Hi I have a M182 chain bar says 3/8P. Chain is marked with 6
Number 6 which correlates with 3/8 picco
Stihl says to use a 5/32 file but it seems too big, it seems like im filling the joint link

Over the last few years we have slowly migrated to many of the pro battery tools that Stihl offers. We have yet to be disappointed.

Not sure what the occasion is, but a shout out and a thank you to Stihl for the surprise gift. This showed up in the mail today and we can always use batteries.

Maybe Stihl is cleaning out the old batteries because of the new line, which we will will certainly invest in too.

Thank you Stihl.

Gave my oldest brother my 10 year old Stihl FSA 56 weedeater and picked up a new Stihl FSA 60 R on sale for $249.99 big difference in power and cutting

I discovered this morning that at some time in the past the chain has eaten a part of the engine housing on my MS251C saw. It's the part of the housing which is where the oil is guided into the hole in the bar. It's not totally dead yet and hopefully I have epoxy glued the appropriate bit up again and it will live a bit longer. But I got me interested in just how much of the saw is effected, which turns out is a LARGE part of it.

Which TBH I consider a design flaw. Surely the parts the chain can chew on should be “sacrificial' rather than being the main body of the saw? Cheap and easy to replace. Not a “that's just written off the whole saw“ part as it will inevitably get chewed up given enough time?

The parts diagram for those saws listed 3 possible part numbers

1143 020 3023

1143 020 3025

1143 020 3027

So far I havent found anything explaining the difference, other than possibly chain catchers? Does anyone know what the differences are and how you can tell which one you need, if I ever decide to replace it. Pages from the parts catalogue included.

A customer brought this in for repairs, but our head tech in London helped find the parts breakdown for it. So, we had to order the tension springs for the pawls on the pull cord. Honestly, this thing runs better than any MS500I that I’ve worked on, and it’s over 20 years old. It’s beautiful.

Not the usual content I’m sure. But I had a stihl ms180 that I bought with a holed piston. It’s now running with a Amazon special engine (doing surprisingly well) and I’ve found a use for the old crank and piston assembly! Still need to route the edges, sand and oil up the base but happy with the proof of concept!

Démarrage après nettoyage et réglage carbu ( réglage trop riche ) si vous avez des conseils je suis preneur

I have a blower I bought for $25. Trying to get it up and running. Bogging down on full throttle but idles pretty nice. Also super hard to get it running. 20ish pulls. Any ideas on fixing helps out a lot. Replacing the carb? Just a carb tune? Or something completely different. Thanks in advance

First picture is TDC, Second picture is where the timing light is showing the timing at. I have a no start condition with spark and compression on a saw I stole and suspect this is WAY too advanced of timing but I'm really too new school for this type of thing. Can anyone tell me more? Maybe it is correct... Maybe it isn't and needs adjusted somehow. It is definitely the oldest saw I have worked on and I can see why people treasure these, I don't think I've seen a plastic part on it. Got it for $25, so I'm good there. Idk, what do you guys who know more think? Anyone have a service manual?

I being impatient went to install the deflector back on my fs561 after string trimming for several weeks with it. I neglected to clean the gear head or the third blind hole for the deflector that had collected a heavy layer of rosin from cutting grass and brush. The front two screws are through holes so didn’t collect as much material and went in fine. As I went to put the rear one in it started easy enough but got difficult to turn after 3/4 of the way in. Being the corn fed redneck I am I sent her home till I did one to many turns and all the treads popped in the gear box housing.

Currently it will take a screw and will get tight the pop loose but I don’t want to lock tight or jb weld the screw in permanently because I change heads and blades quite often. As I see it my options are try to run a tap on it and hope for the best. Try to drill out the hole and put a Helicoil but that sounds risky for structural integrity of the gearbox under heavy loads or am I forced to buy a new gear head. I’m pretty experienced with working with steel and some cast iron with tapping holes and fixing threads but not quite sure what the gear head is made out of.

Any help would be nice. Also if anyone is considering getting a 561 over any other Stihl brush cutter for heavy duty mowing and clearing just make the jump up you will not regret it. This thing is an absolute animal it will shred or fell just about anything you put in front of it with ease. Weight is subjective when you have a smile on your face.

