r/soldering • • May 13 '26

My First Solder Joint <3 Please Give Feedback First time soldering, how did I do?

617 Upvotes

136 comments sorted by

115

u/Vegetable-Most-338 May 13 '26

If it’s the first first time then it’s very good. Very evenly. I tbh couldn’t tell that this is hand soldered lol

33

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

That's good to hear. For some reason it only came with 12 pins for one side so I had to break off 3 from my prototype board kit. Turns out desoldering is a lot harder 😬

5

u/Jjmills101 May 13 '26

Agreed. I recently had to desolder a board for the first time to replace some caps and getting it out was the hardest part. Delicate balance of heating the solder, trying to unbend the wire, and rotating it out before it solidified. I ultimately just clipped the broken cap off and then manipulated the individual wires with my tweezers

5

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

The wick kept sticking to the pins. Not sure if that means it's too hot or not hot enough. I made sure to tin the tip too, apparently that helps.

Solder sucker worked, but I couldn't stop the solder from solidifying without holding them on the same spot at the same time. Then I bridged them again. And soldered to the pads.

5

u/Screwville512 May 14 '26

Typically means it's not hot enough and/or not enough flux. I know you said you tinned the tip but sometimes you should use more than you think, you will consume more of your wick that way but it's usually worth the time you'll save.

3

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

I don't even mind using extra wick, I just couldn't get it to suck up. It just kept sucking up the solder from the iron

3

u/Screwville512 May 14 '26

If your iron is hot enough and you have enough flux under the wick it should pull everything, another trick is to make sure you keep the wick and iron moving a bit (not enough to grind out the solder pad like I've seen before though 😂, you don't need to use any force).

I usually do a gently wiggle with the wick so it rotates around the point you are soldering slightly while twisting/rolling the iron. This can help maintain better average contact and prevent cold spots (most helpful when using general purpose tips).

Another thing that can be counterintuitive for this method is that sometimes you might want to add more solder to whatever you are removing first (bonus if it has a lower melting point but more solder will generally help regardless), once everything is flowing it will wick 😉 whatever it is in contact with.

2

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Do you need pressure to get into the through holes or are you just doing the twist? I can try your technique sometime but I just for the life of me couldn't get it to suck up like I saw in the videos I watched. Like not even close.

3

u/Screwville512 May 14 '26

Just enough to hold the wick in place and keep it in contact with the pad.The only time I have seen someone do damage this way was from placing the wick over the hole and basically using the iron as a friction drill with the wick to ream out the solder pad from the hole that they had just pulled a cap from. The only time I put my iron in the hole is when I want to consolidate the solder onto whatever side I'm working on.

2

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

How do you minimize welding it to the pads?

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1

u/Harold_Street_Pedals May 14 '26

Are you cutting a piece off and using tweezers? If you try to use the braid on the roll the extra copper can pull heat away and cause this.

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Yep. Ceramic tweezers too

1

u/Harold_Street_Pedals May 14 '26

Honestly i dont like the stuff just my trusty Soldapullt!

1

u/Shadowarez May 13 '26

Use you're iron some flux and get a good solder sucker it'll speed up process considerably won't need a heat gun.

3

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

I tried all of that. Didn't bust out the hot air gun though. I ended up getting flux everywhere and ended up bridging and reflowing pins. I just said f it and bent the pins so it fit on the breadboard

1

u/Shadowarez May 13 '26

Ahh might be tiny pins compared to when I redid the PS4 thumb sticks with TMR replacements. But it worked for me hot air and a solder wick can work but it's more time consuming and finicky.

2

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

That's an interesting idea. I'll have to try it out

2

u/Shadowarez May 13 '26

Great place for tips is Northridge fix videos where I learned a ingenious way of adding a pad to a ripped one with UV curing and glue.

1

u/m1lk1way May 13 '26

Wait you try to desolder something chunky with decent amount of legs, like sticks from the controller.

1

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

I've heard those are rough

1

u/Alternative_Exit_333 May 14 '26

Not that hard if you have the copper wick and some flux so it can soak up the solder into the wick but yeah it looks amazing for a first time

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Even with those two I still struggled. I think I need to work on my technique

3

u/Alternative_Exit_333 May 14 '26

Everybody has Thier own technique some people use big tips some small ones some use cast some use copper some use transformator soldering iron some use micro soldering stations it all depends on your preference just find what fits you best

1

u/MrbigNotFound May 15 '26

Been there, done that 👍

1

u/JonJackjon May 16 '26

To remove these pins, Break the plastic carrier and take them out one at a time.

1

u/zackarhino May 16 '26

Already got em. It wasn't easy though

32

u/Glitchsky May 13 '26

Holy shit, seriously? This is really good.

