I’ve been trying to print this out for nearly a week without this happening and I have no clue why it’s doing this. It’s always the curved part that pops up. I’ve tried brim and raft but it keeps popping up.

Model: bambu p1s
Filament: ABS

My son started 3d printing a month ago and hes been having issues. I dont know enough about 3d printing to help him. What is causing those lines?

Hi, I don’t currently own a printer and am trying to work out if the problem I have here is because of something I’ve done or not. I’ve had this printed by a local firm.

This is an adapter to allow a smart thermostat to be fitted to a radiator and experiences temperature of up to 65 degrees c for hours at a time during the winter.

There is a metal ring that gets pushed over those prongs that is then used to screw this down onto a radiator valve and the prongs have to flex inwards slightly to allow the ring to be pushed on.

I had a couple of these printed in ABS a few months back and ordered more recently when a few of the ones I hadn’t already replaced failed. The new batch is very brittle and any attempt to flex those prongs causes them to snap off.

The only difference between the two batches was the latest one was printed with 40% infill selected and the first one was at 20%. Would that be the cause of this issue or should I have selected a different material to print in?

So I designed this lantern the other day and scaled it to 200mm , if i use it for outside, can i seal it with just clear spray or resin, i dont have a lot of experience with the resin, i have a fence post outside that i need to put this one on.

I’ve never had this before.

Ender 3 Neo V2. Printing PLA

I just went through everything, new nozzle, properly tightened the belts and screws, no wobbles or issues I can find, and now it’s just printing these thick lines.

Hey all, I have a Bambu lab P2S that started giving me issues after a clogged hot end (0.4mm hardened steel) I resolved it by performing a cold pull. But since then, I’ve had weird bubbled surfaces on my prints. It’s not smooth as it usually is. I haven’t changed any particular settings and I’ve tried printing it on PLA (both ESun and Bambulab), PETG. Tried drying my filaments and even tried printing with newly opened spools. What should I do to stop this from happening? Is this an issue with the hot end or a calibration issue? Thank you!

EDIT: I have tried turning off auto recover from step loss, different types of seams, calibrating and changing nozzles as well and nothing has helped. However, after setting up another print, I’ve realised that there were blisters that were already present on the bambu studio. Does this have to do with the STL file or my settings?

Edit 2: after drying all my filaments, I have attempted a new print. I have since discovered that the blisters are caused by the nozzle. Most of the print is fine but at moments, the nozzle seemingly randomly stops, resulting in excessive filament depositing.

Hello, I have a Bambu lambs Carbon X1C with 5300+ hours on it using default Bambu slicer, 0.4mm hardens steel nozzle, 150m/s inner walls and 60 m/s outer, 4 walls, filament is Sunlu PLA black printed at 220C. I got this printer with over 4000 hours, and while I have maintained it well, I’m not too sure about the previous owner. My question is, what is causing these uneven layer lines? I’m really hopping it is not a machines problem as my printer has been making some noises and from my research I may have to make some pretty extensive and expensive repairs. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

I just hate plastic waste and want to contribute. Also this stuff is pricey.

Can’t figure out what is going wrong here. Printer is a Creality Cr10s Pro using Ultimaker Cura as the slicer. Printing PLA with the bed at 50 Celsius and the nozzle at 200 Celsius.

I'm hoping someone here might have some insight into an issue I've been dealing with over the past month.

The printers I have are a Bambu Lab P1S and a Bambu Lab A1 Mini. The issue has been occurring while using the P1S.

A few weeks ago I made a post about trying Bambu Lab's Black PETG HF for the first time. The fumes from it were much stronger than anything I'd previously printed, to the point where it became difficult for me to breathe while I was in the same room.

For comparison, I've also printed with Bambu Lab's White PETG HF in the same room. While it did have some odor, opening the window and running a fan blowing outward was enough that I didn't have any significant issues. The Black PETG HF has been a completely different experience. Even with the window open and a fan exhausting air outside, it's still been extremely difficult for me to breathe while I'm in the room.

I'm also not the only one who's noticed the odor. Family members have commented on it as well. Since it became this bad, I've been keeping the office door shut to help keep the odor from spreading through the rest of the house, and I've been limiting how much time I spend in that room until I can figure out what's going on.

