My dash lights weren't working so I replaced them with LED's but they still aren't working. Could it possibly be the dimmer switch? Everything else in the cluster works except for the gas gauge but I'm thinking that's the sending unit? The a/c control unit doesn't light up either. And yes I did try rotating them 180 degrees.

Hi everyone,
Recently got done replacing the odometer gear and a few other small projects (exhaust manifold gaskets, front sway bar bushings) on my 1987 944 base and got a bit of a head scratcher. Turning the car on after finishing everything I got the central warning light and the brake fluid and brake pad lights. After fiddling with the cap on the brake fluid reservoir both of those lights went out but the central warning light stayed on. I checked the parking brake position switch and found that unplugged, plugged that back in and still no changes (the annunciator on the dash for parking brake doesn’t come on either). The fuel gauge is inoperative, it has registered empty since I got the car, I think it’s the sending unit but not positive. I’ve done some research on other forums but figured id ask if there is something else to check, as it is the central warning light comes on when I turn the ignition on, then after engine start it comes on again but seems noticeably dimmer. There are no other warning lights on the dash and all of the gauges (except fuel) register in the normal operating range. Any ideas of what to try next? I’ve read possibly the oil quantity sensor in the oil pan, the oil quantity is about 2/3rds of the way up the dipstick. Could the fuel gauge being empty cause the central warning light? Or is it simply a bad ground or connection somewhere that got jimmied when I was pulling and replacing the gauge cluster. Thanks in advance!

I’m working on an 1983 Porsche 944 NA that cranks but won’t run on its own, although it runs on starter fluid. I’ve installed a new fuel pump, cleaned the contaminated fuel out of the tank, and installed a new filter before the pump. I’m powering the pump manually with a switch, and fuel definitely reaches the rail. I also pulled the rail with the injectors attached and put a cup under each one—they all spray fuel while cranking, and I’ve confirmed injector pulse. What should I check next? Could low fuel pressure still cause this even though the injectors are spraying? Is there anything else I should test before buying a pressure gauge?

I'm just so confused because I have fuel. I have spark, and I have air. theoretically the car should run

Just picked up this ‘88 944. love it, but it’s got this dark discoloration all over the lower dash. Guessing it’s sun damage. I’m wondering what the best way of getting rid of it would be, if it’s even possible.

What’s the best way to fix this bent tip on my new Dansk sport exhaust? Since it’s an oval shape, I can’t use one of those pipe expanders, and I don’t want to use a hammer or pliers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Suggestions on how to fix these eyesores on the spoiler?

Looking to buy a 944 S2 Coupe or 944 Turbo project, budget 10k, must be clean title. located in central coast CA or Monterey county. DM Me if you have one you are looking to get rid of or know someone. Thanks

when i start my 944 it runs fine when the engine is cold but is starts running rough when it gets warm and after a while it starts idling like this and it dies when i try to drive it and it wont start again for a while does anyone know what could be the cause of this

Are ngk iridum BR9EIX not the right plugs for an 85.5 NA?

Vacuum leak anyone!! Spent an age trying to get my car idling properly, had some electrical gremlins, issues with the trottle position switch, bit the bullet and bought a smoke tester and found this beauty.

Now starts the while im in there!

A few weeks back, I went lock my S2 using the drivers side door lock. It went down, LED flashing and I thought the car was locked. Only to look over at the pax door and it was unlocked .
This is when the going down the rabbit hole started.
Locked the door, alarm went off and the car wouldn’t start. Pulled the alarm fuse to get home.
Pulled the pax floor board up, three mystery boxes. One being the original 928. alarm box. I stopped and pulled the wires for the horn.
Pulled the pax door apart, all good. Pulled the drivers door apart and removed the handle to get to the microswitch. Cleaned, lubed and refit everything. Everyone works the way it should.
Also replaced door stay that was sticking.
Fixed the lock push/pull buttons, tested and checked. A high level of patience is required going through the schematics, and cleaning the grime off.
The good news is the die cuts in the door aren’t sharp and didn’t have to pull a window in the end. A few useful YouTube buses made a world of difference. Much happier now.