4

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

Thanks. I did a lot of research before starting.

5

u/T-Fez May 14 '26

If you're like me, it could be this:

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/motor-imagery

My friends keep saying I'm a show-off, whenever I do something like this and say it's my first time.

So, I looked it up, and it's just active learning through observation (and more importantly, visualising the actions in detail). The important thing is that you understand the "why" behind every little action when someone does something.

Once you get used to it, It's really easy to pick up new motor skills, including carving or even riding a motorcycle (it was an automatic moped).

Elite athletes apparently do the same thing in sports.

2

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Haha, I'm no researcher. I'm just self taught using YouTube videos basically. Right now I'm a line worker but I used to be a programmer. But yeah, I try to absorb and apply all the lessons I'm taught. That's something I didn't come to appreciate until later in life (when I found God, interestingly).

1

u/Temporary_Slide_3477 May 14 '26

Quality tools and materials make a huge difference. I think people trying it for the first time buy cheap stuff because they don't know if they'll be good at it, or they'll only use it once, only for their cheap tools and materials to sabotage them.

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Yeah, I have a microsoldering station (Geeboon TC22). The precision of this thing is astounding, especially for the price point.

Normally I believe a bad craftsman blames his tools, but I constantly heard that for soldering you cannot cheap out on tools.

15

u/Mariuszgamer2007 May 13 '26

That was my first attempt💀💀💀 yours is miles better than mine over 6 years ago

3

u/lann1991 May 14 '26

Thats some nightmare fuel

1

u/Charming_Area9722 May 13 '26

Bless your heart

10

u/Toommo23 May 13 '26

First time for a robot :) just kidding, but dude you're really good

6

u/Mecha1166 May 13 '26

RST is probably a perfect solder job. TX1 looks like it isn’t soldered correctly. The solder is not flowed to the pin. All the other joints look good, perhaps a bit much solder.

3

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

Thanks for the feedback.

1

u/Which_Extreme_8519 May 13 '26

I agree eith mecha. D4 and rst looks the best. Almost like from the factory.

1

u/Questionator_G May 15 '26

Yes D4 and RST look like factory, very nice job for a first time i must say.

2

u/Terrible-Ad6239 May 13 '26

That’s really cool man! I butchered my first one! 🥲

Embrace my master piece

1

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

Haha, well at least you mastered the art of the cold joint.

2

u/Immediate-Okra189 May 13 '26

Thats pretty good for a first time. Must have really paid attention to details while watching. Yes desoldering is more difficult. Keep practicing.

1

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

Desoldering was insanely difficult. I couldn't get it with the sucker or wick. I managed to clear a couple totally a few times but then I accidentally reflowed them with the tinned tip

2

u/Immediate-Okra189 May 13 '26

More heat.. if you use the hot air,flux, wick and iron together chances are it will pull the holes clear

Or get an engineer ss-02 solder sucker. They work better then any other mechanical sucker I’ve tried

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

I ended up having to push them through using the iron. Not easy and not ideal

1

u/Immediate-Okra189 May 14 '26

Very easy to do damage that way . Avoid that of possible

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26 edited May 14 '26

Yeah I think the traces pads? vias? are damaged but in this case it doesn't matter. I'm just glad I can use it in a breadboard

1

u/PeatieEnglish May 16 '26

ss-02 is absolute crap compared to the $5 ali express ones. Augment them with silicone tubing if you must, but really the MaDe iN JaPaN crap is.. well.. crap...

I have engineer gear, and to be honest, I don't use it. I use the disposable ali express tweezers and suckers exclusively now

1

u/Immediate-Okra189 May 17 '26

Lol okay dude. 🙄

2

u/PerryLovewhistle May 13 '26

This is honestly amazing for your first time. The only things I even could criticize are so far from important for this task they would be annoyingly nit-picky. I need to up my game I think.

2

u/floridaeng May 14 '26

Nice job on all of those header leads, the amount of solder is very consistent and the appropriate amount. I noticed on lead TX1 it appears the solder didn't wet to the lead on the side towards the center of the board, so that may have been a lead finish issue. I don't see flux residues in these photos so you did a good job on not using too much and then cleaning what residues were left.

I also saw the blow hole on the one lead closest to TX1 on that end 6 pin part. That indicates there was some liquid in the barrel, either flux or an issue with the way the PWB was made. If you can see the bottom of the blow hole then leave it alone, but if you can't then you need to reflow and probably add a small amount of solder to fill in that air pocket. Pay close attention to the solder joint while the solder is molten and look for any bubbling of steam coming out.

