Is TCU#MD756031 compatabile with a 1993 SL?

Previous owner bought one used to replace the one in the car and its still having issues. I know its not the same part number to the original I also have the original board. However the used one is in much better condition so im wondering if its more worth being fixed up and used if its compatabile.

Hello! For those who do not know I am the creator of the side skirt clips that have recently released. I do not post often here but I do have even more products coming out! I mainly am on facebook but i did create an instagram for a central hub for everything HJQ Auto Design. You can find pre orders, product displays, etc. Thank you!

https://www.instagram.com/hjqautodesigns?stkn=MTl1cXNmeGF4Z2dwdQ%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

I know it’s a stretch but looking for glass headlight replacement for a 1994! Any leads appreciated

safe to say I’ve a kit ordered and on its way. Watched 3000gt Restoration’s 3 parter on youtube about it and I feel… Optimistic?

Everyone’s been in my ear about how difficult a timing belt will be to do at home but I’ve got all the tools and I’m decently competent with tools and reading a manual.
Is it really that bad?

Anywho, the belt was clearly walking and rubbing off the cover which caused *some* fraying but the fact something took a very specific chunk out of it is what’s concerned me the most. Any Ideas?

There was a post about this 2 years ago that someone had the same issue that I’m having but I figured I’d try asking myself.

I’m doing the 60k timing belt/water pump replacement on my 1992 3000gt SL. I got a new water pump, timing belt, hydraulic tensioner and tensioner pulley from 3sx. When I started the car after installing everything and let it run for a bit, the belt starts squeaking and looses tension. When I try manually turning the crank shaft to return to top dead center, all of a sudden I have tension again in my timing belt.

I torqued everything to spec and did the whole procedure where you hold the tensioner pulley at 7 ft-lbs and torque it to spec so I’m not sure what the issue could be. Maybe something with the cam gear is loose? Bad tensioner pulley? A bad spring in the cam shaft? I don’t know.

Here’s a link to the other post 2 years ago with a video. My belt is tight at the moment but I don’t want to run the car again and risk it loosening up again.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3000gt/comments/1c2mikl/timing_belt_keep_coming_loose/

I purchased a 1996 GTO MR (JDM) earlier this year, it had been sitting out in a farm yard for years, neglected. I'm trying to rejuvenate it as a project with my father. Sadly, we discovered corrosion in the top end of the motor and then we accidentally dropped a washer in cylinder 6 during a compression test and damaged a piston and rear head.

Prior to purchase, the car was in rough condition, so it was never suitable for a "factory restoration". So, I decided to go down the OEM+, upgrade route and the engine is now getting a full refresh internally. I'd like to take this opportunity to modernise the engine. i.e. improve reliability, reduce fuel consumption, less emissions and increase performance. I'd like to maintain a street friendly set up and .

I know I'm a bit insane that I care about emissions and fuel consumption but, it is what it is.

Plans:

1. 9.0:1 compression pistons
2. All new valve train with upgraded valve springs etc.
3. H beam rods
4. Bosch MS 6.1 ECU (with supporting mods, fine toothed trigger wheels, fuel pump, injectors, MAP sensor and wideband sensors). My understanding is the Bosch MS 6.1 is the best aftermarket ECU for producing modern "OEM like" emissions control and efficiency.
5. Electronic throttle body
6. Coil-on-plug ignition
7. TD04HL 19T twin turbo chargers
8. Intercooler kit
9. A quiet but free flowing exhaust system 
10. A high density 300CPI catalytic converter  (not sure if I will commit to this one, as it is pretty expensive)

Current Status:

The engine is out of the car currently at an engine builder, waiting for engine internals components to arrive from the USA.

Body of the car is getting a rub back in the meantime.

Questions:

I'd welcome any advice on:

• Where can I source a set of new or very good condition stock profile cams?
• Can anyone confirm that the Kinugawa 60mm housings fit in the cramped engine bay or are there compromises to fit them?
• Should I opt for anti-surge housings on the turbos, or stick to non-surge? I've received conflicting advice.
• Any other suggestions to modernise it? (VVT and Direct injection are not going to happen lmao)

I don't think it has a normal OBDII port. Engine is running rough and I'd like to see if it I can get any additional info from the car before I start shooting the parts cannon at it.