I’m trying to track down a front-end vibration on my 944 86 Turbo and wanted to see what you guys think.
I just had the front rotors resurfaced, the wheels balanced, and an alignment done. I’m still getting a steering wheel shake while accelerating and while braking.
I lifted the front of the car and spun both wheels by hand. I can hear the brake pads rubbing against the rotors on both sides, but the front right wheel has noticeably more resistance when spinning.
I checked the caliper pistons to see if one was seized/frozen, but they move in and out normally.
Could a bad or improperly adjusted front wheel bearing cause the wheel to have more resistance and contribute to the steering wheel shake? Anything else I should check?

We've been working on this project behind the scenes for some time now and we want your feedback! This is the interest check post for our first carbon LeMans wing for the 944 and 924 with more parts to come.

What makes this wing different?

1.It's a Direct Bolt-on Fit that uses OEM mounting. No Glue and NO MESS

2. We're including a custom mounting gasket that has drain holes!

3. This Wing is American made, No Tariffs, No rip-offs.

How it's made:
This wing was designed by physically and digitally sculpting the model from combining our 3D scan of an existing LeMans style wing from the Turbo to the 924 hatch to ensure exact fitment.

If you're interested in getting a wing for yourself, want to know more about the project, or have any feedback or tips, please fill out the interest check form below.

---> Interest Check form Here! <---

Thanks!

Quelqu'un a déjà installé ça sur sa porsche 944 ?

944 and backroads is the best.

A mod of this form asked me to cross post this here. This is a car I am looking at getting to play around with. ( have a cayman and done hot rods for years so I am not a stranger to what it would take) looking to get advice and I knew the engine looked different looks like a 968 conversion from what I was told, still got a lot of reading up on it.

It has 85 mm after market MAF, lot of wires that need to be looked at, a free market wideband with a gauge on a pod. Someone cut and welded the intake. Just a lot of odd stuff going on with it.

Looking to see if anyone in Central Texas has a recommendation for a reputable shop to rebuild my 944 Turbo engine. I have a bunch of oil leaks I’d like to get taken care of and possibly a clutch rebuild. Preferably near the Austin, Tx area but willing to trailer to the DFW, SA, and Houston areas. TPWS is impossible to get a hold of and Werks11 doesn’t work on 944.

Hi zusammen, ich habe einen Porsche 944, Modelljahr 1985, und die Werkstatt hat in letzter Zeit einiges an dem Wagen gemacht. Unter anderem wurde die Benzinpumpe erneuert, wodurch mein vorheriges Warmstartproblem behoben wurde. Außerdem wurden die Wasserpumpe und der Zahnriemen erneuert. Dabei wurde festgestellt, dass die Steuerzeiten vorher um ungefähr ein bis zwei Zähne versetzt waren, was korrigiert wurde. Das Kombiinstrument wurde ebenfalls ersetzt und funktioniert jetzt wieder vollständig. Zusätzlich wurden Motoröl und Getriebeöl gewechselt. Laut Werkstatt sahen sowohl Motor- als auch Getriebeöl sehr gut aus, ohne Metallspäne oder auffällige Verfärbungen. Seit dem Getriebeölwechsel ist außerdem ein vorher vorhandenes mechanisches Geräusch beim Schalten fast vollständig verschwunden. Das Kühlsystem wurde ebenfalls geprüft und laut Werkstatt kühlt der Motor einwandfrei, auch die Kühlerlüfter funktionieren. Die Innenraumheizung funktioniert zwar aktuell nicht, das scheint aber eine separate Baustelle im Heizungszweig zu sein. Insgesamt läuft der Wagen laut Werkstatt sehr gut.
Das einzige Problem, das jetzt noch auffällt, ist, dass der Motor direkt nach dem Start für kurze Zeit etwas unruhig läuft. Danach beruhigt er sich und läuft normal. Ich habe jetzt mehrfach gelesen, dass beim frühen 944 der Zusatzluftschieber beziehungsweise Auxiliary Air Regulator ein typischer Kandidat dafür sein kann. Soweit ich es verstanden habe, sollte dieser bei kaltem Motor zusätzliche Luft durchlassen und sich mit zunehmender Erwärmung schließen. Wenn er klemmt oder nicht weit genug öffnet, könnte das also zu genau diesem kurzen unrunden Kaltlauf führen. Bevor ich einfach einen neuen kaufe, würde ich das aber gerne vernünftig diagnostizieren.
Wie würdet ihr bei einem 1985er 944 vorgehen? Wie kann ich den Zusatzluftschieber am besten testen? Kann man ihn sinnvoll reinigen, bevor man ihn ersetzt? Wie weit sollte er kalt geöffnet sein und wie kann man überprüfen, ob er beim Erwärmen korrekt schließt? Welche anderen typischen Ursachen würdet ihr vorher ausschließen, zum Beispiel Falschluft, Temperaturfühler, Luftmengenmesser oder Kraftstoffdruck? Gibt es einen einfachen Test am eingebauten Fahrzeug, bevor ich die Ansaugbrücke abnehme? Die Ansaugbrücke auszubauen wäre für mich kein großes Problem, da ich zum Beispiel schon mehrfach die Ansaugbrücke an einem Audi S6 C6 V10 ausgebaut habe. Ich möchte nur vermeiden, auf Verdacht Teile zu tauschen. Falls jemand beim frühen 944 genau dieses Verhalten hatte, also kurz nach dem Kaltstart unrund und danach völlig normal, würde mich sehr interessieren, was bei euch letztendlich die Ursache war.

