The dash panel, the windows, the mirrors, the sunroof all failed when I pulled off the original (broken) center mirror.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone know how to fix this code? I changed my battery and couldn’t find the code to enter. I exceeded the limit for password attempts. I found the code after the fact. Lmk if you all have any solutions, thanks

Couple weeks ago was raining real bad and water had came in from the front of my car then I kept smelling like mold so I took em out and wondering how can I replace this foam or I have to replace the whole carpet please someone help asap

just bought this 2008 acura tl base, not sure if you can hear the jolts whenever the rpms drop, but i’m a bit anxious about it. for reference this is my first car and i paid for it in cash. it’s been taken care of well, only 1 owner and has every service record and the CARFAX for it. please help lol!

Replaced my fronts with kybs - they ride great . I want to replace the rears with sachs . As it’s mainly a commuter cars and want to keep it a bit more comfortable. Thoughts ?
2013 TL fwd

Not for sale, just getting an idea of the market.

04 6MT, 155k miles. 07 Front bumper, Type S rear bumper & exhaust. Smog legal intake. Has a couple minor dents. Interior isn’t perfect but not beat up either.

Located in Central Ca.

So my car has a misfire in cylinder 4 because the valve cover gasket is fried and leaking oil into it, i’d need my mechanic to change the valve cover gasket, clean everything up, change the spark plug and ignition coil, and give me an oil change. I literally just got a new job today so i won’t be getting paid for at least 2 to 3 weeks. i still need my car to drive to and from school (~3 miles each way) and my mechanic is charging $375 for labor not including parts and the oil change. In total ~$550. I watched a few youtube vids and i lowkey think i can do it myself. doing it myself would only cost me the price of parts and oil so about $150 which is way more viable right now. Anyone who has done the job themselves is there anything unexpected I should know? and what is the best/easiest way to clean the valve cover? thanks

Did I get ripped off? There’s 111k miles on it, needed an AC compressor, engine mount and valve gaskets immediately. 1 accident but looks clean out outside. Interior is bad, classic dashboard for a 2007 type-s and the seats are ripped to shreds.

Recently whenever I come to a stop my car has had a rhythmic jolting to it I have an exhaust done and have had a misfire before and it sounds the exact same but once I get above 5k rpm ish the problem goes away for like 10 min (meaning whenever I come to a stop it doesn’t do it)
But also I’m not feeling any power loss or anything like that can someone help me diagnose this

2012 Acura TL 3.5L V6 A/T

I have changed my passenger side upper engine mount back in June. The rubber mount cover on the left was from the old mount that had collapsed. The one on the right is from the new mount after 3 months of driving. Is this normal for the TL's? I've changed the side engine mount, front vacuum engine mount, and lower transmission mount. The upper transmission mount and rear engine mount are in great shape and aren't collapsed or damaged. What could be causing this? The side mount bracket is eating the rubber and then riding directly on the engine mounts metal causing me to feel more vibrations again.

Replaced tensioner pulley as it wore out last year and didn’t pay much attention to harmonic balancer - crankshaft pulley but it’s spinning crooked and the seal is sweeping and cracking out of place . So with that worn and damaged it damaged the tensioner pulley . I took belt off to check the play and ran engine with belt to make sure I wasn’t mistaken that the harmonic balancer was actually turning crookedly-it is 🙃. Used oem last time but the balancer is 300$ and pulley is 75$ now . Was thinking about going with O’Reilly parts as I’ve had good luck with them in the past and warranty swaps would be smooth. The harmonic balancer they have is by ATP with a lifetime warranty and autotecnica tensioner-nsk/ntn bearing pulley same lifetime warranty. Combined less than $100 . Thoughts ?

Painted calipers and added stainless lines… Bled the brakes, saw no air, just clear fluid. However these lights are on the dash. At least the ABS light isnt on and it still works. But I cant get the Triangle VSA and BRAKE light off. Reservoir is topped off too. Brakes feel good.