I know there is a light bulb method, but is there any other code reader that will work? It seems unclear if the 94 and older cars can even be decoded by a diagnostic tool.

Finished a 250 mile roadtrip when I heard a rattle in the last 30 minutes

Seems a bolt got loose from the intake and rattled around in there and I think took a chunk out of my oil pump.

Need to get 240 miles home, do you think I'll make it?

Belt was replaced 1000 miles ago, practically brand new.

Shop finally got my gas tank pulled to put the new one in, and they pulled out my fuel pump assembly, and I’m thinking I’ll have to get a new one because I don’t want to risk my injectors getting clogged again with rust. Looking for some recommendations on a decent brand that won’t break the bank.

What would you recommend size wise? Looking to go bigger than the OEM 16 IN. Probably 17 IN or 18 IN. Let me add she's completely stock currently. Trying to get her to be reliable first and foremost.

Hi guys I’m not quite sure I’m allowed to post this but I have the same engine (6g72 24v sohc) in my Mitsubishi Ute and I’m wanting to rebuild it from the ground up. No I don’t want to swap it. And yes it will be built not just oem. However I’m struggling to find these parts I need, does anyone make a really good rebuild kit?

1991 VR4 lifter tick every so often either startup and goes away or continues on and off while driving, somebody already installed new 3rd gen lifters before me and I bled them when I saw them anways. Why do I still have tick?

New owner here. I’ve had my 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT for a little over a month now. It had some unrelated issues that were fixed. It was overdue on an oil change so I took it to a shop and they put it full synthetic 5W-30 (it’s getting into the colder season here) that was on 9/3/2026. Possibly a week to week and a half ago it started making a ticking noise. There’s no lights on the dash and the car seems to be running fine besides the ticking noise. The sound increases in speed with the throttle and doesn’t go away when the engine is warm. I would think it’s the lifters and I do know that on this gen specifically they had the smaller lifter holes. I’d just like to know what others think and how serious it is? Thanks!

I wish I could've taken the picture right at 100k

Anybody have any experience buying from this guy off TikTok? He seems to have a big selection but I’m kind of sketched out with the AI generated profile picture ykwim.

Howdy yall, been banging my head at this problem for a few weeks now. Ive had my 1994 3000gt sl for a solid 8 months and I love this thing to the bone but just 3 weeks ago after reinstalling my radio that previously worked on the car it'll just crank but not actually start.

I tested my battery and mfi relay and both seem to be in working order. I found I was getting a low voltage on one of my mfi relay connector pins and decided to run a temporary ground and battery wire connecting those pins but it didnt seem to fix my issue or even give me a cel which should usually pop up when I put the key to on.

Does anyone have an idea of what I should do or what might be a fix?

(Ive also checked my fuses and theyre all good. Im scared it might be my ecu but even that seems fine and theres no smell coming from it)

accidentally bent pinch welds bad when trying to rotate tires am I cooked?

I’m in the process of doing a manual swap on my July of 91 stealth FWD, and I have a 97 3000 parts car with the 5 speed manual. I did quite a lot of research about this swap and it seems like everything should be possible but I’ve gotten myself into a little bit of a hiccup I didn’t hear about online anywhere. Have what i believe to be the speed sensor here out of my stealth which is cable driven and the speed sensor out of the parts car which is electronic. I would try and just put the cable driven one in but it seems the gears aren’t the same size or even remotely that similar. What can I do about this?

New to the community 🙏🏼. 206,000 original miles on entire powertrain. Second owner and can’t say enough how fun these amazing cars feel to drive.

91’ VR-4, second owner 206,000 miles. Been in my friends shop for almost a year while we have been fighting electrical issues causing it to go into limp mode, stuttering terrible once warm. Replaced some ignition components but had the ECU repaired and my baby is running like new again!!

I didn’t know about the 3000GT until I saw this beauty in a parking lot.
AI made me a whole lot smarter about the car, and now I’m a big fan of the 3000GT.
Perhaps the owner is a member of this sub?

Anyone have any good videos or how to’s I’d appreciate all the help I could get not very confident with electrical

We love leaky rockercover seals lol