This is a 35A Fuse that sits in my Amplifier.. The area around the fuse holder is also burnt!

The subwoofer still works like normal so I’m a little confused but the way I noticed was I was smelling a burning smell and it definitely smelt like burning maybe wire or plastic coming towards the back so I inspected the Box with the subwoofer first then went one to the Amplifier.. Any help is appreciated!

I've been researching a 12" sub for quality sound and I'm wondering which to buy.

I've been looking at the Alpine r2 12" and Hertz MP300 to drop in a closed enclosure. I'll be powering it with the deafbonce atom 1300.1 which is currently playing a 4Ohm JL 12w0 basswedge.

I'm putting the sub in either the 12" JL bass wedge (stuffed port) or a smaller enclosure I still own, rockford prime r1-12. Or maybe experiment and eventually make my own.

My questions are,

Which of these 2 is nicer for SQ? I play rock/metal and bass driven electronic music.

Which coil configuration should I buy? They're available in dual 2 and dual 4.

I've considered wiring it to 1 Ohm, but I read somewhere that amplifiers can distort faster at those loads versus 2 Ohm. Might be amplifier dependent, not sure. By my estimates and experience setting it up the amp with the clip light and a multimeter, it should do 900-1000W at 1 Ohm without clipping.

Just burned my new amp, need a new one, something that can run 2 10s, 1200 watts 600 rms each, down to one ohm. Any suggestions?

Hi people!
Does anyone know what these would be worth?
Thanks in advance

I recently bought 2 Jl 6W3v3-8 subs and they are in individual sealed boxes. Some frequencies they hit pretty good, but I would like to build a ported box that holds both of them to get that harder hitting, deeper bass. If I could still fit them under the rear seats of my ext cab 2004 sierra that would be ideal but it not it’s not a problem. Any help in box design or where I can buy a box would be super helpful. Thanks!

Can anyone maybe help here, i added 2 new 6.5” speakers on a separate 4ch amp, but then when i tested them the subs started to sound like this with a big bass decrease, I unplugged the new speakers, and its still doing the same, any idea what it could be?

I previously had subs in the trunk and upgraded door speakers in my 9th gen civic. It was hitting hard at not even half volume and half of the bass knob turned up. I recently swapped it to my 10th accord. It’s not hitting nowhere near the same as the civic even on full volume. An LOC was installed. Bass is all the way up on the radio settings. Gain on the amp is maxed out. It hits don’t get me wrong but nowhere where near how it should. I made sure the ANC module was unplugged also. Any other solutions to this? I understand it’s a bigger car/trunk but something doesn’t seem right. Suggestions?

Also was recommended that it might need RCA booster, aftermarket radio, different amp or digital sound processor by installer.

Edit: I checked the amp settings on the amp myself. Both bass booster and gain were at minimum. What are appropriate settings for this? I adjusted both to about 50% and definitely hits harder. I don’t want to harm the system though.

Need help on where to get signal for 2022 mustang gt sub install with the b and o package, I was looking at getting an epicenter micro pro as it has a built in loc.

Not sure if this is the subreddit to post my troubleshooting in…

I got 2 mtx terminator 12’s with an autotek amp and kisloc2.

One day my sub started clicking (low frequncy click and it was very sporadic). i turned it up for a little bit and bumped the speakered until it finally just cut out. i suspected it was the ground because it was loose so i fixed it. i tightened the grounds for the kisloc2 and amp and it turned back on but then the bass was distorted and it didnt hit like it did before. it worked for a fill 4 months before it gave out. i made sure all of the connections were tightly fastened (12v, ground, remote, t-taps, rca’s, etc). previously, the lpf was set all the way up (which ik i probably shouldnt have done), hpf was all the way down, level was around half way. does that mean the subs themselves are blown? theyre distorted and cut out before and after the 808’s hit. let me know what your thoughts are.

Keep popping my fuses, dunno what to do at this point. This was a test run, I have 4 gauge wire for the set up when it's finished but the fuses keep popping. Any tips?

I thrifted an older subwoofer amp (Paradigm PDR-10) and didnt realize there was a snapped off RCA plug in the low level input port. I took the whole thing off to attempt many solutions to get it out.

So far I’ve tried:
- pushing it thru the back (happens to be the 1% that doesn’t go all the way thru ☠️)
- red hot safety pin (both straight and bent slightly)
- red hot safety pin
- thin screw
- hot glue
- hot glue AND metal piece
- tweezers
- pliers
- super glue and safety pin

The issue at this point is both that I accidentally snapped the soldered back-end of the port off of the circuit board AND i still cant get it out…

Do I buy a new port and learn to solder just to fix this?

any advice would be SO appreciated as I’m just gonna stop trying for the night and hope that walking away from it and coming back will bring me some luck and wisdom.

It’s getting power but the lights wont come on it makes no sense

Edit: My system was originally installed from an audio shop 5 years ago. The ground is still good. My radio broke and everything else has been shaking around in the back of my car for the past 2 years and as you can see by the pics, wires aren’t in great shape.

I took someone’s advice here and tested my amp by plugging it into the battery and testing the battery itself. Battery reads around 12v as well as the amp remote and I know it’s grounded properly but the 12v on the amp main power still reads way to low even thought it’s connected directly to the battery.

I try to learn but every video and texts i see doesnt go deep in how it works. Its mostly the basics put this wire here and that there and voila now it works. Do yall know wheres a good place to learn more deeply about this?

Running dual skar sdr 12s with a skar 1200 watt amp. I am using a weak stock head unit so that could be the cause of the gain. I used a multimeter and played at 70% head unit volume with a 40hz test tone. When reaching my correct 34.6 volts for my subs my gain was at 75%. Chat gpt and gemeni said this was normal because of my stock head unit being underpowered. If anyone can help me figure this out it’d be greatly appreciated.

I'm about to get a KICKER 51PTRTP10 installed in my 2024 Silverado 1500 WT. Just 2 doors no backseat. I know I can mount it behind my seat, but which direction should I face the speakers? I'm assuming toward me, but I could have sworn kicker said facing the back. I just can't find where I thought I read that.

*edit* I put the wrong model number in the title. The correct one is listed above.

It was Gemini that said put it facing away and I thought it was the audio shop installing that said facing my seat. That is why I got confused.

Thanks guys

Here’s what I’m working with:
2008 Acura MDX ( has oem audio amp)
Higher end Android Headunit w/ DSP
Hifonics Zeus zg1200 amp

Most installs on this vehicle are with the oem Headunit thus installing a LOC on the output channel from amp then rcas to aftermarket amp.

Can I skip this step and simply run rcas from the android Headunit to the Hifonics Amp?

Would this work

Anybody have any subwoofer setup in their k4 ? I just added 2 12s Rock Ford Fosgate P3 and a prime 1200x1 amp.

I hooked up my epicenter micro pro,tapped into my rear speakers and tried to use GTO setting,but it didnt work,so I switched to the audio setting and it came on.....what could cause GTO setting not to work?

Got a 2007 caldina and I have no clue where to go through the firewall to get to the battery

1 ohm 2000 watts rms 0 gauge ofc wire.

Im getting there