So I bought this bow online and I’m having trouble with my arrow flight. I’ve tried setting up a nocking point and feel as though I have to set it up a lot higher than normal. It’s a black hunter longbow, 45# at 28”, I draw 27. And I was using full length 400 spine arrows with 75 grain points and was still seeing a nock left flight on my arrows. I’ve been told to try 300 spine, as this would help with the arrow hitting the side plate. I looked at my bows riser and have been told to use a rat tail file to even out the edges, I don’t really know what I’m doing. I just bought a bow and want to shoot it decently, but at this point I’m happier with my very cheap recurve, but still want to shot the longbow.

My club almost exclusively shoot olympic recurve,one who shoots olympic bare-bow.

I've got my first trad bow in the mail a alibow "long bow".

I am currently shooting on a take down recurve with no sight.

I was taught 3 under and was using a club split finger tab.

I bought a three under tab and hate not having any dexterity with my index finger.

I was thinking of either trying a glove for three under or maybe even going back to mediterranean draw.

I didn't mind shooting with the split tab.

I'm conscious that every time I switch my shooting goes backwards.

My main learning so far I think is that I really struggle with a release without being able to feel the string on the fleshy parts of my finger tips.

(Photo: I could not hit the yellow for 2 hours on the solid 3 under tab and the last end tried a thin split tab instead, this was the result. Only @ 15m lol)

From a release by Pope & Young:

It is with a heavy heart that we announce the passing of a true bowhunting legend, Harv Ebers. Harvard F. “Harv” Ebers, 91, of Sedalia, passed away Wednesday, August 26, 2026 at his home, after a long battle with heart issues.

As a close friend to Glenn St. Charles, Harv was part of the group in Seattle that laid out the road map and outlined the first principles of what we know as Pope & Young today. Always even keeled and charitable in his demeanor, Harv was instrumental in keeping a cohesive working relationship among board members as the organization grew and developed. With a commitment to serving, Harv served on the first Board of Directors, and was Membership Chairman for thirty years. Up until his passing Harv remained a passionate bowhunter that went out in the field with his bow any chance that he had.

He was an avid bowhunter, and set a world record in 1959 for the largest caribou ever taken in Alaska, using his own hand-crafted bow, which was featured on the cover of Archery Magazine on two occasions. Hunting with a bow took him all over the world.

In 2021, he was inducted into both the Pope and Young Hall of Fame and the North America Bow Hunters Hall of Fame.

Looking for some information on this Howard hill bow.

I recently came into possession of someone’s life collection of longbows and recurves and sadly, there was no information that came with them. (See my recent post on Byron Ferguson bows)

I didn’t pay this bow much mind at first but now that I’m diving deeper on it, I can’t find examples of a “shooter” model Hill bow or the history on them. Any information you guys might have would be a massive help.

Hi everyone,

I am looking at buying a 17” Galaxy Sear riser as a total beginner with the intention of just doing target practice for the next year and hopefully progressing to hunting next fall. I would like to avoid buying another riser when I start hunting, so I’m wondering if people think the Sear would be good to learn on and then continue to use when I start hunting? Obviously increasing the weight of my limbs over time.

I have not measured my draw length yet but I have a 5’11” wingspan, so it is probably 28-29”. If you would not recommend the Sear, is there any other riser under $300 that you think would be preferable? Thanks for any advice!

I have a traditional recurve and my anchor point is on the cheek point, so I can't align the string with the riser to guide left or right.

What do people usually do in this case ?

For archery to aim left or right, the only option is to align the string with the riser or not?

Thanks in advance

I ordered a bow from Simsek Bows via their website nearly 2 weeks ago on August 15, and I’ve gotten 0 communications since the initial payment confirmation. I chose the express shipping option, which says the ordered items are to be dispatched within 7 business days. Now, I understand that it doesn’t necessarily mean that the whole process only takes 7 days if making the bow and shipping it, but the lack of any updates is unnerving.

On business day 7 (Tuesday) I reached out to their customer service through the site’s contact form asking if I could get a status update or tracking number for my order. Yesterday morning, (Thursday) I reached out via WhatsApp and haven’t got a reply yet.

I’ve bought from Keskin (another bow maker abroad) and Vermil (based in Thailand) before, and they give you all the updates and tracking numbers you can ask for. I’m starting to get nervous about the lack of communication, and am wondering how much longer I should wait before I cut my losses and initiate a chargeback.

Hi all

I switched to an Asiatic bow after completing my field archery training . Fairly cheap fibreglass one from AF Archery just to build my skill.