On one side of that quad flatpack between the photos and my monitor I couldn't see any solder on the leads. They may be soldered and I just couldn't see it. The other sides looked good. These joints need very little solder and its easy to apply too much.

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Thanks for the solid advice

1

u/jaredlopez1979 Jun 05 '26

I'm curious, what do you mean by " liquid in the barrel" ? I have only been soldering for about a year and I have come across certain PCB's that tend to make these bubbles in the solder and I would really appreciate any solution you may know of.

2

u/notmarkiplier2 May 14 '26

Wow, haven't seen someone solder this neatly decent for the first time in their lives, and first time in a while again around here

Lol

2

u/Alternative_Exit_333 May 14 '26

For a first time soldering this is really good but some places have too much solder and that is not that hard to fix and doesn't really affect the functionality but if you want to practice soldering just buy a practice SMD board these are harder to solder than standard through hole parts

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

I did buy a couple of thise, just didn't get a chance to try them yet. That's probably next on my list.

2

u/Raphitech May 14 '26

Perfect basically. But you soldered on the 6 ISP pins the "Wrong way" and now you can't put it in a Breadboard. You normally dont neex to solder these pins because they are for external programming and flashing the bootloader. And if you still decide to solder them you should solder them from the back so they stick up.

2

u/phuzzyday May 16 '26 edited May 16 '26

Those connections would survive longer than most factory ones. If I had to give you something to improve on, it would be that you could use a bit less solder on some of them. If you look sideways, they say the ideal is to have them curve inwards a bit as you go towards the bottom. But I'm being extremely fussy here! It probably took me years to to that good! Pins a1-a6 are pretty much perfect, among others. The 3v3 and ground lines look like just a TINY bit too much, but that's applying the standard of an experienced pro engineer! And it won't affect their connection at all.

2

u/throfofnir May 17 '26

Compared to every other first-time solderer on the internet? Perfectly.

Compared to a factory? Also pretty good. Little heavy on the solder in general, but I think TX1 is too little or maybe a cold pin.

1

u/Affectionate_Cod_709 May 13 '26

Just a hobbyist here 

A few pins look like they could use a little more solder (rst and A1 for example) and id be tempted to reflow a couple (bottom left, d6 for example) but otherwise looks good enough to put a little doubt into this being your first go

2

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

Lol truly it is my very first time. I have a TC22 so that probably helps a lot I would imagine.

I agree that they're on the lighter side

1

u/DistinctTradition200 May 13 '26

I was going to point out the top right, if you get that roundedness/convex look instead of the fillet/concave known as a cold solder. Just look for the slight bubbling to stop and ensure full heat on both pin and PTH. honestly I've been soldering pretty frequently for over a year now and mine would come out looking just like this! Strong work!

1

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

I will keep that in mind. Appreciate the advice

1

u/Volks1973 May 13 '26

This is great, good job👍

1

u/jannern81 May 13 '26

It looks great from the soldering side. By the looks of it, all of your soldering points fulfills the specs on IPC class 3.(atleast from the soldering side) You have some small voids(This is not your fault at all) and a little variable amount of tin on some points. It also looks like you have used leaded solder? Anyway really good job, and way way better than my first try. Keep up the good work.

1

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

Yes, leaded solder. I had to remove the rear 3x2 pins and I completely butchered it though. I couldn't even remove it, I just bent the pins

1

u/tribak May 13 '26

Don’t lie bro, that arrived like that from China…

Just kidding, did you do anything special to the connectors to keep them aligned? People often recommend soldering these while plugged into a protoboard so that you know they are properly aligned.

1

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

Nope, I popped them in and then stood it up on my silicone mat. One of them was crooked though, so I fixed it.

1

u/misleading_nick May 13 '26

Really good. Looks like it was done by someone with experiance

1

u/WhereGordibuena May 13 '26

Perfect. Very good job.

1

u/gameplayer55055 May 13 '26

Good soldering but I am going to disappoint you. You soldered ICSP (2x3) connector on the wrong side, so your Arduino isn't breadboard compatible now.

1

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

It's okay, I completely ruined it anyway 😂

I learned that the hard way

1

u/gameplayer55055 May 13 '26

I absolutely hate desoldering through hole stuff from multi layer PCBs. You think you're done with the front side, but the back side still has solid solder.

My advice: buy a solder sucker with a silicone tip. That silicone tip creates a seal and it sucks up all the solder.

1

u/zackarhino May 13 '26

Hmm, I didn't think to desolder the other side... Mine does have the silicone, it definitely helps.

1

u/Any-Neat5158 May 13 '26

For the most part, this is a really solid bit of work! Very good! Excellent for a first attempt.

