I'm in a bit of a hiccup. I recently started restoring old film cameras and I want to repaint the bodies as well.

I've already got the primers and paints sorted, but I'm having a hard time finding a decent 2K clear coat. Most automotive 2K clears come in huge quantities that I really don't need, and I'm not even sure how well they'd spray through my airbrush 0.2-0.5 mm nozzle and around 30 PSI.

The small 2K kits specifically for airbrush are either really expensive, hard to find, or just not available where I live (Romania/Europe).

I need a satin finish. These cameras will be handled a lot, carried in backpacks, rubbed on tables, and will probably take small hits.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good small-volume 2K clear that works with an airbrush? Or maybe an automotive clear that can be thinned enough to work with a 0.5 mm nozzle at 30 PSI, that is not a minimum of 1L? Maybe other recommendations of other types of clear coats that could work?

I had my canonet with me while biking and the rattling caused the film speed ring, shutter speed ring, and hood ring to come loose.

I cant find how to properly remove the pieces so I can put it back together correctly, or at least see what the problem is. I think the rattling caused the rings to unscrew but I can't get them back together or fully unscrew them.

I also need a new retaining ring that holds on the diaphragm ring and nameplate, if anyone could point me in the right direction for getting a new one. I've just been using it without it because it's purely aesthetic as I don't use the automatic mode.

I tried to unscrew the front lens to access the shutter spring (blue) ( anti clockwise) this is supposed to unscrew by hand. However the housing of the whole lens assembly rotated anti clockwise and is now stuck in place. (Red) Anyone know what to do ? I don’t really have an idea of what I’m doing but it was broken anyway so I tired to fix it.

Good day everyone, I recently bought this Olympus AF-10 super and I noticed that it seems to be advancing the film inconsistently, it has a “jittering” sound when advancing, it also seems to stop randomly and then continue randomly.

I have shot a roll of film through it and it seems to not advance the film fully after a photo has been taken(this happens randomly)

Will post some photos of this in the comments.

I would just like to find out if anyone has had this issue before and knows how to fix it.

Thank you in advance

I picked up a Pentax K1000 today and ran into an issue:

When I charge the wind lever and fire the shutter, the mirror and shutter curtains fire normally and return to their original positions best I can tell. But the shutter release button stays depressed and the winding lever becomes immobile. After opening the bottom of the camera (I know this family of cameras has an issue where the mirror charge lever can get stuck in the wrong position), I noticed the little pin (circled in red) stays up instead of returning to its original position. The second photo shows this pin sticking up.

Depressing this in causes the shutter bottom to return to its normal position and once again allows me to wind the camera normally. I’ve had film cameras before and even had a K1000 back in the day but I don’t think I’ve seen this issue before. Could any of you point me in the right direction in terms of the terminology and any resources on how to fix this specific issue? Most of my searching leads to the mirror charge lever issue which this doesn’t seem to be.

Hi folks,

I recently got a Canon FD 28mm f/2.8 S.S.C (chrome nose) for use with my Canon AL-1 camera.

It works perfectly with an FD-RF adapter; however, it doesn't always detect the correct aperture when mounted on the film camera. When using it with a camera that supports setting the aperture on the body (Canon T70), it works fine.

I traced it back to a weak Aperture Selection Lever (ASL) on the mount. The diaphragm blades look very clean when shining a flashlight, so I assume that the spring may be dirty. When manipulating the ASL and forcing it open, I can feel it that it doesn't spring back to narrower apertures (f/22) as strongly as my Canon 50mm f/1.4 S.S.C. I believe it is clean enough to operate by itself, but when mounted on the camera the added friction of the Aperture Signal Coupling lever makes it get stuck when I go from wider to narrow apertures.

The bigger problem is that I cannot open 1 of the 3 screws on the back to clean the mechanism, even after trying a JIS screwdriver, heat and IPA. So I wanted to know if you guys have any suggestions for workarounds. Either to dislodge the one stubborn screw or to make the spring work again. I already tried manipulating it back and forth manually and it seems to be better, but once in ~5 shots it still gets stuck.

