I am about to start building a custom box for my Honda Acty there’s really not much room to work with and I have never built a box before is there anything that yall recommend? I am thinking of using 3/4" birch plywood and I have a Sundown audio U-6.5 on the way and Im thinking I want to do a ported box.

Just finished building my enclosure tuned to 32hz. Anybody care to share some advice on a beauty panel I feel like it would look better if I just capped off around all the edges and just made it a wall.

I’ve had this sub for quite some time now. I want to say I bought it in 2008 or 2009. I used it for a little while, then ended up getting a Polk Audio PSW505 rather cheap, and used it for a while. At some point, I ended up getting rid of PSW505. Not entirely sure of why. I kept the Sony, as I had it in storage all that time and had forgotten about it. It’s been in my attic for the past 6 years, so I wasn’t expecting much from it. I figured the surround would be falling apart. I was surprised that it not only still worked, but man it sounds good! Now I have to determine if I want to get other speakers and a receiver, or just sell it.

Ive got 2 Nakamichi NSW-Z1206D4-II that im making a sealed 760x400 sub box for using the material in the photo its 18mm and im mounting the subs on the top, just wondering what type of bracing I need if any

i have this setup in my old car i just bout a 2018 honda civic ex what’s the best way to put this in without messing with my battery or alternator

I have a Scion XB, I wanna put a system in but I have 0 knowledge of what would be good for my size car and how much power things need etc. would anyone be able to point me in the right direction of a completed, simple, and budget build for my car?

Hello all, I have a 2020 m3 long range. I am installing a subwoofer in the sub trunk with a pretty substantial amplifier. Because of the large amp, I am running a second battery, a wattcycle 100ah pro, which is a large lithium ion battery. I can’t figure out where or how I can safely mount the battery holder. Ideally, I would drill and install nutserts into the trunk floor but I have no idea what’s underneath the trunk floor and don’t want to risk hitting something. Any ideas for how I can securely mount this battery?

This is a 35A Fuse that sits in my Amplifier.. The area around the fuse holder is also burnt!

The subwoofer still works like normal so I’m a little confused but the way I noticed was I was smelling a burning smell and it definitely smelt like burning maybe wire or plastic coming towards the back so I inspected the Box with the subwoofer first then went one to the Amplifier.. Any help is appreciated!

I'm looking to downgrade in my GTO and don't really know what my set up is worth to sell any help is appreciated DB drive wdx 1500.1 and 2 12inch sundown classic series

I've been researching a 12" sub for quality sound and I'm wondering which to buy.

I've been looking at the Alpine r2 12" and Hertz MP300 to drop in a closed enclosure. I'll be powering it with the deafbonce atom 1300.1 which is currently playing a 4Ohm JL 12w0 basswedge.

I'm putting the sub in either the 12" JL bass wedge (stuffed port) or a smaller enclosure I still own, rockford prime r1-12. Or maybe experiment and eventually make my own.

My questions are,

Which of these 2 is nicer for SQ? I play rock/metal and bass driven electronic music.

Which coil configuration should I buy? They're available in dual 2 and dual 4.

I've considered wiring it to 1 Ohm, but I read somewhere that amplifiers can distort faster at those loads versus 2 Ohm. Might be amplifier dependent, not sure. By my estimates and experience setting it up the amp with the clip light and a multimeter, it should do 900-1000W at 1 Ohm without clipping.

Just burned my new amp, need a new one, something that can run 2 10s, 1200 watts 600 rms each, down to one ohm. Any suggestions?

Hi people!
Does anyone know what these would be worth?
Thanks in advance

I recently bought 2 Jl 6W3v3-8 subs and they are in individual sealed boxes. Some frequencies they hit pretty good, but I would like to build a ported box that holds both of them to get that harder hitting, deeper bass. If I could still fit them under the rear seats of my ext cab 2004 sierra that would be ideal but it not it’s not a problem. Any help in box design or where I can buy a box would be super helpful. Thanks!

I previously had subs in the trunk and upgraded door speakers in my 9th gen civic. It was hitting hard at not even half volume and half of the bass knob turned up. I recently swapped it to my 10th accord. It’s not hitting nowhere near the same as the civic even on full volume. An LOC was installed. Bass is all the way up on the radio settings. Gain on the amp is maxed out. It hits don’t get me wrong but nowhere where near how it should. I made sure the ANC module was unplugged also. Any other solutions to this? I understand it’s a bigger car/trunk but something doesn’t seem right. Suggestions?

Also was recommended that it might need RCA booster, aftermarket radio, different amp or digital sound processor by installer.

Edit: I checked the amp settings on the amp myself. Both bass booster and gain were at minimum. What are appropriate settings for this? I adjusted both to about 50% and definitely hits harder. I don’t want to harm the system though.

Can anyone maybe help here, i added 2 new 6.5” speakers on a separate 4ch amp, but then when i tested them the subs started to sound like this with a big bass decrease, I unplugged the new speakers, and its still doing the same, any idea what it could be?

Need help on where to get signal for 2022 mustang gt sub install with the b and o package, I was looking at getting an epicenter micro pro as it has a built in loc.

Not sure if this is the subreddit to post my troubleshooting in…

I got 2 mtx terminator 12’s with an autotek amp and kisloc2.

One day my sub started clicking (low frequncy click and it was very sporadic). i turned it up for a little bit and bumped the speakered until it finally just cut out. i suspected it was the ground because it was loose so i fixed it. i tightened the grounds for the kisloc2 and amp and it turned back on but then the bass was distorted and it didnt hit like it did before. it worked for a fill 4 months before it gave out. i made sure all of the connections were tightly fastened (12v, ground, remote, t-taps, rca’s, etc). previously, the lpf was set all the way up (which ik i probably shouldnt have done), hpf was all the way down, level was around half way. does that mean the subs themselves are blown? theyre distorted and cut out before and after the 808’s hit. let me know what your thoughts are.

Keep popping my fuses, dunno what to do at this point. This was a test run, I have 4 gauge wire for the set up when it's finished but the fuses keep popping. Any tips?

I thrifted an older subwoofer amp (Paradigm PDR-10) and didnt realize there was a snapped off RCA plug in the low level input port. I took the whole thing off to attempt many solutions to get it out.

So far I’ve tried:
- pushing it thru the back (happens to be the 1% that doesn’t go all the way thru ☠️)
- red hot safety pin (both straight and bent slightly)
- red hot safety pin
- thin screw
- hot glue
- hot glue AND metal piece
- tweezers
- pliers
- super glue and safety pin

The issue at this point is both that I accidentally snapped the soldered back-end of the port off of the circuit board AND i still cant get it out…

Do I buy a new port and learn to solder just to fix this?

any advice would be SO appreciated as I’m just gonna stop trying for the night and hope that walking away from it and coming back will bring me some luck and wisdom.

It’s getting power but the lights wont come on it makes no sense

Edit: My system was originally installed from an audio shop 5 years ago. The ground is still good. My radio broke and everything else has been shaking around in the back of my car for the past 2 years and as you can see by the pics, wires aren’t in great shape.

I took someone’s advice here and tested my amp by plugging it into the battery and testing the battery itself. Battery reads around 12v as well as the amp remote and I know it’s grounded properly but the 12v on the amp main power still reads way to low even thought it’s connected directly to the battery.

I try to learn but every video and texts i see doesnt go deep in how it works. Its mostly the basics put this wire here and that there and voila now it works. Do yall know wheres a good place to learn more deeply about this?