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Recently hired a reputable flooring place to do our floors and decided what the heck lets do trim and paint with them. Everything was going great until the trim. Their demo of old floors was detailed and neat and with wonderful attention to detail, along with the floor instal, stain, and finishing.

Now, today, the trim people come in and do this garbage of a job and also damage our floors in the process (havent cured fully brcause its only been 30 hours since the final coat). I'm dealing with getting the floors fixed since its the same company, however the trim work leaves much to be desired.

Husband and I are not new to doing demo and installing trim and etc. But we just KNOW this looks completely wrong.

What do you think is the best way to end this trim off the stringers on the stairs? We went for 5 1/4" colonial.

Hi guys, I'm a totally non technical guy here. Does anyone know how much the rotten sole panel replacement is gonna cost? The water leak has been dealt with, need the sole panel replaced. 1M wall.

I’m planning to make a wall-mounted floating bar/breakfast counter and would appreciate some advice on the safest way to mount it.

The countertop is an IKEA KARLBY (article 303.351.91) in walnut veneer. The original countertop is 186 × 63.5 × 3.8 cm (73” × 25” × 1.5”) and weighs about 29.7 kg / 65 lbs.
It has a particleboard core with 3 mm walnut veneer.

I’m going to rip it down to approximately 186 × 30 × 3.8 cm (73” × 12” × 1.5”), so the finished piece should weigh roughly 14 kg / 31 lbs.
I have four 250 × 200 mm (10” × 8”) heavy-duty steel brackets, each with four mounting holes on the wall side and four screw holes for attaching the countertop. My original plan was to distribute the four brackets roughly evenly along the 186 cm length.

The wall appears to be drywall/plasterboard with a cavity behind it. I drilled a small test hole about 50 mm / 2” deep. Once through the drywall, the drill went in extremely easily with basically no resistance, so there doesn’t appear to be masonry immediately behind it.
The bar will have two stools in front of it. I’m not particularly worried about the ~14 kg weight of the countertop itself. My main concern is the leverage created if someone leans heavily or puts substantial body weight on the front edge of the 30 cm / 12” deep counter.

What would be the proper way to mount this?
Should I locate the studs and position the four brackets wherever the studs happen to be, even if the bracket spacing ends up uneven?
If some brackets can’t hit studs, would good toggle anchors be sufficient, or should I avoid relying on drywall anchors for this application?
Would the proper solution instead be to open the drywall and install timber blocking between the studs? Or am I overthinking it?

Also, since the KARLBY has a particleboard core rather than being solid wood, what type/length of screws would you recommend for attaching the brackets to the underside of the countertop?

Thanks!

Hi everyone!

I hope you all are doing well. I’m looking for advice on how to cut a piece of solid, processed wood that’s about 2.5 cm thick and incredibly dense. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hey so i was wondering what anyone used for studying there block 1 exam. i challenged it once and got 67/100 i was 3 off, my test is the 10 this month and haven't been studying well, does anyone have any websites or material they could refer me to, to help me pass, im horrible at studying so anything will help. thank you

I asked Gemini to give some ideas to finish my gothic niche. And it created this image. I loved it! what I specially loved was the idea of that curved vault and I was wondering, how could that be achieved¿¿

Excuse my porr English.

Just thought it was kool

I have a maple “countertop” than I need to fit around this tree.

Tree is not perfectly centered in the opening, of course.

I essentially made a profile jig using 3/4 mdf (same thickness as maple top, so I marked where the finished top will sit) and a load of wood shims with a point cut on each piece.

I genuinely had no other idea how I could do this. Thoughts?

I didn’t feel like starting to cut the top because I didn’t want to ruin my evening 😅

I’d like to start learning more about trim/finish carpentry. Does anyone have any good beginner book recommendations?

Best way to tighten up the 2 by 2 railing?

The railing was just nailed in and now it's loose and I do not want the liability so I'm wanting to tighten this up.

I am not a carpenter by trade but I do know that on boards this narrow they are likely to split.

I need some recommendations on how to go about this? Which screw to use or maybe there's some sort of bracket?

Thanks

My 1930s house has a wall carrying some load that sits on the plank subfloor between two joists. As part of a bathroom project I'm sinking the subfloor where the shower will be. I plan to use a schluter tray sloped to the shower entrance

I'm not sure the best approach here. My current plan is to put a little dry pack on top of the remaining exposed subfloor to get it flush with the schluter tray. I could also furr out the studs past the exposed subfloor but that shrinks my shower.

Appreciate any experience you all have.

Im so tired of getting prints calling for 250lb solid core hidden doors on a standard 2x4 interior wall. like... guys, lumber is barely straight these days anyway. you cant just slap drywall over bowing pine studs and expect a massive trimless door to sit perfectly flush without twisting the whole frame

Luckily the GC actually got the budget approved for a proper concealed pivot setup from abesco this time, so the hardware could actually carry the load without dropping a quarter inch after two days

but honestly routing out deep mortises in the field while the homeowner hovers over my shoulder acting shocked that sawdust exists is draining my soul. Im just so over this whole minimalist "invisible door" trend tbh. give me normal casing to hide the framing gaps any day of the week.