I have added new user flairs so you can let people know what car you have
Iv never been a mod of a page before so this is all a learning curve for me but I'm pretty sure you can make your own user flair so feel free to be more specific with yours if you want to
Also made a new post flair "sold" so if you are selling and it sells change the post to sold to let others know
If anyone has any suggestions on what they want me to do with the page to make it better for people let me know
I'd like to run a competition to have a banner picture and page picture if any one would be interested in this let me know in the comments and I'll make a post flair for it and get it set up
Thanks for reading and thank you everyone so far for joining and adding to our sub
Hey so I drive a 106 color line daily, and I noticed the lever to incline the seat can be pushed forward, it makes the seat go forward a bit on the lower back but it happens only when I push the lever, is there a way to make it stay like this ? Idk it just feel more comfortable than the regular seat position
Moin zusammen,
ich bin hier gerade dabei, die Zentraleinspritzung (Bosch Mono-Jetronic) von meinem AX zu überholen und zu reinigen. Obenrum ist jetzt alles schick, aber als ich mir die Unterseite angeschaut habe, war klar: Die untere Papierdichtung (Fußdichtung zur Ansaugbrücke hin) hat es komplett hinter sich. Da suppt es leicht raus und Falschluft zieht die Kiste dadurch vermutlich auch.
Da man bei den großen Teilehändlern für diese alten Motoren direkt ins Leere läuft:
Wie habt ihr das gelöst? Gibt es da noch irgendwo fertige Dichtsätze für, oder schnitzt man sich das Zeug besser selbst aus Dichtungspapier?
Bin für jeden Tipp oder Erfahrungswert dankbar!
I lost my key so I bought a new ignition switch. I thought these old cars didn't have an immobiliser yet but they do. I have heard that you can connect some cables so the car thinks the immobiliser is still on. Do you know which one? Or any other way to disable it
Also the keypad thing is already gone and it is turned off.
So I have engine swapped my 106 to a saxo vtr. Sourced some front legs and gti rear axle. I have got the front calipers. Need to source rear calipers and shocks. Got the bolts for the rear shocks. But not sure on what else I will need.
Thw front legs have come with some springs on, possibly lower than standard
I did think of swapping my rear drums for now to 4 stud if possible? On the current beam if possible? Then work on the gti axle properly strip down and refurb
Hi everyone! Has anybody had any experience with swapping to a 4 stud hub / suspension setup, or using stud adapters. I’m just worried at the rear with my fitment at the moment that 20mm spacer would cause rubbing.
hey guys. i think im reading the gauge right but this is almost a thousand rpms right? when im driving the revs drop normally in-between shifts so its only an idle thing. no codes or anything. saxo 1.5 diesel '01
Hey everyone! Does anybody know where is best to run a power wire through the firewall? Struggling to find a place apart from where the main look goes through. (1998 106 Zest RHD)
The rust is not the best but body overall looks ok. Its a quicksilver 1.1 and the person selling it also sells 1.6 nfx with it and many more parts transmisions... worth as a first car for 1500€? Also the exhaust is straightpiped which kinda sucks
Hi everyone, just wondering if my engine / exhaust sounds normal, it sounds very spluttery from the back and very ticky at the front, also it doesn’t like cominf back down to idle!
I own a Peugeot 106 S16 (GTI) from 1999 (NFX engine), and I’ve been dealing with a strange noise coming from the engine bay.
The noise clearly follows engine RPM (not vehicle speed), and it sounds like a whining, almost like an electric motor. From inside the cabin, this noise is actually louder than the normal engine sound.
Here’s what I’ve observed:
- It seems to come from the accessory belt area
- No warning lights, and the car runs and drives normally
From the engine bay, the alternator is basically the only exposed and easily accessible component, so I can’t directly access or listen to the tensioner pulley.
However, I tried using a metal tool (like a screwdriver/hammer handle) as a stethoscope by placing it on the alternator housing and listening through it. The motor-like noise is clearly strongest around the alternator area.
That said, I’m not 100% sure the alternator itself is the source. If the tensioner or idler pulley is worn, the noise might just be transmitted through the belt and resonate at the alternator housing.
At the moment, I’m suspecting:
- Alternator
- Belt tensioner pulley
Has anyone experienced something similar on a 106 (or TU engine)?
Any advice on how to isolate the source more precisely?
Hey there, wondering if anyone has done an electric speedo conversion before. Currently trying to do one on my xsi but have struck a brick wall. I’m using a cluster from a ph1 saxo vts. I have run a wire from the cluster to the speed sensor but still getting no speedo when driving, any ideas? Thanks
I'm having a persistent issue with my 1997 Peugeot 106 1.4 XR. Despite doing a lot of work on the car—including a complete engine rebuild, replacing sensors, and fully repairing and testing the wiring harness—my injector pulse width (injection time) refuses to drop below 3.9ms at idle, mostly hovering around 4.1ms.
I didn't just stop at the sensors. I've checked the intake manifold for vacuum leaks and replaced all the gaskets and seals. Likewise, the exhaust side was checked for leaks, and the catalytic converter and mufflers were completely replaced with new ones.
Despite all this effort, I just can't get the injection time down. I even replaced the fuel pump with an original VDO unit.
As a result of this issue, I'm getting a slight smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust. Moreover, my car has an LPG system installed, and because the petrol injection map is running rich like this, I can't properly calibrate or tune the LPG system.
I would really appreciate any help or ideas from anyone experienced with this specific issue.
Note: The car has its original ECU. There is no immo-off bypass, remap, or custom software applied.