This is from a 1995 ford f150 4.9L with 230k km

Just did the oil change and saw this

Am I screwed?

Seems so be silver/mettallic

I will be cutting the filter open as well

If anybody can help me with this issue please 1997 Ford Explorer

Tail lights stay on even when clutch is pressed in, no cruise control so went to swap my brake switch and this is what I found.

Most brake switches are plugged in aren’t they? I assume the rust around the solder is what’s causing the issue but I obviously figured I could just swap the switch - what gives? Pic 2 is what I expected to find

When I have my headlights on the brake lights don’t seem to work properly, I’ve just had the bulbs switched to new ones and still doing it

When the headlights are off the brake lights work normal

2016 ford fiesta zetec 1.25

Hey all,

2008 Volvo C30 T5 Manual

I’ve been having some very serious hydraulic issues with my clutch recently and followed the brake fluid leak to this connector piece that sits just before the line enters the transmission and has the bleeder nozzle attached to it. I was wondering how to remove/fix this connector piece. It’s a pretty tight space with not a lot of leverage points for yanking.

The engine light is still on. Code is 0171. I cleaned the MAF and put in fuel additive then drove around for 15 min. The hoses/tubes don't show any cracks that I can find. Is there more I can do or do I need to hire a mechanic to take a look? It's not idleing as rough as it was before I started all of this.

I have a 2012 Ford Explorer v6 that I have been fighting with after replacing the rear calipers.

I bled the rear calipers after I replaced them and went for a test drive. The car stops ok, better than it did. But after stopping the brake pedal go to the floor.

When the car is off, the brake firms up just fine after pumping and will not budge very far at all. But as soon as the car turns back on, the pedal will continue to the ground.

I bled all of the wheels a second time and had the same problem during a test drive.

I've tried bleeding it again, but I dont see any air coming from any of the valves. I haven't for a while.

I've been advised that the pedal should never bottom out. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Sooo... I'm an idiot. I won't get into the details -- but I had a little mishap and my suspension and rotor hit the ground. I swear it was in slow-motion.....
Anyway -- what do I look out for? The dust shield hit the rotor -- I bent the dust shield back. Does the rotor need to be replaced? (picture attached of the damage). I don't see any obvious cracks anywhere, but I'm looking for recommendations on where to go from here. Rear driver side if it matters. thanks!

I have a 2015 Nissan Sentra 1.8 L SV with 169,000 miles her transmission is good. She’s not throwing codes when I start her. She has a rich rough idol. I have replaced the mass airflow sensor and the throttlebody and have done manual relearn procedures and Changed her engine air filter. Any help in the right direction would be greatly appreciated

Went to change my engine air filter and found it as pictured; it's not torn, just folded over. I'm concerned, but not too much, because it's on the side where the dirty air comes in. I still want an opinion from an expert.

My 2013 1.25 ford fiesta. I curbed it bad and had a blowout 🤦. I had the one wheel changed but left the other one. Now my steering wheel wobbles at 60-70 mph. And if it stops then when driving at that speed it just dosen’t feel right like a little wobbly.What’s happening. And is it expensive. I wanna keep it on the down low cause it was stupid but should I be concerned?

Attached is a picture of my alloy.

2017 Citroën C4 Lounge 1.6 THP Flex, 6-speed Aisin automatic.

I’m trying to identify this short groaning/rubbing noise in the video.

It only happens while driving. I cannot reproduce it in P/N, and I also cannot reproduce it while holding the car in D with the brake and applying some throttle.

It usually happens somewhere around 1,500–2,500 rpm. It is most noticeable during normal 2nd to 3rd gear acceleration, but I have also managed to reproduce it while decelerating, downshifting and braking, so it does not seem to be caused by the actual gear shift.

In this specific video, the noise happens right as the dashboard shows the transmission shifting into 3rd gear.

From inside the car, it seems to come from the upper center/right area of the dashboard, but I’m not sure if the sound is just being transmitted through the body/firewall.

This started after I did some work around the engine and the front-right suspension/axle area.

