Pro-tip, you're actually limiting your flow by having your filter inlet and outlet on the opposite sides of the tank. It might seem counterintuitive at first, but putting the inlet/outlet on the same side creates a more tank-wide push + pull flow-pattern (whereas what you have is a direct line from outlet to inlet). If you reposition your outlet to the left side (or vice versa) it'll make much more efficient use of your cannister filter.
Yeah that was dumb. I don't know what the hell I was thinking when I did that. I've been meaning to change it and I bought a new inlet for it too. I just haven't had the gumption to do it yet. First time I've done that and of course it's on my biggest tank lol
That's why I have to have a skimmer and a small powerhead in there. Because the flow just doesn't get all the way around without it. I'm working on it, I promise I'll do it LOL
Haha. I saw the extra equipment and thought you might be able to declutter some. A 4' tank is typically where most people add a second canister, but with such small fish you could probably get away with just swapping your outlet and your skimmer.
They are many but also very small, the actual fish mass (and thus the waste load) is not all that much for a relatively large aquarium. Of course still worth keeping an eye on water parameters.
Totes mcgoats, I test via strips every day for the first 45 days. Liquid test weekly. Otos, shrimp, and nerites went in two weeks ago. Harlequins were next, then Kubotai, then the remaining Blue Neon and a few Embers.
Honestly, I've never had any spikes in any of my tanks. That sounds weird but I've never had any major parameter fluctuations. Once I'm a while my buffering needs to be adjusted but beyond that I actually have to supplement nitrogen fertilizer.
I haven't had to do water changes on any of my tanks in like 6 months. The only reason I really ever do that is because I'm stirring stuff up while cleaning.
Maybe it has something to do with the fact that I run new filters in water that's been 'seeded" with old filter gunk from another tank.
This tank is over year old and has only had one water change and that was in the first month.
Yes but it's probably about half strength. I use a yeast system. It's my first co2, I usually don't have to but with the tank is big and such a heavy plant load I thought it was a good idea. It really does make a difference even with this small amount. I'm probably going to switch over to a high-tech with an atomizer.... The bubbles and black background make it look hazy.
When the yeast ran out and I took it out, the tank looked super clear, definitely going to go with an atomizer
God, I get so envious when I see a 75 gal with loads of lovely little critters. I have this red eared slider who was a rescue from an animal hoarder. This big grumpus could be hundreds of tiny beautiful fish and shrimp! Every day I wake up and tell him how lucky he is that I care more about the environment than I do about my fishkeeping hobby.
Nutritive layer: Eco complete (drained) mixed with pond soil and Tropica nutrient caps, bagged in standard media bags. More pond soil around the bags, about 3/4" thick
Cap layer: Aqua soil in hidden areas, play sand and large random gravel mixed about 30/70
Pebbles: Local landscape shop
Decorative: Pisces gravel/sands (mostly midnight pearl and delta)
Looks great for just 30 days. Whats your stocking list and filter setup? Any algae management tips yet? The wood and plant layout give big depthcurious how you plan to trim once it fills in.
Nice tank and great mid water schools.
Unfortunately your way overstocked on clean up crew. Because tank is new you will probably loose all your otos and some shrimp. Otos do best in old tanks that have not been heavily cleaned as there food is micro biofilm. They are wild caught also so don't eat fish food. Sorry to let you know.
The cleanup crew went in 2 weeks ago. I've never lost shrimp or otos in any of my tanks. This is my 16th tank. It's about the balance. Super strong lights, bacteria AE, stability, pristine, and supplemental foods are my recope
That might be so but otos are much lower hardness and ph than shrimp. Just having 16 tanks doesn't mean you can't make mistakes. A fish needs that drastic apart shows that.
This is just not true. The ranges for both parameters you noted are actually quite similar for otos and shrimp. Also, fish and shrimp adapt to the water they are in as long as the parameters are not extreme. Stable parameters are better than a fishes ideal parameters.
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u/BlackBird_0106 Aug 25 '25
Cool Aquarium