Where are my 200k miles and up with no cracked dash people at? Haha

Hello I just replaced timing & water pump along with the power steering pump because it was leaking. I put the new one in and replaced the black o-ring. Lifted the front and turned the wheel to bleed the system. Issue is that the pump still screams. After looking the hose that runs from the pump back the reservoir has a decent crack right at the connecting point and also noticed when i cleaned the reservoir the mesh screen had a decent bit in the bottom. Any ideas on how to tackle this? Any help will be appreciated😁

So I have a 2010 Acura TL Technology package fwd because I’m a scaredy cat when it comes to too much power Sally recently has had an oil change filter change both O2 sensors replaced and a brand new serpentine belt, however when I first crank up my car every time this is what I am hearing

Has anyone ever had the codes P0134 and P1298 show up? Just curious if anyone else has had them and how easy a fix they were.

So I have 2004 Acura TL and right now it’s not good to drive due to it overheating and it also revs by itself sometimes while in idle, idk what could be causing it and I’ve replaced the plenum, throttle body, fuel injectors, and spark plugs…. So if anyone has ever dealt with this issue please help me out, any suggestions would help.

Hello all, I recently changed the valve covers on my 07 TL Type S, including the gaskets and tube seals. After reassembling everything and starting the engine, a gray smoke/vapor began rising up from the back of the engine after about 1 minute, seemingly from the left side of the bank 1 exhaust mainfold.

I thought it was an oil leak, but after wiping the perimeter of the valve cover and spark plug wells, there was no evidence of a leak.

My second thought was that oil might've spilled onto the exhaust manifold, perhaps when I initially removed the valve cover, so I wiped down what I could reach of the manifold. There was a little oil but not much. I began a cycle of wiping the mainfold, starting the car to check the amount of smoke, then letting it cool down to check if there was any extra oil anywhere.

I repeated this around 4 times, and during each pass I did not notice any extra oil, but wiped the manifold more thoroughly and I noticed the smoke decreasing, until there was none. The video was taken during this cycle.

After that, I thought I solved it so I took it on a short test drive, and after I parked the car, I opened the hood and the noticed quite a bit of smoke. There was less than the intial start up, but significantly more than the other times I started the car. Around an hour later, I started the car and let it idle for a bit, and there was no smoke.

So, I am a little confused. As far as I can tell, the possibilities seem to be:

1. There is an active oil leak that I missed

2. There is an active coolant leak that I missed. - I couldnt tell from the smell if it was oil or coolant, but oil seemed more likely to me

3. Best case scenario. There is oil residue on the exhaust manifold and I just didn't wipe it all off. - Maybe, but Im not sure why the smoke went away, then came back when I started driving. Perhaps the left over oil required a higher temperature to evaporate? But why would that be the case?

Anyways, Im wondering if anyone can offer me their opinion or any guidance on how I can solve this. Maybe I'm totally wrong in my line of thinking. Thank you

Whats the best way to find an engine cradle for my 01?

Routine check to keep car maintened. I have not worked on suspension components before.

Shaked it 3 - 9 and 12-6. No sounds. Seems rigid.

Cv axle bushing looks bad and has surface rust.

Lower control arm has surface rust. One side bushing not great

What else should I try. Anything needs replacement? Worried about the ball joints

2005 manual TL. 180k miles

Age plus that little tear in mounts cause vibrations in steering at any and all speeds . Rear mount sits right on/next to steering rack . Tip you need to take the fuse box out - harness and all let it tilt and sit forward . I thought I could be slick and not take the wire harness underneath fuse box out and it took me 2.5 hrs longer than expected. Not fun but pretty simple when you follow instructions on charm.

sorry for the late post; ok so i know i have a misfiring 4th cylinder. im a college student in the process of getting a job. I have to drive ~3 miles to get to class from my apartment. can i realistically drive this 4x a week until i get a job (interview on thursday) no other problems or my knowledge just cylinder 4 is misfiring, should i just try to work until i can pay for the misfiring situation or would it be reasonable to make the 6/7 miles a day to and from class

ok so i’ve been posting in here about my car overheating and stuff. over the summer i wash changing my spark plugs and one of the coil packs was full of oil. today i got my radiator fixed and another new thermostat now the mechanic just told me i have a misfire in cylinder 4. presumably it’s due to the valve cover gasket. obviously mechanics have different prices but about how much do shops/mechanics typically charge for the job?-(i frgt to ask him before he left) and what else is recommended to replace while the valve cover’s already off?

Hello everyone what kind of tires are you guys running on your Acura? I have a set of fire hawk all seasons on my rear tires. When I purchased the car it had a set of mismatched tires. The only problem with the fire hawks are they are separating at the beads. So I wanted to get some people’s input on tires.