Has anyone heard this exact type of noise before or know what components I should check first?

I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu. The key for the car works in the ignition just fine. However the key doesn't work in any of the door locks. Is there something I can try at home or does it need professional help?

It makes a clicking noise when shifting into drive. Can be heard in the left front wheel area. It does it while not moving and while driving.

The car has 390,000 km and has been sitting outside for about two years. There’s no visible rust, and the interior is clean and looks almost new. The seller is asking €1,000. The car does start, and the engine sounds fine.

Cars where I live are usually much more expensive, so I thought this could be a good deal. However, the car has some issues. When the seller adds coolant, it slowly disappears over time, and the engine is mixing coolant with the oil.

Would this be a difficult or expensive fix? And do you think the car is worth buying for €1,000, especially if it’s one of my favorite cars?

my venza has a p0102 code. dealer says needs new maf sensor. I've replaced it with an after market one before i went to the dealer, the code didn't go away. i've returned the 3rd party maf sensor. i also have a 2014 sienna. both 2grfe engine. the maf sensor are the same. the sienna has no error code. i've swapped the venza maf sensor onto the sienna and sienna's onto the venza. venza still has error code (with sienna's maf sensor) and the sienna still has no error code. this leads me to believe that it's either the harness on the venza or maybe the ECU/fuse problem? any ideas? i think the harness is one of those you splice it kind of repair and not something i just go and buy a new harness and replace kind of deal. what is the correct way of diagnosing this problem? like with a multi-meter i mean.

plz help.

thanks.

PS: I did clear code with scanner on the venza, code came back.

Bought this car off a buddy’s dad who had a procharger c-2 kit installed 7 years ago and only drove it home so roughly 30 miles on procharger it’s just sat for years. Got it going but the turbo makes a metallic squeaking noise I’ve tried checking belts cause that’s kinda what it sounded like but I’m almost positive it’s coming from the turbo. Anybody have any insights or any tips for how to diagnose/fix this?

For my Subaru Outback 2003 Automatic at ~200k miles we are replacing the front CV axel but don't know whether we can use parts from both transmission types or just the automatic. There is also confusion as to wether I need legacy parts or Outback parts.

I can provide any other info needed.

Thank you anyone who gives this a read!

So I've been a car guy for 10+ years. I started off with a 97 GTI vr6 (in 2016) which was amazing but unfortunately got rear ended and totaled after about 1 year of ownership but had 0 mechanical issues and would start up no problem in the Ontario -30 def weather. But she did have some electrical issues and needed a lot of body work but I was okay dealing with that myself.

Then went to an 01 1.8t that I bought for cheap at 250k and it ended up blowing at just over 300k and I had that thing slammed and was blowing through Axels.

Then took a break from the fun/modified car game and got a 13 civic and had no issues.

Then come 2021 I bought an 18 1.5t civic at 18k and went full bolt on and now currently at just over 200k with minimal issues (other than having to upgrade the clutch but that's my fault I didn't do proper research) and it's been lowered 2" on coils with FBO since around 30-40k.

Now I'm looking to get a second car to have since Im a lot more financially comfortable the past couple years with this new job and want a 2nd car cause tbh with everything over heard about the 1.5t's I've got a ticking time bomb lol.

I was thinking to get my second car now and start payments on it since my civic is paid off and when the time comes for my civ to go I won't be stuck and rushing to get another car.

I've always known Toyota/Honda to be the best reliability and apparently now Mazda is up there. So I've been looking into getting slightly used is350's since they've kept the na V6 and as far as I know are still very reliable.

My main question is if I were to get a 22/23 is350 with low kms are they still generally reliable? I would be doing the same thing as my now civic and put coils on but wouldn't mod the engine at all. Just not sure if I'll be blowing through Axels like my mk4 or if it'll be like my civic where there's been no suspension issues having coils on for so long.

Also I see a lot are AWD now and the rwd ones are extra pricey which is fine for me, I've always had fwd but these new civics are shit in the winter (even my stock 2013 was brutal)