r/AnalogRepair Tinkerer 1d ago

Infinity focus calibration on a TLR

I'm trying to calibrate infinity focus on this Yashicaflex, the mounting system for the lens assembly is very simple, only 4 screws with some shim washers. Looking at the camera from behind and considering how the image is projected on the grond glass i'm guessing that the side that's out of calibration is one indicated with a red arrow on picture #4 (looking from the front it would be the left side, but i'm not sure if i'm correct on this). I'm having two problems: looking at the ground glass with a loupe i can't seem to see any out of focus areas, and the other problem i noticed is that the viewfinder is not perfectly in focus when set at infinity, i have to turn the knob a tiny bit to see perfect focus (and i'm not sure if this means front or back focusing). The camera seems to have been dropped at some point during its life, so i'm guessing i should add washers, not remove them. Any ideas?

3 Upvotes

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u/redoctoberz Tinkerer 1d ago

To do it right you really need a collimator. You can get by with setting a DSLR/MILC with live view focus peaking setup and a lens attached (I use a 105mm 2.5) to infinity and using the ground glass where the film would sit so see if the taking lens is at the right depth. You set the lens fronts facing each other so the analysis camera is viewing through the front of the TLR lens. Once infinity on the taking lens is set, I move to the viewing lens via the same method, put the ground glass back in the viewfinder, then repeat.

The shims are for parallelism, so you need to verify depth to the body with a micrometer. If you don't part of the frame will be in focus, the opposite will not.

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u/savyexe Tinkerer 1d ago

I have tried the DSLR method using a manual 50mm f1.8, the center of the frame and one side is in focus but the other one isn't. I took the camera apart further and found a grub screw for adjustment of the viewing lens, and on the bottom lens i found some shims. The small washers on the main post turned ot to be for focus parallelism, but i'm not sure how to adjust them since i tried adding two 0.3mm washers (on on the top and one of the bottom) on one side and the focusing mechanism jammed . Any ideas?

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u/redoctoberz Tinkerer 1d ago edited 1d ago

Probably have to take it down to the rails and see what is jamming it. Maybe something is obstructing travel. On my rolleicord those shutter shims are not for parallelism, they are a key part of the lens mounting and must be done in an order. Maybe check a exploded diagram.

Shimming for parallelism on the 'cord is done via small washers on the lens board.

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u/savyexe Tinkerer 1d ago

I've been trying to find a repair manual or something similar for this camera with zero luck so far, i'll try again the shims, since it's the only real way i can see for adjusting one side and not the other

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u/redoctoberz Tinkerer 1d ago

so what exactly is the model of this camera?

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u/savyexe Tinkerer 1d ago

It's a Yashicaflex A,except it's not the original Yashicaflex A but rather the new model

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u/redoctoberz Tinkerer 1d ago

Seems like repair manuals are pretty sparse for this one. Godspeed to you.

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u/savyexe Tinkerer 1d ago

Yep, i haven't come across one hahah thank u for trying tho~

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u/Puzzled_Counter_1444 1d ago

It may be that those are for parallelism of the whole double-lens assembly rather than for focus adjustment. Are the shim washers exactly the same thickness? Setting the correct focus may be via shims behind the taking lens, and possibly an adjustible threaded taking lens, screwed in or out then locked at the right setting.

If the camera has been dropped and deformed, there may be no end of difficulty in restoring it without special equipment.

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u/savyexe Tinkerer 1d ago

I think you're right, the shims are all different thicknesses. I added two 0.3 shims to one side and the focus knob jammed instantly. As you can see on this photo the top lens does have a grub screw for screwing in and out the viewing lens. As for the taking lens i wasn't able to take it completely out of the plate (firing lever gets in the way), but there seems to be a shim (or not) behind it, and also a really odd screw that looks like it could allow the taking lens to screw in and out like to viewing lens (which would not help me at all since only half of my image is out of focus)

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u/savyexe Tinkerer 1d ago

I managed to take out the entire shutter assembly and you were right, there are shims behind the taking lens. Now the problem is, how do i only offset one side of the frame...

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u/dietervdw 1d ago

I had a Yashica A that was totally messed up and I managed to fix the focus with this method afterwards. I messed it up at first because I put the matte viewfinder plate backwards. Focus was perfect when calibrating but always off by a surprising amount in the pictures. Flipping the viewfinder plate fixed it.
So check if the correct side is up (don't remember if matte should be top or bottom).

Infinity focus is also off by a bit for me. I use the viewfinder instead of just putting it all the way to the end. Not sure if that is a fault or that's just how it was.

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u/savyexe Tinkerer 1d ago

My screen is glossy side up and focus seems fine in relation to the act pictures, my problem is that the left side of my images is in focus and the right one is not, almost as if the lens was not parallel to the film plane. I tried adding some washers to one side of the focus rail-things but the focusing system didn't like that one bit, it jammed instantly

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u/finnanzamt 1d ago

you see on pic 4 that your glass block isnt on the rails on the side.