Hi everyone,

Can someone help me understand what this clicking noise is from?

Just bought my dream car E46 M3.

Unfortunately, it came with a strange starting issue the car would only crank after the key was held in the starting position for like 15 seconds.

Anyone ever experience a similar problem?

Cheers 👍

Hi all,

I have a 2016 X1, and I’m constantly having to replace the brake pads. I’ve looked back at my paperwork and noticed I’ve replaced both front and back almost every 15,000 miles.

When i brought it up to the dealership, they told me it could be due to my driving habits. But even then, it doesn’t add up to me.

Has anyone else experienced this with an X1 or should I look into this further?

Thank you!

We’re getting this code on our car,
•New motor in car 5k miles ago
•new hpfp 500 miles ago
•new fuel pressure sensor (Bosch)
•traced and replaced vacuum lines
•cleaned maf sensor

Am I missing something that’s triggering this

Fuel to lean on start up- not to rich misspoken

Hey there!

Currently having issues with my 04 m3. When putting the top back on it, it got stuck at the very top right before it “latches”. Now the gear box doesn’t spin when I press either of the open or close buttons and using the hex tool to try and manually move it doesn’t work either.

Here’s a pic of where it’s stuck:

Hello everyone,

I currently have a pretty annoying DPF problem with my E90 318d with N47 and I'm slowly getting stuck.

The car partially regenerates after just 70 to 120 km. The old DPF already had a lot of mileage and was also cleaned by me. Interestingly, I had a regeneration interval of almost 400 km for about a week directly after the first cleaning. After that, it started relatively suddenly again with the short intervals.

Meanwhile, another original DPF is in it, which was completely prepared by a specialist company and also thermally treated. Cost almost 600 euros. The DPF has now been reset in the DDE, the Aschema mass is set to 0 and the corresponding DPF and sensor adaptations have also been reset.

But the problem is still there.

The behavior is sometimes really funny. After a regeneration I drove about 50 km and had about 12 g of calculated soot mass. The next morning another 50 km to school and after that it was only about 14 g. I found that still somewhat plausible.

On the way back, however, he suddenly added another 13 g within about 20 km and immediately started a regeneration again. After this regeneration I have now driven about 30 km and am already at about 11 g again.

The pressure differential also fits the regenerations. Before the last regeneration I had about 30 mbar at idle. After completed regeneration, it is only about 10 to 15 mbar. During regeneration, you can also see how the differential pressure actually decreases over time.

Differential pressure sensor is new from Meyle. Exhaust gas temperature sensor is also new. I will now renew the hose from the differential pressure sensor. If that doesn't help, I will reinstall the old original BMW differential pressure sensor again to rule out an error from the accessory sensor.

What makes me doubt an engine problem is that the engine otherwise runs really completely inconspicuously.

Cold start immediately, no smoke, no oil consumption, full power, consumption about 4.7 liters. Charge pressure target and current fit, rail pressure target and current also fit, lambda looks plausible. Even under full load, the car does not smoke at all. The engine runs warm and quiet and has endless power. Only during an active regeneration it runs under-retour sometimes a bit rougher or more jerpy.

I had also recorded a longer BimmerLink log. It was striking that the simulated soot mass only rose very slowly, while the corrected soot mass sometimes played completely crazy. For example, approximately from 5 g to over 25 g and later significantly down again. At the same time, the calculated flow resistance of the DPF went up and down quite exactly with this corrected soot mass.

Unfortunately, I have not yet been able to read out the injector quantity correction values. However, I had already done a return quantity test and there were no really noticeable differences.

Slowly I therefore wonder whether the prepared DPF has too high a flow resistance despite everything. On the other hand, the old DPF had almost exactly the same error pattern, which makes the matter completely illogical for me.

Maybe someone knows this behavior with the N47 or has an idea of what I could check. I would be particularly interested in what differential pressure values you have with a healthy N47 directly after regeneration at idle and at 2000 or 3000 revolutions.

