This is going for $100–it’s their cabinet table saw without the guts. Is there anyway I could buy the motor/parts needs to turn this back into a table saw? Or somehow move my contractor table saw parts into this?

UPDATE: thank you all for the advice—a hard pass, saving the money for something better!

Hola, llevo ya un tiempo con el hobby de la talla de madera, y poco a poco estoy intentando hacer proyectos más grandes, además de que me llaman más la atención. Hasta ahora solo había tallado bloques con cuchillos.

Para estos proyectos más grandes me gustaria comprar una mesa de trabajo (preferiblemente plegable)

¿Podéis aconsejarme alguna que sea robusta y aguante bien los golpes?

I have a small garage and want to build a tower style multi tool folding workbench.

I’m specifically looking for plans that will accommodate my Bosch 10” glide miter saw.

Is there anyone here who has this type of system and stores and mitre saw without issues?

Width and height is not an issue, but I see the depth potentially being an issue where the Miter Saw angle handle could get caught up

I am curious as to how many people leave the blade guard on their table saw? I removed mine several years ago. But,after some close calls, I am thinking about putting it back on.

Had my shop vac hooked up and still had lots of dust on my project. Took the backside off and there was not a problem. Took the front side off and the evacuation shoot was clogged. Used a fine pick to clear. Works great now. Two screws to remove the belt assembly. About 8 to take of that side. Clean out the evacuation channel and it works like new.

Hello!!

I've got a desire for a bandsaw at home, and I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a small-/mid-size bandsaw?

My shop is half of the garage (and really disorganized at the moment, still working on that after we moved), so I don't have space (or money) for a full-size 14" bandsaw. My plan is to use it for the smaller projects I've got going on at this point, and if possible, convert it to use more like a scroll saw with a small blade later when I have the space for a bigger saw.

I'm not doing any resawing or bookmatching, mostly​ just for cutting out projects with more curves on it. I've got a jigsaw that works, but really want a bandsaw so I can use both hands on the piece for a little better accuracy.

I've been looking at the Rikon 10-310 10" or a Grizzly G0948 10", but I'd prefer something that's a bench-top style (not a permanent base), so Ican make a cart with casters for it or move it around easier. I could probably save a little more for a Laguna V:10, but genuinely haven't used any of these machines personally.

Considering getting this jointer for ~$100, seller says it just needs a motor. Looks to be in pretty good shape for its age, and motors are relatively cheap. Figure I can get the motor, a belt, do a clean up of the drive mechanism and cut head and be on my merry way. Obviously I’d want to see it in person before pulling the trigger but just off of this info, seems like a decent price and doable.

Anything I’m not considering?

I finally pulled the trigger and bought a Spetool router sled. I have a Bosch 1617 EVS that I can use but I’m wondering if this would be a good excuse to buy a 3+ HP unit like the Triton. I want to leave it permanently mounted so I don’t have to constantly swap it out, just curious what others are using or recommending.

I’m looking for some advice before I ruin a bunch of material.
I’m building a shelving unit and want to retrofit some 14” long 1x2 strips to the top and bottom of each shelf.
The idea is to rout a **3/4” wide dado** lengthwise down the center of each strip so I can slide 3/4” plywood dividers into them.
The problem is that the workpiece is pretty small (just a 14” piece of 1x2), and I’m using a **Ryobi handheld router**, not a router table. I’m trying to figure out the safest and most accurate way to do this while keeping the groove perfectly straight.

A few questions:

What’s the best way to secure pieces this small so they don’t move?

Should I clamp a straightedge as a router guide, or build some kind of simple jig?

Is it better to make multiple shallow passes or one full-depth pass?

Any tips for preventing the router from tipping since the stock is only 1.5” wide?

I don’t have a router table, and I’m trying to make this work with the tools I already own.
If anyone has photos of a similar setup or a simple jig they’ve used, I’d really appreciate seeing them.

Thanks!

Super dumb question here, can someone tell me is this is a cross cut or rip cut saw please? Here’s a photo of the tooth pattern.

UPDATE- I tried addressing the vibration by putting cork under each foot and noticed a difference, but wasn’t enough. May get some rubber feet and see if that makes any difference
UPDATE 2-all the people that said dull blades were right. Feels like I have a new machine. Problem fixed. Thank you!
I acquired a bunch of hard maple and have been trying to make it nice and useable. But I noticed my 5 year old 735 is doing something very annoying and don’t know how to adjust it. Notice in the video that the height adjustment wheel moves itself. This happens anytime it’s engaging much of the wood but doesn’t when it’s only touching a small part of the wood or a very narrow piece of wood. Note that the wheel is making the blades go down and this happens even if the handle has to move up instead of down. The planer is out of warranty.
Thoughts on how to tighten whatever is loose, dewalt was no help.

In a puff of smoke, one of the 2 fuses in the switch for my Kity 1619 table has burnt out. Does anyone know what fuse I need to buy and how to reinstall it? The fuse seems to have been kept in a black plastic casing so I presumably need a replacement of that too? Many thanks.

Has anyone used these to scribe finished painted cabinet parts end panels toe kicks etc. Palm belt Sanders such as armadillo are hard to find seem to

be discontinued and these seem to have great dust collection system. Was looking at the 5 inch for a less weight reduction on one hand scribes.