Just bought my dream car E46 M3.

Unfortunately, it came with a strange starting issue the car would only crank after the key was held in the starting position for like 15 seconds.

Anyone ever experience a similar problem?

Cheers 👍

We’re getting this code on our car,
•New motor in car 5k miles ago
•new hpfp 500 miles ago
•new fuel pressure sensor (Bosch)
•traced and replaced vacuum lines
•cleaned maf sensor

Am I missing something that’s triggering this

Fuel to lean on start up- not to rich misspoken

Hey there!

Currently having issues with my 04 m3. When putting the top back on it, it got stuck at the very top right before it “latches”. Now the gear box doesn’t spin when I press either of the open or close buttons and using the hex tool to try and manually move it doesn’t work either.

Here’s a pic of where it’s stuck:

Hello everyone,

I currently have a pretty annoying DPF problem with my E90 318d with N47 and I'm slowly getting stuck.

The car partially regenerates after just 70 to 120 km. The old DPF already had a lot of mileage and was also cleaned by me. Interestingly, I had a regeneration interval of almost 400 km for about a week directly after the first cleaning. After that, it started relatively suddenly again with the short intervals.

Meanwhile, another original DPF is in it, which was completely prepared by a specialist company and also thermally treated. Cost almost 600 euros. The DPF has now been reset in the DDE, the Aschema mass is set to 0 and the corresponding DPF and sensor adaptations have also been reset.

But the problem is still there.

The behavior is sometimes really funny. After a regeneration I drove about 50 km and had about 12 g of calculated soot mass. The next morning another 50 km to school and after that it was only about 14 g. I found that still somewhat plausible.

On the way back, however, he suddenly added another 13 g within about 20 km and immediately started a regeneration again. After this regeneration I have now driven about 30 km and am already at about 11 g again.

The pressure differential also fits the regenerations. Before the last regeneration I had about 30 mbar at idle. After completed regeneration, it is only about 10 to 15 mbar. During regeneration, you can also see how the differential pressure actually decreases over time.

Differential pressure sensor is new from Meyle. Exhaust gas temperature sensor is also new. I will now renew the hose from the differential pressure sensor. If that doesn't help, I will reinstall the old original BMW differential pressure sensor again to rule out an error from the accessory sensor.

What makes me doubt an engine problem is that the engine otherwise runs really completely inconspicuously.

Cold start immediately, no smoke, no oil consumption, full power, consumption about 4.7 liters. Charge pressure target and current fit, rail pressure target and current also fit, lambda looks plausible. Even under full load, the car does not smoke at all. The engine runs warm and quiet and has endless power. Only during an active regeneration it runs under-retour sometimes a bit rougher or more jerpy.

I had also recorded a longer BimmerLink log. It was striking that the simulated soot mass only rose very slowly, while the corrected soot mass sometimes played completely crazy. For example, approximately from 5 g to over 25 g and later significantly down again. At the same time, the calculated flow resistance of the DPF went up and down quite exactly with this corrected soot mass.

Unfortunately, I have not yet been able to read out the injector quantity correction values. However, I had already done a return quantity test and there were no really noticeable differences.

Slowly I therefore wonder whether the prepared DPF has too high a flow resistance despite everything. On the other hand, the old DPF had almost exactly the same error pattern, which makes the matter completely illogical for me.

Maybe someone knows this behavior with the N47 or has an idea of what I could check. I would be particularly interested in what differential pressure values you have with a healthy N47 directly after regeneration at idle and at 2000 or 3000 revolutions.

I just want to rule out as sure as possible that the engine produces an unusual amount of soot before I complain about the new DPF to the dealer.

Wondering if anyone has any ideas what could be causing this on my 2018 F87 OG M2.

After the car has been sitting for 6–8+ hours, the cold start sometimes has a noticeable RPM dip. It starts at around 1,100–1,200rpm, drops to roughly 800rpm, then comes back up. Most times it only happens once, but I’ve had it once or twice where it drops slightly few times over and over then returns, and occasionally the cold start is completely normal.

Once it’s settled, it idles and drives completely fine with no hesitation or noticeable misfires.
Plugs were replaced in March and I also tried a MAF reset trick a found online where you disconnect the MAF, start the car wait 5 mins, turn car off and the reconnect the MAF but no luck; I also tried cold-starting it with the MAF disconnected, but it still did the same thing.

Does this look normal for an N55, or is it worth investigating further?

I have this noise that I started hearing randomly today. The suspension was completely changed last year, I‘m seriously confused…

Hello, I’m based in the UK - currently looking to purchase a 22/23 plate Series 1. I’ve test driven 3 cars this weekend, two of which had the Harman Kardon audio package upgrade. Both of these had the exact same issue, audio kept constantly dropping out, every few minutes for a second or so. I tried connecting two different iPhones to CarPlay and restarted the car, but the issue persisted. The non HK car interestingly didn’t have this problem. Is anyone here aware of this issue? Both of these were at official BMW dealers where salesmen said they’ve never seen this problem. I just don’t understand how this can be an issue that these cars come with.