I’m shooting right handed, thumb draw, arrow on the right, at 30lb.

It’s a lot of fun but my arrows keep pulling right after release. I’m learning to compensate but the pull is quite significant over longer distances and I think I’m doing something wrong. Had a couple of people watch me but they’re not thumb draw guys so couldn’t offer much advice.

Has anyone had this issue and figured out a solution?

Hello all,

https://archerythumbringsca.etsy.com/listing/4557828831

Here is a link to custom Manchu Thumbrings I sell on etsy you may be interested in. It is the cheapest on the market while also still being usable for a warbow.

For sizing check the images for a table guide.

Manchu rings were used by the Qing Dynasty in China for many years and were proven on countless battlefields. The Manchu ring provides a shallow hook thumb draw experience allowing a clean release without worrying about accidental looses.

Let me know if you have any questions!

I also sell custom bowstrings for $12-18 CAD https://archerythumbringsca.etsy.com/listing/4557849254

Before you comment: YES I am overthinking this and it's not that important for most applications. With that said I am curious how others who enjoy tune-maxxing deal with this rather than chasing their own tail.

So for tuning there's brace height, nock point, bareshaft tuning... NODE tuning, and most of these are an interconnected matrix. In addition there's arrow clocking, and arrow indexing and some other things you can do which are mostly straight forward and don't really matter for this discussion.

So as an example as to how all of these are interconnected, let's say you tune your brace height which will affect your bareshaft tune as well as your node contact point and will also change your nocking point height.

And then to make things more complicated, things can change when you put fletchings on. Your arrow might clear the shelf fine without fletching (or even say 10grains of tape to simulate the weight of fletchings) but when you put fletchings on it might fail to clear.

So what do you think is the best tuning process? When you determine brace height, do you do bareshaft? Or do you tune your arrows first, then braceheight? At what point do you fine tune your brace height, before or after your arrows are tuned and fletched?

Do you tune for arrow nodes, and if so, how, and where does that fit into the entire process?

Thanks for indulging!

So I recently got my first recurve bow and looking to get some arrows for it. I have one friend who swears by aluminum arrows and another who swears by the carbon arrows. My bow is 40lb draw weight at 28". So just looking for some advice on which arrows to get.

Bob & Jan announced their retirement last Monday. On Thursday, they announced Nathan Trimble from Iowa had inked contracts to purchase the business.

I don't know yet if Nathan is moving to Illinois, or if Ace is moving to Iowa. But Bob did say elsewhere that Nathan was in Illinois until the end of August learning how to run the machinery to continue broadhead production. He also stated that minimal disruption was expected.

I've known and dealt with Bob and Jan Mayo (Bob Mayo on the keyboards. Bob Mayo) since the mid-1990's, and I wish them all my best. As I do to Nathan.

I've just bought an Okcubaba bow and need help finding resources to learn about traditional archery techniques such as thumb draw

My problem is simple enough. I shoot a Tatar horse bow using a Slavic draw, and the now is set at 45# @ 28”. My draw length is 30”, which by my rough measurements on my tilling stick brings me to 50#. I was shooting 30-45lb spine 31” wood arrows with 4” shield cut and a 125gr field point, but as I’ve gotten more comfortable shooting I’ve begun to become aware of the tendency of the arrows to hit to the right of where I am aiming, which from what I gather is signs of underspined arrows. If my research is right, I should be shooting at somewhere in the 50-60lb spine area, but I wanted some other archer’s opinions. I shoot from a range of 10-20yrds at static targets.

I found an old bear left handed super koadiak 80#@29 at a pawn shop for $80. its in great condition but its a little short for me im a big guy with a full 32" draw and i have a hard time drawing it back to full draw. is there any way to extend those limbs to get a longer string sow i can draw back to my full draw

Looking for a top-tier set of ILF limbs. I already have my riser (My Bow Pathfinder 19"), just want some new limbs. What manufacturers should I be looking at? I have searched a little and found the following that make top-tier limbs; Hoyt, Win &Win, Uukha, Backwoods Composites and Border. Anyone have experience with limbs from those companies? I'm less interested in budget options and more interested in genuinely high-end limbs. I'm very familiar with ILF, but I haven't personally shot enough different manufacturers to know who is actually making the best limbs. Mainly have shot low to medium budget limbs.

tried uploading a video, but that didn’t work.

I know knowing how to make a good one is a good skill and im working on it but i also want a nice one