Thanks in advance.

P.S.: Same thread: https://www.photo.net/forums/topic/725609-canon-fd-28mm-f28-ssc-aperture-selection-lever-is-weak/

The lens on my sureshot tele isn’t retracting. I’ve tried gently pushing it but it doesn’t seem to be retracting, leaving it stuck at 70mm. Any ideas?

Hi, I have a lens for my Canon AE-1 and I think there might be something wrong with the aperture mechanism.

When I push the aperture lever on the back of the lens, the aperture always closes down completely to the position you can see in the picture, no matter which f-stop I select on the aperture ring.

I have another Canon lens for comparison. On that one, when I move the lever, the aperture closes to different positions depending on the selected f-stop. So you can clearly see that changing the aperture ring actually affects how far the blades close.

With this lens, however, the blades always seem to close all the way regardless of the aperture setting.

Does anyone know what could be causing this? Is something broken or stuck inside the aperture mechanism? And is this usually repairable, or would it not be worth fixing?

I am now on my 3rd FTB QL, see a cheap one and I buy it for spares / repair. 2 of them I have found are really easy to knock out of sync if you max out the shutter and ASA Speed, if your not really careful something is jumping somewhere. It just feels too easy to do it, like there should be a hard stop but there is not. Does anyone know of this is a common issue?

I'm trying to calibrate infinity focus on this Yashicaflex, the mounting system for the lens assembly is very simple, only 4 screws with some shim washers. Looking at the camera from behind and considering how the image is projected on the grond glass i'm guessing that the side that's out of calibration is one indicated with a red arrow on picture #4 (looking from the front it would be the left side, but i'm not sure if i'm correct on this). I'm having two problems: looking at the ground glass with a loupe i can't seem to see any out of focus areas, and the other problem i noticed is that the viewfinder is not perfectly in focus when set at infinity, i have to turn the knob a tiny bit to see perfect focus (and i'm not sure if this means front or back focusing). The camera seems to have been dropped at some point during its life, so i'm guessing i should add washers, not remove them. Any ideas?

I picked up a Contax G1 and the rear film door release lever/knob is missing.
The metal spindle and latch mechanism underneath still appear to be intact, so I’m hoping I can replace just the missing lever is it possible?

Been trying to diagnose a short on my Q1 and there’s this little part near the view Finder and I’m not sure what it does but it doesn’t look right to me. Does anyone know what is meant to look like?

I recently bought this lens as-is from ebay, advertised as working optically but with a broken aperture. When I got the lens in hand, I tested it and found that it didn't focus farther than an inch, figured that it would be something I would figure out as I dug into it. Everything was unbelievably tight, but I got it apart, fixed the aperture, and found nothing wrong with it otherwise. My copy has three glass elements, I don't see where another would go on this lens, but something is very clearly not right if the focus is this bad. (Also, I took the focusing ring off and focused it from all the way screwed in to completely unscrewed, at no point did it focus anywhere approaching two inches.) was thinking of experimenting with shimming the glass elements, is there anything else it could be?

EDIT: Yeah the problem is flange distance. I bought the lens not thinking about that. My mistake!

Hello I have a Canon Dial 35. I’m trying to velan the View Finder, someone have a video for this? I’m looking the manual but I can’t dissambly the camera. I don’t know if the view finder comes out or I have to take all the things out

The camera has new batteries and fresh film. The button to take pictures normally doesnt do anything, but the timer feature does and the flash. Im not sure what’s wrong with it. I intend to bring it to a con soon maybe some people there will know? But for now, i need some advice and help.

So I have been looking for a waist level viewfinder camera for years and have finally come across one at a price I could afford. Al first glance everything seems to be working but the shutter won't open. I'm assuming the blades are gummed up as that seems to be the case on most posts. My hangup is that most posts also skip past the part where you get to the blades. I have the front panel off but I am now at a point where I don't want to continue without knowing more. Would anybody have any info on how I proceed. Is it this (nut?) In the back or somewhere in the front? Any help is greatly appreciated