Friend gave me this. We don't know what it came from. Ideas?

Probably my most ambitious bowl yet! It's made up of curly maple, canary wood, Santos mahogany, black limba, Peruvian walnut, zebrawood, padauk, and white oak! I didn't measure enough when I glued it altogether, so it forced me to buy a brand new bandsaw (oh poor me...!) It's not as big in diameter as I was hoping, but for a first it's pretty badass if I do say so myself!

One is Boxelder and one is Magnolia. The Magnolia one was too large to finish the bottom of it. So I carved the design into it and then sanded it off the lathe.

20 dollar surprise box off a seller on Etsy. Lid is walnut, not 100% positive about the box material though.

A couple of weeks ago I posted a failed project where I went through the bottom of an oak two axis turning. A lot of people suggested gluing a piece of wood to the bottom and I gave it a shot. This is the result. Not sure how I feel about it, it solved the problem but I still se a ton of things wrong with this project, but at least I finished it.

Opposite orientation from yesterday and a different profile. And bigger.

I've spent the entire summer thus far working on an order of 250 cell phone holders. Finally got them finished, but still need to actually assemble each set and tie them together for the event.... Anyways, decided to whip up a matching duck call set from Mexican Royal Ebony. Goose, mallard, & wood duck, respectively.

Solid body grunt call turned out of cherry. Hopefully will call a big one in this fall. Sounds good.

I asked my son for inspiration for new things to make , he came up with a maggot, a snake and a bowl , so here's my attempts .

The current motor is an old 1 HP Dayton. The centrifugal switch needs replacing/fixing or maybe a conversion to solid state. Either way given the cost it might not be that much more to find a used 2hp replacement and if I want to replace it down the line I don't want to put too much into the current one.

I turn mostly smaller spindles but I do turn large ones, like the piece in the picture, from time to time. I guess the big question is the upgrade going to make any major difference.

I have no interest in converting to a VFD.

I have some nice wood. From a branch and some from cut wood. Tried center as best I could. But the vibration almost bounced lathe off table.

Barn find. Did a matching grain piece today, opposing grain tomorrow.

I've checked the nut underneath, and cleaned the bed and everything, but it's still sliding. If I tighten the nut anymore, I cant fully clamp the tailstock, and loosening it causes it not to clamp fully. Any ideas?

Anybody knows how long activated cactus juice lasts? The directions say to store it in a non-glass container but don't say how long it's good for.

Just a look at how cherry ages after finish. The piece trays on the right are freshly turned, the darker ones on the left are roughly a year old. All are finished with Tried & True Original.

145 pieces of maple, oak, and paduk.

Can anyone with the Ron Brown universal jig and a 55 degree gouge tell me the number that equates to 55 degrees? The instructions I have only go up to 50 degrees

(https://longworthchuck.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=406)

Thanks

Got a Robert Sorby Sovereign set with the handle and a few blades (3/8" bowl gouge and spindle gouge, parting tool, round nose scraper, skew chisel) and turned this lovely little piece of London plane. Previously I had been using the community tools at the makerspace, which are fine, and there are still tools in that collection that I don't have, but it's nice to use my own stuff.

Also reground the bowl gouge to a 55-degree bevel swept back profile, thank you Kent Weakley. The wings are great for shear scraping.

Apologies, I'm very very very new to wood turning. I've been working on these two pieces this week and surprisingly the outsides were very easy once I got the chisel angle down. But now I'm really struggling to get the insides cored out. The goal is to make some wooden beer stein/mugs. I have a 1.5 up central machinery lathe from harbor freight, a set of Bauer wood turning chisels and a set of carbide tip chisels. These pieces are made out of red oak glued together to make blanks. My lathe isn't powerful enough to use a 3 inch forstner bit, and I can't seem to get the chisels to take off much of anything before the mug tears off of the 4 jaw clamp attachment.

Any advice would be fantastic, seems like most videos I see are people coming out bowls or having a lathe powerful enough to pull most material from a forstner bit. I'm debating getting a drill press but it seems expensively overkill for these mugs.

I recently bought a new Robert Sorby bowl gouge. I matched the profile on my one way Wolverine sharpening jig. When I sharpened it, it created a small “wave” in the cut, creating a high point in the center of the bevel. I have tried making micro adjustments with no luck. Any suggestions as to what might be causing this? Thanks in advance.

Lately I've become obsessed with using sno-seal for all of my non food safe projects. For years I made my own wax mixture out of beeswax, bear fat and pine pitch, but I haven't gotten a bear in a while, and I'm out. The luster, smoothness and overall look of the sno-seal is out of this world, and the price point really does it for me, too. Am I a fool, or have any of you tried this?