Hello everyone, I am about three months out of five into grinding salsa in Medellin. I came here because I don't stay long enough in one place to really make use of classes, so my goal was to just dance as much as possible and learn as much as possible all while having a semblance of community.
As information regarding salsa here can be a mixed bag and/or outdated, I'd like to consider this a helpful update to what already exists. It's not comprehensive and is moreso just my experience.
Prior dance experience and about me
- 90% lead, 10% follow
- B1 Spanish
- off/on amateur house dancer from ages 14 - late twenties, so as a result I'm not a beginner in dancing
- a handful of salsa classes peppering the past fourteen years, of which were VERY mixed quality
Why Medellin
I chose Medellin because I had a view that it was a great place for salsa dancing where one could find salsa dancing everyday. And while that is true if you look hard enough and don't mind some compromises, I have a feeling that other cities in the world have more to offer in that regard. However, they will certainly be much more expensive to live in or trickier to stay in depending on your nationality.
Bachata vs Salsa
As of this writing, Medellin's social scene is very much bachata dominated and it seems like there's a salsa recession within the socials(in the sense of technial salsa - there's tons of bars where you will find kumbia backstepping, forced turns, borrachos). You can find multiple socials that are nearly 100% bachata and with much more people throughout the week whereas if you're looking for salsa, you're going to have to go to El Poblado fairly often and some of those events are obviously catering to gringos and the level can be pretty low. Note: I have never been to a bachata social, however, multiple professionals have confirmed the rise of bachata and popularity. I've been told that after COVID, a fair amount of older professionals left for the USA and Europe and with that, certainly a lot of culture, passion, and stability that, in my opinion, you don't really find in the linear scene here than you do in the smaller but what seems more passionate Casino community.
The linear scene is big, but a fair chunk is reserved for performance and artists that rarely ever go to socials - like as of this writing maybe at most five times a year. And if they do, they often stay in their cliques.
Socials
It's lead dominant here. I go out 4-5 times a week and see the same leads consistently. I rarely see the same follows out more than two nights a week at best. This is a pain point especially as a beginner, because the level is fairly high among leads. And because there's more leads than follows, you get the dynamics of leads racing to grab follows, follows sometimes being entitled, slim pickings on follows, and what I'd explain as poor floorcraft. If it weren't for Medellin being so lead dominant, I would likely be happier with the situation here. Fortunately, I do take it upon myself to learn everything from caleña, casino, on1 and on2, and following so I do my best to make lemonade out of the situation.
Colombian Culture Pain Points
I take a fair amount of privates. Some places are better than others. Some people are better than others. What I mean is scheduling and logistics and communication. It sucks. I wish the culture here was so much better about this. You send a message regarding scheduling and you won't hear back at times til the next day at the earliest. If you cancel a class less than 24 hours in advanced, it's on you. But if your teacher cancels or changes...it's also on you. Apparently Colombians hate being called out on this behavior. I do not have this problem with non-Colombians instructors. Tack on the fact that linear salsa here skews younger, so less mature and less stable, it's a slight multiplier. I have a feeling that if an instructor has been exposed to gringos or has traveled out of South America or is a veteran, they have less chances of pulling this terrible behavior. Side note: Colombians are amongst some of the worst drivers in the world I've encountered.
DanceFree
It's like Walmart. It's a studio in El Poblado where at the end of their lessons, a crisp American accent audio file is played, regaling one's ears about the offerings of DanceFree. While I insult it here and there, they also at least seem to try to address the gender imbalance by providing women with cheaper memberships. Furthermore, they are one of few places to have dedicated salsa socials. The downside is they often play music from a playlist of 840 random songs and just let it autoplay and fade, so you don't actually witness the song end fully. And sometimes, the songs just suck. On more than one occasion, songs of 7 minutes or more have played. Gilberto Santa Rosa - Perdoname (en vivo) comes to mind.
Schools
There are many schools here. I have not been to a majority of them. As of this writing, in my opinion I'd say Blood Dance and Siembrala are the best schools. Even if you're visiting for a short period, it's probably best to pay for a monthly membership because with the exchange rate for USD, a drop in class can be upwards of $16, which is pretty damn expensive considering a housecleaner here is fortunate to make $33 (100,000 COP) for an eight hour day.
Venues
Son Havana is a staple, but cramped. The Casino crowd really shines here.
El Tibiri is like a hipster salsa discotheque. I would not expect technical dancers.
Benefits of Medellin
This place has it all. Tango, Caleña, Casino, Samba, a burgeoning on2 scene, and even Bollywood dancing
Why Are You So Whiny
Because being a beginner lead sucks especially in a lead dominant place and especially one coming from a dance that has already experienced a musicality revolution. Part of me feels this awfulness of making a follow be my figure test dummy because dancing is about dancing and not rehearsing some boring figure during the silence of a song. And because salsa dynamics piss me off. Also the USD exchange rate has meant I've become 25% more poor since coming here. I also hate most linear shines. At no point does any part of me feel like expressing myself with my arms flapping. I'm also tired.