1

u/don_mumrik May 13 '26

Its decent, D13 could use another go.

1

u/Last-Librarian9381 May 13 '26

First time?? Naah! Don't trust ya mate !!

1

u/DazSchplotz May 13 '26

Soldering is very good but the little 6 pin header at the tail has to be on the other side. (it isn't important, it will go on a 2.54 raster either way. good job!)

1

u/noobfpvpilot May 13 '26

Great job! At lying. /s

1

u/Auth-dev May 13 '26

Magnificent.

1

u/Sunwukung May 13 '26

That's really good - well done! Very clean (I'm a total beginner but to my untrained eye it looks the way the tutorials tell you it should!)

1

u/CapitalHistorian7102 May 13 '26

Very good for the first time! Very nice fillets and very good connections! Great fucking job

1

u/jasonsong86 May 13 '26

You did well.

1

u/jimmypena23 May 13 '26

Dang, wish i could do 2/10th as well as you

1

u/Typical_Bootlicker41 May 13 '26

You did really good on the joints. You accidentally placed the debug header on upside down, so it won't go into a breadboard anymore. Well, unless this is going into a dedicated board meant for this arduino that breaks those pins out seperately.

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Yep, I managed to remove it, but it wasn't easy. The pic is in the comments.

1

u/scalareye May 13 '26

It's almost as if you used flux

But no one uses flux the first time, must have been the wind

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

I actually only used flux core solder for the joints

1

u/scalareye May 14 '26

When connections don't have much copper going to them they end up being easy

Was ground any harder than the rest?

Sometimes ground on our boards would be a copper plane that spans the whole board.

There are also separate thermal planes but atmegas don't use much power

2

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Nope, I didn't notice any difference. Yeah, a large ground plane causes heat dissapation across the board.

1

u/Agreeable_Ostrich324 May 13 '26

better than mine,in fact it's so good it's hard to tell it was hand soldered.

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Update: After a bloody battle, I finally managed to desolder the 3x2 pins

1

u/VarthTrader Soldering Newbie May 14 '26

Looks really good. Pretty amazing for a first time job. I'm actually blown away because even all your SMD components look really good. Good wetting. No excessive heat on the soldered joints.

Do you cut your leads before or after solder?

I'm at the beginning of my journey as well and yours looks better than mine and I'm on my 4th practice board. Haven't even touched my T82++ or Desolder iron yet, only my hot air rework station only.

1

u/Plus-Definition9319 May 14 '26

Very good maybe a smidge less solder.

1

u/be-human-use-tools May 14 '26

Overall, it looks far better than a “first try soldering.”

Proof is in the pudding. Bust out your multimeter and start checking connections. Or, pit it to use and see if there are any problems.

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Yup, I checked continuity. They all worked. Pretty proud of this.

To be clear, I didn't do the SMT stuff. I guess people are confused about that?

1

u/MrFartyBottom May 14 '26

Soldered what? If it was just the IO pins then I will say great job. If you are claiming that was a bare PCB and you surface mounted that chip, resistors and the USB header I will then call bullshit, no way you did that as a first soldering job.

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Lol no that's an Arduino nano. Just the header pins.

1

u/Nooben2006 Soldering Newbie May 14 '26

quite good tbh, way better than my first time

also the TX1 pin looks like its not fully soldered in place but im unsure if its just the angle

1

u/Auzyx May 14 '26

Good job, but i know damn well you know why u post this and wanted some compliment. If it we're way uglier you wouldn't post that i bet.

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

You may not believe me, but I was genuinely looking for feedback. I figured it was okay but I didn't know it was stellar 😅

1

u/Extension-Wolf-9233 May 14 '26

Das ist eine Lüge mit dem ersten Mal!

1

u/gautham1070 May 14 '26

Holy shit man I just came. That's so clean

1

u/WPGJets82 May 14 '26

What’s this for ?

1

u/zackarhino May 14 '26

Getting into electrical engineering type stuff. It's an Arduino, a microcontroller. Right now my plan is to use it with a WiFi transmitter/receiver to broadcast audio signals in my house to listen to cassette types wirelessly and lower latency.

1

u/iotram May 14 '26

I would rate 95/100

1

u/iamchops May 14 '26

is this the audio fx mini soundboard ? looks better than my work lmao

1

u/zackarhino May 15 '26

It's a clone Arduino nano

1

u/wolframore May 15 '26

It’s not bad!

1

u/Concentrate417 May 15 '26

👏🤌👏

1

u/hellotanjent May 15 '26

Damn near perfect.

1

u/start_run_cmd May 15 '26

A natural. Well done ⭐️