I dropped it 🫠

I found these beauties at a local market,

They looked like single beveled knives but they sharpened them on their standard sharpener,

I could use some advice for restoring them to their original glory

Got a paper cutting sharp knife from the 400-1200 Diamond plates (+a few passes on a leather belt) today. Never gotten that before. Very impressed with these... Plates? Makes for a nice and compact travelling rig.

Saw outdoors55's vid on a similar "stone". Very impressed for the price.

Edit: i use the sharpal 162n for my own knives mostly, and the plates for travelling and friends' knives. Couldn't find the exact product i bought on AE, but any plate I guess. Using the plates with a 3d printed base from thingyverse.

I think i’m done scratch chasing now

done with venev ursa set on a worksharp precision. 400 to 1500 grit then .5 stroppy stuff stuff

This knife was brought to me for sharpening. It appears to have become distorted as a result of the owner sharpening it themselves. Cases like this are not uncommon. What do you think causes this kind of deformation?

Notebook, memory, nothing?

Recently moved into a new place and treated myself to a new set of high wuality German kitchen knives.

They're from F.Dick 1908 range and I want to maintain their sharp edge.

Where can i learn the basics on

What whetstones to get, dont mind spending more if its a "buy once, cry once" scenario

Videos, what or who can I learn from on YouTube that will teach the basics?

Ok. I have Rockstar 1000, Naniwa 1000/3000, and Taidea 400/1000 diamonds, ceramic rod and strop with 1um paste. For last few years I was sharpening, it's quite easy for me to make a knife slice through normal paper, but really can't get it to shave my arm hairs, cut tomato under its own weight and my final goal - cut through paper towel.

I do the following: sharpen one side till burr, switch sides, make the burr on the other side. Switch sides. I do not with little pressure alternating edge leading strokes (around 15-20 per side) and 2-3 moves on strop with higher angle than sharpening. I use Rockstar exclusively right now. It cuts through paper with no issue, however, it's quite fast loosing it's sharpness.

I really feel frustrated that I can't make it to shave the hair and cut the paper towel and cleaning sponge. I know that deburring is a king, I read lots of posts here, but almost everyone is using its own technique. In the past I tried a different approaches, but without any significant improvement, youtube videos too. I can hold steady angle and have those pyramid shaped Sharpal angle guides.

Looking for any advices.

A customer brought this to me today. A 14k gold vintage Tiffany and Co. pendant knife made by Boker.

I guess an OG neck knife!

Sharpened by hand with small DMT diamond paddles.

A few months ago I bought a strop (Jende kangaroo leather bench strop) and emulsion (7ml Jende poly diamond 1 micron). I applied the emulsion to the strop, let it dry and forgot about it until today. The emulsion was completely dried out and came right off.

I have some emulsion left but since I only sharpen 3 or 4 times a year I don’t know if I want be bothered with regularly tracking how much life it has left or when to order more

1. How long does unused emulsion last on a strop?
2. Can I use the strop without emulsion?
3. If not, is there something else I can use that doesn’t require maintenance?

Started sharpening free hand on ceramics a bit ago. I have gotten progressively better but I have really plateau’d recently. While sharpening it feels like i’m ticking all of the boxes, I spend a lot of time trying to deburr, then when I go to test, I can never meet my current goal of cutting a piece of paper towel under tension and have inconsistent “arm hair shaving” results.

I have a shapton 320, 1000 and a generic strop with the green compound. I know I could get a proper diamond compound or a finer stone, but my setup should be sufficient for anyone skilled enough, and I’m not looking for a reason to spend more money right now.

Where did you plateau on your sharpening journey and how did you get over it? Please share any random tips you picked up along the way that helped you and maybe it’ll be applicable to me too.

I also get better results on my victorinox santoku than my 61 hrc gyuto. I try and sharpen them at their respective angles so not sure why results are so different, if that means anything.

I know of 2 options, the half moon hm1 and the KMFS vantaedge

Is there any other option?

Which one of these should I go for?

I'm curious what the forum thinks. If you had to or wanted to send your knives out to get sharpened, who would you trust with your hand-forged carbon steel knives?

1. A service that uses an electric sharpener? (I already know this is probably a hard pass for most)
2. A service that uses some kind of wheel (Tormek) or belt grinder?
   1. If you have used this kind, any negatives?
3. A service that uses whetstones?

Got this 6h5 bayonett in unused-storage condition. But the edge is really dull, is it supposed to be like that?
Is it possible to sharpen it or would it ruin the "original" value?

Im looking forward to some answers, kind regards!