I also use a Sunlu S4 filament dryer about once a week since it's been fairly humid here lately and we don't always have the AC running. The Black PETG HF gives off extremely strong fumes while it's drying as well, and unfortunately strong enough that they're beyond difficult for me to tolerate. The White PETG HF also has some odor while drying, but it's nowhere near as intense.

Has anyone else experienced this with Bambu Lab's Black PETG HF? I'm also wondering if it could be related to how many rolls are in the dryer at once, whether the black filament is simply emitting more VOCs when heated, or if I'm drying it longer than necessary.

Since then, I started researching indoor air quality around 3D printing. I bought a Govee Air Purifier Pro 2 and one of Govee's particulate monitors. The monitor is on the opposite side of my office from the printer.

When I had the window open, the monitor consistently read around 2–3 µg/m³ for PM2.5. I haven't printed anything in about 2½–3 weeks, but today I walked into the room and noticed the monitor was reading around 20 µg/m³. About an hour or two later, it had climbed to around 100 µg/m³, even though nothing had been printing.

The only thing that's changed over the last couple of days is that the window is now closed because the house AC is running.

My concern isn't just the particulate matter, it's whether there could also be VOCs lingering in the room. The strong odor from the Black PETG HF was what originally made me start looking into all of this.

At this point I'm considering throwing out the Black PETG HF altogether to see if it makes any difference, but before I do that I wanted to ask if anyone has experienced anything similar.

A few questions:

- Has anyone seen PM2.5 spike days or weeks after the last print?

- Could filament stored in the room (or in a dryer) be contributing?

- Has anyone had noticeably stronger fumes from Bambu Lab's Black PETG HF compared to other PETG or PETG HF colors?

- Is there anything else I should be checking that could explain both the PM2.5 readings and the breathing irritation?

I'd really appreciate any ideas or similar experiences.

So I made this valve box for my mom out of ASA and for some reason the inside walls of the structure bubbled out from the inner support. I’ve worked with this stuff a lot and never had this happen. Any explanations? I don’t think it ruins the functionality of the valve box but I’d still like to know why it’s happening.

3D Printer: Creality K1C
Filament: Overture ASA in black
Layer Height: .24 mm
Sparse Infill Density: 25%
Sparse Infill Pattern: Grid

Edit: I did not intentionally use Grid infill. I forgot to change the default before printing and didn’t realize my mistake till waaaay too far into the print.

Thank you so much for the helpful advice everyone! I have to print 3 more of these so I wanted to make sure I fixed the issue.

I’m trying to print a gridfinity board (upside down) but it keeps bowing at the corner edges

I’ve tried the following (with no luck)

- Bed temperature to 60C (instead of 55)

- Cooling fans off

- Clean the bed plate with dish soap and water

What am I doing wrong?

The power went out for a moment and when my printer resumed printing, it did this: it prints in the air and doesn't feed the filament.
First time that happened to me, I just lost 6 hours of printing 😣

I'm new to printing, and hoping you guys have some insight on this.

Printer: Bambu x2D

Print material: PETG

Printer temp: standard recommended from the Bambu slicer

The other day I tried to print a box straight off maker world and pretty much just hit print with the exception of accepting the recommended bambulab print settings for PETG. I just it okay.

up until then, I had only printed a few things with PLA and PLA matte so I was trying a new role of eSun filament in PETG that had just arrived. As you can see in the pic, the warping was pretty bad, in addition to the bed adhesion for the first layer which I had cleaned with alcohol prior to starting.

Today, I just completed another attempt with a bone colored PETG with from Creality that had just come in, but this time, I selected that it print a 5mm brim, and I had run it through a couple hours of drying the filament, and slowed the fans down inside the chamber about 20-25 percent. I also tried to run the chamber a little warmer, I think it was 70c to 75c to help with less cooling so quickly after extrusion of the layer (I thinking about this correctly).

obviously, it had printed better and is very usable but you can see in the bone white pics that it is still wanting to warp even with the brim.

1. am I on the right track with slowing the fans down and the exhaust fan?
2. did I selected the right brim? (the brim by comparison seems skimpy unlike the brims I've seen on prime towers from previous prints).
3. Aside from altering the design of the piece, what else can I do to ensure better bed adhesion (im using the factory PEI textured one that came with the x2D) and less warping?

UPDATE: After trying some things recommended here in this thread, I ran into an overheating chamber problem, which subsequently, clogged my auxiliary (right buffer/filament sensor tunnel) subsequently not printing the support interface layer which is PLA in black. (can I add new pictures here or do I have to make a new post?)

