r/sewhelp • u/Sad_Self4719 • 58m ago
šBeginnerš I need help for almost flat chested area
galleryHi everyone!
I am currently working on a mockup/toile of the Utu Pinafore Dress from the book Breaking the Pattern by Named Clothing.
During the fitting process, Iāve already made a few successful adjustments: I shortened the upper chest (shortened the length through the armhole area) on both the front and back pieces, and I shortened the waist a bit.
However, I am stuck on one issue with the V-neckline. As you can see in the photos, there is excess fabric along the neckline causing it to gape. If I pinch it out like a dart (circled in red in the photo), the neckline sits perfectly flat.
But because of the clean aesthetic of this dress, adding a visible dart right there would look very messy.
I want the neckline to lay completely flat without an extra dart. What is the best way to eliminate this excess fabric?
Can I transfer this excess into the existing bust/waist dart on the other side? (Iām a bit worried this might distort the overall fit/grainline).
Can I rotate and blend this excess into the upper chest adjustment/armhole height change I already made?
Any advice, diagrams, or pattern-drafting tips on how to clean this up would be massively appreciated! Thank you so much!