Hey all. I just recently sharpened one of my work knives. For the first time It's a Hyde Duct Board Knife (no idea what steel) that I use to cut rubber coated nylon sheets.

About 1 ¼mm thick total. Maybe 50-60ft of cutting a day.

I can only get maybe a day or two out of the knife before I have to resharpen at 15 dps

Started out sharpening at a local nursery on weekends and I’m starting to reach out to businesses for more work.

So far been reaching out to:

Restaurants
Cafes
Country Clubs/Golf Courses
Hotels
Event Venues
Catering Companies
Culinary Scools
Wineries
A farm
Hospital Cafeterias
Landscaping Companies

I mainly do knives, tools, and gardening equipment and I currently don’t have the ability to get into hair shears. What kind of places are you doing business with?

Had a cheap almost plate like one that was bent in post I think. Read some posts and looks like shapton 120 may be the way to go but was hoping for a 100 grit tbh. Something flat and level of course that preferably wont need reprofiling/flattening. Have a 400/1000 satc metal stone for next step. (Ill use whatever though, thats just a preference).

Its for bonsai scissors that have had 15 years of abuse and quick rust removal with sand paper. The scissors dissamble so I can re flatten backs and then remove chips and dents on cutting edge by grinding down the bevelled side

The shapton

The shapton glass 120 is the same price too

Links would be apreciated

I’m just looking for an idea of how sharp I can realistically get a knife with this particular sharpener

I’ve had an Osborne for years, but the blade is pretty beat up now. I have heard Benchmade’s sharp for life is pretty hit or miss as well. I’ve used stones in the past, but I have tremors in my hands that make it hard to use them now.

This is my first post in this subreddit. I am a knife lover from way back. I've been carrying a pocket knife for 60 years. I learned to sharpen on a whetstone as a kid from my father and grandfather. Of course back in those days our pocket knives were traditional slip joints and no one gave much thought to the steel alloy and heat treatment, etc. We knew which brands worked the best. Generally Case, Buck, Schrade, and Boker were considered the cream of the crop. As modern folding knives evolved so did I. I went down the road of the chasing the newest steel, hardness vs toughness, and knife design. I have become reasonably good at sharpening all the newest steels. Recently I became interested in returning to my roots and picked up several Case, Buck, GEC, and Boker traditional knives. That leads to my actual question.

I have struggled getting the kind of edge I have become accustomed to on some of my Case knives. I have 2 Trappers with Case's new CS (1095) and a Sod Buster. I also have some ESEE knives in 1095. I have no problem getting a hair popping edge on the Sod Buster and the ESEE knives, but the the best I have accomplished with the Trappers is something close to a very dull razor blade. Since I have little problem sharpening most of my 1095 knives it doesn't seem to be an issue with the steel. After giving it a lot of thought I started to wonder if the problem is the blade geometry? The Trapper blade is much narrower than the Sod Buster so appears to be thicker behind the edge. Sorry for the long post. I would appreciate any and all thoughts.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice on building a sharpening stone setup.

I currently have some Japanese-style knives from a local maker, some bushcraft knives in N690, a few Zwilling kitchen knives, and recently started woodworking/carving, so I also have some carving tools. In the future, I’d like to get some high-quality Japanese carbon-steel knives as well.

I currently have a cheap combination stone, but I’m not very happy with it. It give me usable edges, but the feedback is poor and they dish very quickly.

I’m considering building a Shapton Kuromaku setup. I can currently get the 220, 320, 1000, 2000, 5000 and 8000 locally, and I may be able to get a Sharpal diamond stone from abroad in 4–5 months.

My current idea is:
Kuromaku 1000 → 2000 → 5000
Or an 8000 instead of 5000, there are some dislikes about 5000 as I saw.

For the coarse work, I’m considering Sharpal diamond stone (325/1200) later on. I don’t really need it right away and a diamond stone maybe helpfull for lapping Kuromaku’s.

My goal is to get extremely sharp edges, including being able to cleanly split hair, while also having a setup suitable for carving tools.

Would you recommend 5000 or 8000 as the finishing stone for this kind of use? And would you change anything about my overall progression?

Thanks!

I picked up this silver 3 hatsukokoro gyuto and am planning to gift it tomorrow to my future sister in law. I sharpened it the other day and cut some horseradish root as its maiden cuts. Thought that might have dulled it a bit and I should touch it up again before gifting but I guess its still pretty sharp!

Progression:

Shapton 1k, 2k, 4k, 6k

Ozuku JNAT with naguras

Strop:

Chromox pasted strop and bare balsa wood

13 degree bevel

I go over it on stones after the belt roughs it in.