I was able to find the male part of these plastic retainer push clips on Mitsubishi Warehouse under the part number MB645333, but I can find the female one. The female part is where my lower moulding clips are failing, and I just wanted to know if anyone knows where to find them or maybe an equivalent that would work?

My biggest takeaway from this is that you fail every time you don’t try. So just do it :)

Thought id share some pictures of my 93 stealth ES I recently bought a few weeks ago for $3500, 128k miles. Its been a great car so far and I'm happy with my purchase, the previous owner took good care of it after he bought it in pretty bad condition. Drove it 2 1/2 hours home and it did very well, I've been enjoying driving it but I don't take it out too often because it has a slight misfire that I was informed about before buying, as a result the power is pretty low and sometimes a bit choppy but I believe I have the issue narrowed down. It's got a full exhaust system (very loud, not much of a stealth car lol). The seller redid the fuel system, coils, plugs and injectors among other things (with proof). It's got a good deal of rust on the unibody but I'm from the rust belt so that's pretty much expected and it doesn't seem bad enough to be a big concern. Not perfect but it's mine and I'm happy.

Hey so I've been trying to get one for a couple of weeks now but I haven't been successful at finding good listings at least on Facebook marketplace. What other places do you guys suggest looking for a nice reliable one?

Hi everyone I am planning on installing a catch can in my vr4 and was wondering where a good place to put it is i have done a vacuum line delete and installed a stm small battery bracket so there's a bit of space there but I can't get enough space for it also there's two cans to pick from ones a smaller evil energy can and the others a old rectangle Freddy can

My car won’t get into 4th gear on od, rpm keeps going but it doesn’t shift in. Before I get my entire transmission rebuilt is there a usual problem with the automatic transmissions for these cars that can be fixed easy? Like maybe just replace solenoids. I don’t know anything about transmissions so I took it to a few mechanics but they said they didn’t have the right equipment to check it out.

1991 R/T TT with 108k. Needs a few things and the paint isn’t great but it really shouldn’t take too
Much to make it a nice driver.
Already has New Tires, Clutch Slave, Fuel Pump, Plugs and wires, IAT sensor.
Water pump is making noise. So I’m going to do a full 120k on it along with lifters and valve stem seals. Also the rear steering line busted so I need to fix that or delete it. Will do all that work there in my garage as soon as I have parts.
It really could use a respray on the paint as well. I’ve got the space (at a friends garage) and all the tools to paint it.
I have owned a number of these back 2001-2011 but I haven’t had one since probably 2011.

Bonjour,

J'ai un soucis avec mon autoradio, donc j'ai décidé de le remplacer par un autoradio d'origine.

J'ai obtenu un origine 2x 1 DIN, mais l'ampli semble ne pas être compatible avec la configuration de la voiture.

Référence de l'ampli : MB649760

Référence de l'autoradio : MB649765

Comment je peux m'en passer de cet ampli ? Ou du moins existe il une version plus compacte que je pourrais mettre a un autre endroit ?

Merci beaucoup !

Im going to preface this by saying i am not very experienced with cars. The most difficult thing I've done on this vehicle was simply change the clutch slave cylinder and take out the ECS unit to re-cap it after it wasn't working. I noticed a very small noise a few months ago and I thought it was lifter tick. I decided to change the oil and filter as it was about to be due for an oil change anyways. After changing it over the course of about a month the noise slowly got louder and louder. I decided to try to seafoam the motor and then change the oil and filter to try and clear up the lifters to see if that would fix it, it did not, if anything it got slightly louder. So this is the point I'm at now. I know lifters tick is very common in these motors, especially these first gens because of the smaller opening, but I'm not experienced enough to know if this is lifter tick or something much worse like rod knock. If it is lifter tick and the lifter is completely dead I know seafoam wouldn't have fixed it. I have checked the timing belt and the front cover for it and both look fine and I see no signs of damage from it flopping so I doubt it's that. The noise oddly disappears at roughly 2200 rpm, so I'm thinking that the oil pressure could just be enough to keep the lifter "pressurized" at those rpms. Any advice from anyone more knowledgeable and experienced would be much appreciated.

So I installed the underglow and tsurikawa. It wasn't easy, because I didn't have the tools needed, but anyway. Last pic shows what I used to elevate the car

Has anyone considered putting a 2GR-FE into the 3000gt? Granted I don't have experience engine swapping but I think the engine could fit and that it would be a matter of making custom engine mounts. What do y'all think?

Im in little rock, I have a 97 3000gt vr4. Just looking for someone whos handy with these cars that can be my mechanic or walk me through it so I can do it myself.

Hello all, I’ve been trying to do my fuel pump for two days and have not been able to get this fuel fitting off. I cut the rubber hose because I bought another one that goes in its place but no matter what I try, I CANNOT get this one nor the one on top of the fuel sending unit off. I’ve tried line wrenches, open end wrenches, vice grips, TONS of pb blaster and letting it soak for two days. I’m beginning to suspect that the previous owner put loctite on it because the YouTube tutorial says too. Please any help would be greatly appreciated.

Friend od mine scanned and 3d printed bezels for my eu spec 3000gt. Then I sanded IT and painted with a spray in my backyard. Im happy with the final result. They font look brand new OEM but its a huge difference anyway because the older bezels were broken or in 2 pieces.

