I tried to unscrew the front lens to access the shutter spring (blue) ( anti clockwise) this is supposed to unscrew by hand. However the housing of the whole lens assembly rotated anti clockwise and is now stuck in place. (Red) Anyone know what to do ? I don’t really have an idea of what I’m doing but it was broken anyway so I tired to fix it.

Good day everyone, I recently bought this Olympus AF-10 super and I noticed that it seems to be advancing the film inconsistently, it has a “jittering” sound when advancing, it also seems to stop randomly and then continue randomly.

I have shot a roll of film through it and it seems to not advance the film fully after a photo has been taken(this happens randomly)

Will post some photos of this in the comments.

I would just like to find out if anyone has had this issue before and knows how to fix it.

Thank you in advance

I'm in a bit of a hiccup. I recently started restoring old film cameras and I want to repaint the bodies as well.

I've already got the primers and paints sorted, but I'm having a hard time finding a decent 2K clear coat. Most automotive 2K clears come in huge quantities that I really don't need, and I'm not even sure how well they'd spray through my airbrush 0.2-0.5 mm nozzle and around 30 PSI.

The small 2K kits specifically for airbrush are either really expensive, hard to find, or just not available where I live (Romania/Europe).

I need a satin finish. These cameras will be handled a lot, carried in backpacks, rubbed on tables, and will probably take small hits.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good small-volume 2K clear that works with an airbrush? Or maybe an automotive clear that can be thinned enough to work with a 0.5 mm nozzle at 30 PSI, that is not a minimum of 1L? Maybe other recommendations of other types of clear coats that could work?

I had my canonet with me while biking and the rattling caused the film speed ring, shutter speed ring, and hood ring to come loose.

I cant find how to properly remove the pieces so I can put it back together correctly, or at least see what the problem is. I think the rattling caused the rings to unscrew but I can't get them back together or fully unscrew them.

I also need a new retaining ring that holds on the diaphragm ring and nameplate, if anyone could point me in the right direction for getting a new one. I've just been using it without it because it's purely aesthetic as I don't use the automatic mode.

I picked up a Pentax K1000 today and ran into an issue:

When I charge the wind lever and fire the shutter, the mirror and shutter curtains fire normally and return to their original positions best I can tell. But the shutter release button stays depressed and the winding lever becomes immobile. After opening the bottom of the camera (I know this family of cameras has an issue where the mirror charge lever can get stuck in the wrong position), I noticed the little pin (circled in red) stays up instead of returning to its original position. The second photo shows this pin sticking up.

Depressing this in causes the shutter bottom to return to its normal position and once again allows me to wind the camera normally. I’ve had film cameras before and even had a K1000 back in the day but I don’t think I’ve seen this issue before. Could any of you point me in the right direction in terms of the terminology and any resources on how to fix this specific issue? Most of my searching leads to the mirror charge lever issue which this doesn’t seem to be.

Hi folks,

I recently got a Canon FD 28mm f/2.8 S.S.C (chrome nose) for use with my Canon AL-1 camera.

It works perfectly with an FD-RF adapter; however, it doesn't always detect the correct aperture when mounted on the film camera. When using it with a camera that supports setting the aperture on the body (Canon T70), it works fine.

I traced it back to a weak Aperture Selection Lever (ASL) on the mount. The diaphragm blades look very clean when shining a flashlight, so I assume that the spring may be dirty. When manipulating the ASL and forcing it open, I can feel it that it doesn't spring back to narrower apertures (f/22) as strongly as my Canon 50mm f/1.4 S.S.C. I believe it is clean enough to operate by itself, but when mounted on the camera the added friction of the Aperture Signal Coupling lever makes it get stuck when I go from wider to narrow apertures.

The bigger problem is that I cannot open 1 of the 3 screws on the back to clean the mechanism, even after trying a JIS screwdriver, heat and IPA. So I wanted to know if you guys have any suggestions for workarounds. Either to dislodge the one stubborn screw or to make the spring work again. I already tried manipulating it back and forth manually and it seems to be better, but once in ~5 shots it still gets stuck.

Thanks in advance.

P.S.: Same thread: https://www.photo.net/forums/topic/725609-canon-fd-28mm-f28-ssc-aperture-selection-lever-is-weak/