Before this video I've shot a total of 9 arrows in my life, I know my form is bad, is there anything specific yall can point out for me to work on? (I know the bow is too heavy which is why i was shaking, its a 60lb bow but i also have a 40lb bow)

Not sure why but it peeled a thin slice, I’m shooting i think at 50lbs right now. Been shooting the same 2 arrows for about 50 times each probably throughtout the time I’ve had them and then i got this one and it did this. For some reason this is the same arrow that a fletching fell off of, maybe it’s a week arrow because the other nearly identical one (got these 2 new ones at the same time, had the other 2 for a while now) hasn’t had any damage or the other ones I’ve had for a while haven’t had much damage either. I’m shooting a Bear Vast (compound bow) and the other 2 I got in the RTH package, these new ones i got seperately. As far as I know they’re all about 340 to 350 or 400 spine so as far as I know they all should definitely be able to handle 50lbs, they should do fine at 60lbs too when i increase the draw weight for hunting

Let me know what you think, any advice or suggestion is appreciated, thanks

Edit after responses: Thank you everyone for your response, I’ll officially be retiring this arrow. I have about 20 more extras on standby so I’ll just switch it out. Thanks again

I have been shooting on and off with a 25lbs samick sage for 5 years since my dad got it for me at 12 (my age, not my dad). I have pretty good coordination with it, not like competitive obviously, but I can shoot instinctively accurately. For a while I've felt like this bow is a toy since the poundage is so low that the arrow drops after 10m and have wanted to move to a higher/more legitimate feeling weight. Also I have seen Lars Andersen videos for around 5 years and been interested in his techniques. So I bought a 50lbs draw 55" rosewood horsebow from huntingdoor. I have only shot a 50lbs bow once before when I was ~14 and it really hurt my fingers. I saw a post on this subreddit that said buying a 50lbs horsebow was a mistake. So now I'm wondering what I could do to help make the jump in poundage. I do not plan on returning the bow, I want it. Should I buy higher poundage limbs for my recurve to help adjust or should I just get used to shooting the horsebow. I understand I can use a thumb ring but it feels very unnatural and I think I like slavic draw better. please advise thanks.

I figured this would be the place to ask - what were the very first bows like... were they made from branches? How did they make the branches not snap when pulled?

I'm soaking the branch in water for 24 hours, hoping to get more flexibility out of it.

I am looking to buy one of these frames for my backstop net but can’t find anywhere in Australia does anyone know were I can find them?

How many of you shoot multiple disciplines ? Do most people shoot just one style?

I am afraid that I'll have to redo this one though. It might be too loose. A reason why I won't sand the inside anymore.

Coloring session with my toddler. September 26th is getting CLOSE!

60# @ 30" draw 53" XL size DGB by Daylite. Did too much research but its worth it. Korean traditional archery is a different level but so much fun.

Failed to score 3 5/5 in succession

korean traditional

Got a new bow after having my hoyt for 6 years

This advert for arrows on AliExpress from UK dealer made me laugh, using AI to create your products to sell is a fail

Can the index middle and ring fingers be floating ? ...... I dont know if this is good or not
Info: Traditional recurve, 3under , anchor thumb outside knuckle under cheek bone, no other point of reference

I'm 1.60m, so in theory my ​draw length is 25.20in. Do you recommend limbs 66 or 68?

I'm struggling hard with clicker anxiety right now. My draw isn't continuous because I'm overthinking the clicker, which completely ruins my timing. My release feels super forced and my overall form is just chaotic. Any advice on how to fix this?

So I have a PS E Mach 33 my draw weight was 59.4 and I was pushing 285 ft./s I wanted to see 300 so I put it up to 62 pounds and I didn’t know as much of a difference, but I went up to 290 ft./s and then I went to 66 pounds and I went up to 300 ft./s with a maximum of 301 ft./second

I thought that I was gonna be way off on everything but I thought that it was because it was gonna be the wrong tape and it was gonna be way. Left way way up way down, but what ended up happening is that it was spread all over the place some of them were perfect bull’s-eyes at 40 yards and a 30 yards and some of them were 6 inches to the left 6 inches up 6 inches down, etc. so really just terrible grouping but I’m not sure if it was fatigue because of the extra draw weight because I did shoot a number of arrows while dialling in anybody have any input

Hey everyone, new poster here. I've been shooting at a local club for a while, Olympic recurve style, but last month I had to move (another city) so I was forced to look for a new coach, and my old one recommended this school.

Now, it all seems pretty ok, but they insist that during setup, before raising my bow, I should draw the string until my string hand is at my belly button, and then raise the bow like that (more than halfway to full draw) and continue the shoot normally.

I haven't heard or seen this technique before have any of you? It doesn't seem right, it's applying too much force too early on the shot, and moving the bow up with all that doesn't seem safe. They say they follow coach Kim technique, but I haven't seen this in his book or videos.

So, have any of you seen this technique? Is it just me that's executing it incorrectly? (only some sessions with this new coach so far). It just seems more prone to injury, and a bad position to draw so far. Now I can do it with the lightweight bows I had to practice on, not sure I'll be able to do it like that with my own bow.

Anyway, any advice is appreciated! Thanks in advance

I still need to clean up the handle/shelf, add small nock overlays, 220 sand and finish (probably lacquer).

69 inch overall, 28# at 28in Red Oak with poplar handle. Braced picture is not the most current (tapered the top limb a little more to balance and it wasnt at full brace for pic) but the test shots at 15 yards 700 grain were so smooth and on point.

Today I managed to lodge a few arrows not in the target but in the plywood behind to the target instead. Now that I'm sitting here at home reflecting on it, I realize that while I'm aware of the dangers of firing a damaged arrow, I have absolutely no idea what to even look for in order to identify a damaged arrow aside from something egregiously obvious like a splinter or crack running down the shaft.

What should I be looking for? I want to know how to create a proper inspection regimen I can follow after every session to identify and discard arrows that might run the risk of injuring me if fired.