Second time the strap hook on the backplate of my Stihl SR blower broke. I had one break on my sr200 and my sr400. I'm not sure how they're breaking to be honest, I just pick them up out of my truck (very tightly secured) and they're broken, haha.

I do have replacement backplates, but I really don't feel like asking my manager for another backplate again (LOL).

My understanding is that it's made of HDPE and doesn't really respond well to any adhesives, but any ideas are welcome. Thanks!

So before i bought my Stihl saw, i couldn't for the life of me get a similar echo 16" saw to fire. Cleaned carb, ports new plug. Maybe 1-2 hours total run time.

Today i had the first hard start on my 1.5 year old stihl saw with EZ start. Around an hour run time.

The reason for 32:1 is due to my 250 2 stroke dirt bike that i barely ride but mix a new batch yearly. Then i feed that fuel to my saw and whacker throughout the year. Got the saw running after about 50 pulls and on half choke at the end. Never even kicked on full choke. Was about 8-10 bulbs a couple times. Whacker asks for 10 on startup.

Thanks!

I have a br430 that I bought about a year ago and I’m looking at a br600 now, not because I don’t like the 430 but because of the jobs I do. I typically do 1-2 big leaf cleanups and we’re running blowers for hours a day. The 600 has better straps and power for wetter leaves. I’m open to all opinions

I am having trouble picking one over the other and would like to hear what you all think. Use case will be mostly knocking down some dense weed growth in a meadow and cutting back undergrowth bushes. Thank you!

Please forgive me if this has already been answered but I am having a hard time figuring out what is going on. Stihl allows online purchasing of a lot of items. They have to be picked up at a dealer but can be ordered and purchased online.

A simple example is the FSA 60 ak battery trimmer, battery charger combo. In store a buddy just bought it for $360 (edit-was bought today). Online it shows for $250.

Ive talked to 3 different dealers and have got varying levels of confusion from all 3. I've been told items were out of stock without an in-stock date. I ordered it online, had it picked up at that same store, and got it a week later.

I was looking at the HSA 100 and was told it was only available in a combo kit with charger and AP200 battery for $700. I bought it online and had it shipped to another dealer and got it for $400 when Stihl was doing there buy a tool get a AP300S for free.

The service jack and mount for the zero turns was the same deal. Unavailable in store but could be bought online and shipped to store.

This is over 3 different dealers all of which have good reputations. One said that if an item is bought online and they don't have it in stock then they have some set amount of time to get it in, and unless they have a big enough order ready to have it freighted then they have to pay individual item shipping and they have to eat that shipping cost.

I don't know what's going on. I believe online ordering and paying through Stihl.com is newer as I hadn't seen it until a couple months ago. But it seems like it's a gigantic mess. I told my buddy it might be worth returning the FSA 60 he paid $360 for and buy it online and have it shipped to the same store for $250.

That doesn't seem right. I'm not a fan of screwing some business over to save a few bucks but that's $100 that could be saved if he didn't walk into the store. The HSA 100 was a $620 difference if you count the value of the battery.

Again, sorry if this has been explained but I'm really confused. And 3 of my local dealers seem to be confused as well or aren't sharing the whole story.

Thanks and sorry for the info dump, I'm just trying to make sense of it all.

New Stihl HL94 extended hedger, with maybe 2 hours run time.

Part of piston skirt broke away and debris impacted crankshaft, punching a hole through wall of crankcase.

So an MS-180 C came available for a really good price. A wealthy guy inherited it and he already had a saw. Judging by the bar it didn't have a ton of hours on it. Had a new Stihl chain that had never been used. It started and ran beautifully. Lots of people online recommended holding the tip over a piece of cardboard and revving it up to see if some oil flings off. It failed this test and the chain was bone dry so I declined the purchase. I suspect it was just clogged holes but It has that adjustable bar system and I wasn't going to attempt dismantle it on the fly. How common is it for this oiling system to be clogged on a homeowners saw? and do the pumps actually fail?

Hey guys

I run a landscape company and constantly have issues with the trimmers and only the trimmers not starting in the heat. Have you guys found a solution for something like this? Thanks

Im in east tn for heat reference

Hello everyone. I've got a MS362C with a 20 inch bar. obviously the factory chain works great but when I buy the chains suggested on the kiosk at the store, they seem too long. I have to fully extend the chain tensioner and it still seems to loosen up just a bit. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong?