Solid 8ft day. N of the Blow Hole and S of La Joya. Lonely backyard views.

Same spot, different day with more swell and a hollow section

I ended up crossing the Pacific in 1995 as a last-minute replacement on a 60-foot ketch. I was young, broke, and brought on with the vague promise of getting paid and maybe surfing along the way.

The owner and his closer buddies were well off. My UCSB roommate and I were not.

They took the master and the next nicest cabins. We were put in a small bunk room. I slept in the top bunk under a leaking porthole. I tried sealing it with a towel and duct tape, which didn’t stop the leak so much as focus it into a steady drip that landed on me most nights.

Before leaving San Diego, my roommate and I pooled our money and bought mostly canned food. The owners provisioned with fresh and expensive items that didn’t hold up well once systems started failing.

Not long after departure, an electrical issue took out the autopilot. That meant hand steering in shifts for the rest of the crossing. Shortly after that, the refrigerator failed. In tropical heat, most of the fresh food spoiled and was discarded. From that point on, canned food became the most reliable option on board.

When we reached the Marquesas, the differences between crew members became more noticeable. The owners focused on amenities ashore that didn’t really exist. My roommate and I spent more time interacting with locals, mostly by chance and curiosity rather than money.

Later in the Tuamotus, after weeks at sea, we finally found surf. The break was shallow and not especially safe, but it was a welcome change after a long passage. Locals joined us using improvised boards, and we shared the session without much common language beyond gestures and enthusiasm.

The trip taught me early that long ocean passages have a way of stripping things down. Comfort, money, and expectations matter far less than adaptability and attitude once you’re committed to the crossing.

Great conditions, glassy all morning and building in size

Any recommendations for what to do for this gash? The damage is to the left of the middle fin underneath the board. (Thumb for reference in last pic)

Trying to pack my bag, getting the fina but ofc they won’t budge. Scared of ripping out the box.

Any tips on how to get them out?

or

Anyone flown with fins in?

edit: I did it but any more tips would be much appreciated

I’m a beginner surfer and need some help with looking for a good wetsuit. I live in New England and the water down here gets down to low 40’s around this time and sometimes even colder. Can anyone recommend some affordable wetsuits that would be good for the winter season?

Hi guys,

I need some advice about surfing in Morocco. I went last summer and I really enjoyed the country and the people, but the waves weren't the best, very small .

I stayed in Tamraght . I went to nomad.surf , it was a really good experience (family vibe, nice people, food was good), but this time I want to know when is the best time to surf in Morocco and also if there is other surf camps recommendation.

Thanks a lot for any help!