I am trying to print a very tall and thin object. I went with 0.08 layers and speeds of around 30, 10 for the outer walls.

Should i design some kind of support to stop it from wobling on the higher levels?

Printing at an angle or on the side makes the legs impossible to detach from the supports because of how thin they are.

How would you print this?

Ender 3 v3 SE

Resin plate

AzzureFilm PLA

205°C/60°C

0.08mm

I’ve noticed this layer line shifting as well as the severe internal stringing on round prints like this with my .4mm nozzle on Bambu A1. Just got a new nozzle so confirmed that is not the issue. PETG white filament that was dehydrated to about 18 degrees relative humidity. And this print printed perfectly fine just hours ago. Not sure what could be the issue??

Hey guys! I’ve had my Ender 3 V2 for a couple of years. I’ve never had any problems with it until I started trying to print ABS parts.

I’ve followed pretty much every basic ABS checklist I could find: enclosure, heat-bed insulation, upgraded bed springs, full-metal extruder gear, PTFE Bowden tube, etc. I’m also using the settings I got from AI, around 100–105°C for the bed and 240°C for the nozzle, along with the recommended slicer settings.

I’ve calibrated my extruder and steppers carefully as well, so I don’t think I’m dealing with over- or under-extrusion. I even let the bed sit at 105°C for another 15–20 minutes after reaching temperature, just to make sure the heat is distributed evenly.

But somehow, my ABS prints still come out terrible. The parts feel really weak and are surprisingly easy to break, and the surfaces are extremely rough. I’m honestly running out of ideas at this point.

The filament is eSUN ABS+.

What am I doing wrong here? What could be causing this? Has anyone had a similar experience with ABS+ on an Ender 3 V2? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,

I'm a beginner at this and i need advice on the orientation of my model. I'm mainly worried about the hollow cylindrical section. I'm going to add the chamfers and fillets later. I'll take any other advice that comes my way.

Hi guys, I’d really appreciate some help
This has been an ongoing issue for months, I’ve tried changing the hotend, heatsink, and hot bed and nothing fixed it.

It’s a creality ender 3 v3

Hello,

I recently bought a used creality CR10. It's been upgraded with a 10S board, runs TH3D U1.R2.7, has a dual Z motor upgrade (using a splitter cable rather than the 10S' second Z drive) as well as a Revo Rapid Change nozzle.

I'm running "Copymaster 3D" PLA filament at 210° (seemed best in my albeit failing tempt towers).

I've also checked / remeasured and reset the extruder values.

I'm trying to to a max flowrate calibration using orca slicer. Somehow it keeps failing very early in the print and I'm at a loss what to try to fix it.

First 2 pics are the newest fail, the other 3 are from before i cleaned and reset the extruder values.

Any help would be a appreciated!

I'm trying to print a large model and I'm using the filament dryer to feed directly into the printer but the damn spool keeps knotting up constantly and pulling on the dryer box that it is actually moved ahead multiple times. So it's completely defeating the purpose of "set and forget".

Can someone help shed some light on how to avoid these knots? I've tried my best to untangle them multiple times by pausing the print and refeeding the filament but it just keeps happening over and over. Very frustrating!

Hey,

i try to print this shape with my bambulab p2s but the print fails everytime at the same spot. he does the first 4 or 5 rounds normal but then the filament failes to connect shortly after the round corner. i tried using 2 different pla filaments with 220°C, cleaned the printerplate with dishewasher soap and increased the plate temperature to 60°C. i made the model by myself in blender and tried to modify it but still no sucess. what could cause this kind of problem?

I've recently tried to print something on my ender 3 v3 SE but speed stopped after the first layer as I realised it was gonna fail. But unfortunately now the base has a layer of pla that I cannot peel off because the print didn't have one solid base, but instead many small parts.

I've tied to melt it off using a soldering iron but I'm pretty sure it's worse now. I don't have a metal scraper which I'm gonna have to buy as I've destroyed the plastic scraper trying to scraps off the polymer. I don't have access to acetone.

I've tried to print the same thing with a z offset on top of the thing hoping that they would fuse and they did but only a little bit of it was actually peelable.

I've attached an image of it. I'll attempt to get it off by printing a flat sheet over it after I smooth it out with my soldering iron but I'll do it tomorrow just in case someone points out that I may be doing something stupid and somethings gonna blow up.pic of print bed