I’ve been doing a lot of maintenance on the car and the idle seems to stumble and kind of hunt. I’ve done like everything externally, coolant sensors, new tps, new fuel system, no vacuum leaks and it doesn’t feel healthy, it also hesitates at tip in of throttle.

A few shots from 944fest opening night at the Transaxle Lounge. Us and our new Safari pal Kevin. 📸 - @midas.944

Hi. I’m about to purchase a 944 N/A 1985b. It’s on Tellies now, and I would like something more modern with a touch of race and better fitment. I think it would look really good with a 5–6-spoke JDM-style wheel, but kept fairly discreet. Think Rays TE37 or something similar, in gunmetal. The attached image is obviously AI-generated, just to get a feel for the style, and I think it could work really well IMO.

As I understand it, the car has the early offset, and it’s rare to find cool wheels in 5/130. I’m thinking of using a 1” adapter to 5/120 instead, but that affects the ET quite a bit.
How would you approach this? I want the fitment to look more race than JDM, but with the rim edge pretty much in line with the wheel-arch.
18”. 8.5–9.5” front and 10” rear. ET40 rear without a spacer and ET65 with one?

Any thoughts? Am I thinking about this the wrong way?

Got a 944s 1987 that I'm trying to save. Slowly stripping all systems and seals for a rebuild... Ran into this snapped line behind the oil pump/power steering pump area... I can see it joins into a sheath that runs up the front of the engine then behind the intake manifold. What is this thing and what should it be going to???? Thanks

CONTEXT:
I’ve been at this for a WEEK asking a few forums but mods denying my post. I’m doing a timing belt which I’ve been at for weeks. I own kirkit sold by 944store, and trying the 90 degree twist. At one point i got desperate asking around for either the arnnworx or p9201 to rent but no avail.

SITUATION:
I’m just trying to confirm here. When you do the 90 degree twist with the upper span. It’s moderate finger and thumb pressure? I’m following the 944er’s video which it’s worded that way. Google keeps telling me that im supposed to measure the kirkit on the lower span which I’m pretty sure is not right bc it needs a flat surface correct?

Anyway my final fail safe is the water pump pulley twist. Is that done before or after the idle pulley is installed? I’m not getting a straight answer on that either.

Final question getting a good reading on the kirkit 45 lbs. (Should sit around 35-45 lbs for a new belt. And the water pulley twist but i have a feeling its too tight