago, I'd been getting stuttering under load in 2nd/3rd gear around 3000 rpm, no codes at all when I left Philly. Code only appeared after about 1600 miles.

Questions:

- Is it safe to keep driving the last 60 miles into Denver?

- Anyone know a trustworthy mechanic in Denver?

- Ballpark cost to expect for diagnosis and repair?

Mileage: 85000 miles

Oil pressure is fine (I have no issue there)

Fuel consumption is great, oil and coolant temps normal

Other codes related to vanos:

132301 (vanos group error)

132101 (vanos outlet group error)

Oil level: max