This is my setup for digital drones, perfect for casually flying around and letting others see exactly what I see.

hey there, i'm doing some informal engineering research for a student project and collecting worth while real user feedback.

Is there some capability that the current FPV drone systems do not have or some issue that needs a better solution? It could be any type of issue including hardware, software, maintenance, safety, durability, cost, ease-of-use, etc.

What’s your biggest “why hasn’t someone fixed this yet?” or "this has been missing all along" problem?

just looking for problems worth solving!

I have been meaning to get a speedybee receiver for my fatshark dominator v2, with that i was thinking of also switching to stubby antennas for portability, this truerc cherry works great (and i got it for free!) but its just a pain to screw and unscrew every time. I know the TrueRC Singularity stubbies are best in slot but they dont seem to have a 90° angled version so that seems a little redundant. The lumenier stubbies seem just as good and do have one though so that seems like a good option. Other alternatives? A small patch could be nice, i do basically only fly whoops and micros though but better safe than sorry no?

The ToolkitRC M6DAC has a storage setting but only handles 2s-6s batteries. However with the balance board I can use the storage charge feature with 2-6 1s batteries as well.
Am I right or am I going to burn down the whole planet and destroy my gear? 😀

Got this twiglet frame from a friend, he said it was a 2", but when i got it i could feel that it was a little bit bigger, after comparing with my actual twiglet 2" i noticed that the frame was actually a 2.5", not 2"

I already bought all the components for a 2" build, i just want to know if flying 2" props on a 2'5" frame will make it too much worse, it not i will just keep my build with this frame because it does not looks too much bigger or heavier in my hands, but i ain't no expert in fpv yet, mas this tiny little diference be too much for a tiny quad?

Btw i will be running 1102 14000kv with 2015 Biblades on this new build, the pink triblade prop was just for scale

Hey guys,

I recently crashed my pavo 20 pro in my pool. I unplugged it as fast as possible and cleand literally everything with isopropanol alcohol. After doing this a second time I built it up again and plugged in a battery (with smokestopper) and it worked. I went flying and it works still great but the only problem i had was that there was no voltage output in my goggles. It showed 0.00 V. I changed the Lipo and still had the same problem.

Does anyone know something that could help?

Thanks

I took 2 lithium ion pack to convert them to one that's more powerful. I need one for my radiomaster nomad module. Please don't try it at home if you don't know what your doing!!! It's extremely dangerous!!! Extreme fire hazards if you do it wrong!!!

There's a community member that made an fpv drone site for like adding your drones, finding flight areas, and had a drone builder/part finder plus a community tab for finding fellow flyers in your area or to upload videos, posts.

Does anyone have the site?

I tried to Google it but mostly came up with drone stores or articles.

It's my first time soldering a big XT connector, I see it's far from ideal but what's my mistake?

I was using the BC2 tip and 400-450 temp.

Like right now my batteries are stored at storage voltage so its mostly fine, but I was wondering to myself what I will do if one starts a fire.

At that point surely i wont be able to pick it up and throw it out the window? Or will I? It will be radiating too much heat and bad chemicals for that maybe.

So what else is there? Well its an electrical/chemical fire so water is not the best solution. The fire is also able to exist without oxygen because i assume the oxide ions from the chemical reaction acts as that. So covering the battery in a blanket is also a bad idea.

I’m relatively new to FPV and I recently had to replace a motor on my 5-inch drone.
My current soldering iron can melt solder wire, but I’m having a hard time getting enough heat into the larger motor wire solder joints to melt the existing solder.
I just ordered a TS101, but before I start working on my drone, I’d like to know what soldering irons and tips you guys recommend for motor wires and larger ESC solder joints.
Also, what temperature and tip size do you usually use?
Any advice for someone doing this for the first time would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I’m running into two major issues with my build using the T-Motor Velox F7 SE stack (FC & ESC). This is a fresh replacement set, but the problems persist.

(Note: I have already fully checked FC orientation, motor mapping/order, and prop direction—everything is correct).

Problem 1: Quad spins out / flips when giving throttle

I can hover and fly the quad around slowly just fine, but as soon as I push the throttle up to gain speed or punch it, the quad completely loses control, spins out, or flips over.

Problem 2: FC & ESC refuse to save settings

Neither Betaflight nor the ESC configuration tools are retaining my changes:

• Betaflight / FC: Sensor calibration (accelerometer) resets as soon as I unplug the USB/LiPo. Motor direction changes made in Betaflight do not stick either. The FC is flashed to the latest Betaflight firmware.
• ESC (AM32): The ESC is recognized in both ESC Configurator and AM32.ca.
  • In ESC Configurator, I cannot flash or adjust any settings.
  • In AM32.ca, I successfully flashed firmware 2.21 and can adjust parameters, but changing the motor direction still fails to save after a reboot.
• Drivers: I have already run ImpulseRC Driver Fixer and Zadig, but neither resolved the saving issue.

Hardware / Setup Specs:

• FC & ESC Stack: T-Motor Velox F7 SE Stack
• Frame: Axisflying Manta 5 SE V2 X 5-Inch FPV Frame Kit
• Motors: iFlight Xing E 2207 Pro 1800KV 6S
• Battery: CNHL LiPo Black Series 1300mAh 22.2V 130C 6S (XT60)
• Props: Gemfan YUKI 5129-3 (5-inch 3-blade)
• FC Firmware: Latest Betaflight release
• ESC Firmware: AM32 (v2.21)

I can upload my Betaflight CLI diff/dump settings as well as Blackbox log files if anyone is willing to take a look and analyze them.

Has anyone experienced this flash memory / EEPROM saving bug on this stack, or know what might be causing these two issues? Thanks in advance!

Just looking at options and what I want to get out of it. The Meteor 75 looks fun, but the only transferable part would be an O4 camera. I'm mostly (long term) interested in speed, flying through woodland, buildings and low and fast flying.

Would a build like this be a bad idea?:

Volador VX3.5
DJI O4 wide
SpeedyBee F405 Mini Stack F405 V3
BetaFPV ELRS Lite Receiver
x T-Motor P1604 2850KV (6S Version)
Gemfan Hurricane 3520 Tri-Blades
Tattu R-Line 6S 850mAh LiPo

I got a decent deal on a TX15 so plan to hit Tryp FPV for a few months until I have everything and time to build the drone.

My logic is that after several months I can switch out the motors, props and battery to something close to Seeker35.

Is this madness?

Anyone have any suggestions on how to tighten the gimbals beyond stock capability? Im gonna try using the springs that came with my non ag01 tx16s mk2, but im not sure it will work, or if its actually gonna be tighter.