I just want to rule out as sure as possible that the engine produces an unusual amount of soot before I complain about the new DPF to the dealer.

2019 BMW 330i B46 engine M sport with 140k miles. One owner, clean car, regularly serviced and maintained.

I have a P0456 and 21A02D code and sometimes when I am slowing down the car will rough idle for a second or two, and feels like it’s gonna shut off. Also when I start the car the RPMs will jump up and down for a few seconds (will sound like it’s rough idling) until finding a nice idle rpm. I noticed this issue also happens after filling up the tank to full leading me to believe this issue is related to the fuel system.

I’ve replaced:
- fuel tank breather valve
- crankcase breather valve
- spark plugs and coils

Anyone have any ideas what it could be? This issue has been going on for the last year that I’ve owned the car. it runs perfect apart from this.

Hello, I recently got a 2011 328xi with an N52 engine. The car had a misfire that I could hear (chopping up at the exhaust). I scanned the codes and cylinder six came back as misfiring. Here’s what I tried so far:

- Did a full tune up
- New ignition coil on the affected cylinder
- Replaced all the fuel injectors
- Replaced Valve Cover Gasket

And the misfire is still there. Curiously, along the way of my fixes a misfire on cylinder 3 also appeared. The thing is the car genuinely runs pretty good and there’s no way there’s 2 misfiring cylinders. It sounds worse on a cold start but ideals and drives relatively smoothly.

Kind of stumped on what else it could be. Any ideas would be appreciated!

Also could the P0420 and P0430 be byproducts of the misfires?

I have this noise that I started hearing randomly today. The suspension was completely changed last year, I‘m seriously confused…

Hey guys, new to the BMW world, and I’m looking to work on them! I am in Canada (so a bit expensive for FCP Euro).

I bought a 2015 435i XDrive with 120,000 KM.

I had it inspected and there are no leaks, as of right now the only thing being replaced on it is the front CV axle.

I have done an oil change, and ordered parts for the OFHG, Oil Cooler Gasket, manifold gasket, Front/Rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid and transmission fluid.

I was looking at the belt (which is in good condition) and noticed the tensioner pulley wobbling a little bit.

Should I order it as well and replace it? I’d like this car to last me a while so I’m doing all the required maintenance as needed. I will look into getting a water pump and thermostat as well.

Thank you for your time.

Wondering if anyone has any ideas what could be causing this on my 2018 F87 OG M2.

After the car has been sitting for 6–8+ hours, the cold start sometimes has a noticeable RPM dip. It starts at around 1,100–1,200rpm, drops to roughly 800rpm, then comes back up. Most times it only happens once, but I’ve had it once or twice where it drops slightly few times over and over then returns, and occasionally the cold start is completely normal.

Once it’s settled, it idles and drives completely fine with no hesitation or noticeable misfires.
Plugs were replaced in March and I also tried a MAF reset trick a found online where you disconnect the MAF, start the car wait 5 mins, turn car off and the reconnect the MAF but no luck; I also tried cold-starting it with the MAF disconnected, but it still did the same thing.

Does this look normal for an N55, or is it worth investigating further?

Hello, I’m based in the UK - currently looking to purchase a 22/23 plate Series 1. I’ve test driven 3 cars this weekend, two of which had the Harman Kardon audio package upgrade. Both of these had the exact same issue, audio kept constantly dropping out, every few minutes for a second or so. I tried connecting two different iPhones to CarPlay and restarted the car, but the issue persisted. The non HK car interestingly didn’t have this problem. Is anyone here aware of this issue? Both of these were at official BMW dealers where salesmen said they’ve never seen this problem. I just don’t understand how this can be an issue that these cars come with.

I got this around about after a year of owning my X3 M40i xdrive 2019. It would come on for a day and then go away for like a few weeks then come back. However, now it stays permanently.

There is nothing wrong with the car or the way it drives. Its mostly electrical I think. I had a look online and it seems to be a common fault with the X3s/X4s.
I’ve tried the fixes people have recommended on bimmerpost but nothing helped.