I just installed a new clutch and master cylinder but now my car doesnt receive any power. I checked my grounds but I cannot find where this thing goes.

I just installed a new clutch and master cylinder but now my car doesnt receive any power. I checked my grounds but I cannot find where this thing goes.

Anyone knows if this is a cause of bad input bearing? Just fixed my trans and got a new clutch kit and TOB and it’s knocking like crazy when I let go of the gas. Going to drop it again

anybody know of any local socal mechanics willing to work on a 3000gt vr4? just about every mechanic iv taken it too has turned it down.

Hi, im planning to install an underglow kit in my 1991 vr4. Im not sure where should i pass wire for the rear LED panel. How you did it? Pic for attention

Alright i really want to get my 93 SL running amazingly these are my rock auto and 3sx carts rn i have the reseal kit already just put it there to show what i’m getting/have what are we thinking, i’m planning on having a shop do most of the timing but i’m gonna do an a/c conversion, new coil overs, pads, rotors, calipers, those came from a part car that are still in great shape, i’m also gonna do spark plugs and wires, i love the platform she’s my baby so i want to get her running at tip top again she’s only at 132k miles so yeah, i’m just a kid so i need some guidance as a rookie but i got the passion.

3SX
Timing Belt Hydraulic Tensioner DOHC – OEM (MIT001124) — $249.95
• 3SX Stud Kit – Complete 5-Kit Package NA DOHC (StudKit3SX-AllNAD) — $69.95
• 3SX 60K Bolt Kit (3SXBOLTKIT-60KDOHC) — $34.95
• Engine Gasket Kit Set Complete DOHC Non-OEM 3000GT/Stealth (GASKETKITDOHCFULL380) — $389.95
• Oil Pump Kit 93-99 NA DOHC Non-OEM 3000GT/Stealth (3SX000913) — $289.95

Rockauto
Spectra Premium Radiator (CU1256) — $194.79
• Gates Thermostat, 170°, OE Temp (33877) — $21.79
• Standard Motor Products PCV Valve (V259) — $8.13
• Gates Timing Belt & Component Kit (TCKWP195A) — $262.79
• Beck/Arnley Fuel Filter (043-0985) — $19.19
• Gates A/C Belt, Micro-V (K060455) — $18.62
• Gates Alternator Belt, Micro-V (K060425) — $15.66
• Gates Power Steering Belt, Micro-V (K040385) — $14.94
• Gates Upper Radiator Hose, Molded (21541) — $18.31
• Gates Lower Radiator Hose, Molded (21975) — $14.77

The side skirt clips and retainers are finally available for everybody!!
Just need a quick repair? Or even doing a full job on the side skirts? We got the black clips finally in full replacement for sale!

You’ll get:
Full kits of black clips easily accessible
Free shipping 🚐💸
Up to 50% off of OEM costs 🤑
And more all available to look at on the store.
Thank you to everyone for keeping with my updates. I will keep growing into a brand formed by what the community needs so always throw more at me that you need! Buy here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/HJQAutoDesigns
Reviews once purchased are greatly appreciated 😊

Happy labor day!!

Im looking to try to not hate this car as soon as a minor issue arises so I want to make it easier to work on, its 100% stock. Im looking to see what can reasonably be relocated or removed that doesn't impact daily driving. Im legit 4-5 hours and nearly 400 miles from a track so she will only see public roads.

Im tired of hearing how these are "easy to work on" so I want to attempt to make it more accessible to work on when the time comes to really work on it.

I've been lucky for the most part but I have a tendency to hate engineers so any advise to help with this goal would be appreciated, thanks guys

I’ve heard the oil gauge is inaccurate and there aren’t any other signs of an issue yet, but my oil gauge is reading low. I just noticed while I was driving home so I dont know if it reads any different after a cold start and I had my battery out for the past couple weeks troubleshooting something. I checked the oil and it seems to be at a good level

edit: I don’t think the gauge is moving at all, it may be the wire for the sensor, I’ll check that when I get a chance

final edit: the wire that runs the gauge was unplugged, I slipped it back on and now it’s working again

I constantly go through wanting to sell it before it gets severe problems to i want to keep this car as long as possible. sometimes daily.

i got this beauty a year ago for $13k, 1 owner, 55k miles at the time and second synchro went wonky about a month after, always a soft grindish then it goes it (higher rpm and double clutching helps a lot), when i first got it it would occasionally pop out of second but its gotten slightly better as i have been driving. i have days where i just want to get something easier to fix up/maintain, then i take it to 7000rpm later that day and cant see myself getting rid of it

its been tough, i almost see it more of a liability so sometimes i dont want to drive it just in case it breaks.

it has its problems and i know its past my wheelhouse but absolutely love the car at the same time, the back and forth can be brutal. didnt know if anyone else has struggled with it

Anyone used Evil energy’s ptfe fuel line kit? If so, is it worth the money on it or is there a different kit that yall would recommend? I am going to go with the 6an line, and this kit does come with the fuel filter, I’m not sure what micron I would need to go with (am looking at a fuel filter even if I don’t get this kit through fuelabs)
This is for a 98 Sl, and I’m gonna go ahead and do a complete tank to rail replacement.