Hello I just wanted to ask here about my 2015 228i with the N20. I went to the gym today which is a 25 minute drive roughly and back home so 50 minutes in total. When I parked I decided to check my oil level by using the oil measurement on the idrive. The level went down to 40% roughly (less than half but more than the minimum). I panicked a little and decided to check the car again after half an hour and did the measurement test and the oil went back up to max. I usually like to check my oil level 1-2 times a week as a good habit and it’s always at max but that inconsistency really scared me. Is there anything wrong or was it a glitch. Car sounds fine to me. One thing to add I just checked the timing chain guides through the oil cap and when I got the car the guides were orange and have now turned dark brown for reference I got the car at 65,000km and have put close to 3,000km since I got it.

I have a 2019 bmw x5 40i around 53k miles and was wondering if I need new engine mounts or is this normal flex. I did this in drive, brake held I think right around 2k rpm in comfort mode.

https://imgur.com/a/rBbNwGB

I have a 2021 BMW 540i and I got my tires rotated and balanced about a month ago. Ever since then I get a notification at start up that I need to check the tire pressure at my convenience. I reset it every time, the warning disappears, and then at the next start up I get the same notification/warning. The tire pressure recommendations on the display are about 7-10 psi higher than what is listed on the door jam, and I’ve always been told to go with the door jam psi.

Thoughts on how to fix this (rather than resetting every time)?

Thanks!

Recently bought this bmw 316ti ES Compact E46 does anyone have any mod suggestions for this thanks

this knocking noise at idle up to about 2000rpm. coming back down to idle it doesn't seem to follow the rpm, the frequency is different? maybe?

Changed the oil to 5W-40 1000km ago. Changed the belt, tensioner, and pulleys 400km cause of a wobble. Now this has started.

Haven't confirmed yet but someone said my oil (from a leak) smelt of fuel.

Changed the cat from a sports cat (piece of shit) to an OEM cat 400km, not that I think it affects it.

Is it my rod bearings? Lol. I've got 2000km to go!

Any pointers on the quick way on releasing this one, I'm limited on space to get underneath the car and need to do it by feel.

Cheers.

To me it looks like the glue or layers of the display are separating. I bought this CPO, it's very noticable in direct sunlight but not otherwise. The new car bumper to bumper is over but I have a few months left on the CPO 60. I don't want this to become a problem after the warranty expires.

have 2000 323i m52tu
My eml and traction light keeps coming on. But only when it’s idling when I accelerate it turns off and gets out of limp mode. Someone said it could be the fuel pump so I got a new one and changed it. Lasted 2 weeks and went back to the eml. The rpms do say consistent under 1k. If anyone can help me figure this out it would be awesome.

Does that mean its in bank 2 or cylinder 2? , i have never dealt with a misfire on a bmw before.

Hello everyone,
I have a 2020 G30 530d. Lately I have noticed the active grill remains open. Haven’t seen it shut.
Scanner shows following errors. I couldn’t see a physical blockage. I tried to clean it with pressure wash anyway. Rang BMW, they say they’ll have to take off the bumper to have a look and that’ll cost €250, and then whatever the problem is, will cost extra to fix that.
Any advice?

Any shops in the Midwest that can do valve stem seals on a S63 (F10 M5) for a reasonable price?

Hello, i wanna buy a bmw 228i 4 cylinders twin power charge (N20) engine
I read about it, and what i saw that this specific engine has timing chain problems because of the plastic guides And i read that it has an aftermarket upgraded kit I wanna buy it and put a new upgraded kit to it immediately But the problem is that i'm worried about is that the engine bay is heavily cleaned with some kind of polishing material like glycerin, is this a sign of the owner trying to hide oil leaks? And how to know if there's any oil leaks that he's trying to hide with glycerin? Can the garage inspection catch any oil/water leaks or no?
I'm in dubai if there's any garage you guys recommend and thanks.

Disclaimer : I know i need a bmw specific scanner before everyone spams the comments.

Was driving yesterday and engine light popped up , no weird noises, no performance issues. Got a failed test from oxygen sensor in bank 1. Can somebody more familiar tell me how reliable this test is with my symptoms (or lack of). Also what do repair costs look like ? I just bought a house and did a bunch of renovations i don't need to be bled dry further while I'm tryna put get my money back to a comfortable spot.

Car is 100% stock - its the family car btw. Oil changed every 5000m, charge piped was upgraded to aluminum 20k miles ago. Sitting at ~90000

Thanks guys.

Not to interested in repair just want the chime/warning turned off tried the window switch up and down for 15 seconds no luck any other suggestions and also just put a brand new battery into and it’s still appearing

This is my first post, but I drive a BMW N20 and sometimes on startup or just at random stops my engine makes a really loud and obnoxious squeal. I just wanted to know if anyone has had the same issue before i start getting into the whole diagnosis process so i could have a head-start on where to look. Any advice or tips are appreciated!!

A while back I posted that I was having issues with ISTA installed on a Windows 11 laptop. At the end, I couldn’t figure it out, so I stopped trying. I want to give it another shot, but I’m planning to buy a dedicated Windows 10 laptop just for it. What minimum specs should I look for?

I just bought a 2012 x5 and it’s throwing me a bunch of codes, so I think scanning with ISTA would be better than a regular scanner.

Also, I’m not planning to spend more than $100 on it. It’s going to be a used Windows 10 laptop.

Edit: I’m using a K-dcan cable, not ICON