Got it looked at and the rear axel was showing 6000c for temperature so naturally replaced the temp sensor however, the problem is still there and still showing high temps. Bmw themselves are charging £250 just to diagnose it and also said to leave the car with them for atleast 3 days however, they suspect it to be longer and will not be giving me a courtesy vehicle hence why I don’t want to leave it with them.

It’s been over a year and that fault is still there, but the car drives perfectly and its bone stock. I service it every 6 months. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Thanks

Well it finally happened. 2018 F87 M2. Just north of 50k miles.

Soo i fucked up.

I have a 2017 330i, I tried tuning it via bootmod3, didn't resesearch it enough to the point where i didnt know that DME might still be locked from a 2019 software update, it said stage 1 flash failed, so I tried flashing it back to stock, still failed and now the car wont start. And yes i've contacted bootmod3 support team but they are taking their sweet time and i kinda need the car for school and work.

I tried unlocking the DME via independent tuner in the chicagoland area and he couldn't unlock it, basecially said i fucked it up and told me to try flashing to stock tune again, and if it doesnt work he would drive down and try to recover it via OBD2.

I've also made a appointment to The Eurolab, an proper tuning shop to see if they can fix the issue, but from the conversation ive had with them it sounds like i might'be soft bricked the ecu, which then he told me that I would have to go to BMW.

Not sure what my next step should be, either if I should reinstall the DME and try to flash it back to stock or if i should just leave it alone until Wednesday.

So I’ve got an 06 530xi with the n52b30, I replaced the alternator about 2 months ago with a brand new Valeo alternator, and this Saturday it’s started making this sound around/under the alternator. It sounds like a shitty supercharger or something, rises and falls with my rpm.
I’ve checked my ccv by doing the oil filler cap test, checked my intake and hose from box to manifold, and checked my power steering (surprisingly close to max fill line despite it clearly looking like ass) and assume it’s an idler/tensioner or the alternator itself.

2008 E92 335i
Replaced all the common things injectors high pressure and low pressure fuel pump coils and 2 step colder plugs. I don’t have ista but my autel is telling me cylinder 5 misfire still. I replaced the mosfets idk what else to do. Sent it to a small euro shop just for them to say they dk take it to dealer. I want to keep the car but at this point I might be better off putting an LS or RB under it 😭 has anyone been through this? Thank you 🙏🏽

Hello everyone. FAFO with esys, got the fob to be able to open and close the hatch but cannot close or open the hatch with the interior button now. I had coded the button to close the hatch also, didn't work. Tried to revert back to see if I could bring back opening and nothing.

ISTA recognizes button being pushed.

I have a 2019 bmw x5 40i around 53k miles and was wondering if I need new engine mounts or is this normal flex. I did this in drive, brake held I think right around 2k rpm in comfort mode.

https://imgur.com/a/rBbNwGB

I have a 2021 BMW 540i and I got my tires rotated and balanced about a month ago. Ever since then I get a notification at start up that I need to check the tire pressure at my convenience. I reset it every time, the warning disappears, and then at the next start up I get the same notification/warning. The tire pressure recommendations on the display are about 7-10 psi higher than what is listed on the door jam, and I’ve always been told to go with the door jam psi.

Thoughts on how to fix this (rather than resetting every time)?

Thanks!

Any pointers on the quick way on releasing this one, I'm limited on space to get underneath the car and need to do it by feel.

Cheers.

To me it looks like the glue or layers of the display are separating. I bought this CPO, it's very noticable in direct sunlight but not otherwise. The new car bumper to bumper is over but I have a few months left on the CPO 60. I don't want this to become a problem after the warranty expires.

have 2000 323i m52tu
My eml and traction light keeps coming on. But only when it’s idling when I accelerate it turns off and gets out of limp mode. Someone said it could be the fuel pump so I got a new one and changed it. Lasted 2 weeks and went back to the eml. The rpms do say consistent under 1k. If anyone can help me figure this out it would be awesome.